GO HAWAIIAN; CHEF DISHES UP A BOUNTY OF ISLAND-STYLE FARE.Byline: Natalie Haughton Daily News Food Editor Feast on island fare this Memorial Day with inspired and fabulous-tasting creations from Hawaiian native and chef-restaurateur Sam Choy Sam Choy is a chef, restaurateur, and television personality known as a founding contributor of "Pacific rim cuisine".[1] Choy is an alumni of the Kapiolani Community College Culinary Arts program. . The recipe ideas from paradise come from more than 200 presented in his recently released cookbook, ``Sam Choy's Island Flavors'' (Hyperion; $27.95). All showcase how you can achieve great flavor with minimal fuss and end up with results that are as vibrant and laid-back as Hawaii itself. Many blend together an eclectic mix of ingredients, cultures and culinary traditions - from Asia, Polynesia, Europe and the Americas. The culinary landscape in the Hawaiian Islands is vast, the result of a multicultural society that came from all corners of the world, bringing with it different foods, families, traditions and personalities, Choy said. ``All this has melded into what we call local-style, Island-style, Hawaiian-style or what I like to call Island cuisine,'' he said. borrowed so many cooking methods and ingredients in this crossroads of the Pacific that it's easy to lose track of the origin of each element.'' Choy has adapted and designed his recipes for home kitchens - and has made them accessible to novice and accomplished cooks. Recipes range from simple to more complicated. The most intimidating and time-consuming recipes require making two or three additional recipes, such as marinades or sauces, to complete the dish. But all of the dishes sampled - including Wok-Barbecued Shrimp With Pepper-Papaya-Pineapple Chutney chut·ney n. A pungent relish made of fruits, spices, and herbs. [Hindi ca  n , O'ahu-Style Potato Salad, Hale'iwa Barbecued Pork Barbecued pork may refer to:
Particularly enjoyable are the accompanying recipe notes, which give a glimpse of Choy's style and enthusiasm for his craft. Many sound so tempting you may want to rush into the kitchen and get cooking. ``The book, which took eight months to write, is geared to every person who loves to cook and loves good food,'' Choy said during a recent stopover in Beverly Hills Beverly Hills, city (1990 pop. 31,971), Los Angeles co., S Calif., completely surrounded by the city of Los Angeles; inc. 1914. The largely residential city is home to many motion-picture and television personalities. . Sixty percent of the recipes have been culled from family favorites, while the remaining 40 percent represent dishes served in his restaurants. Among Choy's cooking staples are papayas, pineapple, ginger, cilantro, soy sauce, sesame seed oil, macadamia macadamia (măk'ədā`mēə), name for the nut of the Macadamia ternifolia, an evergreen tree native to Australia, but cultivated in Hawaii. The nuts, also called Queensland nuts, are eaten roasted or raw. nuts, mangoes, guavas, coconuts, garlic, ginger and fresh fish, herbs and vegetables. If a recipe includes an unfamiliar ingredient or one you can't find in a local supermarket, don't panic
Don't panic may refer to:
taro Herbaceous plant (Colocasia esculenta) of the arum family, probably native to Southeast Asia and taken to the Pacific islands. leaves; or any firm white fish in place of ono. Substitute Tabasco sauce for chile sauce or spinach or kale kale, borecole (bôr`kōl), and collards, common names for nonheading, hardy types of cabbage (var. for choy sum, a Chinese cabbage Chinese cabbage Either of two widely cultivated members of the mustard family, bok choy and Brassica pekinensis. The latter vegetable, also called celery cabbage, forms a tight head of crinkled light green leaves. It has long been grown in the U.S. as a salad vegetable. . Asian ingredients called for in recipes can be found in most Asian markets, he noted, adding that he believes exotic spices and condiments are worth tracking down as they bring a unique flavor experience to a