FiSh and CHiPS.

SOME THINGS FISHY

The tradition of fish and chips has very non-British roots. Fried fish, tempura, potatoes in general, hail from a distant place and time. The art of preparing fried fish is rooted in the culture of Sephardi Jews of Holland, Spain, and Portugal. Fish was fried in oil because it is the only cooking medium that remains agreeable when served cold, as it often was. The Italian-Jewish dish of sfogi in saor (sweet and sour sole) is still served every July during the Feast of the Redeemer to commemorate the end of the plague in 1567 (Cohen 99). The chilled dish, which consists of fried fish served with a sauce of onions, raisins, pine nuts, and vinegar, remains a specialty in Venetian restaurants (Del Conte 313). It was the Jesuit missionaries, a Roman Catholic society formed in 1534, who introduced the practice of frying fish to the Japanese. The term tempura is a derivative of the Portuguese tempuras, meaning Friday, the day on which Christians were forbidden to consume meat. By the mid 1600s, with the relocation of Jews to England, the preparation of fried, lean white fish followed. This, coupled with an emerging dependency on potatoes worldwide, may have been the precursor to England's national dish so reflective of its ethnic communities (Rose 59). At some point the relationship Brits had with the potato evolved from one of need to one of comfort.

DIG THAT

Well before preparation of fish and chips could be claimed by England, Europe had to await the potatoes arrival from the Andes in South America. Europe made the tubers acquaintance in the mid 1500s when Sir Francis Drake packed them as a souvenir from the new world. It would take several hundred years to integrate the tuber into the European diet. Until then the fish shops of London served a slab of fresh bread with fried fish. Perhaps the custom of serving a healthy accompaniment of chips came about in part due to the emerging popularity of spuds from the 1570s and 1640s when the Thirty Years War and low yielding crops stifled grain availability and led to widespread famine. A small province in China was one of the first places in the world to consume the sweet potato, in a desperate attempt to prevent thousands from starvation. So afraid of the potato was most of Europe that France placed a ban on the potatoes in 1617 for fear that eating the odd little tubers would cause leprosy. By the 1630s only a handf ul of countries, namely, Portugal, Spain, England, Ireland, and Switzerland, were willing to cultivate the "chestnut-like" root. Eventually, in the late 1600s potatoes were elevated from their former status of cattle feed to that of peasant food. It was not until the late 1700s that enough potatoes were cultivated in England to justify their sale at market. About 100 years later the first fish and chip house of note opened.

CREAM OF THE CROP

Malin's of Bow in East End is reputed by England's National Federation of Fish Friers to be London's oldest fish and chips house still in operation. Generally cod, haddock, skate, or any of the lean, thick white fleshed fish are best for the deep fried preparation (Davidson 300). The wonderful thing about frying is that it supplies even the most delicate of ingredients with a protective golden brown coat, making fish and chips most durable for street food.

TINY BUBBLES

It is important when frying that both fish and potatoes are submerged. The proper temperature is also a key factor to quickly sealing the outside and creating a protective "skin" that will prevent the absorption of excess oil. It has also been observed that a thicker cut potato will absorb less fat when fried. Prime frying temperatures range between 365-375 degrees. When a deep fat thermometer is not available, Joy of Cooking authors Irma S. Rombauer and Marion Rombauer Becker suggest placing a 1-inch cube of bread into preheated oil. If it browns evenly in one minute, the temperature of the oil is most assuredly 365 degrees. Once the first batch of fish or potatoes has been fried, it is important to allow the fat to return to the desired temperature. It is also important to remove any food particles from the oil between each batch to prevent any off colors or flavors from developing. Though any fat or lard with a high smoking point is suitable, the mellow flavors of vegetable oil allow the flavor of the fis h to soar.

Anne Willan's Fish and Chips

For the batter:

1 1/4 cups all-purpose flour, sifted

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 egg, separated

1 1/4 cups beer

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

For the fish:

1/2 cup all-purpose flour

12 2-ounce cod fillets, boneless and skinless

Salt, pepper, and malt vinegar to taste

For the batter, in a large bowl, combine the flour and salt. Add the egg yolk and half the beer and stir until smooth. Add the remaining beer and oil and stir until well combined and smooth. Season and set aside for 30 minutes. Beat the egg white to form stiff peaks. Add to the batter and using a rubber spatula fold to incorporate and set aside.

For the fish, prepare a deep fryer to 375 degrees. Dust each fillet with flour, patting off any excess. Liberally coat each fillet with batter, place in the fryer, and cook until golden brown, about five minutes. Remove from the oil and transfer the fish to a paper towel-lined sheet pan to drain. Season and serve (Willan 31).