Food fights: best first-class airline meals.

When U.S. airlines were deregulated in 1978, first-class perks like in-flight ice sculptures, seat-side meat carvings, and saucy flambes were the first things to go. But long-haul carriers have begun a high-stakes competition to recapture the ever-mobile and affluent bon vivant in business and first-class. As for economy class, let them eat cake.

AUSTRIAN AIRLINES

Because altitude can dull the taste buds, the onboard chefs at Austrian Airlines have packed their business-class fare with extra flavor, proving that serious in-flight food is not just for the long-haul flights anymore. Venison piccata with sage, kohlrabi ragout, green gazpacho with chorizo, and baked dumplings with hot cherries recall Austria's regal Hapsburg past. The onboard sommeliers can recommend a bold 2002 Wurtemburger Trollinger red from Germany or a stony Gewurztraminer from Austria's emerging Styria region.

CATHAY PACIFIC AIRWAYS

Hot toast, sizzling sunny-side up eggs, and steamy jasmine rice may not seem like especially fine foods, but until Cathay Pacific installed toasters, rice cookers, and skillets on board its entire fleet, no airline was able to provide such freshly prepared comfort staples. Rest assured, Cathay's high-end food delivers too. Pre-takeoff service alone includes "Cathay Sunrises" (Krug champagne and Drambuie with citrus zest), and amuses bouche of lobster wrapped with seasoned nori. First-class meals, somewhat legendary among business-class warriors, are served on beautiful lacquer trays and have drawn comparisons to the fare offered at the finest restaurants in Shanghai and Hong Kong.

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THAI AIRWAYS

Fliers give up a lot of control in the air, but Thai Airways returns some power to passengers by letting them select their meals ahead of time from 22 different menus. Options include a delicate tab-tim fish souffle, a glass noodle and lobster tail omelet, or more traditional Western cuisine like grilled tournedos of beef and coquilles Saint-Jacques. Butter pats stamped with the Thai Airways logo, champagne menus, pre-dinner macadamia nuts served with Thai iced tea, and full three-course meals on brief flights are a few onboard perks you'll rarely see elsewhere.

EMIRATES

On Boeing 777 flights four cabin crewmembers are devoted exclusively to the needs of first-class passengers, making the service the best in the air. But that doesn't mean the food plays second fiddle. The airline's 500 monthly first-class menus feature duck-wrapped melon, roast lobster, and veal with pumpkin coconut cream (not to mention Dom Perignon and Iranian Sevruga caviar), thus ensuring the airline's place in the gay gourmand's splurge itinerary. Freshly brewed coffees, desserts, and small boxes of Godiva chocolate follow all meals. Can't sleep? Have the attendant prepare you a Horlicks or Ovaltine with a shot of Cointreau.

GULF AIR

Onboard "sky chefs" whip up char-grilled scallops, mint lamb kofta, and veal ragout. Each meal is made to order for first-class jet setters while Grand Brut Perrier Jouet flows freely. All dishes are prepared according to Islamic Halal dietary guidelines, and a nice touch is that they can be ordered anytime during the flight. If the kids across the aisle get too rambunctious, summon over the "sky nanny" whose sole flight duty is to keep children occupied with special drinks, snacks, and games.

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EOS AIRLINES

Flight attendants on the all business-class flights are given a one-day training course at the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, N.Y., to make sure the food is served and plated properly. Dishes like beef filet with truffled mashed potatoes, buffalo mozzarella with pesto, and spring chicken with risotto are designed to be light but not leave you hungry. To get an extra 45 minutes of shut-eye in flight, skip breakfast service and opt for the airline's continental breakfast to go.

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