Fresh water fish.

Into the twilight of the early morning, a cloud of warm breath escapes. Blue sky and solid earth, a patch of ice near the bank holds our snare. This same river, which greeted us so gaily in the spring, now seizes under foot. So mchow, beneath a crust of white, fish swim merrily; as cager to see our bait, as we are to see them baited. Their slippery bodies bob through the slush like apples in a metal basin, whirling, reeling: buoyant. Once on shore, they writhe, melting snow with the power of hot coals. Their spotted flesh glistens, the curved slice of gills heaves up and down as they slowly surrender.

There is a beauty to fishing perhaps only a forager can understand. To wait patiently, anticipating when a trout might bite or where a morel may reside. Like those rare and seasonal ingredients of food regions worldwide, fresh water fish and fishing itself is a way of life, for pleasure and profit. From the clear, icy waters of the Arctic Circle to the muddy aqua blue of Australia, the inner waterways of fresh water are home to thousands and thousands of fish. Often of more interest to angler than chef, this broad, little known topic, is perhaps worth a second look.

The lake regions of Northern Italy for example regard their fresh water fish and Mediterranean cornucopia with equal respect. During the Italian Renaissance, a dish of lasca from Lake Trasimeno in Umbria was a mainstay at the Pope's Easter feast. Even today the finest restaurants in Italy proudly arrange lavarello, coregone, and fresh water prawns on their menues. In fact, throughout Europe, game fish of Alpine estuaries are treasured in many Michelin restaurants where they herald the fisherman who visits the back door of the kitchen, dripping with good fortune. Likewise, in Canada, fresh water fish are regarded as a prize. Gerry Malone, Vice President of Fresh Water Fish Marketing Corporation (FFMC), one of the largest fresh water fish purveyors in Canada purchases fresh water species including walleye, Canadian pike, whitefish, Northern pike, carp, mullet, and lake trout from ever 2000 commercial fishers. All wild fish are caught in one of over 400 lakes across Manitoba, Saskatchewan, Alberta, and the Nort hwest Territories, and a small part of Ontario. They sell no farmed fish. The fishing is very highly regulated by government officials and the water resources are very well managed. In other words, you can't just go out and haul in as much as you want. Catches are regulated on the basis of sustainability. Mr. Malone explains that his company shares the conservationist attitude, "To get onto restaurant menus and gain acceptability, one of the things we have to do is provide product on a continuing basis, we can't just have it this year and not next year, so we have a very strong interest in the management of the resource. It's very important to the long term sustainability of the industry" He adds, "Canadian lakes are environmentally sound, we are very conscientious here and that's a very big selling point for us in markets like Germany, where the consumers are very environmentally conscious. We have people from Finland visiting us today, and one of the things they are interested in is how the environment is m anaged." Malone's company distributes to countries throughout Western Europe. France, Germany, Sweden, Switzerland, and Poland, but the United States is their biggest market, including states which are familiar with fresh water fish: Minnesota. Wisconsin, the Dakotas, New York, Michigan, Illinois. He also notes that the company is very heavily involved in thc kosher market, "We are certified by the Orthodox Union, this is important because overall, consumers view the "kosher" stamp as a sign of a superior product." Though the FFMC has an obvious following, it is very market specific. "In some markets, fish like walleye remain popular only among certain clientele." Malone points out. "One of the reasons is that walleye is not known, and it a very expensive fish. In Minnesota, which is our largest market, walleye very well known, it stems from the lifestyle; they are outdoors people, they fish recreationally and walleye has a certain allure--its tough to describe but there is something about taking fish from ve ry clean water and putting it into a pan."

Part of the allure for a chef is that, for the most part fresh water fish are very lean, very regional, not commonly found on menus, and perfect for whole preparations. These features provide a wide range of opportunities for a chef. "Fresh water fish tend not to be very fatty." Chef Ming Tsai of Blue Ginger remarks. "So you're either going to add fat by frying it or add fat via a confit." Though the regional and seasonal aspects of fresh water fish suit the cooking style of today's chef, it's not often that it appears on menus. "I think chefs in Colorado can do more with fresh water fish because they have a good quantity of it, but there isn't an abundance of commercial fresh water fish," T sai notes. "I can't order fifty pounds of trout--it would be tough." In Aspen, Colorado, Chef Paul Wade, whose menu features game, fresh water fish, and a wide variety of local produce feels fresh water fish is extremely underrated, "One advantage is that not too many people are focusing on them. You have a real opportun ity to introduce something new to your clientele." Though himself a fan of wild, fresh water fish varieties, Wade understands the dilemma his professional peers face, "When given the opportunity to work with red pike, sable fish, walleye, and wild trout or the plethora of items from the sea, it's easy to understand they opt for ocean catch." Neighboring Colorado Chef Thomas Salamunovich finds working with fresh water fish a welcomed change to his present repertoire. "I can't thank you enough for the fresh water fish topic," he begins. "You get in ruts--we are in a tuna, salmon, and halibut rut; we feature it over and over. It's the constant battle of trying to be artist and chef but giving the consumer what he wants, and the customer wants tuna, the customer wants steak." Salamunovich adds. "It's that slow prodding education to develop the clientele "Something he intends to do by first educating himself.

SOME FRESH WATER FISH

Two words important to the understanding of fresh water fish are anadromous and catadromous. Anadromous refers to any saltwater fish that migrates to fresh water to spawn. Catadromous refers to any fresh water fish that migrates to the ocean to spawn. The fish listed below are catadromous, residing in the regional fresh water ponds, streams, riverbeds, and lakes of the world.

ARCTIC CHAR

Arctic char a close relative of the trout is often found in the cold, clear waters of glacial lakes where it is referred to as blueback, Sunapee, or Quebec red trout. Char is popular among northern Scandinavian countries where it is known as roding or blattjen. Unlike its migratory, seafaring relatives, Arctic char remain in still lake waters. Char can accommodate virtually any preparation though it is especially good when smoked.

BASS

Bass can be found under many colloquial names; at least 44 exist for the largemouth bass according to angler and author Sylvia Bashline. Included among the bass family are: white bass, black bass, striped bass, rock bass, smallmouth bass, largemouth bass, the Guadeloupe bass of Texas, the redeye bass and shoal bass of Alabama, Georgia, and Tennessee, suwannee bass of the Southwest, spotted bass of the South, spot-tailed bass and Murray cod of Australia, and peacock bass of South America. Though some striped bass can spawn in fresh water and make their homes in salt water, there are many "stripers" which remain landlocked. The flavor of each depends greatly on the waters from which they are drawn. For example, the most commonly found largemouth bass from Florida are notoriously sweet due to their diet of fresh water shrimp. Though many black bass varieties are of local importance, only the largemouth, smallmouth, and striped bass retain a true commercial value. Consistently white, lean, and firm, bass is capa ble of shining in virtually any cooking preparation.

CARP

Carp are smart fish, capable of testing bait for an angler's line, and stick to still, shallow mineral rich waters. Any dark meat on a carp fillet is not palatable and should be removed when dressing the fish. Though they are not as popular in North America as they are in Europe, carp are most often used for preparing gefilte fish. Because carp has a high fat content, it is exceptional when pickled or smoked. Any prolonged method of cooking is recommended in order to soften the extensive maze of bones within the flesh before serving.

CATFISH

Catfish are predominantly fresh water dwellers, only two species are considered sea-faring: the gafftopsail and the hardead. Though there are some 28 species, ranging in size from 10-inches to a record 16 1/2. foot wels found in Europe and Russia, the most prolific and commercially desirable fish are the channel and blue varieties, most of which are "pan size." The clean flavors of farm raised catfish yield not only a more flavorful product but a more economically sound one as well. Five thousand pounds of catfish can be harvested on a one-acre pond. The unique appearance, tender meat, and elementary bone structure make catfish an ideal candidate for whole preparations, especially when deep-fried.

EEL

American and European eels unlike conger eels, make for good eating. Every year fresh water eels world-wide make a pilgrimage to the Sargasso Sea (King 272) in the North Atlantic. This migration towards saltwater, in order to spawn, occurs in all catadromous species. Once the cycle is complete, mature eels return to the fresh waters of their homeland, a process, which may take as long as three years. Though not a mainstay in many American restaurants, eel is highly revered by Japanese, Italian, French, and Belgian chefs during the winter holiday season. Because the meat is very high in fat it takes beautifully to smoking preparations. In Europe, thread-like baby eels, or angulas as they are called in Spain are fried, soused with a healthy dose of lemon, and served as a delicate tapas.

GRAYLING

Grayling was once a mainstay of the Michigan waterways of Lake Huron in the late 1800s and a popular menu item in Chicago. Though not a fish readily found in the market today, it bears mentioning if only as a historical note. This awesome game fish of the lush pine forest waterways of North America and Central Europe, the grayling quickly thinned out as industry moved in. It was once considered a fish of unparalleled flavor and perfume. Referred to as ombre, and asche in Europe it is often found only on the menu of some small family run inns.

