GREAT PLATES WITH YOUR KONA.

Byline: - Eric Noland

KAINALIU, Hawaii -- In Kona coffee country, the overcast sky often sets in by midday, afternoon showers are commonplace between May and October, and the coastline is several miles away. All of this spells a-n-a-t-h-e-m-a for many of Hawaii's visitors, who favor abundant sun and ocean frontage.

As such, you won't find elegant resort restaurants and celebrity chefs high up on the western slopes of Mauna Loa. But there are several bistro nuggets to choose from on an excursion through the coffee belt. They'll assure you homey atmosphere and simple, tasty fare.

Some of the better finds:

Keei Cafe: This is a refreshing antidote for travelers put off by the prices at the resorts or the mediocrity of restaurants at the water's edge (Huggo's, this means you).

Most entrees at the Keei Cafe are at or under $20, and we found them superb on two visits. The nightly fresh catch -- ahi, in our case -- is served either with a Thai curry sauce or with caramelized onions and a lemon caper butter sauce. Some premium California wines were priced so low that they were barely above the retail rate.

Open only for dinner; no credit cards. 79-7511 Mamalahoa Highway, Kainaliu. Reservations recommended: [phone].

Coffee Shack: This casual little spot in Captain Cook has the best restaurant view in coffee country -- no contest. It's open for breakfast and lunch, and particular care is given to the brewing of local coffee.

At lunchtime, check to see if a grilled fish sandwich is on the specials menu. It was ono when we stopped in, and although this type of fish can dry out quickly on the grill if the chef is inattentive, ours was perfectly prepared.

83-5799 Mamalahoa Highway. [phone].

Aloha Angel Cafe: Breakfast is a delight at this restaurant housed in a 1932 movie theater. The omelets and scrambles are hearty, the pastries -- homemade cornbread, a scone of the day -- are freshly baked, and the tables string out along an open-air side patio. The cafe serves up a delicious grilled fish sandwich at lunch, and offers a number of comfort-food items at dinner.

79-7384 Mamalahoa Highway, Kainaliu. [phone].

Holuakoa Cafe: Gourmet coffee drinks and pastries are served at breakfast, quiches and sandwiches at lunch in this locals' hangout that sits among the art galleries of Holualoa. We stopped in for both breakfast and lunch, and found it a laid-back alternative to hectic Kailua-Kona.

76-5901 Mamalahoa Highway, Holualoa. [phone].

Teshima's: There's nothing gourmet about this Japanese restaurant in Kealakekua (for that, head to Kenichi Pacific in Keauhou), but it does a nice job on such basics as tempura shrimp, sukiyaki and miso soup.

Cash-only business. 79-7251 Mamalahoa Highway. [phone].

Nasturium Cafe: The menu here leans to organics and vegetarian dishes, with lunchtime wraps that might contain grilled eggplant and hummus. Carnivores aren't neglected, though -- there are a couple of robust burgers on the menu.

79-7491 Mamalahoa Highway, Kealakekua. [phone].