GOOD TASTES.

SHEDDING LIGHT ON DARK CHOCOLATE: In a tasting of nine dark chocolates - which includes chocolates labeled semisweet, bittersweet, mildly sweet or dark bitter - by a panel of 20 as reported in the March/April issue of Cook's Illustrated, two widely available, inexpensive brands beat out the pricier competition. The three top finishers were Ghirardelli, Callebaut and Hershey's. The clear winner was Ghirardelli Bittersweet Chocolate (with 44 percent sugar) which came in ahead of expensive gourmet brands such as Valrhona and El Rey. Ghirardelli was considered the most balanced - neither too bitter nor too sweet. A premium 4-ounce baking bar retails for about $2.29.

Tasters also liked the Belgian Callebaut Dark Bittersweet Chocolate, 835, with 44 percent sugar ($42.95 for 11 pounds or $6 per pound in large plastic-wrapped chunks simply labeled Callebaut Bittersweet Chocolate at some markets) and Hershey's Special Dark ($1.59 for a 7-ounce bar) which has 49 percent sugar and was the sweetest sample.

The chocolates were tasted raw, in chocolate sauce and in flourless chocolate cake. Samples were also tried in different orders. Another surprising finding - tasters favored the sweeter brands over the more bitter-tasting ones (which had more complex flavor profiles).

Bottom line: You don't have to shell out a lot of money for a winning brand. Taste for yourself - and see if you agree.

- Natalie Haughton

NAPA VALLEY WINE AUCTION: The 24th annual Napa Valley Wine Auction will be held at Meadowood Napa Valley, June 3-6. Festivities will include the traditional Barrel Tasting of some of Napa Valley's finest works in progress, the barrel Lot Auction, a Marketplace Tasting, along with privately hosted winery events with star chefs, music and entertainment, a Vintner's Gala Bubble Ball, a live wine auction, Pride of Napa Valley Feast and an al fresco dinner. The complete auction package is $2,500 per couple with a limited number of day and separate event passes available. For more information or to request an invitation package, visit the auction section of the Web site www.napavintners.com.

- N.H.

DINING OUT

At Celestino Drago's newest venture, Enoteca Drago in Beverly Hills, breakfast is now being served from 7 a.m. with omelets and egg dishes featuring burrata, mascarpone, ricotta and fontina cheeses, and even a pizza topped with scrambled eggs, ham, cheddar cheese, chives and sour cream ($11 to $12).

But Enoteca, an expanded version of an Italian wine bar, specializes in small and medium-size lunch and supper dishes ranging from a plate of meat-stuffed olives ($6) to braised short ribs with spelt ($13).

There are salads, pizzas, pastas, seafood, meat and poultry dishes allowing patrons to enjoy a snack and a glass of wine, ranging to a full, sit-down dinner, the latter being as serious as a 34-ounce Piedmont-style porterhouse steak for two ($68).

But dinner here can also be a homey plate of pork cheeks, Italian sausage, braised sauerkraut and truffle-mashed potatoes ($19) or an herb- crusted sea bream dish ($24).

Wines can be ordered as 2 1/2-ounce tastes ($3.50 to $10.25), 6-ounce glasses ($7 to $21) or ``quartino,'' about a third of a regular-size bottle ($8.75 to $27.50). There are also a handful of flights of four wines in 2 1/2-ounce tastes ($21.50 to $31) for adventurers. Then there's the 250- bottle wine list as well.

Enoteca Drago at 410 N. Canon Drive, Beverly Hills, is open from 7 a.m. to 11 p.m. weekdays, from 8 a.m. to 11 p.m. Saturday and from 8 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday. Reservations: [phone].

- Larry Lipson

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