PANFISH

Panfish include a wide range of "pan-sized" fish from the bass and sunfish family; they include: bluegill, several sunfish species, several small bass species, and black and white crappies. Most panfish are found throughout the Florida mainland and the Florida Keys. As their name implies, these fish are small game catch--just big enough to coat with breadcrumbs or cornmeal and pan fry which is the best way to prepare these fish. Most panfish are considered of good eating quality but the spotted sunfish and redbreast sunfish are highly regarded; the lean white flesh has a subtle sweetness.

PAVON

Pavon are a specialty of South America, surviving miraculously among piranhas, which share their waters. Similar in taste and texture to bass, pavon are sold under a wide variety of market names including tucunare. Considered to be one of the finest fresh water fish in the world, pavon even appeared on the menu at the "21 Club" in Manhattan in 1966.

PERCH

Perch are generally subdivided into two categories: northern perch and warm-climate perch (Bailey 62). Northern perch are often distinguished as a "yellow perch" and European perch. Among the warm water perch are Australia's barramundi and Nile perch of Egypt. The flesh of yellow perch is very firm and white and provides ample sport for those who like to ice fish.

PIKE

Pike, of the six types of pike found, only northern pike and muskellunge retain any culinary value. Their ravenous appetite for fellow fish makes them one of the largest fresh water species. These lean fish take to cold arctic waters providing for a substantial commercial industry. Pike is best known for the classical French preparation of quenelles de broche and in Scandinavian where it is smoked. Though the numerous bones can sometimes prove tedious when dressing the fish, any pike over four pounds is exempt from this problem. The lean flesh is suitable to poaching, baking, and smoking preparations.

PRAWNS

Prawns found in fresh water are numerous of which the colossal Malaysian prawn is perhaps a favorite. Though they live their lives in fresh water, they are considered catadromous, meaning they migrate to saltwater in order to spawn.

SUCKERS

Suckers include about 57 species, including blue suckers, carpsuckers, longnose suckers, redhorse suckers, spotted suckers, and buffalos making up one of the largest fresh water fish families in North America. Their abundance makes them very economical. Buffalofish are the biggest of the sucker family, reaching weights upwards of 70 pounds. Their large size is ideal for cooks who wish to tackle the intricate skeletal structure. While buffalofish are found predominantly in the Mississippi River Valley, other, smaller sucker varieties dwell in the Great Lakes and Northern Canada. Smallmouth buffalo are esteemed above all suckers from a culinary standpoint. The sucker's lean, white flesh suits almost any cooking preparation.

TILAPIA

Tilapia, also known as sunshine snapper and cherry snapper, are capable of living in saltwater but have been cultivated in fresh water for centuries as they flourish in water temperatures ranging between 60-80 degrees. Because of their firm texture, pan size, mild flavor, and low fat content, tilapia is quite versatile in the kitchen.

TROUT

Trout encompasses a wide range of fish: rainbow, cutthroat, golden, brook, brown, and lake trout. All are considered fresh water fish and as such are unique unto themselves. The flesh of each variety ranges greatly from snow white to vibrant red depending on its diet. Brook trout flourish in the icy cold waters of Canada, often reaching weights in excess of four pounds (Bashline 101). It is the brook trout that is considered the superior trout among culinarians. In general, cold running bodies of water produce the most succulent and prized trout meat. Though lake trout are exclusive to the cold waters of Canada and the northeastern United States, their high fat content makes them less appealing. However at weights of 24 pounds, their size makes them a challenge to any fisherman and a good bet in the smoker. The larger the lake trout, the more pronounced the flavors. Golden trout, found only at elevations above 8,000 feet, are a delicacy of the California, Wyoming, and Washington state regions. These fish are especially good when smoked.

WALLFYT

Walleye, often dubbed walleye pike, are not a pike at all but a member of the perch family. European walleye are often referred to as "pike perch," sandre, or zander. Over two hundred years ago walleye were stocked in the rivers of Pennsylvania and became so prolific, they were referred to as "Susquehanna salmon." When choosing a walleye at market don't let this foggy-eyed fish mislead you into believing it is not fresh. Because the walleye dwell in dark waters, the opaque color enables better vision. Its pristine white, thick, and sweetly flavored flesh makes it an undeniable favorite in commercial markets. Unlike a pike, the walleye has a simple bone structure, making the ease of dressing and good yield desirable to chefs. The flavor of the flesh is similar to that of yellow perch, very mild. It lends itself to virtually any preparation, especially frying.

WHITEFISH

Whitefish are related to salmon, however they remain loyal to the fresh water lakes of Canada. White fish thrive in the cold waters of New England and the Great Lakes where it is fished through ice. Marketed as chub, cisco, or tullibee, both the roe and fillets of this winter fish are prized worldwide. Kalakukko, a specialty of Finland combines small whitefish and salt pork in a rye dough casing. As the fish bakes, the bones soften rendering them edible. Rich in oil, whitefish are ideal for smoking preparations.

SPECIES

              REGION                   FLESH / FLAVOR

Arctic Char   Canada, Northern         white, pink,
              United States, & Europe  orange, red

Bass          North America, South     white
              America, & Australia

              North America,           dark with
Carp          Europe, & Asia           moderate fat

Catfish       Worldwide                white, pink

Eel           North America & Europe   dark & fatty

Grayling      Canada, Alaska, &        white & lean
              Europe

Lake Herring  North central United     dark with
              States                   moderate fat

Panfish       North America            white & lean

Pavon         Central & South America  cream white & lean

Perch         Worldwide                white & lean

Pike          Worldwide                white & lean

Prawns        Worldwide                white & lean

Sucker        North America            white & lean

Tilapia       Worldwide                white & lean

Trout         North America, South     white, pink, red, &
              America, & Europe        lean to fatty

Walleye       North America            white & lean

Whitefish     Worldwide                white & lean to fatty

              TEXTURE

Arctic Char   mild & flaky-firm


Bass          mild-sweet & flasky-firm


              mild & meaty
Carp

Catfish       sweet & firm

Eel           robust & meaty

Grayling      mild & firm


Lake Herring  strong & meaty


Panfish       mild & delicate

Pavon         mild & firm

Perch         mild & flaky

Pike          sweet & firm

Prawns        sweet & meaty

Sucker        sweet & firm

Tilapia       mild & firm

Trout         mild & flaky


Walleye       mild & flaky

Whitefish     mild-sweet & flaky

RELATED ARTICLE: MING TSAI

Blue Ginger

Wellesley, Massachusetts

Tsai grew up in Dayton, Ohio, working in his mom's restaurant the Mandarin Kitchen serving authentic Beijing or Mandarin fast food. Tsai was the manager, though he remembers the duties included among his cooking responsibilities, bussing tables and washing dishes. "I was also very fortunate to have parents who took us traveling when we were kids," reflects Tsai. "We got to experience a lot of good food early on in life." In addition to teaching his children through experience, Tsai's father impressed upon them the importance of education. Tsai attended the Ivy League alma mater of his father, and grandfather. During his summer breaks from Yale, Tsai lived with family friends in Paris. He apprenticed in the local boulangerie and took classes at Le Cordon Bleu. By the end of his sophomore year he knew the culinary profession was for him, "What really got me going at Le Cordon Bleu were the pastries, pastry cream, and ice cream; there is nothing in Chinese--or any Asian cooking like it and I decided I needed to learn more about French food." Three days after Tsai's graduation from Yale, he returned to Paris as a full fledged apprentice. "My first job was at Fauchon as a 'pastry pion' under Pierre Herme and his staff of twenty-six, Tsai muses. "I was kind of a novelty there because they didn't have a lot of six-foot Chinese cooks that could speak French." While at Fauchon he took a night job at Natacha, here he developed the beginning of his 'East meets West' style. Jean Marc, the chef was very open to the infusion of Asian ingredients in the kitchen, which Tsai gladly supplied after his daily trips to the market. Tsai's first creation to appear on the Natacha menu was a buerre rouge, in which the traditional wine and butter sauce was accented with shallots, ginger, and fermented black beans. Tsai believes learning traditional French techniques and understanding Asian ingredients helped him form unique flavors and presentations, "Escoffier is the book I look at most when I want to take a recipe to the next level." A fter two years, Tsai had traveled France, mastered the French kitchen, and found his own cuisine. He returned to the States, not to open a restaurant, but to attend Cornell University for his masters in Hotel Administration. Upon graduation, he accepted an Assistant Food and Beverage Director position at The Hotel Intercontinental, Chicago. "The most important thing I learned was how to manage 160 people," Tsai explains. "I found that employees respond to you the most when you get your hands dirty." But, an opportunity to work with Ken Hom of Silks in San Francisco enticed him back into the kitchen. "Ken is the father of East-West cuisine in my opinion ,"Tsai declares.

