GOOD TASTES.

Byline: Natalie Haughton Staff Writer

COOKBOOK: Pam Anderson is back again, problem-solving and bringing us more of her best recipes in her third book, ``Cook Smart: Perfect Recipes for Every Day,'' (Houghton Mifflin; $28). In this volume, as in her other two, ``Perfect Recipe'' and ``How to Cook Without a Book,'' she shares can't-fail recipes and sensible techniques for everyday dishes we all love. This time around she includes oven-fried chicken, crab cakes, ribs, chocolate cake, vegetable lasagne, french fries, great gazpacho, peach pie and much more - some 100 recipes total.

What makes her books unique is that Anderson tests and retests recipes dozens of time to deliver creations that taste superb and work flawlessly with as little time and effort as possible. Cooking smart means making a dish the best it can be. No special gizmos, gadgets or equipment are required - and recipes use readily available supermarket ingredients.

For instance, to avoid overcooking shrimp and ending up with rubbery, dry results, Anderson's numerous experiments confirmed that shrimp are best steamed, covered, on low heat stove top in a single layer on a collapsible steamer basket over an inch of water (that has previously come to a boil) for 4 to 6 minutes. This method yields tender textured shrimp with a half-heart shape as opposed to boiled shrimp which she found were tight and rubbery.

Anderson, a food columnist for USA Weekend magazine, and former executive editor of Cook's Illustrated, writes essays (preceding each recipe) detailing her experiments that are particularly appealing, especially in understanding the dish and principles that can be applied to other cooking scenarios.

- Natalie Haughton

TURN OUT SOFT SERVE ICE CREAM: For those who love soft-serve ice cream or yogurt and want to produce it at home with a bunch of add-ins, Applica Consumers Products, Inc. just introduced the electric Black & Decker Arctic Twister Ice Cream Mixer. It's quick and convenient to use. Simply scoop your favorite store-bought ice cream or yogurt into the top of the mixer and add pieces of candy, nuts, granola, cookies, partially frozen fruits, etc. to the tube to make lots of creative concoctions. Turn the power on and start pumping. In just minutes, the mixer will dispense a soft-serve treat from the shoot into a cup, bowl or ice cream cone.

The mixer is fun to use for entertaining at birthday parties, kid's festivities, holidays and the like. Suggested retail price is $65 to $70. Look for the mixer at Bed, Bath and Beyond stores or order by calling [phone] or going to the Website www.blackanddecker.com.

- N. H.

NEW: The J.M. Smucker Company recently introduced two new ice cream toppings to its line - Twix Magic Shell and Milky Way Ice Cream Topping. The Twix product combines chocolate and caramel with bits of cookies. You simply squeeze onto ice cream or frozen yogurt and it ``magically freezes in seconds.'' Crack the shell and dig in. It's delicious; tasters gave it a thumbs up.

Although the Milky Way topping is supposed to taste like a combination of chocolate, caramel and nougat (according to company literature), we thought it tasted mostly like caramel - but it was excellent in any case. Suggested retail prices for a 7.25-ounce jar of Magic Shell and a 12-ounce jar of the topping are $1.99 and $1.89 respectively. Look for them in the ice cream topping section of supermarkets.

- N. H.

FARMERS MARKETS: The new Encino Commons Farmer's Market is now open Saturdays 9 a.m. to 1 p.m. at Paso Robles and Ventura Boulevard across from Genesta Park.

Beginning August 2, the Village at Sherman Oaks will host a farmer's market each Friday 4 p.m. to 8 p.m. It will be located on Vesper Avenue between Ventura Boulevard and Moorpark Street.

If you live in the neighborhood, checks these out. Both will offer fresh fruits, vegetables and plants along with fresh breads, sweets and more.

- N. H.

DINING OUT: Acknowledged as one of the top seafood restaurants in the west, Water Grill, downtown Los Angeles, has begun serving a $35 three-course prix-fixe lunch on weekdays. The menu, which changes weekly, offers diners an opportunity to experience a variety of dishes from Water Grill's chef Michael Cimarusti and pastry chef Wonyee Tom.

A sample prix-fixe lunch could begin with a choice of three starters, one a selection of half a dozen oysters on the half shell, another a chilled white gazpacho soup with lump crab meat and olive oil, and the third possibility a salad dish of field greens with crisp vegetables and a mustard vinaigrette.

The main course might be a North Atlantic skate wing with Spanish chorizo, Piquillo peppers, green onions and tapenade, or pan-roasted French dorade with yellow sweetpea potatoes, haricots verts and yellow wax beans. Desserts might be profiteroles with caramel ice cream and bittersweet chocolate sauce or a selection of house-produced ice creams and sorbets.

The Water Grill, 544 S. Grand Ave., Los Angeles, serves these lunches, in addition to their regular lunch menu, from 11:30 a.m. to 3:30 p.m. weekdays. The restaurant is also open for dinner daily. For reservations, call [phone].

- Larry Lipson

CAPTION(S):

3 photos

Photo:

(1) no caption (Book: ``Cook Smart: Perfect Recipes for Every Day'')

(2) no caption (Black & Decker Arctic Twister Ice Cream Mixer)

(3) no caption (Twix Magic Shell and Milky Way Ice Cream Topping)