Garnishes: the final flourish.

Most people can correctly identify a garnish when they see one, precisely because it's there to be seen. It's usually green: the scattering of minced herbs, the sprig of parsley, the tangle of micro greens; or it can be a punctuation mark, the cherry on top as it were, or even a bit of whimsy, say, a cucumber carved into a whale. After serving their initial purpose these garnishes are often pushed aside and ignored.

But what about basil in mayonnaise, tomatoes in a green salad, or sea salt flakes melting away on a croquette? Though intuition falters at the thought of it, they are garnishes all, flavorful and inseparable from the dish.

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General dictionaries and encyclopedias today echo the former understanding of the subject, stating that a culinary garnish is primarily decorative, and may or may not enhance the flavor of the dish. It is an edible embellishment added to a prepared item for overall visual appeal.

In a sense, the decorative aspect of garnishing is a return to a much earlier time in Western dining history when certain dishes were as delightful to behold as to consume. From ancient Rome come numerous accounts of the lavish feasts of emperors and wealthy citizens who were eager to dazzle their guests with outlandish displays of culinary artistry and excess. Their penchant for transforming a food into the appearance of another inspired as much satire as awe. There are tales of cooks fashioning anchovies out of turnips, fish and birds out of cuts of pork, and an entire menu out of zucchini. Some dispensed with the art and served up wealth directly. It was said of the Emperor Elagabalus that he once served "peas with pieces of gold, lentils with onyx, beans with amber and rice with pearls."

Medieval rulers kept the tradition alive in their own way. In the court of Richard II, chefs erected castles out of pastry dough to cleverly conceal the pies beneath; they brought mythological beasts to life by sewing the fore part of one creature to the rear of another. More importantly, they applied color to food to make it more appealing. Parsley juice and saffron were commonly used for green and gold. Red came from sandalwood, purple from turnsole, a Mediterranean plant, and black from boiled blood. "Endoring" was the process of basting meats with a saffron-tinted paste of yolks and flour to give them something of a gilded look. In this way humble pork meatballs became "pomes dorryle," or golden apples. Food was decorated to look like something it was not.

To "flourish" was the closest thing to modern ideas of garnishing. An early blancmange recipe concludes with the direction "flourish it with anise in confit red or white and with almonds fried in oil and serve it forth." The word garnish does not come into English usage until the turn of the fourteenth century, and does not become widely understood in a culinary sense until the end of the seventeenth. It derives from the Old French verb "garnir," meaning to provide, to furnish, or to defend. Garnishing, then, became the term for furnishing a dish with additional items to shore up its appeal.

By the early 20th century, garnishing in classical French cuisine was important enough for Escoffier to devote an entire chapter to the subject, and then some. Explaining by example rather than strict definition, he demonstrates that a garnish can be made from virtually anything edible--vegetable, grain, eggs, olives, fish, shellfish, meat, offal--as long as it is appropriate for the dish. In general it is served with or alongside the dish to enhance the enjoyment of the whole. He also observes that flavoring items may be used as the garnish, such as the pearl onions, mushrooms and salt pork used in beef bourguignonne. In a case like this, the garnishes become so strongly associated with the dish, they end up regarded as ingredients. In other cases, they are the dish itself, as in choucroute garni, sauerkraut garnished with various cured meats. Overall, classical French garnishes are certainly meant to be visible, but the enjoyment seems to derive from the pleasure of seeing what is being offered; it's the anticipation of the taste to come.

Somewhere along the way, garnishing has gotten away from an emphasis on complementing or accompanying, and almost exclusively implies a striking visual component. Many garnishes today are meant to make a dish seem more appealing without adding anything significant to the flavor of the whole. Considering the original sense of the word, they're not garnishes at all, but decorations without any real connection to the dish, like pearls in rice. Because of their visibility, they have influenced the current definition of the idea. But there is yet a type of garnishing in practice that provides another dimension of flavor, scent and texture that is enjoyed first, but not only, by the eyes. It's closer to the classical French interpretation, the tasteful flourish that finishes the dish and becomes so much a part of it, the dish is, to say the least, disappointing without them. It can be as simple as the brightly colored droplets of an infused oil, as subtle as a sprinkling of finishing salt or as bold as gremolata. No mere afterthoughts, they are the garnishes that deserve a little more attention and their own definition in the lexicon.