meal. ``Cooking is really very simple,'' he said. ``The trick is to know your ingredients, their properties, their flavors, their ability to blend. The rest is just technique and creativity. Art exists when there is a balance between ingredients and technique, with a whole lot of love thrown in.'' Choy came by his love of cooking and food at an early age. His father, of Chinese descent, was born and raised in Hawaii, the son of taro farmers. He was a great cook, noted Choy, recalling memories of his father whipping up big pots of steaming oxtail soup Noun 1. oxtail soup - a soup made from the skinned tail of an ox oxtail - the skinned tail of cattle; used especially for soups soup - liquid food especially of meat or fish or vegetable stock often containing pieces of solid food , chow mein, stir-fries, braised braise tr.v. braised, brais·ing, brais·es To cook (meat or vegetables) by browning in fat, then simmering in a small quantity of liquid in a covered container. entrees, barbecued meats and Hawaiian dishes like lomi salmon Lomi Salmon (more commonly known as lomi-lomi salmon) is a side dish in Pacific Island cuisine. It is a fresh tomato and salmon salad, believed to have origins from the Polynesian Islands, and common today in Hawai'i. . ``He instilled in me the need to marinate mar·i·nate v. mar·i·nat·ed, mar·i·nat·ing, mar·i·nates v.tr. To soak (meat, for example) in a marinade. v.intr. To become marinated. foods - like chicken, fish and meats - lightly.'' Nowadays, Choy uses marinades often to infuse in·fuse v. 1. To steep or soak without boiling in order to extract soluble elements or active principles. 2. To introduce a solution into the body through a vein for therapeutic purposes. the flavor of the food with the essence of the marinade ingredients. He also uses marinades to seal in Verb 1. seal in - close with or as if with a tight seal; "This vacuum pack locks in the flavor!" lock in confine - prevent from leaving or from being removed the juices in meat or fish before grilling and to keep it from drying out or burning. His father also taught him to cut, chop or julienne ju·li·enne n. Consommé or broth garnished with long thin strips of vegetables. adj. also ju·li·enned Cut into long thin strips: julienne potatoes; julienned pork. foods the same size for even cooking in stir-fries or other dishes. Choy's mother, part German but mostly Hawaiian, brought the flavors of European cooking to the table, and with it heavier foods, including gravies and sausages and strong vinegars. His parents' culinary styles formed the foundation of Choy's unique style as a chef, one who is easygoing eas·y·go·ing also eas·y-go·ing adj. 1. a. Living without undue worry or concern; calm. b. Lax or negligent; careless. c. Hawaiian, focused German, wild Chinese and Island boy to the max. He describes his cooking as casual, local Hawaiian style and believes in making it simple, using the freshest ingredients available. He often relies on boutique growers to produce fresh produce items that he uses in his restaurants. Texture is just as important as taste in the enjoyment of a meal, he added, noting that he is careful to avoid overcooking anything. ``Remember that food continues to cook after you have removed it from the heat source, so watch it closely.'' Presentation is also important to Choy, who prefers to garnish his plates with edible items that will contribute to the flavor of the dish. ``The way the plate is presented should be a pleasing sight as it sets the taste buds taste buds taste npl → Geschmacksknospen pl up for having a good meal.'' Although Choy's happiness shines through when he's cooking, his greatest joy comes from sharing the cuisine of Hawaii Modern Hawaiian cuisine is a fusion of many cuisines brought by multi-ethnic immigrants to the islands, particularly of American, Chinese, Filipino, Japanese, Korean, Polynesian and Portuguese origins, and including food sources from plants and animals imported for Hawaiian . ``Watching people's eyes sparkle when they take a bite of one of