Fighting the blight.

CHESTINUTS INSPIRE PASSIONS WELL BEYOND THOSE GENERATED IN our hearts and minds by the ordinary nut. Art Culinaire first explored the chestnut's uses, history and unique character in Issue 46. Encouraging recent advances in the scientific community's efforts to reintroduce the blight-devastated American chestnut to the eastern United States has led us to revisit the topic nearly ten years later.

Castanea sativa, or the European chestnut, is actually a native of Western Asia, and has been cultivated in Europe's temperate climate regions since 300 BC. The nut's high starch and low oil content has made it an especially useful food for centuries, although in Europe and the United States its importance was long ago supplanted by wheat and grains. Castanea mollissima, the Chinese chestnut, closely resembles its European counterpart, and is used in much the same way, while the Japanese chestnut, Castanea crenata, bears a larger, starchier nut that is more often served intact than ground into flour or meal. Then there are horse chestnuts (Aesculus hippocastanum), not of the same genus as "true" chestnuts, whose fruits are inedible unless processed to remove their large concentration of bitter tannins; water chestnuts (Trapa spp.), with a soft, pungent white fruit that is widely used in Asia and in the traditional cooking of the Loire Valley; and Chinese water chestnuts (Eleocharis dulcis), which are actually corms, not nuts, and which are eaten raw or steamed and milled into flour.

Readily available in Western Europe, Japan, China, Australia and pockets of the western United States, chestnuts were, in the nineteenth century, also absurdly plentiful in a corridor stretching from Maine to Northern Florida. In The Oxford Encyclopedia of Food and Drink in America (Oxford University Press, 2004), Andrew F. Smith writes of the tree's golden age, "... the chestnut was everyone's free food. Chestnuts fell in profusion from the branches of 4 billion trees and were there on the forest floor for the taking. Farmers allowed their pigs to roam free to fatten on the mast of the forest, the edible nuts and fruits that fall from the trees and the bushes." Sadly, at the dawn of the 20th century, a fungus introduced on imported Chinese chestnut trees very nearly caused the extinction of the American chestnut, or Castanea dentata. By 1950, the stately tree, which had been prized not only for its nuts but also for its strong, straight, high-quality timber, and the tall shade canopy it provided to the Eastern forest ecosystem, had been virtually wiped out. Today, the American Chestnut Foundation (ACF), established by a group of plant breeders and geneticists in 1983, is working to create a hybrid tree with the disease resistance of the Chinese chestnut and the physical characteristics of the American. In 1989, ACF established Wagner Research Farm in Meadowview, Virginia, where a backcross breeding program is bringing the Eastern United States ever closer to the return of the beloved Castanea dentata.

Until the time when the chestnut canopy recalls the idyll of the 1800's, American chefs can make use of chestnuts (and all their pureed and candied iterations) from the Western states, Europe and Asia. On the following pages, Tim McKee of Solera and La Belle Vie in Minneapolis and Michael Laiskonis of New York's Le Bernardin create savory and sweet dishes that showcase chestnuts' versatility, subtle flavor and synonymity with the hearty cooking of wintertime.

"A sailor's wife had chestnuts in her lap, And munched, and munched, and
munched: 'Give me,' quoth I: 'Aroint thee, witch!' the rump-fed ronyon
cries. Her husband's to Aleppo gone, master o' the Tiger: But in a sieve
I'll thither sail, And, like a rat without a tail, I'll do, and I'll do,
and I'll do."
--William Shakespeare (1564-1616)
Macbeth (1606) act 1, scene 3

-Today: ACF is on third generation of backcrossed American chestnut hybrids; ACF New York State chapter president Herb Darling says that they're making "major inroads to recovery."

-1989: ACF begins backcross breeding program

-1983: American Chestnut Foundation (ACF) established

-1950: American chestnut virtually extinct

-Early 1900's: Blight introduced to American chestnut trees

-1800's: Peak of American chestnut abundance

-300 BC: First known cultivation of chestnuts in Europe

A STAR SPREADING THE NEWS

MICHAEL LAISKONIS

Le Bernardin

New York, New York

EVEN ON VACATION, MICHAEL LAISKONIS FINDS himself obsessed with food. On a recent, rare day off, Laiskonis and his wife decided to do something "quintessentially New York," riding the subway out to Coney Island to witness the run-down seaside burg in all its beachy, carnivalesque glory.

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"We took about ten minutes to look at the ocean and the sideshow stuff, and then spent the rest of the day tooling around the Russian bakeries in [nearby] Brighton Beach," says Laiskonis, executive pastry chef at Le Bernardin. "That's something you can only find in New York, that breadth of stimuli." Laiskonis moved to the city in 2004, after several years spent learning his craft in Michigan, most notably as the pastry chef at Tribute, in Detroit.

"At Tribute, I was in a situation where I never had to think of limitations. I had ample labor and tons of space to do these complex plates. I did a lot of things a la minute. I like bringing that line cook sensibility to dessert," says Laiskonis, who was in fact a line cook at Tribute for two years before taking over the pastry kitchen in 1999. Since his arrival in New York, Laiskonis says that his work has undergone "... a major style shift. [Eric Ripert's] food is very simple and highlights one pristine ingredient. I've also benefited from a little bit of maturity, and I no longer need to put 15 ingredients on a plate."

Laiskonis studied fine arts at Wayne State University in Michigan and, after taking a break to travel the country, returned to Detroit in search of a job. Through the sibling of a roommate, he landed a gig at a bakery, and says he "ended up practically living there for the next two years. What got me hooked was working with the bread, the fact that it was very scientific and exact, yet at the same time a living and breathing thing. After a while, as long as I filled the cases with things to sell, I was given free reign, and I took that opportunity to learn as much as I could. I started reading everything," he says, noting that Roland Bilheux and Alain Escoffier's French Professional Pastry Series was a particularly educational set of texts to which he still regularly refers. Laiskonis eventually gleaned enough knowledge to land a dual position as sous chef and pastry chef at Emily's, in Northville, Michigan, where he stayed until joining the staff at Tribute.

Pastry Art & Design magazine has twice named him one of the "10 Best Pastry Chefs in America", and in 2004 Bon Appetit gave him an American Food & Entertaining. He's even been a contender on the Food Network's Iron Chef America, yet Laiskonis maintains a humble demeanor. "I never thought I would enter New York at the top tier like I have," he says of cooking at one of just five four-star restaurants in the city. He prefers the term "self-directed" to "self-taught," and on the merits of a culinary school education he says, "It was something I considered at one point, but I couldn't afford it, so I chose more of an 'earn while you learn' approach. There's no substitute for actually doing the work. Working in a kitchen, I see culinary school externs on a daily basis, and they run the range. Sometimes you wonder why a person ever got into the business, and sometimes you think you're seeing the early foundation of the next golden child. I think whatever the context of your education, you've got to absorb as much as you can, and filter the information through your own sensibility. If anything, I wish I'd had the money for cooking school, and I would have used it to travel and eat, which to me is as important as any formal schooling."