DECIDEDLY HIS WAY

Tom Valenti grew up in Ithaca, New York, a small town with a culinary scene inversely proportional in size to the vast cultural riches provided by Cornell University and Ithaca College. "There was a fish store," he recalls, "where you walked in and it was just a bank of freezers." Even so, he found a place in the kitchen of one of the area's best chefs, Etienne Merle--"a traditional French, screaming lunatic of a chef"--who took him on as an apprentice right out of high school.

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Valenti discovered that the traditional route of apprenticeship suited him far better than culinary school. "Etienne put into my brain that I had to earn my toque, and when I visited a culinary school ... I saw literally hundreds of students and all you could see was a sea of toques," he explains. "Obviously culinary education is a very, very valuable thing--but at the time, being the little rebel that I was, it struck me as odd." It was enough to keep him learning on the job.

After a stint as a personal chef on a private estate in Westchester, New York, Valenti became a pastry chef at Restaurant Guy Savoy in Greenwich, Connecticut, in 1980. From there he traveled to France to become chef tournant for Savoy's restaurant in Paris. Of his time there he says, "It was a quote-unquote experience I would never trade and I will never forget."

There was yet to be another experience in Paris that would have a more profound effect on his career. It was nothing more than a chance encounter at Charles de Gaulle Airport, where Valenti ran into former Guy Savoy stagiere Daniel Johnnes (the current wine director at Dinex Group) who introduced him to his companions, Alfred Portale and Helen Chardack. Once back in New York, Valenti says, "Al's and my paths kept crossing, so eventually, when he went to The Gotham, he asked me if I wanted to join him there, as his sous chef."

Being Portale's sous chef brought Valenti very close to the spotlight that was finally turned on him when he became the first executive chef at Alison on Dominick, Alison Becker Hurt's much-lauded southern French bistro. Its success was such that Food & Wine magazine named Valenti one of the "Ten Best New Chefs" in 1990. At Alison, he began perfecting the hearty, full-flavored style with which he is associated. "It was fine dining to be sure, but it was decidedly on the more rustic-slash-comfort food side," he notes, adding that Alison led the movement towards a new way of dining. "We really started developing dishes that have become very popular in New York, such as lamb shanks and beef short ribs. That was really where we started fussing with lesser cuts."

The focus on lesser cuts and bigger flavor was inspired by a desire to "tuck into a steaming hunk of love." Valenti took this heartfelt style with him first to Cascabel, then to Butterfield 81 where Ruth Reichl pronounced him a "clairvoyant in the kitchen" for his seemingly supernatural ability to give diners what they want most. Valenti himself regards it as a much more practical matter of common sense. "In this ever-progressive, competitive city of great chefs and great restaurants, you need to recognize what your customers want," he says simply. "You have to be a little bit of a chameleon, recognizing what the area wants, and what they don't want."

Since opening Ouest in 2001, Valenti has successfully met the needs of his Upper West Side clientele by doing "the best food that we can in a decidedly relaxed setting." Even more to the point, he admits, "it's what I want. I have such admiration for the guys who run these four-star temples of gastronomy. My nervous system won't sustain that."

Valenti does, however, have the inner strength for what some might consider an even more challenging proposition. Shortly after September 11th, 2001, Valenti joined in the creation of the Windows of Hope Family Relief Fund, and currently serves as a board member along with Waldy Malouf and David Emil. Since its inception, the fund has raised over $21 million for the families of the World Trade Center victims who worked in the food, beverage and hospitality industries.