During a family trip to Europe, ten year old Ming Tsai experienced fine dining in a French restaurant for the first time. "When we walked in there was a Frankenstein looking guy in a coat to welcome you. Everyone spoke French," Tsai recalls with a laugh. "They seated us in the garden at a table with a white cloth; it was very surreal. The waiter came over and offered us water, then offered us wine. He actually poured wine for me, which he diluted with water and prepared some of our dishes tableside. The maitre d' treated me like an adult, asking if I would like more of this or more of that ... it just blew me away." And, much like the towering maitre d' in the big coat, Tsai welcomes his dinner guests with open arms and a genuine smile, as does his staff. Good karma abounds at Blue Ginger. The French restaurant in Belgium may have been a far cry from the family style Chinese meals of Tsai's childhood home, but somehow he found something similar in the two, "I think Chinese and French are the real cuisines of the world. I love Thai and Italian, but the Chinese and French take food very seriously; they are the cuisines I grew up with."

"He is not a typical restaurant chef, but a walking encyclopedia. He taught me how to cook Peking duck using traditional Chinese techniques." While working at Santacafe in Santa Fe Tsai developed his ideas further by creating an East-Southwest menu. Meanwhile his true dream was taking shape and he left New Mexico to pursue ownership. "I set out to find a city that was home to a good Chinatown, capable of accepting East-West cuisine, and that provided a good quality of life for my family. Eventually, Wellesley appeared as the only real choice. Located in a quiet, affluent suburb of Boston, the town is surrounded by educated, curious diners, economically stable and close enough to the city to keep a pulse on the marketplace. As the restaurant was coming together, his relationship with the TV Food Network was developing and plans for an East-West show were launched. By 1998, Blue Ginger, East Meets West with Ming Tsai, and a signed book deal all flourished. "I learned at an early age, that you're only as good a s the people you work with, my dad had a great saying, 'It doesn't matter what your superiors think of you it's what your subordinates and peers think that matters.' All my guys get a slice of the profits at the end of year. I trust my chefs; they know what I'm after. I make sure when I'm in town I'm at the restaurant, and I taste everything. I develop the recipes and test them, not to say I have to be the sole creator of the menu, but I train the cooks well to understand and help create and they're happy too."

Paul Wade

It's all about highs and lows for Executive Chef Paul Wade who has made his career in some of the finest mountain top lodges and secluded beach resorts in the world. Wade's training he professes has been, "at the school of hard knocks. "At the age of 16, he left home and worked in a commercial bakery as the clean up kid. Slowly but surely, he was trained, learning how to make dough, how to roll and knead dough, how to use the equipment. "It was kind of like an apprenticeship, but it was also really cheap labor for them," Wade recalls of his formidable years in northern California. His first job on the line was at The Sonoma Mission Inn. Under Chef Larry Albert, formerly of the River Cafe, he worked his way up to sous chef. He crossed the valley to the blossoming food and wine trail of Napa, accepting posts at thc Meadowood resort, Auberge du Soleil, and Mustard's Grill. "I worked for Cindy Pawlcyn who had traveled in China and all over, I was completely inspired by the techniques I picked up from her," Wade notes. "So, I put my feelers out and low and behold was off to the Hawaiian Islands," opting to move west rater than cast like most of his peers. Wade made a home on the islands for eight years, all the while doing jaunts in Southeast Asia and Japan. "Once you've been there long enough, you integrate with the real culture beneath the 'resortism' of Hawaii," he continues, "much of which is tied into an influx of Portuguese, Vietnamese, Thai, Filipinos, and lots of Japanese." These cultures formed Pacific Rim cooking. Though invigorated by the climate and culture Wade left his post as Chef de Cuisine of the Four Seasons Maui for an Executive Chef position in Beaver Creek, Colorado. Always one to seek an agreeable environment, Wade packed his bags after three years in Colorado. "I missed the ocean so I went to Mystic, an island off the coast of St. Vincent, in the Antillies. Sandwiched between Venezuela and Barbados was the 25 suites and gourmet dining service of the Cotton House. As Food and Beverage Director a nd Executive Chef of a Relais and Chateaux property, Wade's role was to provide for every whim a guest could imagine. He stayed until his work visa was up and returned to the States--back to Colorado because he "missed the mountains." Last year, prestigious Relais & Chateaux property, The Inn at Little Nell, hired Wade to step in as Executive Chef. Though he remains undecided about where to live, his cooking style is well focused. In fact, by the looks of Wade's menu, one would never know the trails he's traveled. Wade features game, freshwater fish, and a wide variety of local produce and greens, very Alpine in nature. "I find my food is slowly simplifying as I hit my 40s," he admits. The two key ingredients which follow him high and low, are truffle oil and artisanal salts, an ingredient he embraced during his years in Hawaii. "Salt is part of the Hawaiian custom, it comes from old Chinese philosophy. Among the many salts he employs are Peruvian pink salt, black salt from Tahiti, red salt from Kona, and Nor wegian smoked salt, a Celtic tradition in which salt is spread out and smoked in limestone caves near the ocean. After years of taking charge of many different kitchens, his managing style has also matured, "I find 'slow and steady wins the race.' I try not to traumatize people by changing things overnight," Wade affirms. "It's important they feel secure." The most important professional rule in Wade's kitchen is, "Integrity and respect for others; it builds the team. The only room for ego in this kitchen is the guest."

THOMAS SALAMUNOVICH

A 10,000 square food retreat at the base of Vail Mountain is not a bad place to hang your hat. Chef/Owner Thomas Salamunovich and his wife Nancy Sweeney have made a home of Larkspur restaurant and market where they prepare gourmet dinners and ready-made gourmet feasts for Vail's many seasonal guests. Salamunovich laughingly remembers his call to the Rocky Mountains, "I went to Vail to be a ski bum. I found a restaurant job and fell in love with food instantly." After two years on the line, Salamunovich went to the California Culinary Academy, graduating in 1983. "The food scene was just starting," he recalls. "Spago wasn't even open. There was just Chez Panisse and a chef named Jeremiah Tower. People were just getting into organics and California cuisine had yet to be fully defined." Through friends at the California Culinary Academy and a few business contacts, Salamunovich was able to arrange for several once-in-a-lifetime stages in France working with Paul Bocuse and Lucas Carton, both 3-star Michelin rest aurants in France and Elysee Lenotre, a 2-star Michelin restaurant in Paris as well as the bakery of international fame, Poilane Boulangerie. He also worked at a small bistro in the country with no stars. "The restaurant in the country was the most noble experience. I worked with a man who taught me to peel apples to Tchaikovsky and bone lamb to Ravel, his passion was through the roof with everything he did," Salamunovich muses. "The grandmother would come in with an apron full of cepes, a hunter could come in and sling a whole venison on the table for us to butcher." After a year or so, Salamunovich got tired of working for free and found a job in a hip little bistro under the Eiffel Tower. Ready to climb his way up the ladder he returned to the United States to pay his dues in San Francisco's fledging hot spots. lie then landed a job at the cutting edge restaurant, Stars and stayed for two years. Wanting to stretch his wings he returned to Vail for a job at Sweet Basi, which had a good national reputation a t the time. During his seven years at the restaurant he built his professional reputation and cooking style. It was then time for him to write the menus.

Salamunovich often reflects on the cuisine of his peers, for inspiration, "One of my favorite books is Thomas Keller's French Laundry book, and its clean minimalist." Less is more: Salamunovich's motto. Many of the dishes at Larkspur are solid French in style, simple and elegant, employing two or three ingredients. The market is yet another project, here guests can stop by for high-end take out, or homemade breads, rotisserie, cheese, and pastries. The market allows Salamunovich to remain involved with his clientele. For some Chef/Owners it's all about business, for others, it's all about art, craft, and business. Salamunovich is very much an owner who is aware of the role business plays in sustaining his passion. He professes it's all about surrounding himself with good people and including them in the success of the business. "We analyze the numbers everyday. I show the staff, to teach them, and to empower them; the more they know the more they care."

(Serves 6)

Asian Char Confit with Foie Gras Chawan Mushi

Skin of 6 4-ounce arctic char; fillets reserved separately (*)

For the arctic char skin:

2 tablespoons grapeseed oil

Salt and pepper to taste

For the balsamic syrup:

1 cup balsamic vinegar

1/4 cup Chinese black vinegar (**)

For the chutney:

1 tablespoon grapeseed oil

2 red onions, peeled and diced

1/4 cup sake

3 tablespoons granulated sugar

1/2 cup Umeboshi plums, pitted and chopped (***)

Juice of 1 lemon

Salt and white pepper to taste

For the roulade:

1 bunch spinach leaves, blanched and chopped

1/4 cup shiso leaves, blanched and chopped

1/2 tablespoon sesame seed oil

Juice of 1/2 lemon

1 teaspoon Kikkoman[R] soy sauce

Salt and white pepper to taste

For the dashi broth:

1 quart water

1 small sheet konbu, wiped with a damp cloth (****)

1/2 cup bonito flakes

For the chawan mushi:

8 ounces foie gras

3 eggs

2 cups reserved dashi broth

1 teaspoon Kikkoman[R] soy sauce

Salt and pepper to taste

For the arctic char:

1/2 cup sea salt

Reserved arctic char

1/2 cup brown sugar

2 tablespoons coarse ground fennel seeds

2 tablespoons coarse ground coriander seeds

2 tablespoons Chinese cinnamon powder (*****)

1 tablespoon coarse ground white peppercorns

1 tablespoon coarse ground Szechwan peppercorns

1 teaspoon clove powder

4 cups grapeseed oil

4 shallots, peeled and minced

1 tablespoon seasame oil

For the garnish:

Sesame seeds, toasted

(*.) Available through Captain Marden's at [phone].