UNA VIDA HERMOSA

TIM McKEE

Solera and La Belle Vie

Minneapolis, Minnesota

A FEW YEARS AGO, PARTNERS TIM MCKEE AND JOSH Thoma set out to open "a cool little Spanish restaurant," and ended up with Solera, a massive, multi-story building with five kitchens, an open roof deck and bar, two floors of event space, a sidewalk patio and a sprawling lounge in addition to a 125-seat dining room.

"Our big joke is, we've got 30,000 square feet, and nowhere to put anything," says McKee, also executive chef and co-owner, with Thoma, of La Belle Vie. "The value of a place like this is in the real estate, and you can't own a building in downtown Minneapolis and use half of it for storage."

Since spring of 2003, McKee and his crew have been hooking Minneapolis on the "tapas dining" concept, which the chef admits is purely American in its execution. "You would never see a restaurant like this in Spain," he says. "They don't have tapas restaurants per se. In Spain, it's bar food, served in small spaces. You get maybe five or six different choices, and you eat it standing up. Not to put down what you see in Spain, because a lot of it is inspiring, but we tend to dress things up a little more, make them look prettier. I've eaten lots of croquetas in Spain, and mostly they're not all that great. I've had some good ones [in Spain], but ours are great. We played with the recipe until it became something that we'd like to eat."

McKee came to the business as a student at the University of Minnesota, looking to pay his way through school. He started at Azur, preparing fare from southwestern France, and continued to cook after earning a degree in anthropology and geology. However, it wasn't until he'd been named a Food & Wine "Best New Chef", in 1997, that he decided to make a career of cooking. He'd recently become chef at D'Amico Cucina (part of the D'Amico family collection that also included Azur) in the wake of the recently-departed Doug Flicker, and McKee says, "Food & Wine kind of made my career decision for me." In 1998, McKee and Thoma opened La Belle Vie, a French restaurant with Mediterranean accents, in Stillwater, about a 35 minute drive from Minneapolis. The area's dearth of fine dining restaurants and its residents' socioeconomic status seemed to make Stillwater an ideal location for their first restaurant, but the partners have since closed La Belle Vie, and reopened in Minneapolis. "Our lease was coming to an end, and a lot of our clients were driving in from Minneapolis," explains McKee. "You'd look at the reservation book, and the vast majority were not coming from 651, which is Stillwater's area code."

Thoma and McKee announced their plans to open Solera at the end of 2001, and the Minneapolis dining community waited with an anticipation bordering on hysteria. For months, the local food media speculated on the opening date and menu, which left McKee shaking his head. "It's great when people want to write about you, but if there's no story, there's no story," he says. "In my mind, that's how it goes. You open when you're ready. You've got to make sure that the location is, right, the deal is right, the opportunity is right. The restaurant business is a risky one, so it doesn't make any sense to try and get any old space and open as fast as you can."

With a menu of 60 items and the largest by-the-glass sherry program in the country, McKee says that the biggest challenge he faces at Solera is training the service staff. "It can be a daunting proposition to come here and be a server. You get this giant menu with all of these foreign words. There's a lot to learn. We have a comprehensive training program, where each new server spends three days in the kitchen, tasting everything. They spend some time with the expeditor, so every dish passes through their hands. We have them run food to the tables and do the description for the customers. We're committed to making sure that they understand what's going on here."

Although he laments the government rules that restrict the import of Spain's mythical pata negra and some chorizos into the United States, McKee maintains that his cuisine is not especially protein-based, and that having recently discovered the rare padron peppers being grown in California makes up for this country's partial ham embargo. "Just sauteed in oil with a little salt, they make a great tapa," he says. "It's pretty cool, to bring that little piece of Spain to Minneapolis."

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RELATED ARTICLE: Milk Chocolate Chestnut Cream (Serves 8)

MICHAEL LAISKONIS

Tokaji Aszu 5 Puttonyos

Chateau Pajzos

Tokaji, Hungary, 1999

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

directions

For the milk chocolate: In saucepan, cook sugar and water until caramelized, then stir in cream. Add star anise and zest and bring to boil. Remove from heat, steep 10 minutes and strain through fine-mesh sieve. Place chocolate in bowl and pour warm cream mixture over, mixing until chocolate is completely melted. Stir in chestnut puree and chill.

For the lemon cream: In saucepan, combine juices, eggs and sugar and heat to 165 degrees, stirring constantly. Remove from heat, whisk in butter and let cool to room temperature.

For the caramel: Combine sugar, water and glucose in saucepan and cook over medium heat until deep golden brown. Stir in cream, then add milk and continue cooking until sugar has dissolved. Remove from heat and let cool five minutes. Whisk in butter and set aside.

For the rice: In saute pan, bring sugar and water to 240 degrees. Stir in cereal and cook until caramelized. Add butter and remove from heat.

For the chestnut foam: Combine all ingredients in bowl and mix with immersion blender until frothy.

To serve: Layer caramel, lemon cream and milk chocolate in glass. Spoon chestnut foam over and garnish with rice and a few grains of sea salt.

ingredients

For the milk chocolate:

2 ounces granulated sugar
1 ounce water
10 ounces heavy cream
2 star anise
Zest of 1 orange
5 ounces Valrhona[R] Jivara milk chocolate, coarsely chopped
2 ounces sweetened chestnut puree

For the lemon cream:

5 ounces lemon juice
1 ounce orange juice
4 eggs
11 ounces granulated sugar
10 ounces unsalted butter, chilled

For the caramel:

8 1/2 ounces granulated sugar
1 1/2 ounces water
1/2 ounce glucose syrup
4 ounces heavy cream, warm
4 ounces milk
1 ounce butter

For the rice:

2 ounces granulated sugar
1 ounce water
3 ounces crisped rice cereal
1/2 ounce unsalted butter

For the chestnut foam:

8 ounces milk
Zest of 1 orange
1 1/2 teaspoons lecithin*
1 ounce chestnut flour
1 ounce maple syrup

For the garnish:

Maldon[R] sea salt

*An extract of egg, soy or corn, used as an emulsifier and/or a stabilizer. Available through Mountain Rose Herbs, [phone] or www.mountainroseherbs.com.

