Feels like the first time.

Maybe some Art Culinaire junkies affectionately recall our first five or so issues.

A young man holds a glass of champagne, just making his mark at Campton Place. Now his name is in a thousand lights in Las Vegas. His name is Bradley Ogden.

The city of Atlanta may have changed over the past fifteen years, but Mr. Seeger hasn't--he's right where we left him, stealthily making miracles behind the stove.

As for Mrs. Bastianich, or 'Lidia' as the world has come to know her, the question should be, "Where isn't she?"

Certainly not the newest talents in the food community, but three of the most recognized and well-respected. The commonality they share--their lasting contributions and enduring spirits.

LIDIA BASTIANICH & FORTUNATO NICOTRA

Felidia, New York, NY

"DON'T RECREATE, EXALT."

The florist had come to replace the weekly arrangement in the upstairs dining area. She hadn't quite finished her pruning but stepped away from her task--for just a moment.

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Enter Lidia Bastianich holding a broom and all business. She shakes her head at the dead leaves on the floor and starts sweeping, "I tell my apprentices that you get far by doing everything."

There was something wrong with the sight of Mrs. Bastianich sweeping. It was uncomfortable, akin to royalty bagging groceries. It was hard not to refrain from asking, "Can I do that for you?" She is, after all, classified by her contemporaries as a dignitary. Admired by more than one generation of food lovers. And since her initial startup days at her first restaurant, Buonavia, in Queens, she's stayed true and consistent to the traditions of her native Istria. Those origins have played a leading role, adding dimension to her traditional Italian cooking. And at the Italian crossroads, Istria picks up some of Europe's other flavors, notably Roman, Slavic, and Germanic.

To this day, in Mrs. Bastianich's kitchen, traditional methods are the ones that reign, the most alive. On a recently aired PBS broadcast of Lidia's Italian Kitchen, she pours polenta on a round cutting board and cuts it with twine. This is no "show." In fact, Lidia's grandparents owned a trattoria in Istria. There, they grew most of the food they sold, produced their own olive oil and wine, distilled their own grappa, cured their own meats, and ground their own flour for bread and pasta. Indeed, Lidia Bastianich experienced food in its purest and most unadulterated form.

She's committed to teaching these methods--whether the vehicle is her PBS series, book ventures, public appearances or restaurants. We wondered how she manages to spend any time at her flagship, Felidia. The answer she offers is straightforward, just like her personality, "How does one get rid of their baby?" She grins at Fortunato Nicotra, her executive chef. But also tells us there are real babies who also take up her time now--her five grandkids.

Fortunato, affectionately known as "Toto" cares for the menu day-to-day. He says he came to Felidia (from Sicily) "for six months." He's been here nine years. Lidia says, "I won't let him go." Neither will Fortunato's wife, Shelly (who also works at Felidia as her public relations assistant). About Shelly, he says, "She was the first person I talked to in this country who spoke Italian."

Lidia is a natural mentor. And today it's an integral part of her empire. She's proud of Lara Brumgnach, the pastry chef she's nurtured for the past six months. "We have a teacher/student relationship. You have to foster someone or something to make it grow. This restaurant has my spirit but it has Fortunato's food and cooking."

"We try to create something here that hasn't been done before. We treat it like building blocks. We respect the food. We talk about it and then make it happen."

She's very much involved in our photo shoot, offering to hold the fill card for the photographer, carefully so her "beautiful Amarene cherries shimmer in the light." She explains, "I want the cake to be a surprise. You know what I mean? Most cakes when they sit on a plate, you can look all the way inside. But I want the photo to only peer inside so you just get a glimpse." She has a very specific purpose hovering over this dessert, and has reminded me, in her very unique way, the special wonder a cake inspires.

By the end of the day, her distinguishable motherly figure is comforting. She's eased our initial moments of anxiety--of wanting to take away the broom, and pull up a chair for her while we sweep the floor. But we realize, she didn't get this far by giving up anything.

BRADLEY OGDEN

Bradley Ogden, Las Vegas NV

"WHO PUT SUGAR PACKETS IN THE SUGAR BOWLS?!"

"Hi Bradley, I was hoping to narrow down the dates for the shoot. You got the fax I sent over right? Any time that looks particularly good?"

"Yep, uh huh, sweetie. Got it right here. Let me just look at the calendar. The week after the 21st is ... excuse me just a minute will you, dear?"

His hand cups the receiver, but the words are still audible:

"Hey, who put the sugar packets in the sugar bowls? Come on guys, sugar cubes go in there."

He's back, but only for a brief second. "Sorry, hon ... hang on just a minute."

"WE DON'T USE PACKETS."

"Still there? Be right with you."

"WHY isn't there any copy paper in here? Can't we order the right supplies?"

"That's right. Cubes. In the bowls."

"Sorry about that. Now where were we?"

His namesake restaurant, just over a year old, a long ride from the home he maintains in Marin, California, has just been named the 2004 Best New Restaurant in America by the James Beard Foundation. It's an honor any chef on the block (or strip) would covet. And it went to the elder statesman from California. It's the first restaurant in Las Vegas ever to have won this title--impressive, since the competition continually raises the stakes.

We heard Bradley Ogden has been working seven days a week to get this gig off the ground--that's 12 hour days that don't end until after midnight. We believed it when we called the direct kitchen line on a random Tuesday night at 11:30pm PST.

A voice from Vegas: "Hello, kitchen."

"Hi, is Bradley there?"

