GOOD TASTES.

NEW: Reynolds recently introduced the first nonstick aluminum foil - Reynolds Wrap Release Non-Stick Aluminum Foil. One side of the foil is coated with a special food-safe, nonstick surface. We tried it and found it terrific. Even the stickiest foods such as melted cheese, caramel cookies, crispy-coated chicken and the like won't stick. It's also great for lining baking pans when you're baking brownies, cookies, meats, lasagnes, etc., and wrapping up items for freezing (use in between individual portions of foods like burger patties and you won't have to pry them apart). The wrap is available in 35-square-foot rolls at $2.49 each. For free recipe leaflets using Reynolds products, call [phone] or visit the Reynolds Kitchen on the Web at www.reynoldskitchens.com.

- Natalie Haughton

FREEBIE LEAFLET

If you're looking for new sandwich ideas to brown bag or for casual get-togethers, you'll find some in a small leaflet, ``From All Over the World: Luscious, Low Fat Sandwiches With Jarlsberg Lite.'' They range from Zesty Italian to Spanish Pockets and Russian Peasant creations, all made with reduced-fat cheese. Jarlsberg Lite has 70 calories and 3.5 grams of fat per ounce compared to its regular counterpart with 100 calories and 8 grams of fat. If you're watching calories, give the light Norwegian cheese with its mild nutty flavor a try. I use it often and have found it to be one of the better reduced-fat cheeses. For a free copy of the brochure, send a self-addressed, stamped envelope to The Burrell Group, 12 W. 55th Street, Suite 4A, New York, NY 10019.

- N.H.

DINING OUT

With all of these serious (and expensive) restaurants opening lately (Bastide, Sona, Avenue et al.), it's gratifying to see a new casual cafe and wine bar like A.O.C. capturing its share of attention.

A.O.C., which stands for Appellation d'Origine Controlee, the French legal designation telling us exactly where a wine or food comes from, is the brainchild of the successful Lucques co-owner duo of chef Suzanne Goin and maitre d'/manager Caroline Stein.

The two saw the potential of the former L.A. Trattoria space and in its reincarnation as A.O.C. gave it a single-page menu of cheese platters, charcuterie dishes, fish and meat plates at moderate tariff without the usual appetizer or entree headings.

Lots of range in prices make it easy to nibble and snack or splurge and gorge. Cheeses, for example, mainly listed as goat, sheep, cow and blue, run from $5 for one cheese to $20 for five. Charcuterie plates of various hams and sausages are priced from $8 to $16, salads are $8 each, fish dishes run from $8 to $12, and meat items are ticketed from $11 to $13. Goin's fare may be a simple plate of Spanish serrano ham ($9) or a foie gras terrine with sweet and sour prunes ($16). She also makes an octopus salad ($8) and braised pork ($12) which she garnishes with a mustard gremolata.

Six desserts, including croquembouche with lemon cream and bittersweet chocolate cake with mascarpone, are $7 each. Wines are by the glass, carafe and bottle. Corkage is basically discouraged by a $25 fee per bottle.

A.O.C., 8022 W. 3rd St., Los Angeles, is open evenings only from 5:30 p.m., serving until 11 p.m. Monday through Thursday, until midnight Friday and Saturday and 10 p.m. Sunday. Information: [phone].

- Larry Lipson

CAPTION(S):

2 photos

Photo:

(1) no caption (Reynolds Wrap Release Non-Stick Aluminum Foil)

(2) no caption (Leaflet: ``From All Over the World: Luscious, Low Fat Sandwiches With Jarlsberg Lite'')