GRIDDLE RIDDLE NIX THE MIX, AND DON'T BE AFRAID TO INNNOVATE.

Byline: Natalie Haughton Food Editor

Who can resist digging into a piping hot stack of griddle cakes or waffles slathered with butter and maple syrup or piled with fresh berries or fruits?

For many, pancakes or waffles stir warm childhood memories. In some homes, Dad was the designated flapjack or waffle chef - and in addition he often lent a hand at school or community pancake breakfast fund-raisers.

When I was growing up, the pancake detail fell to Dad - and the recipe of choice was one my brothers requested from a chef on the Lurline, a Matson cruise ship, during a vacation sail to Hawaii. I've made the recipe several times since those days - but during their youth, my children were partial to the Baked German Pancake, also known as a Dutch Baby. Not really considered a pancake by some, it's a fast-fix mixture of eggs, flour, milk and melted butter that puffs up dramatically and turns golden in a skillet or pie pan in a hot oven. Filled with fresh berries or sliced fruits and sprinkled with powdered sugar, it's delicious.

Without a doubt, the best-tasting pancake and waffle recipes are stirred up at home - without any mixes.

``Pancakes and waffles are special and surprisingly easy to make,'' notes Dorie Greenspan, author of ``Waffles From Morning to Midnight'' and ``Pancakes From Morning to Midnight'' (the latter now out of print). ``They take less time to whip up yourself than to shop for a mix.''

While researching her books, Greenspan was amazed to find many memories and family traditions associated with pancakes and waffles.

``I wonder why pancakes and waffles aren't served at home more often,'' remarks Marion Cunningham in her tome ``The Breakfast Book,'' adding, ``they certainly are never as good anywhere else.

``It's so drab to buy a frozen waffle and put it in the toaster, compared to the satisfaction you can get from lifting your own homemade waffles out of a steaming waffle iron.''

``Both pancakes and waffles are real success builders - any kind of cook or baker can succeed with them,'' adds Greenspan from her home in New York.

Making either is not an art but rather a series of foolproof steps. Recipes for both are very forgiving, she notes.

The basic formulas are simply mixtures of flour, milk, eggs, leavening, butter or vegetable oil and sometimes a little sugar.

``Pancake batter and waffle batter differ only in that waffle batter is usually thinner,'' writes Cunningham. ``Add a little more liquid to pancake batter and it will cook up as a good, self-respecting waffle.''

When mixing pancake or waffle batters, combine the dry and liquid ingredients separately first, then stir together with a whisk or wooden spoon until blended just prior to cooking.

To avoid developing gluten and ending up with tough pancakes or waffles, don't overmix, emphasizes Greenspan. A few lumps in the batter are OK.

To vary and enrich batters, sometimes sour cream, cottage cheese, buttermilk or yogurt or combinations thereof are used instead of milk. Embellish batters and change the flavor with add-ins such as chopped nuts, chocolate chips, crisp crumbled cooked bacon, cut-up dried fruits, granola, spices (try ground cinnamon and nutmeg), coconut, herbs, fresh berries, finely chopped apples, shredded carrots or zucchini and much more.

When it comes to toppings, think of waffles and pancakes like bread or toast, suggests Greenspan. Creative possibilities beyond butter and maple syrup are many. Pretty much anything goes - including smoked salmon and cream cheese, yogurt, cottage cheese, syrups (maple, assorted fruits), honey, egg salad, chopped fresh herbs, apple salad, ice cream, whipped cream, salsas, etc.

Think of your favorite flavors and play around with them, advises Greenspan, who favors hickory-flavored bacon and maple waffles, crispy cornmeal waffles and oatmeal-raisin pancakes.

Both pancakes and waffles are versatile - and selections range from sweet to savory. You can eat them for breakfast, brunch or even supper.

BANANA SOUR CREAM PANCAKES

1/2 cups all-purpose flour

3 tablespoons sugar

2 teaspoons baking powder

1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt 

1/2 cup sour cream

3/4 cup plus 1 tablespoon milk

2 extra-large eggs

1 teaspoon vanilla

1 teaspoon grated lemon peel

Unsalted butter

2 ripe bananas, diced, plus extra sliced bananas for serving

Pure maple syrup

In a medium bowl, sift together flour, sugar, baking powder and salt. Whisk together sour cream, milk, eggs, vanilla and lemon peel. Add wet ingredients to dry ones, mixing only until combined.