"Speaking."

That said it all. But we wanted to know more.

So we made a pilgrimage to Sin City to visit Mr. Ogden out of his indigenous coastal habitat. What we found is a man who "doesn't mind the desert," who does indeed work hours a stagiaire might, with a weakness for Krispy Kremes, and whose golf handicap has climbed as his time in the kitchen has increased.

Bradley's son, Bryan, works in the kitchen with Dad and teases him incessantly--Bryan just doesn't let up. If it's not about the excessive donut intake--then it's about anything else that might dig. The banter between the two is akin to a vaudeville act.

Bryan was temporarily working the pastry station when we visited--slicing up a carrot cake. He plates Pop a slab and Bradley eats every bit while expediting; it's his lunch and dinner, along with endless cups of black coffee and a taste of what comes off the line. In one smooth sequence he finishes off his cake, scrapes his plate and plops it on the dish rack. Then he whirls around on his heels and it's back to the tickets. "We need three rib eyes. Two without potatoes. Must be on Atkins ..."

From the line, "Chef, what's Atkins?"

Without looking up, the other four executive sous chefs respond in unison, "It's the no carb thing."

The line here is a youthful bunch. The 'fellas' or 'guys' as Bradley refers to them, share something in common--they've spent time in the kitchen of Charlie Trotter's. All take direction well, an admirable quality. All are enterprising; each hands me his business card. There's Sven Mede and Adam Sobel, Gerald Chinn and Jeffrey Mauro--and of course, Bryan Ogden. Adam reveals that he had two wishes. The first: to get a new car. The second: to contribute to Art Culinaire. Both came true this day.

Bradley accepted the position at Caesars Palace under two conditions: 1) if the name Bradley Ogden was on the door, he'd have total control of the restaurant, and 2) he'd be working in the kitchen.

Certainly this is not the Bay Area, but if Ogden could take it with him, then he has. The space, designed by San Rafael, California's Engstrom Design Group, seems set among the redwoods, or rather 8,500 square feet of materials that include redwood beams. When the doors are shut you can almost imagine this restaurant situated somewhere serene like Tiburon or Mill Valley. But absent is the cry of the red tail hawk, replaced by cries of sorrow or joy from the gaming tables that flank the restaurant's perimeter. Regardless, it's comfortable here and after observing Bradley orchestrating the ebb and flow of the restaurant, it's obvious he's eased into this role; his effortless manner sets the tone.

Bradley whirls around to take a portrait with some visitors touring the kitchen, expedites, calls for runners, munches on a French fry, then responds to a request to greet a guest in the dining room. But then, he is on a mission, briskly walking back to the kitchen, glancing at those sugar bowls.

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GUENTER SEEGER

Seeger's, Atlanta

WHY WOULD I HIRE AN EMPLOYEE WHO CAN'T EVEN FIND THE BACK DOOR?

There's a young man who is applying for a kitchen staff job at Seeger's on 111 West Paces Ferry Road in Buckhead (a section of Atlanta, Georgia). He enters through the front door of the restaurant, instantly recognizes the chef who is standing in the dining room and says he is here to submit an application.

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Guenter Seeger, a man whose diction is comprised of wide spaces between his words, breathes instructions that are absolutely clear to him (but may not be to this young fellow). "Go to the backdoor." He turns his attention elsewhere, or so we think.

The miffed youngster disappears and after some time passes, ends up back in the main dining room--right where he started. Looking puzzled, the chef says nothing, only shaking his head. Obviously this is not the back door Seeger was referring to.

He hasn't changed much since last we met him in Issue 5. (His feature topic at that time: salads.) He's still intense. Focused. Completely absorbed by what he's been doing almost daily for the last 40 years since he was 13 years old. He agrees. "I don't know if I've changed, but I'm sure I've grown. At least I hope so."

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Seventeen years ago Art Culinaire visited Guenter Seeger in Atlanta when he was at the Ritz-Carlton, Buckhead. We tell him his food was advanced for the times, more modern than 1986 standards.

"I don't know if I was ahead of the times." He says it modestly, but then reconsiders his statement.

"When you look at a lot of menus now there are ice creams everywhere. Looking back at my salads 17 years ago I used sorbet on vegetables. Sometimes it takes people time to catch on. No one was cooking like that."

No one was cooking like that, as evidenced in our back issues. What Guenter Seeger served then still holds up today.

"You look at the cars 25 years ago and you look at the cars today. Those old cars are still very, very nice." A wry smile.

The articles published about Guenter Seeger are carefully worded--from Relais & Chateaux: "An original thinker who resists all forms of classification." There's another article titled, The Arrogance and the Ecstasy. We beg to differ, calling it less arrogance and more assurance.

We're sitting at the bar now. All the while Guenter and his girlfriend, Leslie, both chew methodically on long thin breadsticks that hint of cumin. But there are few hints offered about themselves. We seem to gather more information by what isn't said.

Another bite of breadstick brings a thought, "I remember 30 years ago." Guenter stops dead mid-sentence, pauses and quickly recalculates, adjusting the time to 28 years ago. "Back then we were cooking a la minute. All the vegetables. The noodles were rolled and cut by hand. People didn't understand what they were being served then. Did we get something out of doing that? Of course. But not money or fame. No, it's more personal."

