GRILL OF YOUR DREAMS ARM YOURSELF TO MAKE THE MOST OF BARBECUE SEASON.

Byline: Natalie Haughton Food Editor

It's time to fire up the barbecue for Memorial Day grilling festivities. You, too, can be a grill guru. Especially with the help of this season's crop of new cookbooks addressing outdoor cooking.

There's a wealth of ideas from every corner of the world - and more than 365 recipes - ranging from starters, to beef, fish, game and poultry to vegetables, sides, salads and desserts - packed into the recently released ``Weber's Big Book of Grilling,'' by Jamie Purviance and Sandra S. McRae (Chronicle Books; $22.95). Designed for those who love the texture and flavor of grilled food, whether novices or accomplished grillers, the 416-page volume is filled with 130 color photographs that make you want to eat the ribs, kabobs, steaks and salads right off the pages. Artichoke-Stuffed Chicken Breasts with melted goat cheese, Red Snapper Fajitas With Black Bean Salsa, Tequila Salmon, N'Awlins Barbecue Shrimp, Gourmet S'Mores or Peaches With Raspberry Sauce sound tempting.

``For us, grilling is much more than a cooking method,'' writes Purviance. ``It's a sport, a hobby, a passion - dare we say a way of life. Remember that attitude is as important to the experience as technique. This is not like platform diving, where the slightest error can make a terrible splash. It's more like surfing or skiing, where you definitely need a certain amount of technique, but there's still a lot of room for individuality.''

Although grilling is casual and fun, there is a science to it, notes Chris Kimball, editor and publisher of Cook's Illustrated magazine, which just came out with ``The Best Recipe: Grilling & Barbecue'' (Boston Common Press; $29.95). The magazine editors lit more than 5,000 fires to find the best way to grill favorite foods. The book features 400 tested recipes along with tips and results of different techniques and variations.

For the best-tasting hamburger results, the editors suggest buying a chuck roast and grinding it yourself in the food processor, then seasoning with salt and pepper before shaping it into patties.

When it comes to barbecue sauces, don't marinate food destined for the grill.

``The food will burn and taste awful,'' write the editors. Brush on a little sauce the last two or three minutes of cooking and again just before serving.

You'll also learn which cut of meat is best for beef kabobs, which commercial sauces rated best in a taste test, the secret to grill-roasted turkey, whether briquettes work better than hardwood charcoal, how to make juicy barbecued chicken, the best way to grill corn, quick tips for easy grilled pizza and much more.

Even beginners can tackle the grill with confidence and expect success with ``How to Grill,'' by Steven Raichlen (Workman Publishing; $19.95 paperback). Unlike Raichlen's previous books, ``The Barbecue! Bible'' and ``Barbecue! Bible Sauces, Rubs and Marinades,'' which are more recipe- and story-oriented, this latest volume addresses the entire grilling process from start to finish with step-by-step instructions. More than 1,000 photographs are included, covering more than 100 techniques and 150 recipe lessons - and several tips are sprinkled in along the way.

Part of grilling is relying on your own senses and judgment about when to turn the meat or add more coals to the fire. Purviance advises investing in a good grill, but notes that the choice of charcoal vs. gas is really a personal and lifestyle choice. While taste tests indicate no significant flavor difference either way, keep in mind that gas grills are initially more expensive but generally cost less to operate in the long run.

Keep in mind when using either gas or charcoal grills that there are two grilling cooking methods: direct and indirect heat. It's important to know which to use for specific foods.

``The difference is simple: Place the food directly over the heat source or arrange the heat source on either side of the food. Using the right method is the shortest route to great results - and the best way to ensure doneness safely,'' says Purviance.

Similar to broiling, the direct method is used for foods that take less than 25 minutes to cook, such as steaks, chops, kabobs, sausages and vegetables. This method is also used to sear meats and create crisp texture and marks where the grate touches the meat.

Many grillers make the mistake of cooking everything directly over the heat, ending up with ribs or chicken that look done on the outside but are uncooked inside.

Similar to roasting, the indirect method is used for foods requiring 25 minutes or more of grilling time or for delicate foods that would be scorched or dried out by direct exposure to heat, such as fish fillets, roasts, ribs, whole chicken, turkey and other large cuts of meat. The food is slowly cooked evenly on all sides and no turning is necessary.

Whatever method you use, follow the most important grilling rule, says Purviance: Keep the lid down and open the grill only to turn foods as indicated in recipes. This reduces the chance of flare-ups and keeps the heat in, reducing the cooking time.

