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GOOD TASTES.


COOKBOOK: ``Cooking USA: 50 Favorite Recipes From Across America,'' by Georgia Orcutt and John Margolies (Chronicle Books; $14.95), is a small, colorful and fun book that takes you on a tasting tour of this country. It offers a signature dish from each state, stirring up nostalgia as well as delicious-sounding fare.

There's Louisiana Chicken Gumbo, Maryland Crab Cakes, New York Cheesecake, Chicago Pizza, California Guacamole and much more. Sprinkled throughout are facts and trivia (i.e. Vermont is the largest maple syrup producer in the U.S.; in the late 1800s, Elberta peaches put Georgia on the map).

- Natalie Haughton

FREEBIE LEAFLET: Before you know it, fresh corn season will be here. So you're ready with some interesting recipes this year, the Fresh Supersweet Corn Council is offering a leaflet, ``America's Cookin': Regional Recipes With the Great Taste of Fresh Supersweet Corn.'' In addition to recipes for main dishes and sides, it's filled with nutritional info along with cooking methods and buying and storing tips. For a free copy, send a stamped, self-addressed, business-size envelope to: Fresh Supersweet Corn Leaflet, c/o Lewis & Neale Inc., 35 E. 21st St., New York, NY 10010.

-N.H.

DINING OUT

Florida restaurant chef/owner and cookbook author Norman Van Aken (owner of Norman's in Coral Gables and Norman's at the Ritz-Carlton Orlando) has moved west and opened Norman's restaurant in Los Angeles. Located at the Sunset Millennium Plaza, the restaurant is large, chic, handsome and comfortable with a warm-toned interior (persimmon persimmon: see ebony.
persimmon

Either of two trees of the genus Diospyros in the ebony family, and their globular, edible fruits. The native American persimmon (D.
, straw, copper, mango are some of the colors used) designed by Michael Guthrie & Co., a San Francisco architectural firm. There are lots of big windows, many looking out onto the Sunset Strip. To showcase Van Aken's passion for cooking, diners can view the chefs and display kitchen placed in the center of the restaurant through a glass enclosure.

Van Aken melds the exotic ingredients and rich cultural heritages of Latin America, the Caribbean, the Southern U.S. and touches of Asia in his cooking, which he refers to as New World cuisine. His most recent cookbook, released last year, is ``New World Kitchen.''

Among his innovative first plate and salad menu offerings on a recent night were Creamy Cracked Turks and Caicos Islands Turks and Caicos Islands (kī`kōs), dependency of Great Britain (2005 est. pop. 20,600), 166 sq mi (430 sq km), West Indies. There are more than 30 cays and islands, of which only six are inhabited.  Conch Chowder with Saffron, Toasted Coconut, Oranges and a Cloud ($13), Heirloom Tomato Salad Tartare
:For the popular sauce, please see tartar sauce.
Tartare is a preparation of finely chopped raw meat or fish optionally with seasonings and sauces.

Examples are
  • Steak tartare,
  • Venison tartare,
  • Salmon tartare,
  • Tuna tartare.
 with a Yogurt-Goat Cheese Ice Cream in a Savory Herbed herbed  
adj.
Flavored with herbs: herbed vinaigrette. 
 Cone ($12.50) and My Down Island French Toast with Curacao Scented Foie Gras, Griddled Brioche, Passion Fruit Caramel and Gingery Candied Lime Zest ($18.50).

Main plates ($29 to $39) range from snapper to catfish, bay scallops and black cod to roasted pork, lamb chops and more. Particularly delicious was the Roasted Tenderloin of Beef au Poivre with a Tropical Tuber tuber, enlarged tip of a rhizome (underground stem) that stores food. Although much modified in structure, the tuber contains all the usual stem parts—bark, wood, pith, nodes, and internodes.  Torta, Chanterelles and an Ancho an·cho  
n. pl. an·chos
A dried poblano pepper.



[American Spanish (chile) ancho, wide (chili), from Spanish, from Old Spanish, from Latin amplus; see ample.]
 Pomegranate pomegranate (pŏm`grănĭt, pŏm`ə–), handsome deciduous and somewhat thorny large shrub or small tree (Punica granatum  Reduction ($37).

The dessert collection includes a West Indian Pumpkin, Milk Chocolate and Caramel Timbale tim·bale  
n.
1. A custardlike dish of cheese, chicken, fish, or vegetables baked in a drum-shaped pastry mold.

2. The pastry mold in which this food is baked.
, Chocolate-Ancho Espuma, Dulce de Leche Dulce de leche in Spanish, dolç de llet in Catalan, or doce de leite in Portuguese ("milk candy"), is a milk-based syrup.

Found as both a sauce and a caramel-like candy, it is popular in Argentina.
 Ice Cream ($12), a Tahitian Vanilla Bean Creme Brulee With Kumquat kumquat (kŭm`kwŏt), ornamental shrub of the genus Fortunella of the family Rutaceae (rue family), closely related to the orange and other citrus fruits.  Peel and Cinnamon Biscotti Biscotti (plural of Italian biscotto, roughly meaning "twice baked") are crisp Italian cookies often containing nuts or flavored with anise. Traditionally, biscotti are made by baking cookie dough in two long slabs, cutting these into slices, and reheating them to dry  ($10), assorted exotic-flavored ice creams, sorbets and spice creams ($8) and much more.

Many of Van Aken's creations sound tempting and very appealing. We found the plate presentations beautiful - like works of art. There are lots of layers of flavors in each dish, making for intriguing dining.

Norman's, open for dinner 6:30 to 10 p.m. Monday through Thursday, until 10:30 p.m. Friday and Saturday, is at 8570 Sunset Blvd., Los Angeles. Reservations: (310) 657-2400. The restaurant also offers private kitchen dining for 12. Norman's plans to offer lunch in about a month (there's outdoor seating).

-N.H.

CAPTION(S):

2 photos

Photo:

(1) no caption (book: ``Cooking USA: 50 Favorite Recipes From Across America'')

(2) no caption (leaflet: ``America's Cookin''')
COPYRIGHT 2004 Daily News
No portion of this article can be reproduced without the express written permission from the copyright holder.
Copyright 2004, Gale Group. All rights reserved. Gale Group is a Thomson Corporation Company.

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Publication:Daily News (Los Angeles, CA)
Date:Apr 14, 2004
Words:624
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