RELATED ARTICLE: Spiced Chestnut Cake with Mascarpone and Chicory (Serves 8)

MICHAEL LAISKONIS

Sherry, "Pedro Ximenez Solera"

Alvear

Cordoba, Spain 1927

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directions

For the malted ice cream: In saucepan, combine milk and powdered milk and bring to boil. Meanwhile, combine sugar and malt powder in bowl. Place yolks in separate bowl and whisk malt mixture into yolks. Temper yolk mixture by adding one-third hot milk mixture to yolk mixture while whisking constantly. Whisk tempered yolk mixture back into hot milk mixture and place over medium heat, stirring constantly until mixture is slightly thickened or temperature reaches 180 degrees. Remove from heat and stir in chocolates until melted, then stir in rum and heavy cream. Chill in ice water bath. Cover and refrigerate 24 hours. Process in ice cream machine according to manufacturer's instructions. Set aside in freezer.

For the mascarpone cream: In saucepan, combine cream, sugar and honey and bring to boil. Remove from heat and carefully whisk in yolks. Squeeze excess water from gelatin and add to mixture, stirring until dissolved. Strain through fine-mesh sieve. Let cool to room temperature, mix in cheese and chill in bowl over ice water bath. Transfer to bowl of electric mixer fitted with whisk and beat until light and fluffy. Place mixture in pastry bag and fill eight 1 1/2 X 1 1/4-inch cylinder molds. Freeze in molds.

For the chestnut cake: Preheat oven to 350 degrees. In bowl, sift together flour, baking powder, baking soda and salt. In bowl of electric mixer fitted with whisk, combine yolks, oil, honey, and one ounce sugar. Whisk until pale and increased in volume, about five minutes. Add flour mixture and hazelnuts and mix until just combined. In separate bowl, whip egg whites and remaining sugar to soft peaks. Gently fold into batter and transfer to half sheet pan lined with parchment paper. Bake 20 to 25 minutes or until toothpick inserted in center comes out clean. Let cool and cut into 2 X 4-inch rectangles.

For the chicory anglaise: In saucepan, combine cream, sugar and chicory and bring to boil. Remove from heat and carefully whisk in yolks. Squeeze excess water from gelatin and add to mixture, stirring until dissolved. Strain through fine-mesh sieve. Chill in bowl over ice water bath.

For the whole wheat tuile: In bowl of electric mixer fitted with paddle, combine butter, sugar and honey. Mix until light and fluffy. Add egg whites a little at a time until mixture is smooth. Add flour and ginger and mix until just combined. Cover and chill in refrigerator one hour. Spread batter thinly on sheet pans lined with Silpats[R] in 3 X 3/4-inch rectangles. Bake until golden brown. While still warm, wrap tuiles around eight 2 1/2-inch ring molds.

To serve: Unmold mascarpone creams and place in refrigerator to temper. Spoon chicory anglaise on plate, and place a rectangle of chestnut cake on plate. Top cake with mascarpone cream, tuile and malted ice cream. Scatter cherries and candied chestnuts around, drizzle with honey and dust with cocoa powder. Serve immediately.

ingredients

For malted ice cream:

12 ounces milk
1/2 tablespoon nonfat powdered milk
3 ounces granulated sugar
2 ounces malt powder
3 egg yolks
1 1/2 ounces Valrhona[R] Jivara milk chocolate, coarsely chopped
1/2 ounce Valrhona[R] Caraibe dark chocolate, coarsely chopped
1/2 ounce dark rum
4 ounces heavy cream

For the mascarpone cream:

8 ounces heavy cream
2 ounces granulated sugar
1 ounce chestnut flower honey*
2 egg yolks
2 sheets gelatin, softened in cold water
8 ounces mascarpone cheese

For the chestnut cake:

5 ounces chestnut flour
1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
3/4 teaspoon baking soda
3/4 teaspoon fine sea salt
3 egg yolks
3 1/2 ounces olive oil
6 ounces chestnut flower honey*
2 ounces granulated sugar
3 ounces roasted hazelnuts, coarsely chopped
3 egg whites

For the chicory anglaise:

8 ounces heavy cream
3 ounces granulated sugar
1/2 ounce Leroux[R] liquid chicory**
2 egg yolks
1 sheet gelatin, softened in cold water

For the whole wheat tuile:

2 ounces unsalted butter
3 ounces confectioners' sugar
1 ounce chestnut flower honey*
2 egg whites
3 ounces whole wheat flour
Pinch of ground ginger

To serve:

24 griottine cherries***
12 candied chestnuts, halved
Chestnut flower honey*, as needed Cocoa powder, as needed

*Available through Eurogrocer, [phone] or www.eurogrocer.com.

**Available through www.leroux.fr

***Morello cherries in kirsch. Available through French Feast, [phone] or www.frenchfeast.com.

RELATED ARTICLE: Chestnut Mille-Feuille (Serves 8)

MICHAEL LAISKONIS

Shochu

Kiuchi Brewery

Ibaraki Prefecture, Japan NV

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

directions

For the chocolate chestnut cream: In saucepan, bring cream to boil. Place chocolate in bowl and slowly stir in hot cream to melt completely. Stir in chestnut puree and chill in refrigerator three hours. Transfer to bowl of electric mixer fitted with whisk and beat until light and fluffy. Place mixture in pastry bag fitted with medium plain tip and refrigerate until ready to use.

For the mandarin coulis: In saucepan, bring puree and juice to boil. In bowl, combine sugar and pectin, then whisk into puree mixture. Return to boil, remove from heat and let cool at room temperature.

For the chocolate plaquettes: Place acetate on sheet pan and spread thin layer of chocolate onto acetate. Let set slightly, then score chocolate into 24 1 3/4 X 4-inch rectangles. Let chocolate continue to set, placing another sheet pan on top to keep chocolate flat.

For the chestnut sable: In bowl of electric mixer fitted with paddle, combine butter, sugar and salt and mix until light and fluffy. Add eggs one at a time, scraping bowl after each addition. Add red bean paste and mix to incorporate. Sift together remaining ingredients and carefully fold into butter mixture. Chill dough in refrigerator one hour. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Roll dough out to 1/8-inch thick. Cut into 1 1/4 X 2 3/4-inch rectangles and arrange on sheet pan lined with parchment paper. Bake fifteen minutes or until golden brown. Remove from oven and trim to make clean edges while still warm. Set aside at room temperature.

For the chocolate chestnut biscuit: Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Sift cake flour and 1 ounce sugar together and reserve. Place chocolate in bowl and whisk in butter. Stir in yolks and trimoline. In separate bowl, whip egg whites with remaining sugar to soft peaks. Fold in flour mixture, then chocolate mixture. Stir in chestnuts. Transfer batter to half sheet pan lined with parchment paper. Bake about 13 minutes and let cool. Cut into 1 1/2 X 3-inch rectangles.