(**.) Available in Asian markets.

(***.) Umeboshi plums are dried and pickled. Red shiso is added for color and flavor. They are a popular accompaniment to Japanese meals. Available in Asian markets.

(****.) Konbu is a type of dried seaweed. Available in Asian markets.

(*****.) Available in Asian markets.

Note: Chawan mushi is a Japanese steamed pudding consisting of eggs and dashi broth.

For the arctic char skin, preheat the oven to 200 degrees. Place the skin on a parchment-lined sheet pan, brush with the oil, season, and cover with an additional sheet of parchment paper. Place in the oven until crisp, about three hours. Remove from the heat and set aside keeping warm.

For the balsamic syrup, in a medium saucepan, bring the balsamic vinegar and black vinegar to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer until reduced by three-quarters, about 10 minutes. Remove from the heat, strain through a fine mesh sieve, and set aside to cool.

For the chutney, in a medium saute pan, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the onions and saute until translucent. Add the sugar and de-glaze with sake. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat and simmer until reduced by three-quarters, about three minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool. Add the plums and lemon juice and mix to combine. Season and set aside.

For the roulade, in a medium howl, whisk together all of the ingredients. Season and set aside for 20 minutes. Place a bamboo mat on a flat work surface and cover with plastic wrap. Spoon one-third of the spinach onto the mat and roll to shape, pressing to seal. Transfer to a cutting board, slice on the bias, and place on a parchment-lined sheet pan. Repeat with the remaining spinach and set aside.

For the dashi broth, in a medium saucepan over medium heat, bring the water and konbu to a boil. Remove from the heat and discard the konbu. Return the water to medium heat, add the bonito flakes, and simmer until the water reaches a boil. Remove from the heat and set aside for two minutes skimming occasionally. Strain through a fine mesh sieve, discard the bonito flakes, and set aside.

For the chawan mushi, preheat the oven to 375 degrees. In the bowl of a food processor fitted with the metal blade attachment, combine the foie gras and eggs and puree until smooth, about one minute. Transfer the mix to a medium bowl and add the dashi and soy sauce. Whisk to combine, season, and, using a ladle, remove any surface bubbles. Pour some of the foie gras mixture onto the bottom of six oven-proof soup plates. Place in a hot water bath and cover with aluminum foil. Place in the oven for five minutes. Adjust the heat to 325 degrees and bake until set, about 20 minutes. Remove from the heat, remove from the water bath, and set aside keeping warm.

For the arctic char, preheat the oven to 130 degrees. In a medium bowl, mix together the salt, brown sugar, fennel, coriander, cinnamon, white pepper, Szechuan peppercorns, and clove powder. Add the shallots and mix to combine. Coat the char fillets on both sides with spice mix, place on a parchment-lined sheet pan, and set aside in the refrigerator for 30 minutes. Using a clean cloth, brush off any excess coating. In a large, deep saute pan, heat the grapeseed and sesame oil over medium-high heat to 130 degrees. Place the char fillets in the pan and simmer on both sides until desired doneness, about eight minutes. Remove from the heat, using a slotted spoon, transfer the char to a paper towel-lined sheet pan, and set aside keeping warm.

To serve, set an arctic char fillet, arctic char skin, spinach, and chutney in the center of a chawan mushi coated plate. Drizzle the dish with balsamic syrup and garnish with sesame seeds.

Whole Striped Bass with Mango and Passion Fruit Salsa

ingredients

For the chili oil:

2 tablespoons chili powder

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1/4 teaspoon salt

3/4 cup vegetable oil

For the salsa:

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

1 red onion, peeled and diced

1-inch piece ginger, peeled and minced

2 serrano chilies, stemmed and minced

1 mango, peeled and diced

1 small pineapple, peeled, cored, and diced

1/4 cup Myers's[R] rum

Juice of 2 passion fruit

Juice of 2 oranges

1/2 bunch mint, stemmed and minced

For the rice:

1 cup coconut milk, reduced by half

1 tablespoon turbinado sugar

Juice of 1 lime

3 cups steamed sweet rice (*)

1/3 cup toasted coconut flakes

1 tablespoon chopped chives

1/2 pound ground pork butt

2 sprigs oregano, stemmed and minced

1/2 bunch thyume, stemmed and minced

4 cloves garlic, peeled and minced

1 bunch cilantro, stemmed and minced

1 teaspoon mirin (**)

1 tablespoon rice vinegar

1 tablespoon Korean chili flakes (*)

1 tablespoon granulated sugar

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon pepper

2 banana leaves

For the bass:

3 cups rice flour

2 whole striped bass, scored (***)

Pink Hawaiian sea salt and pepper to taste (***)

For the dish:

Toasted coconut flakes

For the garnish:

Fried taro root strips

(*) Available in Asian markets.

(**) Mirin is a sweet rice cooking wine. Available in Asian markets.

(***) Available through Captain Marden's at [phone].

(****) Available through Cooking School of Aspen at [phone].

Note: The taro root was cut using a rotating vegetable slicer. Available through most restaurant supply companies.

For the chili oil, in a medium saute pan over medium heat, combine the chili powder, cumin, and salt and saute until the mixture begins to smoke. Add the oil and whisk to combine. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool overnight. Using a ladle, transfer the top layer of oil to a clean bowl, reserve, and discard any sediment in the pan.

For the salsa, in a large saucepan, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the onion, ginger, and chilies and saute until translucent. Add the mango and pineapple and saute until soft, about three minutes. Add the rum and simmer until reduced by half, about five minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool. Add the mint and mix to combine. Season and set aside.

For the rice, prepare a hot steamer. In a medium bowl, combine the cocount milk, sugar, lime juice, rice, cocount flakes, and chives, gently stir to combine, and set aside. In a medium bowl, mix together the pork butt, oregano, thyme, garlic, cilantro, mirin, rice vinegar, chili flakes, sugar salt and pepper and set aside. Place the banana leaves on a flat work surface and spoon a thin layer of rice in the center of each. Spoon some of the pork mix on top and cover with the remaining rice. Fold the leaves to close and place, seam side down, in the steamer until the pork is cooked, about 30 minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside keeping warm.

For the bass, preheat the fryer to 350 degrees. Season the bass and coat with the rice flour. Place in the fryer until light brown, about eight minutes. Remove from the heat and place on a paper towel-lined sheet pan to drain. Season and set aside keeping warm.

To serve, open a banana leaf of rice and pork and place in the center of a plate. Place a striped bass and some salsa on top, drizzle the dish with chili oil and coconut flakes, and garnish with taro root.

Panko Crusted Catfish with Grilled Maitake Mushrooms

(Serves 6)

Polish Hill

Grosset

Clare Valley, Australia 1999

ingredients

For the basil oil:

2 cups Thai basil leaves, boiled, shocked, and drained

1 cup spinach leaves, boiled, shocked, and drained

1 cup canola oil

1/2 teaspoon salt

For the maitake:

6 2-inch maitake mushrooms (*)

1/2 cup grapeseed oil

Salt and black pepper to taste

For the salad:

1 tablespoon grapeseed oil

2 bunches garlic chives, cut into 1/2-inch strips

1/4 cup rice vinegar

1 tablespoon sesame oil

Salt and pepper to taste

For the sauce:

2 tablespoons grapeseed oil

3 tablespoons minced garlic

1-inch piece ginger, peeled and minced

2 tablespoons fermented black beans, rinsed, drained, and chopped

1/3 cup shaoxing (**)

1 tablespoon sambal olek (***)

1 cup chicken stock

1/4 tablespoon cornstarch dissolved in 1/4 tablespoon water

2 tomatoes, diced

1/2 cup Thai basil leaves

1 tablespoon chopped scallions, green parts only

Salt and pepper to taste

For the catfish:

Grapeseed oil as needed

2 cups all-purpose flour

4 eggs, beaten

2 cups panko breadcrumbs

30 1 1/2- ounce fresh water catfish fillets (****)

Salt and pepper to taste

For the garnish:

Whole garlic chives

Thai basil leaves and sprigs

(*.) Available through Yukiguni Maitake

Corporation of America at [phone] or at www.yukigunimaitake.com.