``More poking and grilling won't make it taste better,'' Purviance says. Knowing when to remove meat from the grill is the key to great grilling. While there is little debate about the right doneness temperatures for poultry and pork, it's different for lamb, beef and venison.

``We recommend the USDA temperatures for medium rare for all of our beef, lamb and game meat except burgers. Because ground beef contains so much surface area, where most bacteria take hold, it is very important to cook ground meat to an internal temperature of 160 degrees F (medium).''

For safety's sake and good results, invest in a good meat thermometer. Refer to the handy grilling guides throughout all the books for approximate grilling times and methods for cuts of different meats, fish, poultry, vegetables and fruits.

To get the best results, the Weber book's grilled recipes rely on kosher salt because of its big flakes, resulting in greater surface flavor when the salt melts. Purviance also favors freshly ground black pepper and extra virgin olive oil for best flavor.

In addition, he recommends that the griller's pantry include staples such as ketchup, Worcestershire sauce and a variety of mustards and spices. Other favorites include chili oil, hot chili-garlic sauce, chipotles in adobo sauce, fish sauce and fresh lemon grass.

N'AWLINS BARBECUE SHRIMP

The herbs and spices of this peel-and-eat shrimp taste great on a bed of rice pilaf.

MARINADE:

6 tablespoons unsalted butter

2 teaspoons minced garlic

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh thyme

2 teaspoons paprika 

1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper

1/4 teaspoon turmeric 

SHRIMP:

32 large shrimp (about 1 1/2 pounds), in their shells

To make marinade: In a small saute pan over medium heat, melt butter. Add garlic and cook, stirring occasionally, until soft, 2 to 3 minutes. Remove from heat and add remaining marinade ingredients. Stir and allow to cool to room temperature.

Using a sharp knife, split open back of each shrimp and devein it. Place shrimp in a large, resealable plastic bag and pour in marinade. Press air out of bag and seal tightly. Turn bag to distribute marinade, place in a bowl, and refrigerate 20 to 30 minutes.

Remove shrimp from bag and discard marinade. Grill over direct high heat until shrimp are just opaque in center and firm to touch, 2 to 4 minutes, turning once halfway through grilling time. Remove from grill and serve warm or at room temperature with rice, if desired. Makes 4 servings.

From ``Weber's Big Book of Grilling'' by Jamie Purviance and Sandra S. McRae.

PARADISE GRILLED

Pepper on pineapple? Yes! It adds an exciting burst of flavor to the juicy fruit. The quality/freshness of the pineapple is all-important.GLAZE:

3/4 cup fresh orange juice

1 tablespoon honey

1 tablespoon fresh lime juice

2 teaspoons cornstarch 

PINEAPPLE:

4 slices fresh pineapple, EACH about 1/2-inch thick

1 teaspoon cracked dried green peppercorns OR cracked black peppercorns

4 scoops vanilla ice cream

To make glaze: In a small saucepan combine all glaze ingredients and whisk until smooth. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat and cook until thickened, 1 to 2 minutes. Keep glaze warm or reheat when ready to serve.

Season both sides of pineapple slices with peppercorns. Grill over indirect medium heat until well marked, 6 to 8 minutes, turning once halfway through grilling time. Serve each pineapple slice with a scoop of ice cream and some of glaze drizzled over top. Makes 4 servings.

From ``Weber's Big Book of Grilling'' by Jamie Purviance and Sandra S. McRae.

BEEF SATAY 

MARINADE:

1 green onion, finely chopped

1/3 cup ketchup

1/4 cup light soy sauce

3 tablespoons dark brown sugar

3 tablespoons fresh lime juice

1 tablespoon peanut oil

1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger

1 teaspoon minced garlic

1/4 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes

BEEF:

1 1/2 pounds beef top round OR beef tenderloin

1/4 cup creamy peanut butter

To make marinade: In a small bowl whisk together all marinade ingredients with 1/4 cup water.

Cut beef into 3/4-inch cubes. Place cubes in a large, resealable plastic bag and pour in marinade. Press air out of bag and seal tightly. Turn bag to distribute marinade, place in a bowl, and refrigerate 1 to 2 hours.

Remove meat from bag, reserving marinade. Thread meat onto skewers, leaving space between cubes. Allow to stand at room temperature 20 to 30 minutes before grilling.

Grill beef cubes over direct high heat until medium rare, 3 to 5 minutes, turning once halfway through grilling time.

Pour reserved marinade into a small saucepan, bring to a boil over high heat, and boil 2 to 3 minutes. Add peanut butter, return to a boil, and whisk until sauce thickens. Serve warm with beef skewers. Makes 4 servings.