To serve: Place one plaquette on plate and top with biscuit, another plaquette, then sable. Pipe two lines of cream on sable and top with third plaquette. Garnish with chestnuts, red beans and a few grains of salt. Spoon mandarin coulis around and serve immediately.

ingredients

For the chocolate chestnut cream:

8 ounces heavy cream
5 ounces Valrhona[R] Jivara milk chocolate, coarsely chopped
2 ounces sweetened chestnut puree

For the mandarin coulis:

4 ounces Boiron mandarin puree*
2 ounces orange juice
2 ounces granulated sugar
1/4 ounce apple pectin

For the chocolate plaquettes:

12 ounces Plantations[R] 65% dark chocolate, tempered**

For the chestnut sable:

5 ounces unsalted butter, softened
3 1/2 ounces granulated sugar
Pinch of fine sea salt
2 eggs
3 1/2 ounces sweet red bean paste***
5 ounces cake flour
3 ounces chestnut flour
1/2 teaspoon baking powder
5 ounces blanched almond flour

For the chocolate chestnut biscuit:

2 ounces cake flour
2 ounces granulated sugar
5 1/2 ounces Valrhona[R] Jivara milk chocolate, melted
4 1/2 ounces unsalted butter, softened
4 egg yolks
1 ounce trimoline****
4 egg whites
2 ounces roasted, peeled and coarsely chopped chestnuts

For the garnish:

Chopped candied chestnuts Sweet prepared red beans***
Maldon[R] sea salt

*Available through L'Epicerie, [phone] or www.lepicerie.com

**Available through Vintage Chocolates, [phone] or www.echocolates.com.

***Made from azuki beans. Available through Asianwok, www.asianwok.com.

****A liquid invert sugar used in baking and sorbets. Available through Chef's Warehouse, www.chefswarehouse.com.

RELATED ARTICLE: Chestnut Cream Doughnuts with Hot Chocolate (Serves 8)

MICHAEL LAISKONIS

Banyuls Rimage

Mas Blanc "Dr. Parce"

Languedoc-Rousillon, France 2003

directions

For the doughnuts: In saucepan, warm milk over low heat. Remove from heat and stir in dash of sugar and yeast. Let stand 10 minutes to proof yeast. In bowl of electric mixer fitted with paddle, combine flours, two ounces sugar, nutmeg and pinch of salt. Mix in yeast mixture, then add egg and butter. Continue mixing on medium speed until elastic dough forms, about eight minutes. Transfer dough to separate bowl and refrigerate overnight. Roll dough 1/4-inch thick and cut into 1-inch circles. Cover with plastic and rest 30 minutes. Meanwhile, combine remaining sugar, cinnamon and salt in separate bowl. Heat oil in deep-fryer or tall-sided pot to 375 degrees. Fry doughnuts in batches, about one minute per side. Drain on paper towels and toss in cinnamon mixture. Set aside.

For the chestnut cream: In saucepan, combine milk, cream, zest and vanilla and bring to scald. In bowl, whisk together yolks, sugar and pastry cream powder until pale and increased in volume. Temper yolk mixture by adding one-third of hot milk mixture to yolk mixture while whisking constantly. Whisk tempered yolk mixture back into hot milk mixture and place over medium heat, stirring constantly until mixture is thick enough to coat back of wooden spoon. Whisk in chestnut puree and bourbon. Strain through fine-mesh sieve and stir in butter. Refrigerate until ready to use.

For the hot chocolate: In food processor fitted with metal blade, coarsely grind together almonds, vanilla bean, piloncillo and zest. Transfer to saucepan and combine with milk, cream, star anise, cinnamon and salt. Bring to boil, reduce heat to low and simmer 10 minutes. Whisk in chocolate and bourbon and continue simmering five minutes. Strain through fine-mesh sieve and keep warm.

To serve: Place chestnut cream in pastry bag fitted with small plain tip. Fill doughnuts with small amount of cream, and arrange on plate. Mix hot chocolate with immersion blender until frothy, transfer to cup and serve immediately.

ingredients

For the doughnuts:

4 1/2 ounces milk
5 ounces granulated sugar, plus more for proofing
1 teaspoon dry yeast
10 1/2 ounces all-purpose flour
1 ounce chestnut flour
Pinch of grated nutmeg
2 pinches fine sea salt
1 egg
2 ounces unsalted butter, melted
Pinch of ground Vietnamese cinnamon*
2 quarts canola oil

For the chestnut cream:

4 ounces milk
1 1/2 ounces heavy cream
Zest of I orange
1/2 vanilla bean, split and scraped
2 egg yolks
2 ounces granulated sugar
1/2 ounce hot process pastry cream powder**
4 1/2 ounces sweetened chestnut puree
1/2 ounce bourbon
1 ounce unsalted butter

For the hot chocolate:

1 1/2 ounces whole blanched almonds, toasted
1 vanilla bean, split and scraped
2 ounces piloncillo***
Zest of I orange
28 ounces milk
3 ounces heavy cream
1 star anise
1 stick cinnamon
Pinch of fine sea salt
6 ounces Plantations[R] 75% dark chocolate, coarsely chopped****
1 ounce bourbon

*Variety with high oil content and strong flavor. Available through The Spice House, [phone] or www.thespicehouse.com.

**Natural stabilizer for hot preparation of pastry cream. Available through Paris Gourmet, [phone] or www.parisgourmet.com.

***An unrefined sugar with high molasses content. Available through Gourmet Sleuth [phone] or www.gourmetsleuth.com.

****Available through Vintage Chocolates, [phone] or www.echocolates.com.

RELATED ARTICLE: Gianduja Parfait with Chestnut and Banana (Serves 8)

MICHAEL LAISKONIS

Hitachino Nest White Ale

Kiuchi Brewery

Ibaraki Prefecture, Japan

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

directions

For the chestnut creme brulee: In medium saucepan, combine sugar and water and bring to a boil. Cook over high heat until sugar is caramelized. Add cinnamon and zest and stir in cream. Bring to boil, remove from heat and carefully whisk in yolks, followed by puree and gelatin. Strain through fine-mesh sieve and pour into eight one-inch flexible silicone hemisphere molds. Freeze at least three hours.

For the sable: Sift together flour, baking powder and salt and set aside. In bowl of electric mixer fitted with paddle, cream butter and sugar until smooth. Add yolks a bit at a time, scraping down sides of bowl as necessary. Slowly add flour mixture, mixing until just incorporated. Wrap in plastic and refrigerate one hour. Preheat oven to 325 degrees. Roll dough 1/8-inch thick and cut into eight 2-inch diameter rounds. Transfer to sheet pan lined with parchment paper and bake until golden brown, about 12 minutes.