(**.) Shaoxing, shao-hsing, or shao hing is a dark rice wine from China. Available in Asian markets.

(***.) Sambal olek is a very spicy prepared chili paste. Available in Asian markets.

(****.) Available through Captain Marden's at [phone].

---------For the basil oil, in a commercial blender, combine all of the ingredients. Blend until smooth, about three minutes and set aside.

For the maitake, prepare a hot grill. Brush the maitake with the oil and season. Grill on both sides to mark, about three minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside keeping warm.

For the salad, in a wok, heat the grapeseed oil over high heat. Add the chives and saute for 30 seconds. Remove from the heat and transfer to a medium bowl. Add the vinegar and sesame oil. Toss to combine, season, and set aside keeping warm.

For the sauce, in a large wok, heat the grapeseed oil over medium heat. Add the garlic, ginger, and black beans and saute until translucent. Add the sambal and de-glaze with the shaoxing. Simmer until reduced by half, about three minutes. Add the chicken stock and simmer until reduced by half, about five minutes. Add the cornstarch in a steady stream, whisking constantly, and return to a boil, stirring often. Add the tomatoes, basil, and scallions and simmer until warmed through. Remove from the heat, season, and set aside keeping warm.

For the catfish, heat a large wok, filled one-third of the way with grapeseed oil, to 375 degrees. Place the flour, eggs, and panko breadcrumbs in three separate bowls. Season the catfish and dredge in flour, patting off any excess. Dip in the eggs and liberally coat with breadcrumbs. Place in the wok and fry until golden brown, about four minutes. Using a slotted metal spatula, transfer the catfish to a paper towel-lined sheet pan to drain. Season and setaside keeping warm.

To serve, spoon some sauce onto the center of a plate and set some salad and a maitake mushroom in the center. Arrange some catfish fillets on top, drizzle the dish with basil oil, and garnish with garlic chives and Thai basil.

Tempura Trout Maki Sushi with Mirin Leek Fondue

(Serves 6)

For the wasabi oil:

1/2 cup wasabi powder

2 tablespoons mirin

2 teaspoons granulated sugar

1/2 cup water

1/2 cup vegetable oil

For the soy syrup:

2 cups soy sauce

1/2 cup brown sugar

Juice of 1 lime

For the leek fondue:

2 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened

6 leeks, finely chopped

2 cloves gralic, peeled and minced

1/2 cup mirin

Salt and white pepper to taste

For the tempura batter:

2 cup rice flour

2 cups all purpose flour

2 cups sparkling water, chilled

1 egg yolk

Salt to taste

For the trout:

1/2 sheets yaki nori (**)

6 whole fresh water golden trout, back bone removed, head and tail on (***)

4 cups cooked sushi rice

1 tablespoon togarashi spice (****)

Reserved leeks

1 tablespoon wasabi tobiko

1 tablespoon black tobiko

Salt and pepper to taste

For the tobiko:

1/4 cup wasabi tobiko

For the dish:

1/4 cup black tobiko

Pickled ginger

Radish sprouts

(*.) Mirin is a sweet rice cooking wine. Available in Asian markets.

(**.) Yaki nori is a type of seaweed. Available in Asian markets.

(***.) Available through Captain Marden's at [phone].

(****.) Togarshi is a spicy Japanese seasoning made with chili pepper. Available in Asian markets.

For the wasabi oil, in a small bowl, combine the wasabi powder, mirin, and sugar and whisk to combine. Add the water whisking to combine. The mixture should have the consistency of heavy cream. Add the oil, whisk to combine, and set aside for 10 minutes.

For the soy syrup, in a medium saucepan over medium heat, bring all of the ingredients to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer until reduced by three-quarters, about 30 minutes. Remove from the heat, strain through a fine mesh sieve, and setaside to cool.

For the leek fondue, in a medium saucepan, melt on tablespoon of the butter over medium heat. Add the leeks and garlic and saute until translucent. De-glaze with mirin and simmer until reduced by three-quarters, about 10 minutes. Add the remaining butter, whisk to combine, season, and set aside to cool.

For the tempura batter, in a large bowl, combine all of the ingredients. Whisk until just combined and set aside for 10 minutes.

For the trout, place the trout, skin-side-down on a flat work surface. Season and spread a 1/4-inch layer of rice into the cavity of the trout and sprinkle with some Togarashi spice. Spread a thin layer of leeks on top of the rice and sprinkle with some wasabi tobiko and black tobiko. Roll the trout into its natural shape. Place two sheets of nori, shiny-side down, on a flat work surface and place a whole trout on top, allowing the head and tail to fall past the edge of the nori sheet. Roll the trout to enclose, seal the edges with water, and place on a parchment-lined sheet pan. Repeat with the remaining trout and set aside to rest for 10 minutes.

For the tobiko in a medium bowl, mix together the black tobiko and wasabi tobiko and set aside.

To finish the trout, preheat the fryer to 350 degrees. Dip the trout in fem pura batter and place in the fryer for six minutes. Remove from the heat plate on a paper towel-lined sheet pan to drain and season. Transfer in a cutting board cut into thin slices and setaside keeping warm.

To serve place a whole sliced trout in the center of a plate and drizzle some soy syrup and wasabi oil to one side. Accompany with black tobiko, wasabi tobiko, pickled ginger, and radish sprouts.

Seard Red Perch with Panzanella Salad and Sweet Pea Puree (serves 6)

For the lobster oil:

2 lobster bodies

2 cups grapeseed oil

For the sweet pea puree:

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

6 shallots, peeled and minced

3 cloves garlic, peeled and minced

2 cups dark chicken stock

4 cups English peas, blanched

1/4 cup chopped parsley leaves

3 sprigs thyme, stemmed

4 ounces unsalted butter, chilled

1 tablespoon white traffic oil

1/2 ounce chopped white truffles

Salt and pepper to taste

For the panzanella salad:

3 heirloom tomatoes, diced

3 slices ciabatta bread, diced

1/4 bunch basil, stemmed and chopped

PAUL WADE

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

2 cloves garlic, peeled minced, and toasted

1 teaspoon minced capers

Zest of 1 lemon

Salt and pepper to taste

For the red perch:

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

12 4-ounce red perch fillets*

For the lobster oil, in a medium saucepan heat 1/2 cup of the grapeseed oil over medium heat. Add the lobster and sear until bright red, about five minutes,. Remove from the heat and transfer the mixture to a food processor fitted with the metal blade attachment. Pulse to crush the lobster bodies, about three minutes. Transfer to a medium saucepan over medium heat. Add the remaining oil and simmer until warm. Remove from the heat and set aside overnight. Strain through a fine mesh sieve, discard the solids, and reserve the oil.

Salt and pepper to taste

For the dish:

Fried artichoke heart strips

Fried zucchini blossoms

Fava beans, peeled and blanched

* Available through Mountain Valley

Seafood at [phone].

For the sweet pea purce, in a medium saucepan, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the shallots and garlic and saute until translucent. Add the chicken stock and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer for 20 minutes. Remove from the heat and transfer to a commercial blender. Add the peas, parsley, butter, truffle oil, and truffles in several stages and pulse to form a smooth puree. Transfer to a bowl, season, and set aside keeping warm.

For the panzanella salad, in a medium bowl, toss together all of the ingredients. Season and set aside.

For the red perch, the a medium saute pan, heat the oil over medium heat. Season and sear the red perch on both sides until desired doneness. Remove from the heat and set aside keeping warm.

To serve, place a 2-inch ring mold in the center of a plate, fill with some panzanella salad and fava beans, and remove the mold. Place two perch fillets on top. Drizzle some lobster oil and sweet pea puree around the dish and garnish with fried arthicoke strips and zucchini blossoms.

Seared Walleye with a Pot-au-Feu of Abalone and Fresh Water Shrimp

(Serves 6)

ingredients

For the lobster and tomato broth:

1 tablespoon olive oil

6 ounces shrimp shells

4 lobster bodies

2 onions, peeled and chopped

2 carrots, peeled and chopped

2 stalks celery, chopped

1 small bulb fennel, chopped

2 shallots, peeled and minced

3 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped

3 sprigs thyme

3 sprigs tarragon

2 teaspoons curry powder

1/2 cup tomato paste

2 cups Sauvignon Blanc

1 quart lobster stock

1 1/2 quarts tomato puree

Salt and pepper to taste

For the crostini:

12 cloves garlic, roasted, peeled, and chopped

1/4 teaspoon Dijon mustard

Juice of 1/2 lemon

1 cup mayonnaise

1/4 cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese

6 thin baguette slices

Salt and pepper to taste

For the pot-au-feu:

1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil

6 fresh water shrimp, heads on, peeled, and de-veined (*)

12 baby abalone, meat set aside in the refrigerator for 24 hours and scored

1 cup Sauvignon Blanc

1 shallot, peeled and minced

Reserved lobster and tomato broth

2 ounces unsalted butter

Salt and pepper to taste

For the ravioli:

1 Idaho potato, peeled and cut into 12 paper-thin slices

6 ounces mascarpone cheese, seasoned with salt and pepper

12 chervil leaves

1/4 cup rockweed (**)

1/4 cup olive oil

Salt and pepper to taste

For the walleye:

3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

6 4-ounce walleye fillets (**)

Salt and pepper to taste

For the dish:

Abalone shells

For the garnish:

Chervil leaves

(**.) Available through Mountain Valley Seafood at [phone].