Pea Soup with Parmesan Flan and Parmesan Crisp

(Serves 4)

Vino Bianco

Channing Daughters

Long Island, New York 2004

                                                 For the Parmesan crisp:

                                          1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese

                                                           For the flan:

                                                       1 cup heavy cream
                                                                  2 eggs
                                          1 ounce grated Parmesan cheese

                                                       For the pea soup:

                                     1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
                            2 garlic cloves, peeled and coarsely chopped
                                  1/2 onion, peeled and coarsely chopped
                                                    2 cups chicken stock
                                                      8 cups frozen peas
                                               Granulated sugar to taste
                                                           Salt to taste

                                                               To serve:

                                               Crisp, diced smoked bacon
                                                           Blanched peas
                                                  Sauteed chopped onions
                                                              Pea shoots
                                                  Extra virgin olive oil

For the crisp: Preheat oven to 300 degrees. On Silpat[R]-lined baking sheet, sprinkle Parmesan into four 2-inch circles. Bake until browned and crisp, about five minutes. Remove from pan and place on flat surface to cool.

For the flan: Preheat oven to 325 degrees. In bowl, whisk together cream, eggs and Parmesan. Pour into buttered 2-ounce ramekins and place in shallow pan. Add enough hot water to come one-quarter of the way up sides of ramekins. Cover pan with foil. Poke several small holes in foil and bake until firm, about 20 minutes.

For the pea soup: In medium saucepan, heat oil over medium heat and cook garlic and onion until softened. Add stock and peas and bring to boil. Reduce heat and simmer four minutes. Transfer to blender and puree until smooth. Strain through fine-mesh sieve. Season with sugar and salt.

To serve: In center of soup bowl, unmold flan. Add soup to cover halfway Garnish with Parmesan crisp, bacon, blanched peas and pea tendrils. Drizzle with olive oil and serve.

House-Smoked Duck Breast with Crispy Poached Egg and Duck Liver Vinaigrette

(Serves 4)

Riesling Kabinett Herrenberg

Moximin Grunhauser

Mosel-Soar-Ruwer, Germany 2004

For the duck breast:

2 Magret duck breasts, excess fat trimmed
1 quart soy sauce
1/2 cup dark brown sugar, packed
4 shallots, peeled and thinly sliced
2-inch piece ginger, peeled and thinly sliced
1/2 cup kosher salt

For the vinaigrette:

1 1/2 cups olive oil
3 cloves garlic, peeled and thinly sliced
3 ounces duck liver
1/2 cup sherry vinegar
2 tablespoons Dijon mustard
2 anchovy fillels
1 egg yolk
Kosher salt and ground black pepper to taste

For the poached egg:

1 quart canola oil
1 ounce white vinegar
6 eggs
1 cup all-purpose flour
1 cup ground panko breadcrumbs
Salt to taste

To serve:

Baby arugula
Shaved Parmesan cheese
Extra-virgin olive oil

For the duck breast: In bowl, stir together soy sauce, sugar, shallots, ginger and salt. Place duck in shallow dish and cover with soy sauce mixture. Cover and refrigerate 24 hours. Remove duck and pat dry. Transfer to smoker and, using applewood chips, smoke until medium-rare, about three hours. Let duck cool completely, wrap in plastic and refrigerate eight hours. Starting from the underside of duck breast, thinly slice meat and discard fat. Layer slices between sheet of parchment paper and refrigerate until ready to use.

For the vinaigrette: In saute pan, heat two tablespoons oil over medium heat. Add garlic and liver and saute until liver is cooked through. Transfer garlic and liver to food processor fitted with metal blade. Deglaze pan with vinegar and add to food processor along with mustard, anchovy fillets and yolk. Blend until smooth. With motor running, slowly add remaining oil to emulsify. Season with salt and pepper and reserve.

For the poached egg: In deep-fryer or tall-sided pot, heat oil to 375 degrees. Bring small pot of water to boil and add vinegar. Crack four eggs and carefully slide one at a time into water. Poach until yolk is just set. Transfer to ice water bath for one minute then drain on paper towels until completely dry. Lightly beat remaining eggs. Dip poached egg in beaten eggs, dredge in flour and coat with panko bread-crumbs. Fry in oil until golden brown. Drain on paper towels and season with salt.

To serve: Arrange duck breast in circle on plate. Drizzle with vinaigrette and olive oil and top with arugula, egg and cheese.

