GLAMOUR, PANACHE MIX IN 2005 GOVERNORS BALL.

Byline: Natalie Haughton Food Editor

The Governors Ball following the 77th annual Academy Awards on Feb. 27 will capture the opulence of old Hollywood in a glamorous, romantic dinner-club setting. The table settings will be done in persimmon, sienna, copper and brick with accents of jade in the flowers and golden hues of amber from tabletop lamps.

``We are going for a different, luxurious supper-club feeling,'' says Cheryl Cecchetto of Sequoia Productions, which produces the Governors Ball. She is responsible for every detail, including decor, lighting, sound, entertainment and personnel.

Chef/restaurateur Wolfgang Puck, selected for the 11th consecutive year to create the multicourse sit-down dinner (the official after-party of the Academy Awards) for 1,600 Oscar winners, nominees, presenters and performers, will feature a mix of traditional signature dishes along with new creations. With his catering team of 200 in the kitchen and 600 people in the dining room, guests will be served in 45 minutes.

With a decade of experience under his belt, Puck says, ``We know what works and doesn't work now. The food must be memorable, delicious and beautiful.'' Puck pulls out all the stops and doesn't worry about health or diets on Oscar night. ``I believe in (eating) everything in moderation.''

Here are some of the details about the ball:

FOOD:

``We serve the best food available,'' says Puck. ``We've purchased 25 pounds of black truffles and 20 pounds of Iranian osetra caviar this year.''

--The passed hors d'oeuvres selections will feature five items, including Puck's signature smoked salmon pizza with caviar, roasted new potatoes with caviar and creme fraiche, Kobe beef burgers with Gorgonzola and caramelized onion, mini Vietnamese spring rolls, and samosas with tamarind glaze.

--The seated dinner will begin with beautiful antipasti platters (four will be delivered to each table) with truffled artichokes, smoked salmon on an Oscar-shaped cutout of flat bread, bruschetta with goat cheese and roasted peppers or marinated tomatoes and basil, marinated mushrooms, asparagus with prosciutto, and Chino Farms chopped vegetable salad.

--Next course will be a demitasse of chilled potato leek soup with caviar.

--Each entree plate will feature two creations - slow-braised Kobe beef short ribs (from Snake River Farms in Idaho) atop a kabocha squash puree; and Maine lobster en croute (wrapped in puff pastry marked with a 77 for the 77th year) with black truffles from France, a lobster sauce and a sprinkling of truffle oil. Assorted fresh vegetables will round out the plate.

Puck and a team of five chefs in the kitchen will also accommodate any special on-the-spot food requests - like chicken, vegetarian plates, etc.

``To do the Oscar party is really the most exciting event of the year.''

The most exciting part, he adds, once everyone is served on time, is to go into the dining room and visit with everyone (many friends) - and hear ``This is the best meal ever.''

--Pastry chef Sherry Yard's grand finale, inspired by the ballroom and ceiling decor, will showcase an extravagant six-layered creation stacked with almond cake and espresso cream surrounded with a sprinkling of bits of caramelized sugar and almonds. The top of the cake, gilded with a wafer-thin piece of solid bittersweet chocolate, will have a dollop of chocolate mousse and chocolate sauce. A gold-dusted wave created from fondant with an Oscar cutout in the center will grace the top of each. Of course, Yard won't forget the 24-karat gold-dusted mini solid chocolate molded Oscars, one for each diner, as a parting gift.

``It's always exciting (to make dessert for the ball) because you have to make a better dessert than you did the year before (with a surprise element),'' says Yard. ``I'm honestly not nervous until afterward - and then I wonder, 'What was I thinking?' ''

Although Puck has had numerous requests to sell the chocolate Oscars, the academy forbids it. The mold is kept under lock and key.

WINE:

--Wines by Sterling Vineyards will be poured at this year's ball and preshow Oscar reception. The company has created Red Carpet Reserve, a limited-edition Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon blend (it would retail for around $100 a bottle) to serve at the ball (it won't be in wine shops, but a limited amount will be available directly from the vineyard, or online at www.sterlingvineyards.com). A 2002 Reserve Chardonnay ($40 to $50 retail per bottle) will also be served.

The preshow reception will feature Sterling Vintner's Collection 2003 Sauvignon Blanc and 2002 Shiraz (both retail for about $12 a bottle).

DECOR:

--Tiered levels of seating (rectangular dining tables and low banquettes) framed by banister panels combined with interwoven tiered ceiling panels with dim golden light streaming through will transform the ballroom into an intimate setting. Each table will seat from 12 to 14 people. Chairs will be covered with a light sienna or brick-colored cloth.

--Fitted rust-hued tablecloths will be layered with geometric-patterned runners. Dramatic rust-red platters will be complemented by square black plates and vibrant shimmery persimmon-colored napkins. Golden amber hues of tabletop lamps will add to the atmosphere.

--Sisal carpet and hardwood floor aisles will cover the tiered ballroom floor. Wall treatments will consist of two-toned burgundy crushed satin and shimmering sheer black organza fabric panels.

FLOWERS:

Simple, attractive floral table centerpieces of spice-colored cymbidium orchids - green, brown, mauve with bright green moss accents - in long, low graphite metal containers - to complement the sleek, elegant decor - have been designed by Mark Held, co-owner of Mark's Garden in Sherman Oaks. If you want to order a similar arrangement for an at-home Oscar party, go online to www.marksflowers.com. Platinum-colored succulents or cone flowers will accompany the main centerpieces.

Natalie Haughton, [phone]

natalie.haughton(at)dailynews.com

CAPTION(S):

3 photos

Photo:

(1 -- 3) At left, pastry chef Sherry Yard and chef Wolfgang Puck arrange chocolate Oscars that have been sprayed with 24-karat gold; above, the Governors' Ball place settings feature centerpieces by Mark's Garden of Sherman Oaks; and bottom left, the entree will be Maine lobster wrapped in puff pastry with black truffles, along with Kobe beef short ribs.

John McCoy/Staff Photographer