GRADE IT ON A CURVE THE FOCUS ISN'T NECESSARILY ON FOOD AT HOOTERS IN BURBANK.Byline: Larry Lipson Restaurant Critic BEING SERIOUS about Hooters This article is about the two restaurant chains collectively using the shared Hooters brand. For other uses, see Hooters (disambiguation). Hooters is the trade name of two privately held American restaurant chains: Hooters of America, Inc based in Atlanta, Georgia, and just doesn't make sense. It's all about having fun, certainly not about great cooking. The new Hooters in Burbank, the first one in the San Fernando Valley San Fernando Valley Valley, southern California, U.S. Northwest of central Los Angeles, the valley is bounded by the San Gabriel, Santa Susana, and Santa Monica mountains and the Simi Hills. , admits that it serves food and drink, but obviously doesn't take itself seriously. Its menu tells the story of the founding of the national chain in Clearwater, Fla., by half a dozen men now known as the ``Hooters Six.'' They, the menu tells us, ``were promptly arrested for impersonating restauranteurs (sic).'' Hooters' famous servers, curvy young women attired in hot orange short shorts and tight T-shirts, suggest a modern interpretation of the old Playboy bunnies. And with its Hooters chicken wings and beer emphasis, one could describe these sports bars as a sort of blue-collar Playboy Club without any dues. The servers do some nonserious entertaining. En masse they'll climb up on stools and do an enthusiastic, hip-grinding rendition of ``YMCA'' with quite a few screechy screech n. 1. A high-pitched, strident cry. 2. A sound suggestive of this cry: the screech of train brakes. v. screeched, screech·ing, screech·es v. , off-key notes. But nobody expects any choral expertise anyway, and appreciative patrons politely applaud, whistle and whoop whoop (hldbomacp) the sonorous and convulsive inhalation of whooping cough. whoop n. The paroxysmal gasp characteristic of whooping cough. . Servers are very friendly and even sit at your table when taking the order. And some even add bonus entertainment. One attractive, blond server here was noticed on two occasions doing her ``act'' for specific tables, carefully pouring beer into individual glasses from a pitcher while seductively twirling Twirling is any of several artforms, hobbies, or sport and recreational activities accomplished by spinning or rotating the twirled object either for exercise, or in a rhythmic, or otherwise artful manner. a hula hoop. Ours seemed to be the only table in the place where customers were actually drinking wine one evening. But Hooters does keep a bottle or two of Dom Perignon handy, because it offers the famed bubbly with 20 wings for $149.99. As for how often it's ordered, our waitress said she'd yet to see it happen. So what about the food? Well, semi-seriously, once past Hooters' ``fabled'' chicken wings (10 pieces for $6.99, 20 for $13.99, 50 for $28.99) and a respectable burger ($6.99) there's not much positive to say. The kitchen here - sometimes pretty slow at putting out the food - cooks up a hefty bowl of thick, somewhat floury clam chowder chowder, stew of fish or shellfish with potatoes, onions, and pork (usually salt pork), thickened with crumbled hard bread. The name chowder seems to have originated from the French word chaudière ($3.99) and a passable pass·a·ble adj. 1. That can be passed, traversed, or crossed; navigable: a passable road. 2. Acceptable for general circulation: passable currency. 3. bowl of chili with beans ($3.99). Both the rather gummy gummy an old sheep that has lost all of its incisor teeth. , flavorless Philly cheese steak ($7.99) and half a dozen listless (programming) listless - In functional programming, a property of a function which allows it to be combined with other functions in a way that eliminates intermediate data structures, especially lists. mozzarella moz·za·rel·la n. A mild white Italian cheese that has a rubbery texture and is often eaten melted, as on pizza. [Italian, diminutive of mozza, a cut, mozzarella, from mozzare, cheese sticks ($5.99) received thumbs-down ratings, although the onion rings ($3.99) weren't considered too bad. Hooters' version of a Cobb salad ($7.99) might make originator Bob Cobb turn over in his grave, yet conversely, a steak quesadilla que·sa·dil·la n. A flour tortilla folded in half around a savory filling, as of cheese or beans, then fried or toasted. [American Spanish, from Spanish, diminutive of quesada, offering ($7.99) one hot afternoon (paired with a $5.25 pint of dark Newcastle tap beer) actually hit the spot. But with the baseball season culminating, football games under way and basketball upcoming, the new Burbank Hooters should draw very well in downtown Burbank as a sports tavern with oomph. Oomph, you might notice, has two ``o''s in it. Just like Hooters. Larry Lipson, (818) 713-3668 larry.lipson(at)dailynews.com HOOTERS Food: One and one half stars Service: Three stars Wine: Two stars Where: 600 N. First St., Burbank. (Also in Hollywood, Pasadena, Santa Monica, Long Beach and elsewhere.) Hours: Open for lunch, dinner and snacks from 11 a.m. to midnight Monday through Thursday, from 11 a.m. to 1 a.m. Friday and Saturday, from 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Sunday. (Open at 10 a.m. Sunday during football season beginning Sept. 12.) Recommended items: Chicken wings, burgers, steak and cheese quesadilla. How much: Most items under $10. Shareable platters of seafood, wings et al. from $10.99 to $28.99. Wings and Dom Perignon $149.99. Beer and wine. Major credit cards. Reservations: Not taken. First come, first served. Information: (818) 848-9464. CAPTION(S): 2 photos Photo: (1 -- 2) While the ``fabled'' chicken wings at Hooters in Burbank live up to their billing, above, the cheese sticks, right, are better left alone. Joe Binoya/Special to the Daily News |
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