For the gianduja parfait: In bowl, combine chocolates and keep warm. In small saucepan, combine sugar and water and heat to 240 degrees. Meanwhile, place egg white and yolks in bowl of electric mixer fitted with whisk and mix at high speed. Slowly pour sugar mixture into egg mixture and continue mixing until cool. Squeeze excess water from gelatin, place in saucepan with one ounce of cream and warm to melt gelatin. Transfer to bowl and stir in chocolate. Whip remaining cream to soft peaks. Fold one quarter of whipped cream into chocolate mixture. Place three ounces egg mixture in separate bowl, fold in remaining whipped cream, then fold egg and cream mixture into chocolate mixture. Transfer parfait mixture to pastry bag and fill eight 2 1/2-inch diameter ring molds two-thirds full. Place one hemisphere of creme brulee in each mold and fill with remaining parfait mixture. Top each mold with sable and freeze at least three hours.

For the beurre noisette ice cream: In saucepan, cook butter over high heat until lightly browned. In separate saucepan, combine milk and powdered milk and heat until just warm. Combine three ounces sugar and water in separate saucepan and cook over high heat until caramelized. Pour warm milk mixture into caramel, stirring until smooth. In bowl, whisk yolks, corn starch and remaining sugar until pale and increased in volume. Temper yolk mixture by adding one-third of hot milk mixture to yolk mixture while whisking constantly. Whisk tempered yolk mixture back into hot milk mixture and whisk in browned butter. Return to heat and cook, stirring constantly just until mixture boils. Chill in bowl over ice water bath and refrigerate at least 12 hours before processing in ice cream machine according to manufacturer's instructions. Set aside in freezer.

For the chestnut praline cream: In small saucepan, heat two ounces cream until just warm. In bowl of electric mixer fitted with paddle, combine praline paste and chestnut puree. Slowly add warm cream. Squeeze excess water from gelatin and warm with remaining cream to melt gelatin. Slowly add gelatin mixture to praline mixture and let cool at room temperature. Chill in refrigerator until ready to use.

For the red wine caramel: In saucepan, combine sugar and water and cook until medium brown. In separate saucepan, gently heat wine. Remove sugar mixture from heat and slowly stir in wine. Return to heat and

stir until sugar is completely dissolved. Reduce until slightly thickened. Set aside at room temperature.

For the chestnut wafer: Preheat oven to 350 degrees. In bowl of electric mixer fitted with paddle, combine chestnut puree and sugar and cream until smooth, then mix in butter. Add egg white and spread mixture into desired shapes on sheet pan lined with Silpat[R]. Bake until golden, let cool and remove from Silpat[R]. Store in airtight container.

For the chocolate spray: Combine chocolate and cocoa butter and transfer to airless paint sprayer, assembled according to manufacturer's instructions. Invert and unmold parfaits and spray with chocolate mixture. Place parfaits in refrigerator to temper.

To serve: Spoon line of chestnut praline cream onto plate. Place parfait on plate. Combine sugar and flour and dust chestnut wafer. Arrange wafer next to parfait with banana slices and quenelle of ice cream. Drizzle with red wine caramel and serve.

ingredients

For the chestnut creme brulee:

1 1/2 ounces granulated sugar
1/2 ounce water
Pinch of ground Vietnamese cinnamon*
Zest of 1/2 orange
3 1/2 ounces heavy cream
1 egg yolk
1 ounce sweetened chestnut puree
1 sheet gelatin, softened in cold water

For the sable:

4 1/2 ounces all-purpose flour
1/2 tablespoon baking powder
Pinch of fine sea salt
3 ounces unsalted butter
3 ounces granulated sugar
2 egg yolks

For the gianduja parfait:

3 1/2 ounces hazelnut gianduja**, melted
2 1/2 ounces Valrhona[R] Jivara milk chocolate, melted
1 ounce unsweetened chocolate, melted
7 ounces granulated sugar
3 ounces water
1 egg white
3 egg yolks
1 1/2 sheets gelatin, softened in cold water
3 1/2 ounces heavy cream

For the beurre noisette ice cream:

2 1/2 ounces unsalted butter
16 ounces milk
1 ounce nonfat powdered milk
4 1/2 ounces granulated sugar
1 1/2 ounces water
4 egg yolks
1/2 tablespoon corn starch

For the chestnut praline cream:

3 ounces heavy cream
4 ounces praline paste
4 ounces sweetened chestnut puree
1/2 sheet gelatin, softened in cold water

For the red wine caramel:

4 1/2 ounces granulated sugar
2 ounces water
6 ounces red wine

For the chestnut wafer:

7 ounces sweetened chestnut puree
2 ounces granulated sugar
1/2 ounce unsalted butter, softened
1 egg white

For the chocolate spray:

8 ounces dark chocolate, melted
8 ounces cocoa butter melted

To serve:

1 ounce confectioners' sugar
1 ounce chestnut flour
2 bananas, sliced crosswise and caramelized

*Variety with high oil content and strong flavor. Available through The Spice House, [phone] or www.thespicehouse.com.

**Available through Chocosphere, [phone] or www.chocosphere.com

RELATED ARTICLE: Chestnut Blini with Sauteed Apples and Creme Fraiche Sorbet (Serves 8)

MICHAEL LAISKONIS

Riesling Grand Cru 'Schlossberg'

Domaine Weinbach

Alsace, France 2001

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

directions

For the creme fraiche sorbet: In saucepan, combine water, sugar, glucose and vanilla seeds and bring to boil. Remove from heat and refrigerate. When completely chilled, stir in creme fraiche and juice. Process in ice cream machine according to manufacturer's instructions. Set aside in freezer.

For the sauteed apples: Using small Parisienne scoop, carve balls out of apples. In saute pan, combine sugar, butter and cinnamon and cook over high heat until butter is bubbling and sugar begins to dissolve. Add apples and cook until lightly caramelized. Deglaze with cider and season with salt. Keep warm.

For the chestnut blini: In large bowl, proof yeast with 1/2 ounce sugar and water for 10 minutes, or until foamy. Stir in four ounces milk, remaining sugar, butter and chestnut flour. Beat one minute, cover with plastic and let rise in warm place for two hours. Stir in remaining milk, all-purpose flour, salt and yolk. Beat one minute, cover with plastic and let rise one hour or until doubled and bubbly. Gently fold whipped cream into batter. In separate bowl, whip egg white to soft peaks and carefully fold into batter until fully incorporated. Heat saute pan over medium heat, brush pan with butter and cook blini in batches, using about one tablespoon batter for each. Cook one minute per side or until golden. Remove from pan and repeat with remaining batter, brushing butter on pan as necessary. Hold, separated by parchment at room temperature.