Even more personal, the chef is content with Leslie by his side, talking about the contents of 'their' refrigerator. "There's champagne. Coffee beans. Cream for my coffee. And a few bottles of wine. What else do I need?" Then a glance next to him. "I asked Leslie when we moved in together, "do you want a refrigerator with a lot of food and no wine? Or would you like a refrigerator stocked with wine and no food?" Seeger manages another thin smile. (Apparently, she chose the latter.)

Our interview leaves a lot of open questions. There's complexity to this reticent man. We make another attempt at gleaning information from him. "What are you passionate about?"

"You want to spend the night here I will tell you a lot of things."

This time, we smile.

RELATED ARTICLE: Limoncello Tirami Su (Serves 10)

LIDIA BASTIANICH & FORTUNATO NICOTRA

Moscato d'Asti

Marcarini

Piedmont, Italy 2002

directions

For the tirami su: In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the whisk, combine egg whites and half of the sugar; whip to stiff peaks and set aside. In a bowl, combine remaining sugar, egg yolks, mascarpone, lemon oil and lemon zest; mix until smooth. Fold in whipped egg whites and set aside. In a bowl, combine limoncello and simple syrup, dip ladyfingers into limoncello syrup; strain and reserve remaining limoncello syrup. In a 12 X 9 1/2 X 2-inch dish, arrange one layer of ladyfingers, spread half of the mascarpone mixture over top and repeat. Cover and refrigerate for at least two hours; eight hours is recommended.

For the candied lemon chips: Preheat oven to 200 degrees. Dip lemon slices into simple syrup and place on a Silpat[R]-lined sheet pan. Bake for about two hours or until crisp. Set aside to cool.

For the candied kumquats: In a pot, combine kumquats and simple syrup; simmer over low heat until kumquats are somewhat translucent. Set aside to cool.

To finish the tirami su: In a pot, add reserved limoncello syrup; whisk in cornstarch and bring to a boil. Remove from heat and cool.

To serve: Spoon tirami su into dish and garnish with kumquats and lemon chips; drizzle with limoncello syrup.

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ingredients

For the tirami su:

1 1/2 cups pasteurized egg whites
1 cup granulated sugar
3/4 cup pasteurized egg yolks
2 pounds mascarpone cheese
1 1/2 teaspoons lemon oil
Zest of 3 lemons
1 1/2 pints limoncello liqueur*
1 pint simple syrup
6 1/2 dozen ladyfingers
2 teaspoons cornstarch

For the candied lemon chips:

2 lemons, thinly sliced
Simple syrup, as needed

For the candied kumquats:

30 kumquats, halved and pitted
1 1/2 pints simple syrup

* An Italian lemon liqueur. Available in Italian markets or wine and liquor stores.

RELATED ARTICLE: Moscato-Poached Pears and Grapes with Vanilla Ice Cream (Serves 3)

LIDIA BASTIANICH & FORTUNATO NICOTRA

Picolit

Rocca Bernarda

Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Italy 1997

directions

For the vanilla ice cream: In a pot over medium heat, bring milk, cream, half of the sugar and the vanilla bean to a boil. In a bowl, whisk together remaining sugar, egg yolks and cornstarch until smooth. Temper the yolk mixture, by adding one-third hot milk mixture while whisking constantly. Whisk tempered yolk mixture back into hot milk mixture and place over medium heat, stirring constantly until mixture is thick enough to coat the back of a wooden spoon. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve. Set aside in an ice water bath until chilled. Pour into an ice cream machine and freeze according to manufacturer's instructions. Set aside in freezer.

For the pears and grapes: Preheat oven to 375 degrees. In a bowl, combine wine, sugar, lemon juice, apricot jam and vanilla seeds; stir to combine. In a 12 X 9 1/2 X 2-inch pan, combine grapes and pears, cut side up, with wine syrup. Bake until pears are tender. Remove from oven and cool for about 10 minutes. Serve warm.

To serve: Arrange pears, grapes and a scoop of ice cream on a plate; drizzle with wine syrup.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

ingredients

For the vanilla ice cream:

1 cup whole milk
1 cup heavy cream
1/2 cup granulated sugar
1 vanilla bean, split and scraped
4 egg yolks
1/2 teaspoon cornstarch

For the pears and grapes:

2/3 cup Moscato d'Asti wine
1 cup granulated sugar
Juice of 2 lemons
2 tablespoons apricot jam
1/2 vanilla bean, split and scraped
2 cups seedless red grapes
3 Bosc pears (ripe but still firm), halved and cored

RELATED ARTICLE: Buffalo Milk Ricotta with Sage Honeycomb and Sesame Crackers (Serves 6)

LIDIA BASTIANICH & FORTUNATO NICOTRA

Tocai Plus

Bastianich Azienda Agricola

Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Italy 2001

directions

For the sesame crackers: Preheat oven to 350 degrees. In a bowl, mix flour, sugar and egg whites until combined. Add butter and whisk until incorporated. Add sesame seeds, stirring well. Spread batter on a Silpat[R]-lined sheet pan and bake until golden brown. Remove from oven and cut into desired shape. Set aside to cool.

To serve: Arrange ricotta, honeycomb and sesame crackers on a plate; drizzle with honey and garnish with sage flowers.

Note: Recipe for sesame crackers will yield approximately 40 2 X 2-inch crackers.

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ingredients

For the sesame crackers:

2 1/2 ounces all-purpose flour
2 1/2 ounces granulated sugar
3 medium egg whites
2 1/2 ounces butter, melted
1 tablespoon sesame seeds
1 tablespoon black sesame seeds

For the dish:

1 pound fresh buffalo milk ricotta*
1 1/2 pounds sage honeycomb*
3/4 cup sage honey*

For the garnish:

Sage flowers

* Available through Salvatore Corso at [phone].