Chickpea Pancake with Gravlax and Mustard Oil Sauce

(Serves 6)

Vespa Bianco

Bastianich

Friuli, Italy 2003

                                                        For the gravlax:

                                          1 pound salmon fillet, skin-on
                                                      1 tablespoon vodka
                                                     1/4 cup kosher salt
                                          2 tablespoons granulated sugar
                                              1 bay leaf, finely chopped
                                            1 bunch dill, finely chopped
                                     1 shallot, peeled and thinly sliced
                               1 1/2 teaspoons cracked black peppercorns
                                  1 1/2 teaspoons caraway seeds, toasted
                                 1 1/2 teaspoons finely chopped tarragon
                                           2 teaspoons green peppercorns

                                                    For the mustard oil:

                                               2 tablespoons mustard oil
                                          1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
                                   1 tablespoon American sturgeon caviar
                                          1 tablespoon salmon roe caviar
                                   1 1/2 teaspoons finely chopped chives

                                                        For the pancake:

                                                       2 cups canola oil
                                                         1 1/4 cups milk
                                              1 teaspoon unsalted butter
                             1/2 clove garlic, peeled and finely chopped
                                                    1 cup chickpea flour
                                                 1 cup fresh com kernels
                                         1 green onion, coarsely chopped
                            Kosher salt and ground black pepper to taste

                                                               To serve:

                                                           Creme fraiche
                                             Grated hard-boiled egg yolk

For the gravlax: Place salmon skin-side down on plastic wrap and sprinkle with vodka. In bowl, combine salt and sugar and spread evenly over salmon. Top with remaining ingredients and wrap lightly Transfer to sheel pan covered with plastic wrap and place another plastic-wrapped sheet pan on salmon. Place two 1-pound objects on top of pan to press and refrigerate 24 hours Unwrap salmon, rinse off curing mixture and pat dry. Refrigerate until ready to use.

For the mustard oil: In bowl, whisk together mustard oil and olive oil. Gently stir in caviar and chives.

For the pancake: In medium saucepan, heat oil to 350 degrees. In separate saucepan over high heal, combine milk, butter and garlic and bring just to a boil. Reduce heat to simmer and whisk in flour until smooth. Continue stirring constantly with wooden spoon until mixture is thick, about three minutes. Remove from heat, fold in corn and green onions and season with salt and pepper. Transfer mixture to Silpat[R]-lined sheet pan and spread 1/3-inch thick. Using 3-inch round cutter, cut mixture into circles and fry in oil until golden brown, about one minute. Drain on paper towels.

To serve: Place dollop of creme fraiche on pancake. Thinly slice gravlax and arrange atop creme fraiche. Drizzle with mustard oil sauce, garnish with grated yolk and serve.

Prosciutto-Wrapped Cod with Pickled Asparagus and Potato Chips

(Serves 4)

Terre Alte

Livio Felluga

Friuli, Italy 2004

                                                      For the asparagus:

                                                     1 cup white vinegar
                                                             1 cup water
                                           1 tablespoon granulated sugar
                                                       1 tablespoon salt
                                                  1 bunch thin asparagus

                                                   For the potato chips:

                                                      1 quart canola oil
                         2 Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and thinly sliced
                                                           Salt to taste

                                                       For the potatoes:

                1 pound Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and coarsely chopped
                                          1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
                                           2 green onions, thinly sliced
                           Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

For the lemon butter sauce:

3 1/2 ounces butter
1 shallot, peeled and thinly sliced
3 tablespoons heavy cream
1 cup chicken stock
Juice of 1 lemon
Salt to taste

For the cod:

4 5-ounce fillets cod
4 thin slices prosciutto
2 tablespoons canola oil
1/2 ounce butter
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

To serve:

Blanched peas
Sauteed chanterelle mushrooms
Pea shoots
Extra virgin olive oil

For the asparagus: In saucepan, combine vinegar, water, sugar and salt and bring to boil. Place asparagus in container and cover with hot vinegar mixture. Let cool, cover and refrigerate.

For the potato chips: In deep-fryer or tall-sided pot, heat oil to 350 degrees. Add potatoes, stirring to separate. Fry until lightly golden. Drain on paper towels and season with salt.

For the potatoes: Bring small pot of salted water to boil. Add potatoes and cook until tender, Drain. Transfer to bowl, add oil and green onions, and coarsely mash with fork. Season with salt and pepper.