To serve: Transfer blini to plate. Place quenelle of sorbet on plate and spoon apples around. Dust with confectioners' sugar and serve.

ingredients

For the creme fraiche sorbet:

24 ounces water
14 ounces granulated sugar
3 ounces glucose syrup
1 vanilla bean, split and scraped
16 ounces creme fraiche
1 1/2 ounces lemon juice

For the sauteed apples:

8 Granny Smith apples, peeled
2 ounces muscovado sugar*
2 ounces unsalted butter
1 cinnamon stick
2 ounces apple cider
Pinch of fine sea salt

For the chestnut blini:

1/4 tablespoon active dry yeast
1 ounce granulated sugar
1 ounce water, warm
8 ounces milk
1/2 ounce unsalted butter, melted
1 ounce chestnut flour
3 1/2 ounces all-purpose flour
Pinch of fine sea salt
1 egg yolk
3 ounces heavy cream, whipped to soft peaks
1 egg white
Melted unsalted butter, as needed

To serve:

Confectioners' sugar

*Very dark, coarse brown sugar with strong molasses flavor. Dark brown sugar may be substituted.

RELATED ARTICLE: Mignardises (Yields 32 pieces of each)

MICHAEL LAISKONIS

Maury

Domaine du Mas Amiel

Languedoc-Roussillon, France, 1998

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

directions

For the chestnut caramel bonbon: In saucepan, combine sugar, water and glucose and cook until deep golden brown. Add cream and stir until sugar mixture is dissolved. Remove from heat, let cool slightly, and whisk in butter and chestnuts. Let cool to room temperature. Brush small amount of milk chocolate into each cavity of 24-cavity polycarbonate dome mold and let set. Apply white chocolate to cavities and let set. Pour dark chocolate into mold to fill completely, tapping to release air bubbles. Invert mold and pour off excess, tapping to ensure thin coating. Leave inverted while chocolate sets, scraping off excess. Fill each cavity about 1/4 full with chestnut caramel. Let stand at room temperature several hours. Pour remaining dark chocolate over to seal bonbons, scraping off excess. Let set at room temperature, refrigerate 10 minutes and unmold. Store in cool, dry place up to one week.

For the chestnut ganache: In saucepan, bring cream to boil. Place milk chocolate in bowl and slowly stir in hot cream. Mix in chestnut puree, then butter. Pour onto Silpat[R]-lined sheet pan and let set at room temperature overnight. Remove from pan and apply thin layer of dark chocolate. Chill briefly, invert, and cut into 24 discs. Let stand four hours at room temperature, then dip each into remaining dark chocolate. Transfer to textured acetate sheet and let set. Garnish with gold leaf and store in cool, dry place up to one week.

For the chocolate nougat: In saucepan, combine 6 1/2 ounces sugar, glucose and water and heat to 310 degrees. Meanwhile, in separate saucepan, heat honey to 248 degrees, so that both reach desired temperatures at same time. In bowl of electric mixer fitted with whisk, combine egg white and remaining sugar. Begin whipping, slowly adding honey, then sugar mixture. While still whipping, use blowtorch to warm outside of bowl until nougat base stiffens. Remove whisk and replace with paddle. Add remaining ingredients to nougat and mix until incorporated. Place nougat between two Silpats[R] and roll to 1/2-inch thickness and let set. Cut into cubes and store tightly wrapped, up to one week.

To serve: Arrange room temperature chocolates on plates and serve.

ingredients

For the chestnut caramel bonbon:

8 1/2 ounces granulated sugar
1 1/2 ounces water
1/2 ounce glucose syrup
6 ounces heavy cream, warm
1 ounce salted butter
2 ounces roasted, peeled and coarsely chopped chestnuts
2 ounces milk chocolate, tempered
2 ounces white chocolate, tempered
8 ounces dark chocolate, tempered

For the chestnut ganache:

4 ounces heavy cream
6 ounces Valrhona[R] Jivara milk chocolate, coarsely chopped
2 ounces sweetened chestnut puree
1 ounce unsalted butter, softened
12 ounces dark chocolate, tempered
Edible gold leaf, as needed*

For the chocolate nougat:

7 ounces granulated sugar
1 1/2 ounces glucose syrup
2 1/2 ounces water
5 1/2 ounces chestnut flower honey**
1 egg white
3 1/2 ounces Plantations[R] 100% dark chocolate, melted***
1/2 ounce cocoa powder
6 ounces roasted, peeled and coarsely chopped chestnuts
2 ounces Sicilian pistachios
1 1/2 ounces candied orange peel, finely chopped

*Available through Gilded Planet, [phone] or www.gildedplanet.com.

**Available at Eurogrocer, [phone] or www.eurogrocer.com.

***Available through Vintage Chocolates, [phone] or www.echocolates.com.

RELATED ARTICLE: Lobster and Chestnut Ragout with Porcini Mushrooms (Serves 8)

TIM McKEE

Les Charrieres

Colin-Deleger et Fils

Chassagne-Montrachet, France 2002

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

directions

For the lobster: Remove lobster tails and claws, reserving bodies. In large pot, bring remaining ingredients to boil, let boil five minutes, then reduce heat to low. Add claws, cook three minutes, then add tails and continue to cook four more minutes. Strain immediately and chill claws and tails in ice water bath. Remove meat, keeping pieces whole, and reserve shells. Refrigerate lobster until ready to use.

For the lobster stock: Rinse reserved bodies and shells and remove organs. Coarsely crush shells. In heavy-bottomed pot, heat oil over medium-high heat, add shells and cook until bright red. Add onions, leeks, carrots, celery and fennel and continue cooking until vegetables are softened but not browned. Stir in tomatoes and simmer until juice evaporates. Add tomato paste, stirring for one minute, then deglaze with brandy. Pour in water, bring to simmer, and cook over low heat 1 to 1 1/2 hours, skimming occasionally. Strain through fine-mesh sieve and keep warm.

For the lobster roe sauce: Preheat oven to 350 degrees. In bowl, combine roe and oil. Transfer to ovenproof non-stick pan and roast until bright red and firm, about five minutes. Let cool. Place in blender with water and puree until smooth. Strain through medium-mesh sieve. In saucepan, bring wine and shallots to boil and reduce to two tablespoons. Whisk in butter one tablespoon at a time, then mix in lemon juice and roe mixture. Season with salt and keep warm.

For the porcini: In saute pan, heat oil over high heat. Season porcini with salt and pepper and add to pan. Saute until browned and slightly caramelized. Set aside keeping warm.

For the chestnut ragout: Melt butter in saute pan over medium-low heat and cook leeks until soft. Add chestnuts and cook one minute more. Pour in lobster stock, bring to boil and reduce to glaze. Stir in thyme, creme fraiche, fava beans and reserved lobster and heat gently until lobster is cooked through. Season with salt and pepper.

