Food and Drink: Scrum-ptious Italian cuisine.

Byline: Jenny Longhurst

WHEN in Rome or even when in South Wales on a match day, enjoy a true flavour of Italy. The Italians pride themselves on regional cuisine as much as the French and ring the changes with risottos and pastas with the creamier sauces in the North and a heavy emphasis on tomato-based dishes in the South. Rome, which lies in the Lazio region, has a few specialities of its own as Enrico De Vita, who was born there, explained.

``In this area, we tend to go for either sweetish or slightly piquant sauces with chilli and garlic and lots of broccoli,'' said Enrico, who runs La Boheme in Wesley Lane, Charles Street and Santa Sophia in Crwys Road, Cathays.

From the Via Veneto to St Peter's Square, gaze at any ristorante menu and you will probably find a carbonara.

``The classical carbonara is made with pancetta the Italian smoked bacon and raw egg yolk,'' Enrico explained.

``No garlic, onions or cream and definitely no fromage frais. It's not meant to be a creamy dish.''

In Italy, different pasta shapes are suited to different accompaniments.

Spaghetti is good with meatballs and thick meat sauces which coat it well according to Enrico.

Ridged pasta such as penne goes especially well with heavy tomato sauces which get trapped in the tracks and tagliatelle and fettucine are recommended for creamier sauces because there is nothing to hold the mixture although individual preference can also play a part.

``Amatriciana made from tomato, garlic, smoked bacon, chilli and onions is a typical Roman sauce,'' said Enrico.

And because Italians usually eat what is in season, there should be plenty of broccoli dishes to be found in The Eternal City in the spring.

Enrico is used to catering for large appetites after feeding many a rugby player over the years as a Cardiff restaurateur.

``Sportsmen love their pasta and will often eat a large pizza plate full of pasta mixed with either chicken or beef, then come back for seconds.''

Enrico does not believe in the practice of rinsing cooked pasta in cold water after it has been drained.

``That washes away the starch and it's the starch that helps to thicken and add flavour.''

For pasta at its best, he recommends draining cooked pasta and tipping it on to a marble or cold surface.

Mix in a little olive oil and allow to cool.

``It will remain al dente and can then be heated to serve,'' he said. The Romans still put the emphasis on natural foods. In spite of the legendary tales of ancient Roman feasting, most inhabitants ate simple food, predominantly bread, olive oil, garlic, onions, cress, chicory, broad beans, cabbage, honey and grapes.

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ITALIAN TREAT Enrico De Vita with his mouth-watering food. PICTURES: Paul Rose