For the lemon butter sauce: In saute pan, heat 1/2 ounce butter over medium heat. Add shallots and cook until softened. Stir in cream and reduce by half. Add stock, bring to boil and reduce by one quarter. Remove from heat. Whisk in remaining butter and lemon juice. Season with salt.

For the cod: Season fillets with salt and pepper. Wrap each with one slice prosciutto. Heat oil and butter in saute pan over high heat. Place fillets in pan and cook to desired doneness, about four minutes per side.

To serve: Place mashed potatoes, peas and mushrooms in shallow bowl and spoon lemon butter sauce around. Arrange cod, asparagus and potato chips atop potatoes. Garnish with pea shoots, drizzle with olive oil and serve.

Pan Roasted Sturgeon with Wild Mushroom Risotto and Garlic Chips

(Serves 4)

Chardonnay "Mon Plaisir"

Peter Michael

Sonoma, California 2003

                                                 For the mushroom broth:

                                                 1 tablespoon canola oil
                                          1 rib celery, coarsely chopped
                                  1/2 onion, peeled and coarsely chopped
                                 1/2 carrot, peeled and coarsely chopped
                                      1 clove garlic, peeled and crushed
                                                           1 sprig thyme
                                                              1 bay leaf
                                            1 teaspoon black peppercorns
                                                  1/4 cup dry white wine
                                                1 teaspoon white vinegar
                                               8 ounces button mushrooms
                                        2 pieces dried porcini mushrooms
                                                      3/4 cup cold water
                    Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

For garlic chips:

3 cloves of garlic, peeled and thinly sliced
1 cup milk
1 cup canola oil
Salt to taste

For the risotto:

2 tablespoons olive oil
3 ounces wild mushrooms, coarsely
chopped
1/2 onion, peeled and finely chopped
1/2 cup Carnaroli rice
2 tablespoons white wine
3 cups hot chicken stock
1 tablespoon pureed roasted garlic
1/2 cup steamed, shelled edamame
1/2 cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

For the sturgeon:

2 tablespoons canola oil
1 ounce butter
4 6-ounce sturgeon fillets
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

For the garnish:

Pea sprouts

For the mushroom broth: In pot, heat oil over medium heat. Add celery, onion and carrot and saute briefly. Stir in garlic, thyme, bay leaf and peppercorns and cook two minutes more. Add wine, vinegar, button mushrooms and porcini mushrooms. Simmer until button mushrooms release their liquid, about eight minutes. Add water, bring to boil and simmer 30 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Strain through fine-mesh sieve, discarding solids, and keep warm.

For the garlic chips: In small saucepan, combine garlic and milk. Bring to boil and simmer until garlic is tender, about seven minutes. Strain through fine-mesh sieve and dry on paper towel. In separate small saucepan, heat oil to 325 degrees. Fry garlic until golden brown. Drain on paper towels and season with salt.

For the risotto: In saute pan, heat one tablespoon oil over high heat. Add mushrooms and saute until browned and tender. Set aside. In saucepan, heat remaining oil over medium heat and cook onions until softened. Stir in rice. Add wine, stirring until wine is absorbed. Add stock 1/2 cup at a time, stirring after each addition until stock is absorbed and rice is tender. Stir in garlic, edamame, cheese and reserved mushrooms. Season with salt and pepper.

To serve: In saute pan, heat canola oil and butter over high heat. Season fillets with salt and pepper. Sear fillets until browned and crisp, about four minutes. Turn and cook to desired doneness. Place risotto in bowls and top with fillet. Garnish with pea sprouts and garlic chips. Ladle broth into bowl and serve.

THE ALCHEMIST

There's no question about it: Dan Silverman knows the secret of turning restaurants into gold. Maybe he divined the skill at Bouley--"the old one, the first one"--where he took a turn at everything from canape station to sous chef. Maybe it came to him at Postrio and Zuni Cafe while waiting for a chance to join the kitchen at Chez Panisse. Or maybe he just has the keen intuition of someone who found his calling.

