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Get a taste of royal luxury; Vicki Kellaway takes a trip to Portugal's Atlantic coast.


Byline: Vicki Kellaway

THINK of a European playground for the rich and famous.

It's unlikely the twin Portuguese fishing towns of Estoril and Cascais will spring to mind, but with budget flights to Lisbon from John Lennon Noun 1. John Lennon - English rock star and guitarist and songwriter who with Paul McCartney wrote most of the music for the Beatles (1940-1980)
Lennon
 Airport perhaps it's time It's Time was a successful political campaign run by the Australian Labor Party (ALP) under Gough Whitlam at the 1972 election in Australia. Campaigning on the perceived need for change after 23 years of conservative (Liberal Party of Australia) government, Labor put forward a  to reconsider.

You wouldn't be the first holidaymaker to fall for this divine coastline, a 40-minute drive or 20-minute train journey from Portugal's capital.

Locals call it the Coast of Kings and are forever grateful to the Portuguese monarchy for making the place trendy as far back as 1870.

Even our royals responded and Edward VIII Edward VIII, 1894–1972, king of Great Britain and Ireland (1936), known in later years as the duke of Windsor; eldest son of George V. He attended the naval colleges at Osborne and Dartmouth and Magdalen College, Oxford. In 1911 he was made prince of Wales.  followed the rush of money to savour Estoril's salty salt·y  
adj. salt·i·er, salt·i·est
1. Of, containing, or seasoned with salt.

2. Suggestive of the sea or sailing life.

3. Witty; pungent; earthy: salty humor.
 air and sheltered beaches when he abandoned the English throne in 1936.

The glitterati glit·te·ra·ti  
pl.n. Informal
Highly fashionable celebrities; the smart set: "private parties on Park Avenue and Central Park West, where the literati mingled with glitterati" 
 are still there, enjoying the region's luxury hotels and apartments and eight immaculate golf courses.

James Bond creator Ian Fleming's original Casino Royale has fallen into ruins in Estoril, soon to become apartments beside the old British and Nazi headquarters in the former spy capital, which are now grand hotels themselves.

But Europe's largest casino, Casino Estoril Casino Estoril is located in Estoril, near Lisbon, Portugal, that calls itself "the largest casino in Europe".

During World War II, it was reputed to be a gathering spot for espionage agents, dispossessed royals, and wartime adventurers.
, where the spies supposedly shared their secrets over cocktails, remains and is well worth packing your finery to visit.

Even the non-gamblers, those lucky few who can resist a noisy slot machine or a tempting roulette roulette (rlĕt`), game of chance popular in gambling casinos, and in a simplified form elsewhere. In gambling houses the roulette wheel is set in an oblong table.  wheel, will enjoy the three-course meal and showcase of dancers, magicians and gymnasts from across the world.

I stayed at the luxurious suite hotel Viva Marinha, a five-star apartment hotel which has two golf courses, a spa and a swimming pool nestled in acres of greenery.

Even with those "get away from it all" surroundings - a taxi into town was quick and cheap and allowed me to explore the many bars and restaurants in the Bay of Cascais.

That included Beira Mar, or By The Sea, restaurant, where delicious seafood dishes are served metres from Pescadores Beach, where the fisherman bring them home.

You could savour Cascais and Estoril's beaches, shops and sites for your entire stay, but it's best to hire a car for one day at least and pop over the border into Sintra.

The winding coast road makes for a glorious journey past Cabo da Roca Coordinates:

Cabo da Roca (Cape Roca) is a cape that forms the westernmost point of mainland Europe (and of mainland Portugal).
, continental Europe's most Western point, but don't linger long at this breezy and historical spot if you wish to make the most of your trip.

Sintra's romantic Pena Palace will entrance children and adults a like with its coloured turrets Turrets can mean or be confused with:
  • Gun turret, in weapons, a gun mount that swivels, usually mounted on a naval warship, or other weapons platforms like planes, tanks, helicopters, etcetera.
, engravings and furniture which remain almost untouched since the last royals left in 1910.

One beauty of the Coast of Kings is its proximity to Lisbon, and a sensible holiday maker will save at least one day to explore Portugal's vibrant capital.

The Belem cultural quarter is a good place to start, with museums including the Museu dos Coches, which continues the fairytale theme with its plump and elaborately carved royal coaches.

Jeronimos monastery and the Torre de Belem and Padrao dos Descobrimentos monuments are worth visiting too, the latter a fantastic sculpted sculpt  
v. sculpt·ed, sculpt·ing, sculpts

v.tr.
1. To sculpture (an object).

2. To shape, mold, or fashion especially with artistry or precision:
 tribute to Portugal's explorers.

Even with all that culture on display you must leave time for a coffee and a custard tart at the famed Pasteis de Belem.

The cafe sells 45,000 custard tarts a day across Portugal, all from a secret recipe Secret Recipe is a lifestyle café chain and has become a household name following its debut in Malaysia since 1997. Secret Recipe has successfully established its brand name in Malaysia, Singapore, Philippines, Indonesia and Thailand by virtue of its quality cakes, fusion food and  - and with the price a deliberately low85 cents, to avoid alienating al·ien·ate  
tr.v. al·ien·at·ed, al·ien·at·ing, al·ien·ates
1. To cause to become unfriendly or hostile; estrange: alienate a friend; alienate potential supporters by taking extreme positions.
 locals, it's best to avoid the lunchtime rush.

Finally, end your day in Lisbon with a delicious meal on the docks, or Docas, overlooking the April 25 bridge before returning west to Estoril and Cascais.

You can say what you like about royalty, particularly those in exile, when it comes to their love for these quaint twin towns, at least they have taste.

Travel Tips

Vicki Kellaway stayed at the Viva Marinha apartment hotel. Prices start at pounds 280 per night for one person in a studio, with one and two bed rooms also available. Discount prices start at pounds 125 for the same.

A dinner and showat Estoril Casino costs from pounds 44pp. Call 00 35 121 4667 700 or visit www.casino-estoril.pt.

Learn more about Cascais and Estoril's royal influence on a half-day tour from TOW from pounds 43. Call 00 35 121 486 0601 or visit www.tow.pt

Visit www.pasteisdebelem.pt for more on those tasty custard tarts.
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Title Annotation:Features
Publication:Liverpool Echo (Liverpool, England)
Date:Jul 22, 2008
Words:714
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