RELATED ARTICLE: Pea Cake with Basil Ice Cream and Pistachio Brittle (Serves 4)

LIDIA BASTIANICH & FORTUNATO NICOTRA

Privilegio

Feudi di San Gregorio

Campania, Italy 2000

directions

For the basil ice cream: In a blender, puree basil with simple syrup until smooth and set aside. In a pot over medium heat, bring milk, cream, half of the sugar and the vanilla bean to a boil. In a bowl, whisk together remaining sugar, egg yolks and cornstarch until smooth. Temper the yolk mixture, by adding one-third hot milk mixture while whisking constantly. Whisk tempered yolk mixture back into hot milk mixture and place over medium heat, stirring constantly until mixture is thick enough to coat the back of a wooden spoon. Add basil puree and stir to combine. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve. Set aside in an ice water bath until chilled. Pour into an ice cream machine and freeze according to manufacturer's instructions. Set aside in freezer.

For the pea cake: Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Lightly butter 8-inch cake pan. In a pot of boiling water, blanch peas for about five minutes. Drain and transfer to a blender; puree peas with milk. Pass puree through a tamis to separate the pea skins; discard pea skins. In a bowl, whisk together egg yolks and sugar until smooth. Add yeast and salt; stirring well. Mix in pea puree and gently fold in whipped egg whites. Pour into cake pan and bake for 30 minutes or until golden brown. Remove from oven and cool. Cut into 12 wedges and set aside.

For the pistachio brittle: In a pot, bring sugar and water to a boil; cook until golden in color and syrupy. Remove from heat, stir in pistachios and pour on a Silpat[R]-lined sheet pan. Set aside to harden. Break into pieces.

To serve: Arrange pea cake on a plate and top with pieces of pistachio brittle and scoops of basil ice cream. Garnish with pea shoots.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

ingredients

For the basil ice cream:

1/2 bunch basil, stemmed and blanched
1/4 cup simple syrup
1 cup whole milk
1 cup heavy cream
1/2 cup granulated sugar
1 vailla bean, split and scraped
4 egg yolks
1/2 teaspoon cornstarch

For the pea cake:

12 ounces shelled fresh peas
1 tablespoon whole milk
3 eggs, separated and whites whipped to soft peaks
3/4 cup granulated sugar
1 teaspoon active dry yeast
Pinch of salt

For the pistachio brittle:

1 cup granulated sugar
1/2 cup water
3/4 cup pistachios, toasted

For the garnish:

Pea shoots

RELATED ARTICLE: Chocolate Zabaglione Cake with Amarene Cherries (Makes one 10-inch cake)

LIDIA BASTIANICH & FORTUNATO NICOTRA

Recioto di Valpolicella

La Marega

Veneto, Italy 2000

directions

For the sponge cake: Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Oil and lightly flour a 10 X 3-inch round cake pan and set aside. Sift together flour, cocoa, baking powder and baking soda and set aside. In a double-boiler, combine eggs and sugar and beat for about three minutes, until egg mixture is warm. Remove from heat and, using a hand-held mixer, beat egg mixture until double in volume. Fold in flour mixture and transfer to cake pan; bake for 25 minutes or until toothpick inserted into center comes out clean. Set aside to cool for at least two hours.

For the Amarene cherries: In a pan, heat Marsala and stir in sugar until dissolved. Remove from heat and add cherries, stirring to mix. Let macerate until needed.

For the mousse filling: In a small microwave safe dish, combine gelatin with two teaspoons of the water; set aside to soften. In a pot, combine remaining water and sugar and bring to a boil; cook to 250 degrees. In a double-boiler, whisk egg yolks until warm but not cooked. Remove from heat and gradually add sugar mixture, whisking constantly. In a microwave on low, melt softened gelatin; add gelatin, chocolate and Marsala to yolk mixture while whisking. Fold in whipped cream and cocoa powder; incorporate well. Set aside in refrigerator.

To assemble the cake: Unmold the sponge cake and slice horizontally into three even layers. Place one layer in bottom of a 10-inch spring form pan; brush liberally with Amarene cherry syrup and distribute one-third of the cherries; spread half of the mousse filling on top of cherries. Repeat, ending with remaining sponge cake layer on top. Set aside in refrigerator.

For the chocolate zabaglione: In a copper bowl, whisk egg yolks, Marsala and sugar together. Place over a pot of simmering water; whisk constantly until light, fluffy and hot. Remove from heat and fold in melted chocolate until thoroughly incorporated. (The zabaglione cannot be held.)

To serve: Garnish cake with remaining Amarene cherries and syrup; slice and serve with chocolate zabaglione on the side.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

ingredients

For the sponge cake:

2 cups all-purpose flour
1/2 cup cocoa powder
1/4 teaspoon baking powder
1/4 teaspoon baking soda
6 eggs
1 1/2 cups granulated sugar

For the Amarene cherries:

1/2 cup dry Marsala
2 tablespoons confectioners' sugar
1 cup Amarene cherries in syrup*

For the mousse filling:

1 teaspoon gelatin
1/4 cup plus 2 teaspoons water, chilled
1/3 cup plus 1 tablespoon granulated sugar
7 egg yolks, room temperature
8 ounces semisweet chocolate, melted
1/2 cup dry Marsala
1 1/2 cups heavy cream, whipped to stiff peaks
1 tablespoon cocoa powder

For the chocolate zabaglione:

6 egg yolks, room temperature
1/4 cup dry Marsala
1/4 cup granulated sugar
2 ounces semisweet chocolate, melted

* An Italian small, tart cherry typically preserved in simple syrup. Available through Dairyland at [phone].

