GO FISHING THE RIGHT WAY TO PREPARE FISH - WITH LESS SMELL AND MESS.

Byline: Natalie Haughton Food Editor

If you only eat fish in restaurants because it is too messy or smelly to fix in your kitchen, you may want to reconsider.

``Quick to cook, low in fat and rich in flavor, fish is an almost perfect food,'' writes Carolyn Miller in the new ``Williams-Sonoma Seafood'' (Simon & Schuster; $16.95), which includes more than 40 recipes.

Although seafood ranks fourth in popularity in this country (following beef, poultry and pork), fish and shellfish consumption has increased steadily, from 15.6 pounds per person in 2002 to 16.3 pounds in 2003. According to the 16th annual Weber GrillWatch Survey, 54 percent of respondents grill seafood - with salmon the most popular, followed by shrimp, trout and tuna.

``Perfectly cooked fresh fish is a true taste sensation,'' says Napa Valley-based Hugh Carpenter in ``Fast Fish,'' written with his photographer wife, Teri Sandison. He's out to help you get terrific-tasting fish entrees on the table in 15 minutes or less using one of eight different cooking methods - barbecuing, broiling, roasting, pan-frying, stir-frying, poaching, steaming and microwaving.

The book focuses on nine of the most popular fish sold in the United States, with a chapter devoted to each - black Cod (Sablefish), catfish, halibut, salmon, snapper, sole, swordfish, trout and tuna. Chapter intros include profiles of the fish along with substitution suggestions.

Carpenter's rules for fish are simple: ``Buy fresh (not frozen), lower the heat rather than raise it, and err on the side of undercooking (fish can always be returned to the microwave for 15 seconds).''

``Freshness is absolutely key to the texture and flavor of fish,'' emphasizes Jamie Purviance, a San Francisco Bay Area culinary consultant and author of the recently released ``Weber's Real Grilling''(Sunset Weber; $24.95).

Look for flawlessly fresh fish, whether whole or cut into steaks or fillets, that glistens and has a glossy sheen or shimmer on the surface, says Carpenter. The fish should have tightly connected flesh with no liquid around it - and no odor.

Cook fresh fish the same day it's purchased or within one day. Once cooked, the fish will keep up to three days, refrigerated.

``The general rule for cooking fish is 8 to 10 minutes for every inch of fish thickness, except when microwaving.''

Fish is done when it begins to flake when prodded with a fork, when the blunt end of a bamboo chopstick pressed into the top center of the fish sinks in easily, or when an instant-read thermometer registers 140 degrees F.

Although fresh fish really only needs some salt, pepper and olive oil prior to cooking, marinades, rubs and spices can be used if desired to add more complex flavors to the surface.

Microwaving is the best way to cook fish fast, yielding phenomenally moist results, says Carpenter.

``Chefs would be mortified about cooking fish in the microwave because it looks too anemic and doesn't have a nice caramelized surface that comes with barbecuing, pan-frying or broiling.''

Put the fish in a circle around the outside edge of a dinner plate, cover loosely with plastic wrap and microwave on high power 1 minute. Continue microwaving the fish in 1-minute increments, turning, checking and covering after each minute. A 1-inch-thick fish piece (about 12 ounces total) should take roughly 3 minutes total at high power.

When broiling, Carpenter opts to turn on the broiler only after the pan is in the oven, positioned 4 inches from the heat source. He broils the fish until it turns light golden and caramelizes (which takes about 4 to 8 minutes). If the fish isn't done, turn the oven to bake at 300 degrees F and continue cooking until the fish barely flakes, about 3 to 4 more minutes.

Be aware that pan-frying causes even the freshest fish to release a characteristic fish smell, caused by the contact of hot fat with the surface of the fish in an open pan, says Carpenter. To avoid any odor, pan-fry the fish briefly, then transfer the pan to a 350-degree F oven to complete cooking.

Purviance, a fan of grilling fish, says that firm, thicker fish - such as salmon, swordfish, tuna and grouper - are easiest to grill. He never uses a rack, basket or foil.

``One of the reasons I love grilled food, and fish in particular, is because of the seared caramelized taste on the surface of the fish.''

