GET HIP TO CODA - THE CLUB SO HOT, IT'S COOL.

Byline: Fred Shuster Staff Writer

Here in Los Angeles, we've borrowed more from New York than the Dodgers and thin-crust pizza. The town has finally embraced Manhattan's laid-back lounge formula.

Tucked away along an eclectic stretch of Van Nuys Boulevard, sandwiched among big-bucks car dealerships, a vintage guitar shop and a shuttered sushi bar, Coda hides behind an all-black facade that sports no sign. The atmospheric word-of-mouth joint is a welcome and much-needed watering hole in vodka-dry Sherman Oaks.

Two years ago, the room was used for the Sherman Oaks Lounge, a misplaced sports bar where bands competed with televised football games and beer-addled frat boys competed for the few girls that stumbled in. Simply put, the place was a stone-cold drag.

Coda, though, is stone-cold cool. Low-lit - almost pitch black, actually, like West Hollywood's sorely missed Ports (where Jones is today) - with a hip, underground following, the bar is bigger than similar spots in Hollywood and Santa Monica. There's a dance floor, a cushy VIP area (with bottle service) and an outdoor patio/smoking sanctuary. The multiethnic neighborhood clientele is as casual and low-key as the ambience.

Good conversation happens at the bar. Especially on Wednesday nights when the Tommy Kay Trio, one of the most exciting local jazz units we've had in town in years, holds forth.

Led by Kay, a world-class jazz guitarist who toils at the music shop next door when he's not doing sessions, this superb group delivers jazz the way it was meant to be - improvised, elegant, compelling, gorgeous. Bassist Clarence Robinson and veteran drummer Clarence Johnston - fascinating characters - round out the trio.

The bar is nicely turned out, with an inviting array of spirits lined up in rows like the master chorale at Disney Hall. Drinks are poured strong, beer is cold (even the draught Guinness) and the staff is solid.

Coda - the Valley's best hipster hideaway. Please don't tell a soul!

Fred Shuster, [phone]

fred.shuster(at)dailynews.com

CODA

Where: 5248 Van Nuys Blvd., Sherman Oaks.

Hours: 9 p.m. to 2 a.m. Tuesday through Saturday.

Atmosphere: Lower East Side hip.

Dress: Black always works here. No jeans, jogging suits or T-shirts, please.

Music: Genuine jazz Wednesdays, hip-hop/dance DJs other nights.

The night to go: Wednesdays for the Tommy Kay Trio.

Parking: Street parking in front. The lot in back is empty, well-lit, and the bar staff even parks there, despite the homeless (and ostensibly harmless) cat hanging out at the Dumpster.

Info: No cover; [phone].

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Photo:

The Tommy Kay Trio - bassist Clarence Robinson, left, drummer Clarence Johnston and guitarist Kay - holds forth Wednesday nights at Coda.

John Lazar/Staff Photograher