RELATED ARTICLE: California Vegetable Stack (Serves 4)

BRADLEY OGDEN

Pinot Gris Reserve

King Estate Winery

Willamette Valley, OR 2002

directions

For the broken vinaigrette: Combine vinegar and oil and season with salt and pepper to taste. Set aside.

For the pesto: In a food processor fitted with the metal blade, roughly chop basil leaves; add pine nuts and gradually add oil, pureeing to a rough paste. Season with salt and pepper to taste and set aside.

For the vegetables: Preheat oven to 350 degrees. In a pot, combine water, orange juice and rinds; place a steamer over top, add the red beet and bring orange-water to a boil. Reduce to a simmer and steam for about one hour or until tender. Peel the beet while still hot using a towel and a knife to pull skin away; cool to room temperature. Thinly slice and set aside. Toss Chioggia beet slices with two tablespoons of the extra virgin olive oil and half of the Zinfandel vinegar; season with salt and pepper to taste and set aside to marinate. Cut off skin of yellow squash, leaving 1/8-inch of flesh attached, and discard the interior flesh; finely dice skin. Combine squash, fennel fronds, one tablespoon of the extra virgin olive oil and sherry vinegar; season with salt and pepper to taste, mix well and set aside to marinate. In a large saute pan, place torpedo onions flat sides down and add vegetable stock and remaining Zinfandel vinegar; bring to a boil. Reduce to a simmer, cooking until tender. Remove onions and set aside; reduce cooking liquid to a light syrup consistency. Stir in one tablespoon of the extra virgin olive oil and season with salt and pepper to taste. Pour glaze over onions and set aside to cool. In a saute pan, heat grapeseed oil; saute garlic for about 30 seconds; add porcini mushrooms and lightly brown. Transfer to oven and roast for about 10 minutes, turning over once. Return to stovetop and deglaze with half of the mushroom stock; reduce liquid by half. Add sage and remaining mushroom stock and reduce by three-quarters. Remove garlic cloves and stir in balsamic vinegar and one tablespoon of the extra virgin olive oil; season with salt and pepper to taste and set aside, keeping warm. Just before serving, toss asparagus tips with remaining extra virgin olive oil and Champagne vinegar; season with salt and pepper to taste.

For the porcini puree: In a saucepan, heat grapeseed oil and saute onions until translucent. Add porcini scraps, season with salt and pepper to taste and lightly caramelize; deglaze with mushroom stock. Bring to boil and reduce to a simmer; cooking for 30 minutes. Transfer to a blender and puree until smooth. Add balsamic vinegar, extra virgin olive oil and salt and pepper to taste. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve into a pot. Set aside, keeping warm.

For the porcini tempura: Preheat deep-fryer to 350 degrees. In a bowl, combine flour and cornstarch; season with salt and pepper to taste and whisk in soda water until smooth. Using a skewer, dip porcini mushrooms into batter, allowing excess to drip off. Deep-fry porcinis, holding just under surface of the oil until lightly brown. Drain on paper towels, remove skewers and season with salt and pepper to taste.

To serve: Spoon porcini puree onto plate; layer roasted porcinis, red beets, asparagus, torpedo onions and Chioggia beets. Top with yellow squash and porcini tempura; garnish with fennel fronds. Dot plate with pesto and drizzle with broken vinaigrette.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

ingredients

For the broken vinaigrette:

1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar
1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
Salt and pepper to taste

For the pesto:

1 bunch basil, stemmed
1/4 cup pine nuts, lightly toasted
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
Salt and pepper to taste

For the vegetables:

2 quarts water
Juice of 4 oranges, rinds reserved
1 large red beet
2 small Chioggia beets, peeled and thinly sliced
1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons Zinfandel vinegar*
1 yellow squash
2 tablespoons finely chopped fennel fronds
1 teaspoon sherry vinegar
12 torpedo onions, halved lengthwise and rinsed
1 quart vegetable stock
1 tablespoon grapeseed oil
4 cloves garlic, crushed
1 pound porcini mushrooms, cleaned, halved and scraps reserved
1 pint mushroom stock
1 sprig sage
2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
24 jumbo asparagus tips, blanched
2 teaspoons Champagne vinegar
Salt and pepper to taste

For the porcini puree:

1 tablespoon grapeseed oil
1 yellow onion, peeled and sliced
1 cup reserved porcini scraps, rinsed and drained
1 pint mushroom stock
Balsamic vinegar to taste
Extra virgin olive oil to taste
Salt and pepper to taste

For the porcini tempura:

1/4 cup all-purpose flour
1/4 cup cornstarch
1/3 cup soda water
4 large porcini mushrooms, cleaned and halved
Salt and pepper to taste

For the garnish:

Fennel fronds

* Available through Sparrow Lane Farm at [phone].

RELATED ARTICLE: Sauteed Sweetbreads with English Pea Tortellini (Serves 6)

BRADLEY OGDEN

Chardonnay

Kongsgaard

Nopa Valley, CA 2000

directions

For the sweetbreads: Soak sweetbreads in milk in refrigerator for eight hours; blanch and remove outer membrane.