To prevent the fish from sticking, start with a clean grate, a grill preheated to 500 degrees F (high heat) and fish oiled all over. Once the fish is on the grill, have patience.

``You need to leave the fish alone long enough for it to caramelize and release (from the grate). Don't try to turn it too soon.''

Typically, the first side will require 7 minutes, then maybe only 2 to 3 minutes on the second side. Always turn the fish (using tongs) unless it is really thin (1/2 inch) and keep it covered.

Natalie Haughton, [phone]

natalie.haughton(at)dailynews.com

SHRIMP TACOS WITH POBLANO-AVOCADO SALSA 

SALSA:

1 ear corn, husked 

6 green onions, white and light green parts only

Extra virgin olive oil

1 medium poblano chile

1 cup cherry tomatoes, cut into 1/4-inch dice

1 Hass avocado, cut into 1/4-inch dice

1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh cilantro

1 tablespoon fresh lime juice

1 teaspoon minced garlic

1/4 teaspoon kosher salt

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

SHRIMP:

32 large raw shrimp, about 1 1/2 pounds, peeled and deveined

1/4 teaspoon kosher salt

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

8 (8-inch) flour tortillas

To make Salsa, brush or spray corn and green onions all over with oil. Grill corn until browned in spots and tender, green onions until lightly marked, and chile until black and blistered in spots, over direct medium heat, turning occasionally. Corn and chile will take 10 to 12 minutes and green onions 3 to 4 minutes. Trim root ends off green onions; finely chop remaining parts and put in a medium bowl. Cut kernels off corn cob and add to bowl. When cool enough to handle, peel off loosened bits of skin from chile and discard along with stem; finely chop remaining parts of chile and add to bowl. Add remaining salsa ingredients. Drizzle 1 tablespoon olive oil into bowl and mix thoroughly.

For Shrimp, brush or spray shrimp all over with oil and season with salt and pepper. Grill over direct high heat until shrimp are firm to touch and just turning opaque in center, 2 to 4 minutes, turning once. Grill tortillas over direct medium heat until warm, 20 to 60 seconds, turning once. Fill tortillas with salsa and shrimp. Serve warm. Makes 4 servings (8 tacos).

From ``Weber's Real Grilling,'' by Jamie Purviance.

HALIBUT ROASTED IN PROSCIUTTO 

1/2 cup tapenade 

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil

2 cloves garlic, minced

1 teaspoon grated lime zest

1/2 teaspoon your favorite chile sauce

1/2 teaspoon salt

8 (4x8-inch) paper-thin prosciutto slices

1 1/2 pounds halibut fillet, cut into 8 square pieces

In a bowl, combine tapenade, olive oil, basil, garlic, lime zest, chile sauce and salt; mix well. Lay pieces of prosciutto out on a work surface. Position a piece of fish at one end of each piece of prosciutto. Top fish with a spoonful of tapenade mixture. Fold long end of prosciutto over fish and tuck edges underneath.

Place fish packages in a baking dish. Roast in a preheated 450-degree F oven 12 minutes, until fish flakes when prodded with a fork. Transfer to dinner plates and serve at once. Makes 4 servings.

From ``Fast Fish,'' by Hugh Carpenter and Teri Sandison.

GREEN THAI-CURRIED SNAPPER

(On the cover)

4 cloves garlic

2 tablespoons sliced fresh ginger

1 cup packed basil leaves, mint leaves OR cilantro sprigs

1 teaspoon ground coriander 

1 teaspoon caraway seeds

1 teaspoon ground cumin 

1/2 cup peanut, safflower OR corn oil

2/3 cup unsweetened coconut milk

2 tablespoons Thai fish sauce

4 (6-ounce) snapper fillets

Asian chile sauce, for garnish

1 lime, cut into wedges

In bowl of a food processor, combine garlic and ginger and process until minced. Add basil and process until minced. Add coriander, caraway seeds and cumin and process until incorporated. With motor running, slowly add 3 to 4 tablespoons oil, until a paste forms. Transfer paste to a bowl, add coconut milk and fish sauce, and stir well. (The sauce can be covered and refrigerated up to 8 hours before using.)

