GRACIOUS GRILL; SALT CREEK'S HEFTY PORK CHOPS, MARTINIS MAKE BIG IMPRESSION.

Byline: Larry Lipson Restaurant Critic

In the vogue of those currently popular chain beef, ribs and martini emporiums, the new Salt Creek Grille in Valencia is similarly spacious and gracious.

As one of the main culinary draws in the busy Valencia Town Center, this third location (others in Dana Point and New Jersey, and coming to Huntington Beach next) concentrates on straightforward American grill fare. The setting is in a large, woody environment described by the owners as a place of ``casual sophistication.''

This means you'll find a rolled linen napkin with knife, fork and spoon inside, and that's it, folks, as your basic table setting; no tablecloths, no wine glasses, no candles.

I suppose this translates into the casual part.

The sophistication comes via a comprehensive, carefully chosen, mostly Californian, vintage-dated wine list of around 100 labels that includes 29 chardonnays and 16 cabernet sauvignons.

And there are much nicer wine glasses here than you'd expect. Also eight half-bottles are thoughtfully carried.

But the enthusiastic, very helpful young waiter wearing his ``uniform'' of blue denim shirt and silk tie hasn't, I'm afraid, been schooled enough in wine-opening rituals. Here he is, cupping his hand under the top of the glass, then lifting it up, pouring the wine ``beer style'' instead of leaving the glass on the table when pouring.

Incidentally, the ``proper'' way is also the healthier way, because it doesn't allow the server to handle the portion of the glass that comes in contact with the diner's mouth.

So much for sophistication.

As for the martinis, they are big, really big, baby.

Each oversize, full 6-ounce, traditionally conical glass packs a wallop at $6.50 each, whatever the combination of spirits chosen, and with or without olives and/or onions.

And the bigness here at Salt Creek continues with what is possibly the best pork chop experienced this year.

The mighty, weighty (1 pound), cured, seasoned, center-cut, mesquite-grilled signature item ($16.95) produces bite after bite of moist, white, meaty pleasure.

This hefty king of chops is so good - invariably pork chops are overcooked and dry - that the garlic mashed potatoes that accompany it one night pale in comparison, tasting rather gluey.

But unquestionable kudos are in order for the house appetizer portion of steamed clams ($10.95) that come forth in a delicious white wine, garlic, lemon and butter broth that's oh-so bread-dippable.

They arrive cooked perfectly, weighing 1 pound in the diminutive Manila Bay size, and may - believe me - number as many as 30 or more.

And there's more good stuff from the ocean. The kitchen caters to sashimi fanciers, who will undoubtedly appreciate Salt Creek's seared rare ahi tuna starter dish ($9.95). It's presented handsomely with a bountiful serving for the price, and delivered with the necessary pickled ginger, wasabi paste and soy dipping sauce.

Add two more impressive seafood dishes: one a melty, well-executed roasted filet of New Zealand sea bass ($16.95) draped with shallots and floated in a champagne-butter-lemon liquid; the other a gratifying tossing of shrimp, scallops, artichokes, shiitake mushrooms, spinach, sun-dried tomatoes, garlic, basil and white wine with linguine noodles.

There are more positives.

Should you need an hors d'oeuvre plate to nibble from between sips of a strong and sizable martini, try the house artichoke, cheese and spinach dip ($6.95), here served warm and comforting with a heap of variously hued tortilla chips.

But remembering that beef (ribs, steaks, burgers et al.) is fairly important here, Salt Creek's steaks cannot be dismissed.

The New York ($19.95), a 21-day, dry-aged Angus slab, should satisfy most steak hounds, though the pile of ``Parmesan creamed'' spinach with it seems messy and tasteless.

A chunky ``baseball cut'' top sirloin ($18.95) gets a flavor boost from a Worcestershire and garlic sauce, providing a viable alternative for the regular steak eater.

But neither steak is, in my estimation, nearly as sensational as Salt Creek's signature pork chop.

It could, with a touch of promotion, become as synonymous with this Valencia as the orange is to the city that bears its name.

THE FACTS

The restaurant: Salt Creek Grille.

Where: 24415 Town Center Drive, Valencia.

When: Open for lunch from 11:30 a.m. to 4 p.m. daily, for dinner from 4 to 10 p.m. nightly, to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday.

Recommended items: Steamed clams, soup of the day, seared rare ahi tuna appetizer, artichoke and spinach dip, house special salad, cured double-thick pork chop, roasted New Zealand sea bass, baseball cut top sirloin steak, New York steak, linguine with shrimp and scallops, cinnamon baked apple, almond basket florentine.

Children's menu: Five items (cheeseburger, grilled cheese sandwich, choice of pizza, chicken strips, spaghetti) with ice cream at $4.95 each.

How much: Full bar. All major credit cards except Discover.

Wine list: The corkage fee is zero, encouraging diners to bring their own. Wine commitment is displayed in a list of more than 100 bottlings, mostly Californian with reasonable markups and prices from $16 and up with 11 ticketed at $20 or less.

Reservations: Taken for parties of eight or more. Call [phone].

Our rating: Three stars for food; Two and one half stars for service; Three stars for wine.

CAPTION(S):

2 Photos

Photo: (1) Chef Kevin Schott, left, and managing partner Greg Amsler confer over the mesquite grill.

(2) The fish entrees include a 9-ounce Alaskan king salmon filet with a lemon dill hollandaise sauce, served with vegetables.

Hans Gutknecht/Staff Photographer