For the English pea tortellini: In a medium bowl, mix together flours, salt, eggs and half of the oil until just combined. (Add water by the tablespoon if mixture is too dry.) Transfer dough to a lightly-floured work surface and knead until smooth, about 10 minutes. Cover dough with plastic wrap and set aside to rest for a minimum of two hours. In a saute pan, heat remaining oil and add onions and garlic; saute until translucent. Transfer to a bowl and add peas, ricotta, parmesan, lemon zest and mint; season with salt and pepper to taste and mix well. Set aside in refrigerator. Divide dough into four pieces and roll each through a pasta machine, starting on the thickest setting and finishing on the second to thinnest setting. Cut into 2 X 2-inch squares. Brush edges of pasta squares with water and place one teaspoon of pea filling in center; fold to form a triangle, pressing edges to seal. Gently fold two corners under filling and press together; fold top point back over filling. Set aside on a heavily-floured sheet pan.

For the onion relish: In a small pot, heat oil and butter; add onions and saute until translucent. Add remaining ingredients and cook until onions are tender; remove clove and sage. Season with salt and pepper to taste and set aside, keeping warm.

For the parmesan foam: In a pot, combine all ingredients; over low heat, simmer for 10 minutes. Cover and set aside to cool; strain through a fine-mesh sieve and season with salt and pepper to taste. Just before serving heat and froth with a hand-held immersion blender.

For the vegetables: Toss vegetables in vinegar and oil and season with salt and pepper to taste. Set aside.

For the English pea puree: Combine all ingredients in a food processor fitted with the metal blade; puree until smooth. Season with salt and pepper to taste and set aside.

For the chanterelles: In a hot saute pan, add butter and sear chanterelles. Reduce heat and add shallots and garlic; saute for one minute. Add stock and reduce liquid to almost dry. Remove from heat and add parsley and season with vinegar, salt and pepper to taste. Set aside, keeping warm.

To finish the dish: For the sweetbreads, in a spice grinder, pulverize dehydrated carrot, onion and celery into a powder; combine with buckwheat flour and mix well. Cut sweetbreads into 18 even pieces, season with salt and pepper to taste and coat with buckwheat flour mixture. In a saute pan, heat oil and add sweetbreads; saute until golden brown. Add butter, thyme and garlic; baste sweetbreads with butter for one minute. Set aside, keeping warm. Bring a pot of salted water to a boil, add tortellini and simmer until cooked. Remove from heat and drain. Toss in butter to coat.

To serve: Place sweetbreads, tortellini, chanterelles and vegetables on plate; add onion relish, pea puree and parmesan foam. Arrange bacon, drizzle with honey and sprinkle dish with fennel sprouts.

Note: Recipe for English pea tortellini yields approximately 45 tortellini.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

ingredients

For the sweetbreads:

2 pounds veal sweetbreads
Milk, as needed
1 dehydrated carrot, roughly chopped
1 dehydrated onion, roughly chopped
1 rib dehydrated celery, roughly chopped
2 tablespoons buckwheat flour
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 tablespoons butter
1 sprig thyme
1 clove garlic, peeled
Salt and pepper to taste

For the English pea tortellini:

1 1/4 cups all-purpose flour
3/4 cup semolina flour
1/2 teaspoon salt
3 eggs
2 tablespoons olive oil
1/2 onion, peeled and finely chopped
1 clove garlic, peeled and finely chopped
1 cup shelled English peas, blanched and mashed
1/4 cup ricotta
2 tablespoons grated parmesan
Zest of 1 lemon
1 sprig mint, stemmed and finely chopped
2 tablespoons butter, softened
Kosher salt and pepper to taste

For the onion relish:

1 tablespoon olive oil
2 tablespoons butter
1 Vidalia onion, peeled and finely chopped
1 whole clove
1 sprig sage
1 tablespoon honey
1 tablespoon white wine vinegar
Salt and pepper to taste

For the parmesan foam:

1/2 cup 2% milk
1/4 cup heavy cream
1 tablespoon honey
3 sprigs thyme
4 ounces parmesan rind
Salt and pepper to taste

For the vegetables:

24 baby radishes, blanched*
12 baby carrots, blanched*
1/2 cup shelled English peas, blanched
2 teaspoons white wine vinegar
1 tablespoon olive oil
Salt and pepper to taste

For the English pea puree:

1 cup shelled English peas, blanched
2 tablespoons vegetable stock
2 tablespoons olive oil
Zest of 1 lemon
Salt and pepper to taste

For the chanterelles:

1 tablespoon butter
1 pound baby chanterelles
1/2 shallot, peeled and finely chopped
2 cloves garlic, peeled and finely chopped
1 tablespoon vegetable stock
Pinch of finely chopped parsley
Sherry vinegar to taste
Salt and pepper to taste

For the garnish:

Bacon, thinly sliced and cooked
Honey
Micro fennel sprouts

* Available through The Chef's Garden at [phone].

RELATED ARTICLE: Steamed Pacific Cod with Marinated Tomatoes and Eggplant Puree (Serves 4)

BRADLEY OGDEN

Sauvignon Blanc, L'Apres-Midi

Peter Michael Winery

Knight's Valley, Sonoma County, CA 2002

directions

For the yellow tomato sorbet: In a saute pan, heat oil; add tomatoes and onions, cooking for about 45 minutes. Transfer to a blender, add remaining ingredients and puree until smooth. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve and pour into a Pacojet beaker; freeze for 24 hours. Just before serving, make sorbet following Pacojet's instructions. If using a traditional ice cream machine, chill tomato mixture in an ice water bath. Pour in an ice cream machine and freeze according to manufacturer's instructions. Set aside into freezer.