To serve: Transfer ragout onto plate, placing lobster on top. Spoon roe sauce around, top with porcini and serve.

ingredients

For the lobster:

4 1 1/2-pound lobsters
1 pint Riesling or Gewurztraminer
1 gallon water
2 leeks, coarsely chopped
2 carrots, peeled and coarsely chopped
3 ribs celery, coarsely chopped
1 bunch thyme
12 black peppercorns

For the lobster stock:

Lobster bodies and shells, from above
1/2 cup olive oil
2 yellow onions, peeled and coarsely chopped
2 leeks, coarsely chopped
3 carrots, peeled and coarsely chopped
2 ribs celery, coarsely chopped
2 fennel bulbs, cored and coarsely chopped
2 tomatoes, coarsely chopped
1/2 cup tomato paste
1 pint brandy
1/2 gallon cold water

For the lobster roe sauce:

4 ounces lobster roe
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 tablespoons water
1 cup white wine
2 shallots, peeled and thinly sliced
12 ounces butter
1 tablespoon lemon juice
Kosher salt to taste

For the porcini:

3 tablespoons olive oil
1 pound fresh porcini mushrooms, cleaned and sliced lengthwise 1/4-inch
  thick
Kosher salt and pepper to taste

For the chestnut ragout:

2 tablespoons butter
1 cup finely chopped leeks, white part only
8 ounces peeled chestnuts
1 pint lobster stock, from above
1 tablespoon thyme
1/2 cup creme fraiche
1/2 cup shelled fava beans
Salt and black pepper to taste

RELATED ARTICLE: Pan-Roasted Squab with Chestnuts, Brussels Sprouts and Chanterelles (Serves 4)

TIM McKEE

Pinot Noir "Evenstad Reserve"

Domaine Serene

Willamette Valley, Oregon 2001

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

directions

For the sweet potato gnocchi: In bowl, combine potatoes, cheese, egg and salt. Gently fold in flours until just combined. Roll dough into 1/2-inch diameter rope, and cut into 1/2-inch pieces. Place on sheet pan lined with parchment paper, dust with flour and refrigerate until ready to use.

For the duck liver sauce: Heat olive oil in saute pan over high heat. Season livers with salt and pepper and sear to medium rare. Add shallots to pan and cook one minute longer. Stir in vinegar and remove from pan. Chop livers with knife to paste consistency. Transfer to bowl and add extra virgin olive oil. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper and keep warm.

For the chanterelles: Preheat oven to 350 degrees. In bowl, toss chanterelles with oil, season with salt and pepper and roast on sheet pan until cooked through. Set aside at room temperature.

For the chestnuts: Heat butter in saute pan over medium heat. Add shallots and cook until soft. Stir in chestnuts and cook one minute more. Add Madeira and reduce to glaze, then add stock and reduce again to glaze. Season with salt and pepper, remove chestnuts with slotted spoon and set aside, reserving glaze.

For the Brussels sprouts: In saute pan, heat oil over high heat. Add leaves and cook until wilted and slightly browned.

To finish: Bring large pot of salted water to boil, add gnocchi and cook until they float. Cook one minute longer, drain and reserve. In saute pan, heat oil over high heat. Season breasts and legs with salt and pepper and place in pan. Cook breasts to rare and legs to medium-rare. Heat butter in separate saute pan over medium-low heat, add gnocchi and brown gently. Add chanterelles and chestnuts to pan and heat through. Gently reheat liver sauce and spoon onto plate. Transfer gnocchi mixture to plate, top with squab, and scatter Brussels sprout leaves around. Drizzle with reserved glaze and serve.

ingredients

For the sweet potato gnocchi:

7 ounces roasted, pureed sweet potato, warm
7 ounces ricotta cheese, drained
1 egg
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 cup chestnut flour
1/2 cup all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting

For the duck liver sauce:

4 tablespoons olive oil
8 ounces duck liver, trimmed
4 squab livers, trimmed
4 shallots, peeled and finely chopped
1 tablespoon red wine vinegar
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
Kosher salt and pepper to taste

For the chanterelles:

8 ounces chanterelle mushrooms, cleaned
1/4 cup olive oil
Kosher salt and pepper to taste

For the chestnuts:

2 tablespoons butter
2 shallots, finely chopped
8 ounces chestnuts
1 pint Madeira
1 quart real stock
Kosher salt and pepper to taste

For the Brussels sprouts:

1/4 cup olive oil
8 ounces Brussels sprouts, leaves separated, cores discarded
Kosher salt and pepper to taste

To finish:

3 tablespoons olive oil
4 squab, breasts and legs removed
1/4 cup clarified butter
Reserved chestnut glaze, from above
Kosher salt and pepper to taste

RELATED ARTICLE: Braised Pheasant and Chestnut Cappelletti with Pheasant Egg and Black Truffles (Serves 8)

TIM McKEE

Les Pierres

Domaine Pierre Gaillard

St. Joseph, France 2001

directions

For the pheasant filling: Heat oil in large saute pan. Season pheasant with salt and pepper and sear until skin is browned and crispy. Add onions, carrots and celery and cook until soft and starting to caramelize. Add stock and continue to cook until stock evaporates and pheasant is falling apart, adding water if necessary. Remove from heat and let cool. Shred pheasant and return to mixture, then stir in parsley and liver. Season with salt and pepper and refrigerate until ready to use.

For the cappelletti: Combine flours and salt and place on dry work surface. Form well in center and add eggs, yolks and wine. Gradually mix until most of flour is incorporated, and knead until texture is smooth, about 10 minutes. Knead five minutes more, wrap in plastic and let rest 30 minutes. Roll pasta to thinnest setting on pasta machine and cut into two-foot lengths. Cut each sheet, into three-inch squares. Place 1/2 teaspoon filling in center of square and fold into triangle. Join open edges together and pinch to seal. Repeat with remaining pasta and filling. Transfer cappelletti to sheet pan lined with parchment paper, dust with flour, and cover with damp towel. Refrigerate until ready to finish.

For the porcini puree: Preheat oven to 350 degrees. In bowl, toss mushrooms and olive oil, transfer to sheet pan and roast until cooked through. Transfer to food processor fitted with metal blade and add garlic, water and juice. Puree, slowly adding extra virgin olive oil. Add truffle oil, season with salt and keep warm.

To finish: In large pot, bring water and salt to boil, add cappelletti and cook until tender, about two minutes. Drain and set aside. In a saute pan, heat butter and cook eggs sunny-side up. Transfer porcini puree to plate and top with eggs. Add cappelletti to remaining butter in pan, toss gently and season with salt. Arrange cappelletti around egg and garnish with truffles and cheese.

ingredients

For the pheasant filling:

1/2 cup olive oil
1 1/2 pounds pheasant thighs, boned
1 onion, peeled and finely chopped
1 carrot, peeled and finely chopped
1 rib celery, finely chopped
1 quart chicken stock
2 tablespoons finely chopped parsley
3 ounces duck liver
Kosher salt and pepper to taste

For the cappelletti:

1 cup chestnut flour
1 1/4 cups all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting
1 teaspoon kosher salt
2 eggs
4 egg yolks
1/2 cup white wine
Pheasant filling, from above

For the porcini puree:

6 ounces porcini mushrooms, cleaned
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 cloves garlic, peeled
1 tablespoon water
1 1/2 tablespoons lemon juice
1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon truffle oil
Kosher salt to taste

To finish:

1 1/2 gallons water
1/4 cup kosher salt, plus more to taste
3/4 cup clarified butter
8 pheasant eggs

For the garnish:

Shaved black truffles
Shaved Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese.