(*.) Available through Browne Trading at [phone].

Note: Abalone should be set aside to rest for one day to relax the meat.

directions

For the lobster and tomato broth, in a large saucepan, heat the oil over medium heat, add the shrimp and lobster bodies, and saute until bright red, about five minutes. Add the onions, carrots, celery, fennel, shallots, garlic, thyme, tarragon, and curry powder and saute until translucent. Add the tomato paste and simmer until the vegetables are golden brown, about five minutes. De-glaze with the wine and lobster stock. Add the tomato puree and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer until reduced by half, about one hour. Remove from the heat, strain through a medium mesh sieve, and discard the solids. Transfer the broth to a medium saucepan over medium heat, bring to a simmer, and maintain the heat until reduced by half, about 30 minutes. Remove from the heat, transfer to a blender, and blend until smooth, about three minutes. Season and reserve keeping warm.

For the crostini, preheat the broiler to 400 degrees. In a medium bowl, whisk together the garlic, mustard, lemon juice mayonnaise, and cheese. Senson and set aside. Place the baguette slices on a sheet pan and spread each with some garlic mix. Place under the broiler and toast until golden brown. Remove from the heat and set aside keeping warm.

For the pot-au-feu, in a large saucepan heat the oil over medium heat. Season and sear the shrimp and abalone on each side for 15 seconds. Add the wine, shallot, lobster and tomato broth, and butter and simmer until warmed through and well combined. Remove from the heat and season. Remove and discard the shells of six abalone. Remove and discard the top shell from the remaining abalone, and reserve all keeping warm.

For the ravioli arrange half potato slices on a parchment lined sheet pan. Place the mascarpone cheese in a pastry bag fitted with a medium round up and pipe some cheese in the center of each potato slice. Place two chervil leaves and some rockweed in the center and cover each with a remaining potato slice. Press the edges to seal and set aside. In a medium saute pan heat the oil over medium heat. Add the ravioli and saute on both sides until crisp. Remove from the heat and place on a paper towel lined sheet pan to drain. Season and set aside keeping warm.

Rudesheim, Berg Roseneck, Spatlese

Josef Leitz

Rheingau, Germany 1998

For the walleye, in a medium saute pan, heat the oil over medium heat. Season and sear the walleye, skin-side down, until crisp. Saute skin side up for 20 seconds. Remove from the heat and set aside keeping warm.

To serve, spoon some pot-au-feu in a soup plate and set a walleye fillet and a ravioli in the center. Place a crostini to one side of the dish and garnish with chervil.

Flathead Lake Whitefish with, Iroquois Heirloom Corn Crust (Serves 6)

Spitzer, Smaragd

Weingul Hirtzberger

Wachau, Austria 1995

Ingredients

For the annatto oil:

2 tablespoons olive oil

6 shallots, peeled and chopped

3 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped

2 tablespoons annatto paste (*)

8 ounces grapeseed oil

For the crawfish sauce:

1 tablespoon olive oil

4 lobster bodies

12 crawfish, rinsed

2 onions, peeled and chopped

2 carrots, peeled and chopped

2 stalks celery, chopped

1 small fennel bulb, chopped

2 shallots, peeled and minced

2 cloves garlic, peeled and minced

3 sprigs thyme

3 sprigs tarragon

2 teaspoons curry powder

For the leeks:

1 quart tomato puree

1 quart Sauvignon Blanc

1 quart lobster stock

1 teaspoon arrowroot, dissolved in 1 tablespoon water

1 tablespoon cognac

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

2 tablespoons heavy cream

Salt and pepper to taste

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 cup chicken stock

1 bunch leeks, sliced on the bias

3 cups spinach leaves, stemmed

Salt and pepper to taste

For the whitefish:

1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil

12 4-ounce Flathead Lake whitefish fillets (**)

2 cups organic Iroquois Heirloom corn flour (***)

Salt and pepper to taste

For the dish:

English peas, blanched Crawfish, boiled

For the garnish:

Salmon caviar Whitefish roe

(*.) Available in Latin American markets.

(**.) Flathead Lake is located in Montana. Available through Mountain Valley Seafood at [phone].

(***.) Available through Bioneers at [phone] or at www.bioneers.com.

For the annatto oil, in a medium sauccpan, heat the olive oil over medium heat, add the shallots, garlic, and annatto paste and saute until translucent. Add the grapeseed oil and bring to 130 degrees. Maintain the heat for 20 minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool to room temperature. Set aside in the refrigerator to steep overnight, Strain through a coffee filter-lined, fine mesh sieve, discard the solids, and reserve the oil.

For the crawfish sauce, in a large saucepan, heat the oil over medium heat, add the lobster bodies and crawfish and saute until bright red, about five minutes. Add the onions, carrots, celery, fennel, shallots, garlic, thyme, tarragon, and curry powder and saute until translucent. Add the tomato puree and simmer until tender, about Five minutes. Add the wine and lobster stock and return to a simmer. Maintain the heat until reduced by half, about two hours. Remove from the heat, strain through a fine mesh sieve, and transfer to a medium saucepan over medium heat. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat, and simmer until reduced by half, about 20 minutes. Add the arrowroot, cognac, butter, and heavy cream, whisk to combine, and simmer until warmed through. Remove from the heat, season, and set aside keeping warm.

For the leeks, in a medium saute pan, melt the butter over medium heat. Add the chicken stock, leeks, and spinach. Saute until tender, about three minutes. Remove from the heat, season, and set aside keeping warm.

For the whitefish, in a medium saucepan, heat the oil over medium heat. Season and liberally coat the whitefish fillets with the corn flour. Place the fish, skin side-down, in the pan and sear on both sides until desired doneness. Remove from the heat and set aside keeping warm.

To serve, spoon some crawfish sauce in the center of a plate and set a mound of leeks, spinach, and peas in the center. Set two whitefish fillets and a crawfish on top, drizzle with annatto oil and garnish with salmon roe and whitefish roe.

Golden Trout with Nicoise (Serves 6) Vegetable salad directions

For the basil oil:

2 ounces basil leaves

3/4 cup grapeseed oil

For the nicoise vegetable salad:

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

2 artichoke hearts, roasted and quartered

1/2 bunch asparagus, blanched

2 ounces haricots verts

1 small bulb fennel, cut into thin strips and balanched

6 fingerling potatoes, quartered and blanched

6 purple fingerling potatoes, quartered and blanched

6 teardrop tomatoes

1/4 cup pitted and halved nicoise olives

1 corn cob, roasted and kernels removed Salt, pepper, and white truffle oil to taste

For the trout:

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

1 tablespoon olive oil

12 4-ounce fresh water golden trout fillets

Salt and pepper to taste

For the garnish:

Grilled lemon halves

White anchovies

Fried parsley

(*)Available through Mountain Valley Seafood at [phone]

For the basil oil, in a medium saucepan over medium heat, bring the grapeseed oil to 130 degrees. Add the basil leaves and remove from the heat. Transfer to the bowl of a food processor fitted with the metal blade attachment and puree until smooth, about two minutes. Strain through a fine mesh sieve, discard the solids, and reserve the oil.

For the nicoise vegetable salad, in a medium saute pan, melt the butter over medium heat. Add the artichoke hearts, asparagus, haricot verts, fennel, fingerling potatoes, purple fingerling potatoes, tomatoes, olives, and corn toss to combine, and simmer until warmed through, about five minutes. Remove from the heat and add the truffle oil. Mix to combine, season, and set aside keeping warm.

For the trout, in a medium saute pan, melt the butter and oil over medium heat. Season and saute the trout fillets until desired doneness. Remove from the heat and set aside keeping warm.

To serve spoon some nicoise vegetables in the center of a plate and set two golden trout fillets on top Drizzle some basil oil around the dish and garnish with lemon "" and fried parsley.

