GOOD TASTES.

COOKBOOK: ``Cooking USA: 50 Favorite Recipes From Across America,'' by Georgia Orcutt and John Margolies (Chronicle Books; $14.95), is a small, colorful and fun book that takes you on a tasting tour of this country. It offers a signature dish from each state, stirring up nostalgia as well as delicious-sounding fare.

There's Louisiana Chicken Gumbo, Maryland Crab Cakes, New York Cheesecake, Chicago Pizza, California Guacamole and much more. Sprinkled throughout are facts and trivia (i.e. Vermont is the largest maple syrup producer in the U.S.; in the late 1800s, Elberta peaches put Georgia on the map).

- Natalie Haughton

FREEBIE LEAFLET: Before you know it, fresh corn season will be here. So you're ready with some interesting recipes this year, the Fresh Supersweet Corn Council is offering a leaflet, ``America's Cookin': Regional Recipes With the Great Taste of Fresh Supersweet Corn.'' In addition to recipes for main dishes and sides, it's filled with nutritional info along with cooking methods and buying and storing tips. For a free copy, send a stamped, self-addressed, business-size envelope to: Fresh Supersweet Corn Leaflet, c/o Lewis & Neale Inc., 35 E. 21st St., New York, NY 10010.

-N.H.

DINING OUT

Florida restaurant chef/owner and cookbook author Norman Van Aken (owner of Norman's in Coral Gables and Norman's at the Ritz-Carlton Orlando) has moved west and opened Norman's restaurant in Los Angeles. Located at the Sunset Millennium Plaza, the restaurant is large, chic, handsome and comfortable with a warm-toned interior (persimmon, straw, copper, mango are some of the colors used) designed by Michael Guthrie & Co., a San Francisco architectural firm. There are lots of big windows, many looking out onto the Sunset Strip. To showcase Van Aken's passion for cooking, diners can view the chefs and display kitchen placed in the center of the restaurant through a glass enclosure.

Van Aken melds the exotic ingredients and rich cultural heritages of Latin America, the Caribbean, the Southern U.S. and touches of Asia in his cooking, which he refers to as New World cuisine. His most recent cookbook, released last year, is ``New World Kitchen.''

Among his innovative first plate and salad menu offerings on a recent night were Creamy Cracked Turks and Caicos Islands Conch Chowder with Saffron, Toasted Coconut, Oranges and a Cloud ($13), Heirloom Tomato Salad Tartare with a Yogurt-Goat Cheese Ice Cream in a Savory Herbed Cone ($12.50) and My Down Island French Toast with Curacao Scented Foie Gras, Griddled Brioche, Passion Fruit Caramel and Gingery Candied Lime Zest ($18.50).

Main plates ($29 to $39) range from snapper to catfish, bay scallops and black cod to roasted pork, lamb chops and more. Particularly delicious was the Roasted Tenderloin of Beef au Poivre with a Tropical Tuber Torta, Chanterelles and an Ancho Pomegranate Reduction ($37).

The dessert collection includes a West Indian Pumpkin, Milk Chocolate and Caramel Timbale, Chocolate-Ancho Espuma, Dulce de Leche Ice Cream ($12), a Tahitian Vanilla Bean Creme Brulee With Kumquat Peel and Cinnamon Biscotti ($10), assorted exotic-flavored ice creams, sorbets and spice creams ($8) and much more.

Many of Van Aken's creations sound tempting and very appealing. We found the plate presentations beautiful - like works of art. There are lots of layers of flavors in each dish, making for intriguing dining.

Norman's, open for dinner 6:30 to 10 p.m. Monday through Thursday, until 10:30 p.m. Friday and Saturday, is at 8570 Sunset Blvd., Los Angeles. Reservations: [phone]. The restaurant also offers private kitchen dining for 12. Norman's plans to offer lunch in about a month (there's outdoor seating).

-N.H.

CAPTION(S):

2 photos

Photo:

(1) no caption (book: ``Cooking USA: 50 Favorite Recipes From Across America'')

(2) no caption (leaflet: ``America's Cookin''')