From ``Weber's Big Book of Grilling'' by Jamie Purviance and Sandra S. McRae.

PANTRY PORK CHOPS

MARINADE:

1/4 cup plus 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

3 tablespoons soy sauce

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

1/2 teaspoon light brown sugar

1/4 teaspoon chopped fresh rosemary

1/4 teaspoon kosher salt

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

CHOPS:

4 pork rib chops, EACH about 1 1/4 inches thick

To make marinade: In a medium bowl whisk together all marinade ingredients.

Place chops in a large, resealable plastic bag and pour in marinade. Press air out of bag and seal tightly. Turn bag to distribute marinade, place in a bowl, and refrigerate 20 to 30 minutes.

Remove chops from bag and discard marinade. Allow to stand at room temperature 20 to 30 minutes before grilling.

Sear chops over direct high heat 6 minutes, turning once halfway through searing time. Continue grilling over indirect medium heat until juices run clear, 6 to 8 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Serve warm. Makes 4 servings.

From ``Weber's Big Book of Grilling'' by Jamie Purviance and Sandra S. McRae.

KANSAS CITY-STYLE SPARERIBS 

RUB:

2 tablespoons Kosher salt

2 tablespoons mild OR hot Hungarian paprika

1 1/2 tablespoons ground cumin 

1 tablespoons dried oregano 

2 teaspoons onion powder

1 teaspoon garlic powder

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1/2 teaspoon ground allspice 

1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

RIBS:

2 to 3 slabs meaty pork spareribs, 6 to 7 pounds, trimmed of excess fat

SAUCE:

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1/2 cup finely chopped celery

3 tablespoons finely chopped yellow onion

1 cup ketchup

2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

2 tablespoons granulated sugar

2 tablespoons cider vinegar

1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce

1 teaspoon dry mustard

Freshly ground black pepper

To make rub: In a small bowl combine all rub ingredients and mix well.

Coat ribs with rub and place in a large, resealable plastic bag. Press air out of bag and seal tightly, place in a bowl, and refrigerate 2 to 8 hours.

To make sauce: In a medium saucepan over low heat, melt butter and saute celery and onion until tender, about 10 minutes. Add remaining sauce ingredients, including pepper to taste, and bring to a boil. Reduce heat, cover and simmer 15 minutes. Set aside. Pour some of sauce in a small bowl to use for basting ribs.

Allow ribs to stand at room temperature 20 to 30 minutes before grilling. Grill, rib side down, over indirect medium heat until meat is very tender and has pulled back from ends of bones, 1 1/2 to 2 hours.

During last 20 minutes of grilling time, baste frequently with small bowl of sauce.

Remove from grill and allow to rest 5 to 10 minutes before slicing into individual ribs. Reheat remaining sauce and serve on side with ribs. Makes 6 servings.

From ``Weber's Big Book of Grilling'' by Jamie Purviance and Sandra s. McRae.

CHICKEN BREASTS WITH TAPENADE 

You'll want to earmark this homemade tapenade recipe. It not only works wonders on the chicken - you'll want to make some up to spread on crusty bread next time you're in the snacking mood.

TAPENADE:

3/4 cup pitted kalamata olives

2 anchovy fillets

2 tablespoons coarsely chopped shallots

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

1 tablespoon drained capers 

1 teaspoon minced garlic

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

MARINADE:

1/4 cup dry white wine

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

CHICKEN:

4 chicken breast halves (with bone and skin), about 8 ounces EACH

To make tapenade: In a food processor combine all tapenade ingredients and process to make a spreadable pasta. Place 1/4 cup tapenade in a medium bowl (for marinade) and reserve remaining tapenade.

To make marinade: Add wine and olive oil to tapenade reserved for marinade. Whisk to combine.

Rinse chicken breasts under cold water and pat dry with paper towels. Place in a large, resealable plastic bag and pour in marinade. Press air out of bag and seal tightly. Turn bag to distribute marinade, place in a bowl, and refrigerate 4 to 6 hours, turning occasionally.

Remove breasts from bag and discard marinade. Sear breasts, skin side down, over direct medium heat 4 minutes, turning once halfway through searing time.

Continue grilling over indirect medium heat until juices run clear and meat is no longer pink at bone, 20 to 30 minutes more. Serve with reserved tapenade on the side. Makes 4 servings.

From ``Weber's Big Book of Grilling'' by Jamie Purviance and Sandra S. McRae.