my new dishes or when they let a ``Wow!'' sneak out Verb 1. sneak out - leave furtively and stealthily; "The lecture was boring and many students slipped out when the instructor turned towards the blackboard" slip away, sneak away, sneak off, steal away through a mouthful of my onolicious cooking is a real pleasure.'' Choy suggests making his recipes the way he's written them the first time around to acquaint yourself with his cuisine. Then feel free to improvise and change the spices, flavors or garnishes according to according to prep. 1. As stated or indicated by; on the authority of: according to historians. 2. In keeping with: according to instructions. 3. your tastes. Bring the taste and joy of the Hawaiian Islands to your table Memorial Day and all summer long with these creations from ``Sam Choy's Island Flavors.'' WOK-BARBECUED SHRIMP WITH PEPPER-PAPAYA-PINEAPPLE CHUTNEY I ``fire up'' my wok-cooked shrimp by marinating them in the zesty flavors of fresh ginger and Asian chiles. Pour stir-fried shrimp over a bed of hot rice with the spicy chutney on the side for dipping. You can also skip the rice and serve as appetizers. 1 pound jumbo shrimp (16 to 20 count) Wok Barbecue Marinade (recipe follows) 1 1/2 tablespoons canola oil Noun 1. canola oil - vegetable oil made from rapeseed; it is high in monounsaturated fatty acids canola vegetable oil, oil - any of a group of liquid edible fats that are obtained from plants Pepper-Papaya-Pineapple Chutney (recipe follows) To prepare shrimp, shell and devein Verb 1. devein - remove the dark dorsal vein of (a shrimp) get rid of, remove - dispose of; "Get rid of these old shoes!"; "The company got rid of all the dead wood" , but leave tails attached. Marinate in Wok Barbecue Marinade 30 minutes. In a wok, heat oil and stir-fry shrimp over high heat 4 to 5 minutes. Do not overcook overcook Verb to spoil food by cooking it for too long Verb 1. overcook - cook too long; "The vegetables were completely overcooked" . Serve with Pepper-Papaya-Pineapple Chutney. Makes 4 servings. WOK BARBECUE MARINADE 1/4 cup canola oil 2 tablespoons soy sauce 2 tablespoons peeled and minced fresh ginger 2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro 1 tablespoon minced fresh garlic 1/2 teaspoon granulated sugar Noun 1. granulated sugar - sugar in the form of small grains powdered sugar - sugar granulated into a fine powder refined sugar, sugar - a white crystalline carbohydrate used as a sweetener and preservative granulated sugar 1 chile, seeded and chopped (OR 1/8 teaspoon red chile pepper flakes) Combine all ingredients and mix well. Makes 1 cup. PEPPER-PAPAYA-PINEAPPLE CHUTNEY 1 small fresh pineapple, peeled, cored and chopped 1 medium fresh papaya papaya (pəpī`ə), soft-stemmed tree (Carica papaya) of tropical America resembling a palm with a crown of palmately lobed leaves. , seeded, peeled and chopped 1 tablespoon peeled and minced fresh ginger 6 tablespoons granulated sugar 1 tablespoon hot Asian chile paste, such as sambal sam·bal n. A spicy condiment used especially in Indonesia and Malaysia, made with chili peppers and other ingredients, such as sugar or coconut. oelek In a medium saucepan, combine all ingredients except chile paste. Cook, uncovered, over medium heat 1 hour or until mixture has a syrupy consistency. Fold in chile paste. Makes 1 1/2 cups. O'AHU-STYLE POTATO SALAD There are all different things in this salad - crab, uncooked corn kernels that add a little crunchiness. Whew whew interj. Used to express strong emotion, such as relief or amazement. whew interj an exclamation of relief, surprise, disbelief, or weariness , `ono (delicious). It's great to take to the beach or a tailgate party. 2 pounds new red potatoes Water 2 cups crab meat, picked over well 1/2 cup shelled, cooked small shrimp 4 hard-cooked eggs, chopped 1 cup fresh corn kernels 1/2 cup pitted medium ripe olives 1/4 cup sliced water chestnuts 1 1/2 cups cleaned and chopped fresh spinach 1/2 cup minced sweet onion 1/2 cup minced celery 1/2 grated carrots 2 1/2 cups mayonnaise Salt and pepper