Melt 1 tablespoon butter in a large skillet over medium-low heat until it bubbles. Ladle pancake batter (using a 1/4-cup measure) into pan. Distribute a rounded tablespoon of diced bananas on each pancake. Cook 2 to 3 minutes, until bubbles appear on top and the underside is nicely browned. Flip pancakes and then cook another minute, until browned. Wipe out pan with a paper towel, add more butter to pan and continue cooking pancakes until all batter is used. Serve with sliced bananas, butter and maple syrup. Makes 12 pancakes.

NOTE: Keep pancakes warm in preheated 200-degree oven 15 to 20 minutes, if necessary.

From ``Ina Garten Barefoot Contessa Family Style: Easy Ideas and Recipes That Make Everyone Feel Like Family.''

SOUR CREAM WAFFLES

2 cups all-purpose flour

2 tablespoons sugar

1 tablespoon baking powder

1/2 teaspoon salt

3 eggs, separated

1 3/4 cups dairy sour cream

5 tablespoons butter, melted

In a mixing bowl, stir together flour, sugar, baking powder and salt. Separately, beat egg yolks with sour cream and melted butter. In another bowl, beat whites until stiff peaks form. Stir sour cream mixture into flour mixture just until ingredients are moistened, then stir in egg whites. < Spoon onto a hot, prepared waffle iron, close lid and bake until golden brown. Serve topped with a dollop of sour cream and fresh fruit, hot applesauce, or with butter and maple or fruit syrup. Makes 4 servings.

FLUFFY BLUEBERRY PANCAKES

1/2 cups part-skim ricotta cheese OR drained small-curd cottage cheese

1/4 cup butter, melted

4 egg yolks

1/2 cup flour

1/4 cup sugar

2 teaspoons grated lemon peel

8 egg whites

2 cups fresh blueberries

Blueberry Ginger Sauce

In a medium bowl, combine ricotta, butter and egg yolks until blended. In a small bowl, stir together flour, sugar and lemon peel. Stir dry ingredients into ricotta mixture. In a medium bowl, beat egg whites until they form soft peaks. Fold egg whites and then blueberries into batter.

Over medium heat, form cakes by spooning 1/4 cup batter per pancake onto a hot, lightly greased griddle or skillet. Cook cakes, turning once, until golden brown, about 4 minutes. Serve with Blueberry Ginger Sauce. Makes 6 servings (24 pancakes total).

BLUEBERRY GINGER SAUCE: In a large saucepan, combine 2 cups fresh blueberries, 1/4 cup sugar, 1 tablespoon cornstarch and 1 tablespoon finely chopped crystalized ginger OR 1/2 teaspoon dried ground ginger; stir in 1/3 cup water. Over medium-high heat, bring to a boil; cook and stir until sauce thickens, about 1 minute.

LURLINE PANCAKES

1 cup sifted flour

2 teaspoons baking powder

1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon salt

2 teaspoons sugar

1 egg

3/4 cup milk

2 tablespoons butter, melted OR vegetable oil

Sift (or mix) together flour, baking powder, salt and sugar. Beat egg until light, then beat in milk and butter. Add liquid ingredients to dry ingredients all at once; mix with a whisk until blended; don't overmix.

Bake on a greased hot griddle over medium heat until golden, turning only once. Serve immediately. Makes 7 (4-inch) pancakes.

Shared by Natalie Haughton.

LEMON PANCAKES

3 eggs, separated

1/4 cup all-purpose flour

3/4 cup cottage cheese

1/4 cup (1/2 stick) butter, melted

2 tablespoons sugar

1/4 teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon grated lemon peel

Separate eggs and beat egg whites until they hold stiff peaks. In another bowl, stir together egg yolks, flour, cottage cheese, butter, sugar, salt and lemon peel until well mixed.

With a large spoon or a spatula, fold egg whites into yolk mixture. Gently stir until there are no yellow or white streaks.

Heat skillet or griddle over medium heat. Grease lightly and spoon out about 3 large tablespoons batter for each pancake. Cook slowly for about 1 1/2 minutes, then turn pancake over and cook about 30 seconds. Keep the pancakes warm in a 250-degree F oven until ready to serve. Serve with fresh raspberries, fresh fruits or raspberry syrup. Makes 12 (3-inch) pancakes.

From ``The Breakfast Book,'' by Marion Cunningham.

PLAIN-AND-EASY BREAKFAST QUICKIES

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 cup all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon baking powder

Pinch salt

1 1/2 tablespoons sugar

1 cup milk

1 large egg

Melted butter, maple syrup, jam OR fruit puree for topping

Preheat your waffle iron. If you want to hold the finished waffles until serving time, preheat your oven to 200 degrees F.