Tilapia with a Scallion Crust and Curry Oil

Ingredients

For the roasted tomatoes:

2 Plum tomatoes, quartered and seeds gently removed

1 shallot, peeled and minced

1 teaspoon chopped parsley

1 teaspoon chopped rosemary

1/4 cup olive oil

Salt and granulated sugar to taste

For the curry oil:

1 cup olive oil

3 shallots, peeled and minced

3 teaspoons curry powder

For the kaffir lime leaf butter:

3 shallots, peeled and chopped

3 cups Sauvignon Blanc

1 sprig thyme

12 Ounces unsalted butter, diced and chilled

4 Kaffir lime leaves, chopped Juice of 1 lime

Salt and pepper to taste

For the Couscous:

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 onion, peeled and diced

1/2 pound Israeli couscous

2 cups chicken stock, boiling

1 ounce unsalted butter

Salt and pepper to taste

For the Vegetables:

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 cloves garlic, minced

2 onions, peeled and minced

1 zucchini, diced

1 yellow squash, diced

2 portobellow mushrooms, diced

3 ounces corn kernels, roasted

1/4 bunch parsley, stemmed and chopped

2 tablepoons unsalted butter

1/2 cup chicken stock

Reserved couscous Salt and pepper to taste

For the scallion crust:

1 cup scallions, chopped

3 cups panko breadcrumbs

For the hearts of palm:

2 tablespoons graspeseed oil

6.6-inch fresh hearts of palm, quartered lengthwise and rubbed with lemon juice.

1/4 cup chicken stock

1/2 cup white wine

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

Salt and pepper to taste

For the tilapia:

2 tablespoons olive oil

Reserved scallion crust

12 3-ounce tilapia fillets

Salt and pepper to taste

For the dish:

Fried plaintain strips

Roasted scallions

ingredients

* Available through Mountain Valley Seafood at [phone]

For the roasted tomatos, preheat the oven to 110 degrees. In a medium bowl, toss together all of the ingredients and transfer to a silpat-lined sheet pan. Place in the oven untilidry, about eight hours. Remove from the heat and set aside keeping warm.

For the curry oil, in a medium saucepan, heat two tablespoons of oil over medium heat. Add the shallots and curry powder and saute until translucent. Add the remaining oil and bring to 135 degrees. Simmer for 25 minutes. Remove from the heat, transfer to a medium bowl, and set aside to cool. Strain through a coffee filter-lined, fine mesh sieve and set aside.

For the kaffir lime leaf butter, in a medium saucepan over medium heat, combine the shallots, wine, and thyme. Bring to a boil, reduce a the heat, and simmer until tender, about 10 minutes. Whisk in the butter, lime leaves, and lime juice and remove from the heat. Cover and set aside for 20 minutes. Strain through a fine mesh sieve, season, and set aside keeping warm.

For the couscous, in a medium saucepan, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the onion and couscous, and stir to coat, about five minutes. Add the chicken stock, cover, and simmer until tender, about 10 minutes. Remove from the heat, add the butter, and stir to combine. Season, transfer to a parchment-lined sheet pan, and spread evenly to cool.

For the vegetables, in a medium saute pan, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the garlic and onions and saute until translucent. Add the zucchini, squash, mushrooms, corn, and parsley and saute until tender, about seven minutes. Add the butter and the chicken stock and stir to combine. Add the couscous and simmer until warmed through, about two minutes. Remove from the heat, season, and set aside keeping warm.

For the scallion crust, in the bowl of a food processor fitted with the metal blade attachment, combine the scallions and bread crumbs and pulse to form a through paste. Transfer to a medium saute pan, heat the oil over medium heat. Sear the hearts of palm until folden brown, about two minutes. Add the chicken stock white wine, and butter and simmer until tender, about five minutes. Remove from the heat, season, and set aside keeping warm.

For the tilapia, in a medium saute pan, heat the oil over medium heat. Season and coat one side of the tilapia fillets with the scallion crust. Place the tilapia, crust-side-down in the pan, and sear both sides until desired doneness. Remove from the heat and set aside keeping warm.

To serve, arrange some vegetable couscous and hearts of palm in the center of a plate and set two tilapia fillets on top. Arrange some plantain chips, roasted tomatoes, and scallions on top and drizzle the dish with kaffir lime leaf butter and curry oil.

Wild Striped Bass with Grilled Fennel (Serves 6)

For the vinaigrette:

1 cup extra virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons aged sherry vinegar

1 small shallot, peeled and minced

2 heirloom tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and diced

1 cup pitted kalamata olives, halved

Salt and white pepper to taste

For the grilled fennel:

2 small fennel bulbs, halved

3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

Salt and white pepper to taste

For the tomato salad:

1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil

1 tablespoon aged red wine vinegar

1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar

2 pounds mixed heirloom tomatoes, quartered

3 shallots, peeled and minced

1/4 tablespoon thyme leaves

1/2 pound haricots verts, blanced

2 cups baby arugula

Chopped chives

Kalamata olives

Salt and white pepper to taste

For the basil oil:

2 ounces basil leaves

3 cups grapessed oil

For the striped bass:

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

12 4-ounce wild striped bass fillets (*)

Fleur de sel and white pepper to taste

For the garnish:

* Available through Mountain

Valley Seafood at [phone].

directions

For the vinaigrette, in a medium bowl, combine all of the ingredients. Toss to combine, season, and set aside.

For the grilled fennel, prepare a hot grill. Brush the fennel with the olive oil and season. Place on the grill until tender, about five minutes. Remove from the heat and place on a cutting board. Cut into thin slices and set aside keeping warm.

For the tomato salad, in a medium bowl, toss to combine the olive oil, red wine vinegar, balsamic viegar, and tomatoes and set aside for 30 minutes. Add the shallots, thyme, haricots verts, and arugula and to ss to combine. Season and set aside.

For the basil oil, in a medium saucepan over medium heat, bring the grapeseed oil to 130 degrees. Add the basil leaves and remove from the heat. Transfer to the Strain through a fine mesh sieve, discard the leaves, and reserve the oil.

For the striped bass, in a medium saut'c pan, heat the oil over medium heat. Season and sear the striped bass on both sides until desired doneness. Remove from the heat and set aside keeping warm.

To serve, spoon some tomato salad and grilled fennel in the center of a plate and set two stripped bass fillets on top. Drizzle some vinaigrette and basil oil around the dish and garnish with chives and olive.

Columbia River Sturgeon with Hubba-Hubba Mustard Sauce (Serves 6)

directions

ingredients

For the sturgeon:

4 ounces granulated sugar

4 ounces kosher salt

Zest of 1 lime

Zest of 1 lemon

2 sprigs dill

1/4 ounce ground bay leaves

1/2 ounce ground black pepper

1/2 tablespoon chopped thyme leaves

1 1/4 pound Columbia River sturgeon fillet, skinless (*)

For the flying fish roe:

1 ounce flying fish roe

For the mustard sauce:

3 tablespoons Eleni's Hubba-Hubba mustard (**)

2 ounces plain yogurt

2 ounces sour cream

1 tablespoon chopped tarragon

Salt and pepper to taste

For the salad:

3 cups micro greens

1/2 cup daikon radish sprouts

1 small red onion peeled and soaked in red wine vinegar

1 stalk celery, minced

1 small Granny Smith apple, cored and diced.

3 ounces smoked trout

1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar

3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

Salt and pepper to taste

For the dish:

English cucumbers, peeled and thinly sliced

Reserved curing liquid

Salmon roe

Ramsar[TM] karaburun caviar (***)

Chopped chives

(*) Available through Northwest Seafood at [phone].

(**) Available through Hubbard Creek Company at [phone].

(***) Karaburun is a species of sturgeon. Available through Browne Trading at [phone].

For the sturgeon, in a medium bowl, mix together the sugar, salt, lime zest, lemon zest, dill, bay leaves, black pepper, and thyme and set aside. Place the sturgeon on a parchment-lined sheet pan and liberally coat both sides with the sugar mix. Cover with plastic wrap and set aside in the refrigerator for 24 hours. Transfer the sturgeon to a cutting board and reserve any excess liquid. Rinse the sturgeon under cold running water and pat dry. Place on a cutting board, slice thin, and set aside keeping cool.

For the flying fish roe, place the roe on a microwave safe plate. Preset the microwave to the low defrost setting and cook until dry, about 40 minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool.

For the mustard sauce, in a medium bowl, mix together all of the ingredients. Season and set aside.

For the salad, in a medium bowl, toss to combine the micro greens, daikon radish sprouts, red onion, celery, apple, and trout. Add the vinegar and toss to combine. Add the oil and toss to combine. Season and set aside.

To serve arrange some cucumber slices on the center of a plate and brush with the reserved curing liquid. Arrange some sturgeon on top and spoon some salad to one side of the dish. Spoon some mustard sauce, flying fish roe, salmon roe, karaburun caviar, and chives around the dish.