SPICY MAPLE BAKED BEANS

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

1 medium yellow onion, finely chopped

3/4 pound ham steak, trimmed and finely diced

1 tablespoon minced garlic

3/4 cup maple syrup

2 tablespoons tomato paste

1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce

1 tablespoon chili powder

1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper

3 (15-ounce) cans pork and beans, drained

1 tablespoon yellow mustard

Kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

In a fireproof Dutch oven or heavy saucepan over medium-low heat, warm vegetable oil and cook onion, stirring occasionally, until soft, 8 to 10 minutes. Add ham and garlic and cook 2 minutes more, stirring occasionally. Add maple syrup, tomato paste, Worcestershire sauce, chili powder, cayenne and pork and beans. Bring to a boil over high heat.

Remove from stove and place on grill over indirect medium heat. Cook, uncovered, about 45 minutes, stirring once or twice. Just before serving, add mustard and season with salt and pepper. Serve warm. Makes 8 servings.

From ``Weber's Big Book of Grilling'' by Jamie Purviance and Sandra S. McRae.

ITALIAN GARLIC BREAD BURGERS

1 (11.75-ounce) package frozen mozzarella and garlic cheese bread

1 1/2 pounds lean ground beef

Salt and pepper

4 tomato slices

12 large fresh basil leaves

Heat bread according to package directions for grilling; watch so that bread does not scorch on bottom.

Meanwhile lightly shape ground beef into 4 (3/4-inch thick) patties. Place patties on grid over medium, ash-covered coals. Grill, uncovered, 13 to 15 minutes to medium (160 degrees F) doneness, until not pink in center and juices show no pink color, turning occasionally.

Cut bread crosswise into four ``buns.'' Season burgers with salt and pepper, as desired. Place burgers in buns; top with tomato and basil. Makes 4 servings.

NOTE: If mozzarella and garlic cheese bread is not available, substitute regular garlic bread; 2 minutes before burgers are done, top each with a mozzarella cheese slice.

BEER-CAN CHICKEN

1 whole chicken (4 to 5 pounds)

3 tablespoons tomato basil garlic seasoning blend (such as Mrs. Dash)

1 to 2 teaspoons olive oil

1 (16-ounce) can your favorite beer

Remove giblets, fat, etc., from inside of chicken. Rinse chicken with water and pat dry with paper towels. Sprinkle 1 tablespoon seasoning inside body cavity. Rub outside of chicken with light layer of olive oil, then rub seasoning all over outside of chicken. Open can of beer and pour out half.

Holding chicken upright, with the opening of body cavity down, set chicken down onto half-full beer can. Place over indirect heat on barbecue grill. To help support the body on top of the can, place the legs off to the side to form a ``tripod.''

Close barbecue lid and roast approximately 1 1/2 hours or until meat is tender and reaches 180 degrees F in thickest part.

Remove bird from grill using tongs. Be sure to have a platter nearby and be careful not to burn yourself with hot beer. Let stand 5 minutes before carving. Discard beer can. Makes 4 to 5 servings.

Recipe from Bob Blumer, The Surreal Gourmet.

GRILLED QUESADILLAS

8 (10-inch) flour tortillas

6 ounces Jack OR Cheddar cheese, thinly sliced

3 to 4 plum tomatoes, thinly sliced

3 to 4 fresh OR pickled green and/OR red jalapeno peppers, thinly sliced

4 green onions, trimmed and sliced

1/2 cup fresh cilantro leaves

3 tablespoons melted butter

Place tortillas on a work surface. Arrange a few slices of cheese, tomato and jalapeno on half of each tortilla. Top with some green onions and cilantro. Fold tortillas in half. Quesadillas can be prepared up to this stage up to several hours ahead. Wrap quesadillas tightly in plastic and refrigerate until ready to grill.

Set up grill for three-zone direct grilling and preheat hot zone to medium-high.

When ready to cook, place quesadillas on hot grate and grill until tortillas are golden brown and cheese is slightly melted, 1 to 2 minutes per side. Brush outside of each quesadilla with melted butter as it grills. Be prepared to move quesadillas to a cooler part of the grill if they start to burn. Serve at once either whole or cut into wedges. Makes 8 appetizer or 4 main dish servings.

From ``How to Grill'' by Steven Raichlen, Workman publishing.

CAPTION(S):

5 photos

Photo:

(1 -- cover -- color) Be a grilling guru

Fire up the barbecue this holiday weekend, and go beyond the basic burger

(2 -- 5 -- color) For Memorial Day feasting, pick and choose from creations like N'awlins Barbecue Shrimp, far left, Pantry Pork Chops, above, Kansas City-Style Spareribs, left, and Italian Garlic Bread Burgers, below

Shrimp, pork chops and spareribs photos from From ``Weber's Big Book of Grilling,'' Chronicle Books