Working in batches or using 2 large saute pans, place pans over medium heat. When pans are hot, add remaining 1/4 cup oil. When oil is hot, add fish, curved side down. Cook, turning once, about 1 minute on each side, until lightly browned. Pour in sauce. Cover pans and reduce heat to low. Simmer 5 minutes, until fish just begins to flake when prodded with a fork.

Transfer fish to dinner plates. Spoon sauce over top. Garnish with dots or splashes of chile sauce and serve with lime wedges. Makes 4 servings

From ``Fast Fish,'' by Hugh Carpenter and Teri Sandison.

GRILLED AHI TUNA WITH MANGO SALSA

FISH:

4 (6- to 8-ounce) ahi tuna steaks

3 tablespoons peanut OR canola oil, plus extra for greasing

Juice of 1 lime

Sea salt and freshly ground white pepper

MANGO SALSA:

2 ripe mangoes, peeled, pitted and cut into 1/4-inch dice

1/3 cup finely diced red onion

1/2 to 1 red serrano OR jalapeno chile, seeded if desired (to remove a good deal of spiciness), and minced

1/3 cup chopped fresh cilantro

Juice of 1 lime

2 tablespoons seasoned rice vinegar

1 tablespoon peeled and minced fresh ginger (optional)

Lime wedges for garnish

Marinated red onion for garnish (optional)

Prepare a charcoal or gas grill for grilling over high heat. You may also use a broiler (grill); line bottom of a broiler pan with foil.

To make Fish, place tuna steaks in a glass or ceramic dish just large enough to hold them. In a small bowl, whisk together oil, lime juice and sea salt and white pepper to taste. Pour mixture over steaks and turn to coat on both sides. Let stand at room temperature 30 minutes.

Meanwhile, make Mango Salsa. In a small bowl, combine diced mangoes, red onion, chile, cilantro, lime juice, vinegar and ginger, if using. Taste and adjust seasoning. Set salsa aside at room temperature to let flavors combine.

Preheat broiler now, if using.

Oil grill rack or top of a broiler pan with an oil-soaked paper towel. Measure thickness of tuna steaks. Place tuna steaks on grill rack, or place on oiled broiler pan and place pan under broiler 2 to 3 inches from heat source. Cook steaks 1/2-inch thick for 3 minutes on each side for medium-rare, 1 to 2 minutes for rare; adjust cooking time for thicker steaks accordingly.

Transfer steaks to warmed dinner plates and dollop salsa alongside or on top of steaks. Serve immediately, garnished with lime wedges and with marinated red onions, if you like. Makes 4 servings.

From ``Williams-Sonoma Seafood,'' recipes and text by Carolyn Miller.

GRILLED SALMON WITH GREEN GODDESS DRESSING 

SAUCE:

1/3 cup mayonnaise

1/4 cup sour cream

2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh chives 

1 tablespoon minced green onions

1 tablespoon tarragon vinegar

3 anchovy fillets, minced

FISH:

4 salmon fillets (with skin), 6 to 8 ounces EACH and about 1-inch thick

Extra virgin olive oil

Kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

To make Sauce, in a medium bowl, whisk together all sauce ingredients. To make Fish, generously brush or spray fillets with oil and season with salt and pepper to taste. Grill, flesh side down, over direct high heat until you can lift fillets with tongs off grate without them sticking, 6 to 8 minutes. Turn fillets and cook to desired doneness, 2 to 3 minutes for medium-rare. Slide a spatula between skin and flesh and transfer fillets to serving plates. Spoon sauce over fillets. Serve immediately. Makes 4 servings.

From ``Weber's Real Grilling,'' by Jamie Purviance.

CAPTION(S):

4 photos

Photo:

(1 -- cover -- color) GREEN THAI-CURRIED SNAPPER

(2 -- color) HALIBUT ROASTED IN PROSCIUTTO

Photo by Teri Sandison from ``Fast Fish,'' Ten Speed Press

(3 -- color) SHRIMP TACOS WITH POBLANO-AVOCADO SALSA

Photo by Tim Turner from ``Weber's Real Grilling,'' Sunset Weber

(4 -- color) GRILLED AHI TUNA WITH MANGO SALSA

Photo by Maren Caruso from ``Williams-Sonoma Seafood,'' Simon & Schuster