Cook potatoes in lightly salted boiling water until fork-tender. Cool, peel if desired, then cut into eighths. In a large mixing bowl, toss potatoes with remaining ingredients lightly to combine. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper if necessary. Makes 8 servings. HALE'IWA BARBECUED PORK RIBS The reason I call this Hale'iwa barbecued pork ribs, is that we used to go to Hale'iwa Beach Park on Sunday drives and have barbecues. It was important that we had the ribs marinated and cooked ahead of time so we didn't have to spend all day over the coals. We'd just throw them on the grill, brush them with sauce and as soon as they heated through, we'd have a delicious, quick meal. 2 whole slabs pork ribs, cut into sections of 3 ribs EACH Water 1/2 cup sea salt OR kosher salt 4 cloves fresh garlic 1 finger fresh ginger, peeled 2 green onions Hale'iwa Barbecue Sauce (recipe follows) Place ribs in a stockpot and cover with water. Start with 1/2 cup sea salt and keep adding until water tastes salty, then add garlic, ginger and green onions. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat and let simmer 45 minutes to 1 hour or until ribs are tender. Meanwhile, prepare Hale'iwa Barbecue Sauce. When ribs are tender, remove from stockpot and let cool. Cover tightly and store in refrigerator until ready to barbecue. Brush with Hale'iwa Barbecue Sauce and grill over hot coals on a hibachi until heated through. Continue to baste baste 1 tr.v. bast·ed, bast·ing, bastes To sew loosely with large running stitches so as to hold together temporarily. ribs with barbecue sauce as they cook. Makes 4 to 6 servings. HALE'IWA BARBECUE SAUCE 1 teaspoon red chile pepper flakes 2 cans (15 ounces EACH) tomato sauce 2 cups packed brown sugar 1/2 cup vinegar 1/2 cup honey 2 cups minced onions 2 teaspoons liquid smoke 2 teaspoons chili powder 1 teaspoon coarsely cracked black pepper 2 tablespoons steak sauce 1/2 teaspoon dry mustard 1 cinnamon stick 1 cup canned crushed pineapple 1 tablespoon mixed fresh garlic Combine all ingredients in a saucepan, bring to a boil, reduce heat and simmer 1 hour. Strain. Makes 3 to 3 1/2 cups. SWEET-AND-SOUR CHICKEN BREASTS WITH TROPICAL FRUITS I really like making this dish because it gives a whole new twist to sweet-and-sour-sauce. Adding fresh tropical fruit makes it different. 4 boneless Bone´less a. 1. Without bones. Adj. 1. boneless - being without a bone or bones; "jellyfish are boneless" , skinless chicken breast halves, 6 to 8 ounces EACH Maui Moa Marinade (recipe follows) 1/2 cup all-pupose flour 3 tablespoons vegetable oil 1 cup diced fresh pineapple 1 cup chopped fresh papaya 1 cup chopped mangos OR tropical fruit of your choice Sweet-and-Sour Sauce (recipe follows) Green onion strips and sprigs of fresh cilantro for garnish Cover chicken with Maui Moa Marinade and let stand 30 minutes. Remove chicken from marinade and blot off excess liquid. Dust chicken with flour to coat. Pan-fry in oil until golden brown, about 4 minutes per side on medium heat. Remove chicken, set aside and tent with foil to keep warm. Discard most oil in pan, leaving about 1 tablespoon. Stir-fry fruit 2 minutes. Add Sweet-and-Sour Sauce and heat through. Arrange chicken breasts on a serving platter, pour some sauce over them and garnish with green onion strips and cilantro. Pass remaining sauce separately. Makes 4 servings. MAUI MOA MARINADE 1/2 cup soy sauce 1/2 cup canola oil 2 tablespoons mirin mir·in n. A sweet Japanese rice wine used especially in cooking. [Japanese : Middle Chinese mei, flavor + Middle Chinese lan, (Japanese sweet rice wine) 1 tablespoon minced fresh garlic 1 tablespoon peeled and minced fresh ginger 1/2 teaspoon salt 1/4 teaspoon white pepper 2 tablespoons cornstarch cornstarch, material made by pulverizing the ground, dried residue of corn grains after preparatory soaking and the removal of the embryo and the outer covering. It is used as laundry starch, in sizing paper, in making adhesives, and in cooking. mixed with 1 1/2 