RELATED ARTICLE: Chestnut Souffle with Endive Salad and Pancetta (Serves 8)

TIM McKEE

Cuvee Speciale Brut Grand Cru

Pierre Peters

Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, France 1998

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

directions

For the pancetta tuile: Preheat oven to 350 degrees. In saute pan, heat pancetta to render fat, but do not brown. Drain and discard fat. In small saucepan, combine corn syrup, sugar and water and heat to 240 degrees. Stir in pancetta and black pepper. Pour onto sheet pan lined with Silpat[R] and spread thinly. Place in oven and bake just until mixture stops bubbling, about five minutes. Remove from oven and let cool slightly. Transfer to cutting board and slice into 3X1-inch rectangles. Twist each rectangle slightly and store in cool, dry place.

For the chestnut souffle: Preheat oven to 350 degrees. In saucepan, melt butter over low heat and whisk in flour. Whisk constantly until flour is cooked but not browned. Stir in puree and cook five minutes more. Slowly whisk in milk until incorporated, and continue to whis until mixture thickens. Remove from heat, stir in salt and let cool. Mix in yolks and transfer to bowl to cool completely. In separate bowl, whisk whites with cream of tartar to soft peaks and fold into flour mixture. Fill eight 4-ounce prepared souffle molds 3/4 full with batter and bake 15 to 20 minutes. Let souffles fall and cool, then unmold. Set aside at room temperature.

For the pancetta vinaigrette: In saute pan, render pancetta until crisp and drain, reserving fat. In bowl, combine shallots, vinegar, salt and pepper. Slowly whisk in reserved fat and oil. Stir in pancetta and set aside at room temperature.

For the endive salad: In saute pan, render pancetta until crisp and drain, reserving fat. In same pan, saute chestnuts in reserved fat until lightly browned and drain on paper towels. In bowl, toss endives, micro greens, walnuts, chestnuts and pancetta with vinaigrette and season with salt and pepper.

To serve: Place souffle on plate. Insert three pieces of tuile in souffle, and top with salad mixture. Serve immediately.

ingredients

For the pancetta tuile:

4 ounces finely chopped pancetta
1/4 cup corn syrup
1/2 cup granulated sugar
2 tablespoons water
1 teaspoon coarsely ground
  black pepper

For the chestnut souffle:

2 ounces butter
1 1/2 ounces all-purpose flour
8 ounces chestnut puree
1 pint milk
2 teaspoons kosher salt
5 egg yolks
4 egg whites
1/4 teaspoon cream of tartar

For the pancetta vinaigrette:

4 ounces finely chopped pancetta
1 shallot, peeled and finely chopped
2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt.
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

For the endive salad:

4 ounces finely chopped pancetta
1 cup roasted, peeled and thinly sliced chestnuts
4 heads red endive, leaves trimmed of ruffled edges, sliced
  crosswise 1/8-inch thick
4 heads Belgian endive, leaves trimmed of ruffled edges,
  sliced crosswise 1/8-inch thick
2 ounces micro greens
1 cup toasted walnuts
Kosher salt and pepper to taste

RELATED ARTICLE: Chestnut-Crusted Veal Sweetbreads with Orange and Chestnut Confit (Serves 8)

TIM McKEE

Pinot Blanc

Domaine Blanck

Alsace, France 2001

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

directions

For the sweetbreads: In shallow dish, combine sweetbreads and milk, cover and refrigerate overnight. Drain and rinse under cold water five minutes. In pot, combine onions, carrots, celery, wine, juice and stock and bring to boil. Add sweetbreads and remaining ingredients and remove from heat. Let stand until sweetbreads are white all the way through, about 10 to 15 minutes. Drain and place sweetbreads in shallow pan, discarding vegetables and herbs. Place another pan with heavy weights on top and press overnight in refrigerator. Cut sweetbreads into 32 circles using 1-inch round cutter and refrigerate until ready to use.

For the orange powder: Preheat oven to 200 degrees. Spread peel on sheet pan in single layer and dry in oven overnight. Place in spice grinder and process to fine powder. Mix in allspice and sugar, and pass through fine-mesh sieve. Stir in salt and set aside.

For the dried orange segments: Preheat oven to 200 degrees. Toss segments in oil and place on sheet pan lined with parchment paper. Dry in oven five hours.

For the orange reduction: In saucepan, combine juice and sugar, bring to boil and reduce until slightly caramelized. Remove from heat and let cool.

For the chestnut confit: In saucepan, combine chestnuts, juice, sugar and zest, bring to boil and reduce until juice evaporates and mixture begins to caramelize. Stir in stock and reduce until chestnuts are glazed. Set aside and keep warm.

To serve: Heat 3/4 cup oil in saute pan. Saute brioche until golden brown on both sides, drain on paper towels and season with salt. Heat remaining oil in separate saute pan. Season sweetbreads with salt and pepper, dredge in flour and sear until browned and crispy. Transfer brioche to plate and top with sweetbreads and chestnut confit. Spoon reduction and confit glaze on plate, scatter segments around and dust with powder. Garnish with micro greens and serve immediately.

ingredients

For the sweetbreads:

3 pounds veal sweetbreads, trimmed
1/2 gallon milk
1 onion, peeled and coarsely chopped
2 carrots, peeled and coarsely chopped
2 ribs celery, coarsely chopped
1 pint white wine
1 cup orange juice
1 quart chicken stock
15 black peppercorns
1 small bunch thyme
1 bay leaf
3 tablespoons kosher salt

For the orange powder:

Peel from 8 oranges, cut into wide strips
1 teaspoon ground allspice
1 teaspoon granulated sugar
1 1/2 teaspoons Maldon[R] sea salt

For the dried orange segments:

4 oranges, peeled and segmented
3 tablespoons olive oil

For the orange reduction:

3 cups orange juice
3/4 cup granulated sugar

For the chestnut confit:

1 1/2 pounds roasted and peeled chestnuts
1 pint orange juice
1/2 cup granulated sugar
Zest of two oranges
2 cups veal stock

To serve:

1 1/4 cups olive oil
8 slices brioche, 3X5X1/4-inch each
1/2 cup chestnut flour
Kosher salt and pepper to taste

For the garnish:

Micro mustard greens