For the tomato gelee: Combine tomatoes, basil stems, gin, brown sugar, vinegar and fleur de sel; mix well and set aside for two hours. Strain tomato mixture through a fine-mesh sieve, pressing on solids to extract all tomato liquid (yielding approximately one pint); strain again through a coffee filter-lined fine-mesh sieve. In a pot, add tomato liquid and gelatin; heat until gelatin is dissolved. Pour into dish so gelee is about 1/4-inch deep. Refrigerate until set. Cut into small cubes and set aside, keeping cool.

For the arugula sauce: In a saute pan, heat oil; saute arugula until bright green. Cool in an ice water bath; transfer to a blender and add lemon zest, ice water and season with salt to taste; puree until smooth. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve and set aside.

For the eggplant puree: Preheat oven to 300 degrees and prepare a medium-hot grill. Score flesh of eggplant and insert garlic slices; brush with balsamic vinegar and two tablespoons of the olive oil; season with salt and pepper to taste. Roast two eggplant halves in oven and grill the other halves until tender and caramelized. Peel skin and transfer flesh to a blender; add remaining oil, oregano, and sesame seeds, and balsamic vinegar, salt and pepper to taste. Puree until smooth and pass through a tamis. Set aside, keeping warm.

For the marinated tomatoes: Chill tomatoes in an ice water bath and blanch in boiling water for seven seconds; shock in ice water and drain. Peel and cut tomatoes into desired shapes. Combine with oil, vinegar, basil and chives; marinate until needed. Just before serving, season with sea salt and pepper to taste.

For the Pacific cod: Season cod fillets with salt and pepper to taste. Brush steam pan with olive oil and add fish; steam to desired doneness. Drizzle fillets with lemon juice and sprinkle with red sea salt to taste.

To serve: Spoon eggplant puree onto plate and drizzle with arugula sauce. Arrange marinated tomatoes and tomato gelee with parmesan shavings, basil leaves, eggplant chips and anchovy fillets. Place cod on eggplant puree and garnish with croutons, fried capers, micro fennel and a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil. Dot plate with balsamic vinegar; add a quenelle of tomato sorbet.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

ingredients

For the yellow tomato sorbet:*

1 tablespoon grapeseed oil
2 1/2 pounds yellow tomatoes, peeled, seeded and roughly chopped
1/2 Vidalia onion, peeled and finely chopped
1/2 teaspoon finely chopped chives
1/2 teaspoon finely chopped parsley
1/2 teaspoon finely chopped tarragon
2 tablespoons Champagne vinegar
1 cup simple syrup
Pinch of ground turmeric
Kosher salt and pepper to taste

For the tomato gelee:

3 pounds heirloom tomatoes, quartered
6 basil stems, roughly chopped
1/4 cup gin
2 tablespoons brown sugar
2 tablespoons white wine vinegar
2 tablespoons fleur de sel
3 1/2 sheets gelatin, softened

For the arugula sauce:

2 tablespoons grapeseed oil
8 ounces arugula
Zest of 1/2 lemon
1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons ice water
Salt to taste

For the eggplant puree:

2 large eggplants, halved lengthwise
4 cloves garlic, peeled and sliced
Balsamic vinegar, as needed
1/3 cup olive oil
1 tablespoon oregano leaves
1 tablespoon sesame seeds, toasted
Salt and pepper to taste

For the marinated tomatoes:

1 Valencia tomato, stemmed
1 yellow heirloom tomato, stemmed and scored
1 Green Zebra tomato, stemmed
12 Sweet 100 tomatoes, stemmed and scored
3 tablespoons DaVero Extra Virgin Olive Oil**
1 tablespoon Champagne vinegar
1 sprig basil, stemmed and chiffonade
2 tablespoons finely chopped chives
Sea salt and pepper to taste

For the Pacific cod:

4 8-ounce Pacific cod fillets, cleaned
Olive oil, as needed
Juice of 1 lemon
Hawaiian red sea salt to taste***
Salt and pepper to taste

For the garnish:

Parmesan shavings
Basil leaves, fried
Eggplant chips
White anchovy fillets, rolled
Croutons
Capers, fried
Micro fennel sprigs
DaVero Extra Virgin Olive Oil**
50 year-old balsamic vinegar

* This sorbet is made using a Pacojet; a type of machine that makes ice creams and sorbets to order. For more information, go to www.pacojet.com.

** Available through DaVero Ingredienti at www.davero.com.

*** Available through The Spice House at www.thespicehouse.com.

RELATED ARTICLE: "Anatomy of a Chicken" with Quinoa and Verjus Gelee Salad (Serves 2)

BRADLEY OGDEN

Brut Rose Champagne

Billecart-Salmon

Champagne, France NV

directions

For the quinoa and verjus gelee salad: In a pot, combine verjus, sugar and agar-agar; let sit for 10 minutes then bring to a boil. Pour into a dish to about 1/8-inch deep. Refrigerate until set. In a pot, heat oil; add onions and garlic and saute until translucent. Add quinoa and brown lightly; add stock, thyme and bay leaf; bring to a boil. Reduce to a simmer and season with salt and pepper to taste; cover and cook until tender. Fluff with a fork and discard thyme and bay leaf. Set aside to cool. Just before serving, cut verjus gelee into 1 X 1/4-inch pieces and toss with quinoa.