tablespoons water 1 1/2 teaspoons brown sugar Combine all ingredients. Makes 1 1/2 cups. SWEET-AND-SOUR SAUCE 1/2 cup ketchup 1/2 cup vinegar 1/2 cup water 2 teaspoons soy sauce 1 cup granulated sugar 1/4 cup orange marmalade 1 1/2 teaspoons peeled and minced fresh ginger 1 teaspoon minced fresh garlic 1/4 teaspoon hot pepper sauce 2 tablespoons pineapple juice 2 tablespoons cornstarch blended with 1 1/2 tablespoons water Combine all ingredients except cornstarch mixture in a medium saucepan. Bring to a boil. Stir in cornstarch mixture, reduce heat and simmer, stirring frequently, 1 to 2 minutes or until thickened thick·en tr. & intr.v. thick·ened, thick·en·ing, thick·ens 1. To make or become thick or thicker: Thicken the sauce with cornstarch. The crowd thickened near the doorway. 2. , stirring constantly. Makes about 4 cups. EASY FRUIT SALAD FOR THE BEACH Cut the fruit and mix the dressing and keep them separate until you're ready to eat, then mix them together in a large bowl and have at it. FRUITS: 1/2 honeydew melon honeydew melon: see melon. , sliced into 1/2-inch chunks 1/2 cantaloupe cantaloupe: see gourd; melon. , sliced into 1/2-inch chunks 1 papaya, sliced into 1/2-inch chunks 1 pineapple, sliced into 1/2-inch chunks 6 strawberries 1/2 bunch of grapes DRESSING: 2 tablespoons dairy sour cream 2 tablespoons mayonnaise Salt and pepper to taste 1 tablespoon pineapple jam OR papaya-pineapple marmalade Mix fruits together just before serving. Combine dressing ingredients and serve with fruit salad. Makes 4 to 6 servings. MACADAMIA NUT PIE This is a rich dessert - macadamia nuts suspended in a sweet, creamy pie filling and topped with fluffy whipped cream. Serve it with a good hot cup of Kona-blend coffee. 3 eggs 2/3 cup granulated sugar 1 cup light corn syrup 2 cups coarsely chopped macadamia nuts 2 tablespoons butter, melted 1 teaspoon vanilla 1 unbaked un·baked adj. Not having been baked or cooked, especially in an oven: unbaked bricks; an unbaked pie crust. 9-inch pie shell Whipped cream (optional) and 2 tablespoons chopped macadamia nuts for garnish Beat eggs with sugar and corn syrup. Stir in 2 cups macadamia nuts. Add butter and vanilla and blend well. Pour mixture into pie shell. Bake in preheated 325-degree oven 50 minutes or until crust is golden and center is somewhat set. Test by shaking gently. Let cool, then chill. Garnish with a swirl of whipped cream and a sprinkling of remaining 2 tablespoons chopped macadamia nuts. Makes 8 servings. MINAKA'S MACNUT BROWNIE I really enjoy a good, crunchy-crusted, gooey See GUI. brownie. So, when my friend Minaka brought these brownies to a Christmas party, I asked her for the recipe. In my restaurants I top the brownies with two scoops of vanilla ice cream and a thin stream of chocolate syrup. It's a real treat. 4 ounces dark OR semisweet sem·i·sweet adj. Having a small amount of sweetening: semisweet chocolate. Adj. 1. semisweet - having a taste that is a mixture of bitterness and sweetness bittersweet chocolate 8 tablespoons (1 stick) butter 3 eggs 1 1/4 cups granulated sugar 1 teaspoon vanilla 1 cup sifted all-purpose flour 1/4 cup diced macadamia nuts Butter an 8-inch square baking pan. Melt chocolate and butter in a double boiler over simmering water. Whip eggs with sugar and vanilla 5 to 10 minutes until thick and pale yellow in color. Gradually stream melted chocolate into egg mixture, whipping constantly. Fold flour into batter, then turn into prepared pan. Sprinkle macadamia nuts on top. Bake in preheated 325-degree oven 20 to 25 minutes or until an inserted toothpick toothpick, n a wood sliver used to cleanse the interdental space. toothpick, balsa wood, n a triangular wedge of balsa wood used to clean the teeth interproximally and stimulate the interdental gingival tissues. comes out almost clean. Cool. Cut into 12 bars. Top with vanilla ice cream before serving. Makes 6 servings. CHEF PROFILE Sam Choy Age: 47. Profession: Chef-restaurateur. Hometown: Born in Laie, Hawaii (on the North Shore of Oahu); currently resides