E.L.T. Sandwich with Kennebek Fries

directions

[THOMAS SALAMUNOVICH]

Ingredients

For the eel:

2 quarts water

2 9-inch fresh water eels, skinned (*)

3 ounces kosher salt

1 ounce ground black pepper

1 cinnamon stick

1 teaspoon whole cloves

Zest of 1 orange

Zest of 1 lemon

For the red wine vinaigrette:

1/4 cub vegetable oil

1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons red wine vinegar

1 tablespoon sherry vinegar

1 clove garlic, peeled, stemmed, and minced

1 shallot, peeled and minced Salt, pepper, and granulated sugar to taste

For the sandwich:

1 loaf sourdough French bread cut into 24 thin slices

2 tablespoons olive oil

Mayonnaise, as needed

4 tablespoons unsalted butter

Reserved eel

2 cups arugula

2 tablespoons reserved red wine vinaigrette

1 largely yellow tomato, thinly sliced

1 large red tomato, thinly sliced

2 avocados, peeled, pitted, and thinly sliced

For the fries:

3 Kennebek potatoes, cut in o 1/4 x 1/4 x 3-inch sticks (**)

Peanut oil for frying

Salt to taste

For the dish:

Reserved arugula salad

Melted butter

Reserved red wine vinaigrette

Mayonnaise

(*) Available through Northwest Seafood at [phone].

(**) Kennebek potatoes are grown in Maine and are available in the fall and winter. Available through Indian Rock Product at [phone].

directions

For the eel, in a medium saucepan over medium heat, combine one quart of the water, the eels, salt, pepper, cinnamon, cloves, orange and lemon zest to a boil. Remove from the heat, add the remaining water, and set aside in the refrigerator for two days. Preheat a smoker to 160 degrees. Remove the eels from the brine, pat dry, and discard the liquid. Place the eels in the smoker for four hours. Remove from the heat and transfer to a parchment lined sheet pan. Cover well with plastic wrap and set aside in the refrigerator for two days.

For the red wine vinaigrette, in a medium bowl, whisky together all of the ingredients. Season and set aside.

For the sandwich, preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Place the bread shees on a parchment lined sheet pan and brush with the oil. Place in the even until golden brown about five minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool. Spread half the bread with mayonmaise and set aside. In a medium saute pan, melt the butter over medium heat and saute the eels until warmed through, about three minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside keeping warm. In a medium bowl, toss the arugula with two tablespoons of red wine vinaigrette. Arrange some tomato slices, avo cado slices, arugula, and eel on half the toasted bread slices and reserve the remaining arugula. Top each with the remaining toasted bread slices and reserve.

For the fries, preheat the fryer to 300 degrees. Place the potatoes in the fryer for four minutes. Remove from the heat and transfer the fries to a paper towel-lined sheet pan to drain. Increase the fryer temperature to 360 degrees. Add the potatoes and fry until golden brown, about three minutes. Remove from the heat and transfer to a paper towel-lined sheet pan to drain. Season and set aside keeping warm.

To serve, place two sandwiches and some arugula salad in the center of a plate. Spoon some melted butter and red wine vinaigrette around the dish and accompany with Kennebek fries and mayonnaise.

For the salsa verde, in a medium bowl, whisk together all of the ingredients. Season and set aside.

For the fennel salad, in a medium bowl, toss together all of the ingredients. Season and set aside.

For the red wine vinaigrette, in a medium bowl, whisk together all of the ingredients. Season and set aside.

For the watercress salad, in a medium bowl, toss together the watercress and the vinaigrette to coat. Season and set aside

For the red tilapia, in a large saute pan, heat the vegetable oil and olive oil over medium heat, season and sear the red tilapia on both sides until desired doneness. Remove from the heat and set aside keeping warm.

To finish the ravioli, bring a saucepan of salted water to a boil. Add the ravioli and simmer until tender, about two minutes. Remove from the heat, strain through a fine mesh sieve, and set aside keeping warm.

To serve, spoon some marrow bean vinaigrette in the center of a plate and drizzle some salsa verde around the dish. Set a mushroom and artichoke ravioli in the center and top with some watercress salad, a red tilapia fillet, and fennel salad.

Striped Bass with Little (Serves 6) Neck Clam Chowder

ingredients

For the saffron potatoes:

4 Yukon gold potatoes, peeled and trimmed into rounds

3 threads saffron

2 cups clam juice

1 bay leaf

For the clam chowder:

2 ounces unsalted butter

2 shallots, peeled and minced

1 clove garlic, peeled and minced

2 stalks celery, chopped

1 small Yukon gold potato, peeled and diced

1 cup Sauvignon Blanc

2 springs thyme

2 pounds littleneck clams

1/2 cup whole milk

Salt and pepper to taste

For the vegetables:

2 ounces unsalted butter

2 cups shucked English peas

24 cherry tomatoes, blanched and peeled

Salt and pepper to taste

For the salad:

1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons sherry vinegar

2 teaspoons Dijon mustard

1 shallot, peeled and minced

1 cup pea tendrils

1 carrot, peeled, thinly sliced, and blanched

Salt and pepper to taste

For the striped bass:

6 6-ounce fresh water striped bass fillets, skin on (*)

2 egg whites, beaten

1/4 cup toasted breadcrumbs

1 teaspoon minced lemon zest

1 tablespoon minced Italian parsley

4 ounces unsalted butter

Salt and pepper to taste

For the garnish:

Fried leek strips

(*) Available through Northwest Seafood at [phone].

directions

For the saffron potatoes, in a medium saucepan over medium heat, bring all of the ingredients, and enough water to cover, to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer until the potatoes are tender, about 20 minutes. Remove from the heat, strain through a fine mesh sieve, and set aside keeping warm.

For the clam chowder, in a large saucepan, melt one ounce of the butter over medium heat. Add the shallots, garlic, celery, and potatoes and saute until translucent. Add the wine and simmer until almost dry, about five minutes. Add the thyme and clams, cover, and simmer until the shells are open, about five minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the clams to a sheet pan, reserve 18 separately and maintain the hot saucepan. Remove the meat from the remaining clams, and set aside, discarding the shells. Add the milk to the saucepan and simmer until the potatoes are soft, about 10 minutes. Add the remaining butter and whisk to combine. Add the clam meat and reserved clams, season and set aside keeping warm.

For the vegetables in a medium saut'e pan, melt the butter over medium heat. Add the peas and tomatoes and saute until warmed through, about three minutes. Remove from the heat, season and set aside keeping warm. For the salad, in a medium bowl whisk together the oil, vinegar, mustard, and shallot. In a medium bowl combine the pea tendrils, carrot, and vinegar mix loss to combine, season and set aside.

For the striped bass, place the bass fillets on a sheet pan and brush with the egg whites. In a small bowl, mix together the breadcrumbs, lemon zest, and parsley and season with black pepper. Sprinkle the breadcrumb mixture on top of the bass fillets and set aside. In a large saute pan, melt the butter over medium heat. Season and sear the bass fillets on both sides until desired doneness. Remove from the heat and set aside keeping warm.

To serve, spoon some clam chowder into the center of a soup bowl, arrange some salad in the center, and place a bass fillet on top. Spoon some potatoes and vegetables around the dish and garnish with fried leeks.

Golden Trout with Quail Eggs and Red Flannel Hash (Serves 6) directions

ingredients

For the trout skin:

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

6 11x2-inch strips golden trout skin

For the red flanne1 hash:

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

2 onions, peelcd and diced

6 Idaho potatoes, peeled, diced, and boiled

2 stalks celery

2 Scallions, diced

1/4 cup fish stock

3 ounces heavy cream

2 red beets, boiled, peeled, and diced

2 fresh water golden trout fillets, skinned and diced (*)

Salt anti pepper to taste

For the vegetables:

1 cup unsalted butter

1 bunch broccolini, blanched (*)

1 bunch golden beets, roasted, peeled, and halved

Salt and pepper to taste

For the dish:

12 fried quail eggs

Beet juice

Coarse ground black pepper

For the garnish:

Chervil sprigs

(*) Available through Northwest Seafood at [phone].

(**) Broccolini is a cross between broccoli and asparagus and is also known as aspiration. Available through The Chef's Garden at [phone].

For the trout skin, preheat the oven to 225 degrees, place the trout skin on a parchment-lined sheet pan and brush with the oil. Wrap each skin around a 3-inch ring mold and place, seam side down, on the sheet pan Place in the oven and roast until crisp rolling the molds occasionally to cook evenly, about 40 minutes. Remoye from the heat remove the molds, and set aside to cool.

For the red flannel hash, in a large saute pan, melt the butter over medium heat. Add the onions, potatoes, and celery and saute until tender, about five minutes. Add the scallions, fish stock, and heavy cream and stir to combine. Saute until the mixture turns golden brown and Forms a crust, about 10 minutes. Add the beets and trout, togs. to combine, and saute until warmed through, about four minutes. Remove from the heat, season, and set aside keeping warm.

For the vegetables, in a medium saute pan, melt the butter over medium heat. Add the broccolini and beets and simmer until warmed, about two minutes. Remove from the heat, season, and reserve the vegetables and butter separately, keeping warm.

To serve, place a trout skin ring in the center of a plate and fill with some red flannel hash. Set two quail eggs on top anti sprinkle with black pepper. Arrange some broccolini and yellow beets around the dish, drizzle with beet juice and melted butter, and garnish with chervil.