After graduating from Vassar College in 1984, Silverman gave book publishing a try but found it didn't offer the kind of challenges he could be satisfied with. Instead, it inspired a career change. "I'd always cooked," he recalls, "so I decided to go to school, get a job and see if I could do it, and if I wanted to do it." He attended the French Culinary Institute, graduating in 1988, and went straight to Bouley to begin a relationship that spanned six of the restaurant's nine years.

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Along the way he traveled to France to do short stints with Andre Daguin at Hotel de France and Dominique Bouchet in Bordeaux. He describes the latter experience as especially formative. "It was great because it was old-school French. You got an order for fish, you took the fish out of the walk-in, you scaled, filleted it; you got an order for duck, you took it out of the walk-in, you trussed it, you roasted it ... It was a really wonderful experience. You could literally watch wheat grow in the field across the road."

In 1992, four years into his stint at Bouley, he decided to go to San Francisco on a tip from a friend who assured him a position would soon be opening at Chez Panisse. While he waited, he worked full-time at Postrio and Zuni Cafe, picking up only the occasional shift at Chez Panisse. As the exiting employee repeatedly put off the date of departure, Silverman grew ever more frustrated and disillusioned. Considering that his over-booked work schedule was keeping him from enjoying any of the perks of living in the Bay Area, he finally decided that returning to New York made the most sense.

After almost a year in California, he came back to New York and took a line cook position at Le Bernardin until a place opened once again at Bouley. Silverman became Bouley's sous chef at a time when the restaurant was the hands-down favorite in the city, earning an unprecedented 29 food rating in the Zagat Guide for three years straight.

In 1994, an opportunity arose to become the executive chef at Alison on Dominick, and Silverman accepted. Already enthusiastically embraced by local critics, Alison became a restaurant distinguished by national acclaim under his guidance. In 1996 and '97, Gourmet magazine named it one of New York's Top Tables and in 1997, Silverman himself was named one of Food & Wine's "Top 10 New Chefs." He attributes this success simply to his "willingness to go in there and work really hard, have fun, and try and make nice food." A year later, Silverman left Alison to become the executive chef of Union Square Cafe, which enjoyed a run of six years as the Zagat Guide's "Most Popular Restaurant" in New York City.

Upon reflection, Silverman decides that the development of his style over the years has been more an act of paring down than building up, a process made possible by his good relationships with purveyors. "I get really good products. And it's interesting because the better the products are that I can source, the less you have to do to them, but the more you have to pay attention to them," he says. "If you don't take care of them--if you don't cook them properly, or cut them properly, or store them properly--then it's a big waste. But if you do, then you really don't have to do that much to them. A lot of times for me, it's not how complicated I can make things, it's how simple can I make them."

He has continued to simplify his style in his current position as executive chef of Lever House, which he joined at its opening in August of 2003. Still in possession of his golden touch, he earned the restaurant a Michelin star in 2006 and retained it for 2007, an honor he is happy to accept. "It's a validation," he explains. "It puts me on a level with people around the world who I really respect. That's an important little piece of it for me. A little professional respect, and I'm really proud to be a member of that club."

Big-Eye Tuna with Lemon Oil, Persian Ginger and Red Mustard

(Serves 4)

Zweigell Rose

Brundlmayer

Kamptal, Austria 2005

                                                           For the tuna:

                               12 ounces sushi-grade big-eye tuna fillet

                                                        For the garnish:

                                             Grated dried whole ginger *
                                                   Finely chopped chives
                                                       Micro red mustard
                                                       Lemon Agrumato **
                                                            Fleur de sel

* Available through Suttons Bay Trading Company, [phone] or
www.suttonsbayspices.com
** Specially extra virgin olive oil made by cold-pressing lemons with
olives. Available through Cyber Cucina, [phone] or
www.cybercucina.com.

For the tuna: Thinly slice tuna against the grain and arrange on four plates. Garnish with ginger, chives and mustard, drizzle with oil and season with salt.