in Kona, Hawaii. Food background: While growing up, Choy's parents exposed him to a wide variety of foods. He began cooking at the age of 9 and learned while helping his father prepare 800-person luau feasts for tourists. After a community college culinary degree, he honed his skills in the kitchens of a couple of Hawaiian hotels and the Waldorf-Astoria Hotel in New York New York, state, United States New York, Middle Atlantic state of the United States. It is bordered by Vermont, Massachusetts, Connecticut, and the Atlantic Ocean (E), New Jersey and Pennsylvania (S), Lakes Erie and Ontario and the Canadian province of . In 1991 he opened his flagship Sam Choy's Restaurant in Kona - and since then has opened eight more - including locations in Tokyo and San Diego. He'll also be opening a restaurant in Guam next month. Cooking style: Casual local Hawaiian- or Island-style cuisine. Kitchen secret: Making sure the food gets from the kitchen to the dining table as soon as possible for optimum freshness. ``People care about what you put in front of them, and they value flavors and freshness,'' pointed out Choy. Most popular dish he makes: Fried poke (a traditional Hawaiian dish made of raw fish cut into cubes, marinated in a special sauce and quickly seared sear 1 v. seared, sear·ing, sears v.tr. 1. To char, scorch, or burn the surface of with or as if with a hot instrument. See Synonyms at burn1. 2. ). Three favorite foods: Fish; one-pot meals; breads. Favorite junk foods: Popcorn, and peanut butter and jelly sandwiches. Favorite thing to cook and eat: Grilled and smoked fish. Food he hates: Candies. Secret food passion: Good ice cream - like Ben and Jerry's. Favorite kitchen gadget: A good Chinese cleaver. Pet peeve: People who don't pick up after themselves. Ideal vacation: Cruising on the Crystal Harmony or Crystal Symphony cruise ships - not working and enjoying wonderful food. Favorite restaurant: Hee Hing in Oahu. Why are you called the Spam King? A couple of years ago Choy was written up in the Wall Street Journal for serving Spam at his Kona restaurant, which is popular with local diners. He serves it sushi style in addition to Spam with eggs. However, he is quick to note that he doesn't personally eat Spam. What does he do when not cooking?: Golfs, fishes, walks the dogs and watches his 13-year-old son, Christopher, play baseball. If he couldn't be a chef, what would he be?: A teacher or coach. Dream job: Being a good father. Worst kitchen disaster: Running out of prime rib at a wedding he was catering for 500 people in the '70s as he had hand cut the meat too thick. Choy served chicken to the remaining 50 people. Since that time, he's never run out of food again. If he could dine with anyone (current or historical), who would it be?: His mom and dad (deceased) and his wife, Carol. Most memorable meal: At his mom's house - creamed chicken, Harvard beets and garlic mashed potatoes. The worst part of being a chef is: Being invited over to dinner at peoples' homes because they go too far and do too much, foodwise. ``I like to eat simple food.'' CAPTION(S): 5 Photos, Box Photo: (1--Color) Wok-Barbecued Shrimp With Pepper-Papaya-Pineapple Chutney combines the zesty flavors of chiles and fresh ginger for a memorable Memorial Day party dish. (2--Color) Hale'iwa Barbecued Pork Ribs will bring the flavor of the islands to your alfresco celebration. (3--Color) A great side dish for barbecue festivities fes·tiv·i·ty n. pl. fes·tiv·i·ties 1. A joyous feast, holiday, or celebration; a festival. 2. The pleasure, joy, and gaiety of a festival or celebration. 3. is O'ahu-Style Potato Salad made with crab, shrimp, eggs, potatoes, corn, olives, spinach, carrots and onions. (4--Color) With papaya, pineapple and mango, Sweet-and-Sour Chicken Breasts With Tropical Fruits brings a fresh twist to grilled chicken. Present it as an option for Memorial Day dining. (5--Color) Sam Choy Gus Ruelas/Daily News Box: CHEF PROFILE - Sam Choy (See text) |
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