Melt butter; reserve. In a large bowl, whisk together flour, baking powder, salt and sugar. In another bowl, whisk together milk and egg to blend thoroughly. Pour liquid ingredients over dry ingredients and mix with whisk, stopping when ingredients are just combined. Stir in melted butter.

Lightly butter or spray grids of your iron if needed. Brush or spray grids again only if subsequent waffles stick.

Spoon out 1/2 cup batter (or the amount recommended by your waffler's manufacturer) onto hot iron. Using a metal spatula or wooden spoon, smooth batter to within 1/4-inch of edge. Close lid and bake until browned and crisp. Serve waffles immediately or keep in a single layer on a rack in preheated oven while you make the rest of the batch. Serve with melted butter or maple syrup, slices of fresh fruit, mixed berries or a few pieces of thick-cut bacon. Makes about 4 (6 1/2-inch) round waffles.

From ``Waffles From Morning to Midnight,'' by Dorie Greenspan.

BRIDGE CREEK HEAVENLY HOTS

4 eggs

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon baking soda 

1/4 cup cake flour

2 cups sour cream

3 tablespoons sugar

Put eggs in a mixing bowl and stir until well blended. Add salt, baking soda, flour, sour cream and sugar and mix well. All of this can be done in a blender if desired.

Heat a griddle or skillet until it hot, film with grease and drop small spoonfuls of batter onto the griddle - just enough to spread to an approximate 2 1/2-inch round. When a few bubbles appear on top of pancakes, turn over and cook briefly. Makes 50 to 60 dollar-size pancakes.

From ``The Breakfast Book,'' by Marion Cunningham.

BAKED GERMAN PANCAKE

2 eggs

1/2 cup milk

1/2 cup all-purpose flour

2 tablespoons butter, melted

Fresh berries OR fruits

Powdered sugar

Butter a 10-inch skillet with ovenproof handles or a 10-inch pie pan. Whisk together eggs and milk until well blended. Add flour and whisk until thoroughly blended. Whisk in butter until blended and smooth.

Pour batter into pan. Bake in preheated 400-degree oven 20 minutes or until puffed and golden brown. Fill with fresh berries or sliced or cut-up fresh fruits, sprinkle with powdered sugar and serve immediately. Makes 1 baked pancake.

Shared by Natalie Haughton.

Secrets to great pancakes and waffles

Here are a few tips for pancake and waffle success shared by cookbook author Dorie Greenspan and others.

--Before you cook the first batch of either pancakes or waffles, spray the griddle or waffle iron grid with nonstick vegetable spray and then heat until hot. Test by adding a few drops of water, which should dance and evaporate quickly when the pan is ready.

--Cook pancakes over medium heat until bubbles appear on the surface and pop, then flip with a spatula and cook until golden on the other side. Keep in mind the second side always cooks in less time and will not be as brown, says Greenspan. With waffles, cook until you can lift the lid with no resistance, not until the steam stops escaping, as some waffle directions specify.

--One side always looks better than the other, so serve that side up. Usually the best-looking side is the one that hits the griddle first.

--If you're cooking a quantity, overlap on a platter, cover loosely with foil and keep warm in a preheated 200- to 250-degree oven up to 15 minutes for pancakes (after that they get soggy) and 20 to 30 minutes for waffles.

--If you end up with extra, freeze for a weekday breakfast (with waxed paper in between). Reheat a few minutes in a toaster oven, conventional oven or microwave oven (watch carefully; end result won't be crisp).

--Waffle irons come in various price ranges, sizes and patterns. For best results, opt for one with a nonstick surface, which is easier to cook with and to clean. We recently spotted round waffle irons as well as squares, rectangles, hearts, Mickey Mouse shape and a new one that prepares three round mini waffles at once.

--Although low-sided skillets can be used for cooking pancakes, nonstick griddles (electric, if desired) yield the best results. They are available in all sizes, shapes and price ranges and are worth the investment if you'll be cooking pancakes often.

- Natalie Haughton

CAPTION(S):

3 photos, box

Photo:

(1 -- cover -- color) flippin' amazing

Great pancakes and waffles from scratch

(2 -- 3 -- color) From ``Ina Garten Barefoot Contessa Family Style,'' Clarkson Potter

Box:

Secrets to great pancakes and waffles (see text)