Scallop Tartare with Black Truffles

(Serves 4)

Verdejo "Naiades"

Vina Sila

Rueda, Spain 2004

                                                    For the vinaigrette:

                                                      1/4 cup walnut oil
                                             1 tablespoon sherry vinegar

                                                       For the scallops:

                                12 ounces diver scallops, finely chopped
                             1 1/2 ounces black truffles, finely chopped
                              1 tablespoon finely chopped chervil leaves
                                                       Juice of 1/4 lime
                                                   Fleur de sel to taste

                                                        For the garnish:

                                         Finely julienned black truffles
                                                          Chervil sprigs

For the vinaigrette: In bowl, whisk together oil and vinegar and set aside.

For the scallops: In bowl, combine scallops, truffles and chervil. Mix in vinaigrette and lime juice, and season with salt.

To serve: Using three-inch ring mold, arrange scallop mixture on chilled plate. Garnish with truffles and chervil and serve.

Crispy Braised Pork Belly with French Lentils and Aged Balsamic Vinegar

(Serves 4)

Riesling Grand Cru "Schlossberg"

Paul Blanck

Alsace, France 2002

For the pork belly:

24 ounces bone-in, skin-on pork belly
2 sprigs thyme
2 bay leaves
4 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 onion, peeled and coarsely chopped
1 bulb fennel, cored and coarsely chopped
1 carrot, peeled and coarsely chopped
2 cups white wine
2 quarts veal stock
Water as needed
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

For the lentils:

1 1/4 cups French lentils, rinsed
2 1/2 cups water
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 bulb fennel, cored and finely chopped
1 red onion, peeled and finely chopped
2 carrots, peeled and finely chopped
1 clove garlic, peeled and finely chopped
3 tablespoons finely chopped parsley
1/4 cup reserved cooking liquid, from above
Sea sail and freshly ground black pepper to taste

To serve:

1 quart canola oil

For the garnish:

Fleur de sel
Micro red mustard greens
15-year-old balsamic vinegar

For the pork belly: Season belly with salt and pepper and place in dish. Top with thyme, bay leaves and garlic. Cover and refrigerate at least eight hours. Preheat oven to 350 degrees Remove herbs and garlic from belly and reserve. Heat oil in small roasting pan over medium-high heat. Add onion; fennel and carrot and saute until lightly caramelized. Add reserved herbs and garlic and cook three minutes more. Degiaze pan with wine and reduce until liquid is almost completely evaporated. Stir in stock and bring to boil. Place belly in pan, adding water to cover if necessary. Cover with parchment paper and foil and cook in oven until belly is tender and bones are easily removed, about two hours. Let cool in liquid. Remove belly, cover and refrigerate to chill thoroughly. Strain cooking liquid through fine-mesh sieve, discarding solids. Bring liquid to boil and reduce, skimming as needed, until it coats back of wooden sooon. Season with salt and pepper and reserve.

For the lentils: In saucepan, combine lentils and water. Bring to boil, then lower heat to simmer. Cook until lentils are tender, about 30 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. In saute pan, heat oil over medium heat. Add fennel, onion and carrot and cook until tender, about 15 minutes. Stir in garlic and parsley, and add to lentils. Stir in reserved cooking liquid and keep warm.

To serve: In deep-fryer or tall-sided pot, heat oil to 350 degrees. Slice chilled pork belly into four portions and fry in oil until golden brown and crisp, about two minutes. Drain on paper towels. Place lentils on plate and top with belly. Garnish with fleur de sel, red mustard greens and balsamic vinegar and serve.

Black Sea Bass with Vanilla Oil, Chili and Lime

(Serves 4)

Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc

Vieux Lazaret 

Southern Rhone, France 2005

For the vanilla oil:

1/2 Tahitian vanilla bean, split and scraped
2 cups extra virgin olive oil

For the bass:

12 ounces sashimi-grade black sea bass fillet

For the garnish:

Finely chopped chives
Korean sliced dried chilies *
Lime juice
Fleur de sel

* Threadlike, dried hot red chili peppers, also known as sil gochu.
Available through Koamart, www.koamart.com.

For the vanilla oil: In container, combine vanilla and oil. Seal tightly and let infuse 48 hours. (Note: makes more than needed for recipe).

For the bass: Thinly slice bass across the grain and divide among four plates. Sprinkle with chives, chilies and fleur de sel. Drizzle with vanilla oil and lime juice and serve.