For the onion fondue: In a saute pan over low heat, melt butter. Add onions, onion juice and thyme; saute until onions are very soft, about 25 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste and set aside, keeping warm.

For the white soy emulsion: In a saucepan, heat oil; add shallots, garlic, ginger and lemongrass and saute until shallots are translucent. Add white soy sauce and milk, season with salt and pepper to taste and bring to a simmer. Remove from heat and cool to room temperature. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve and set aside. Just before serving, heat and froth using a hand-held immersion blender.

For the chicken: Preheat oven to 325 degrees. Preheat deep-fryer to 350 degrees, Remove wishbone, leaving a 'nugget' of meat at the bone intersection; take breasts off bones; remove 'oysters' from inside thighs. (Use remaining chicken for another dish.) Pull skin off breasts and brush skin with olive oil; season with salt and pepper to taste; bake skins between two sheet pans until golden brown and crisp; cool on a wire rack and cut into desired shape. Set aside. Reduce oven temperature to 295 degrees. Season breasts with salt and pepper to taste; heat a saute pan with half of the butter; saute chicken breasts until golden brown. Brush with peanut butter and roast in oven until done. Let rest for five minutes and cut into 1/2-inch thick slices. Season wishbone 'nugget' with salt and pepper to taste. In a saute pan, melt remaining butter; saute wishbone 'nugget' with garlic until brown and cooked through. Season 'oysters' with salt and pepper to taste; coat with bread-crumbs and deep-fry until golden brown and cooked through. Drain on paper towels.

For the braised iceberg lettuce: In a saute pan, heat oil; saute ginger and garlic for one minute. Add oyster and soy sauces; simmer for one minute and add lettuce, cooking until tender. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

To serve: Arrange separate piles of onion fondue, quinoa and verjus gelee salad and braised iceberg lettuce. Top onion fondue with 'oyster' and purple torpedo onions; place chicken breast over quinoa, arrange crisp chicken skin and garnish with orange zest and segments, parsley and chives; top lettuce with wishbone 'nugget' and sprinkle plate with thyme blossoms. Drizzle with white soy emulsion.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

ingredients

For the quinoa and verjus gelee salad:

1 cup red verjus*
1 tablespoon granulated sugar
1 tablespoon agar-agar powder
2 teaspoons grapeseed oil
1/4 small onion, peeled and finely chopped
1 clove garlic, peeled and finely chopped
1/4 cup quinoa
1/2 cup chicken stock, hot
1 sprig thyme
1/2 bay leaf
Salt and pepper to taste

For the onion fondue:

2 tablespoons butter
1 onion, peeled and finely chopped
2 tablespoons onion juice**
1 sprig thyme
Salt and pepper to taste

For the white soy emulsion:

1 tablespoon grapeseed oil
2 shallots, peeled and finely chopped
2 cloves garlic, peeled and finely chopped
2-inch piece ginger, peeled and finely chopped
1/2 stalk lemongrass, crushed and finely chopped
1/4 cup white soy sauce
1 1/2 cups whole milk
Salt and white pepper to taste

For the chicken:

1 whole chicken
Olive oil for brushing
2 ounces butter
1/4 cup peanut butter
1 clove garlic, peeled and finely chopped
Breadcrumbs, as needed
Salt and pepper to taste

For the braised iceberg lettuce:

2 teaspoons grapeseed oil
1/2-inch piece ginger, peeled and finely chopped
1 clove garlic, peeled and finely chopped
1/2 teaspoon oyster sauce
1/2 teaspoon soy sauce
1/2 head iceberg lettuce, thinly sliced
Salt and pepper to taste

For the garnish:

Baby purple torpedo onions, sauteed in butter***
Orange zest
Orange segments, broken
Parsley, stemmed and roughly chopped
Chives, finely chopped
Thyme blossoms

* Available through Minus 8 at www.minus8vinegar.com.

** Use a juice extractor.

*** Available through The Chef's Garden at [phone].

RELATED ARTICLE: Crispy Soft-Shell Crab Sandwich (Serves 4)

BRADLEY OGDEN

Chardonnay, Hudson Vineyard

Ramey Wine Cellars

Carneros, Napa Valley, CA 2001

directions

For the oven-dried tomatoes: Preheat oven to 150 degrees (the pilot light alone may provide adequate heat). Toss tomatoes in vinegars, oil and season with salt and pepper to taste. Place on a wire rack-lined sheet pan and bake until shriveled, about eight hours. Set aside to cool.

For the soft-shell crab sandwiches: Preheat oven to 275 degrees. Brush crabs with butter; sprinkle with lemon zest and spices; season with salt and pepper to taste. Place on a Silpat[R]-lined sheet pan; cover with a piece of parchment and top with another sheet pan; bake until dry and crispy, about six hours. Set aside. Combine peekytoe crabmeat, celery, mayonnaise, lemon juice and season with salt and pepper to taste; mix well. Set aside in refrigerator.

For the pickled morel mushrooms: In a pot, combine water, vinegar and sugar; bring to a boil. Add parsley stems, bay leaf and spices; simmer and reduce by one-third. Combine morels with pickling liquid, season with salt and pepper to taste and cool in an ice water bath. Set aside in refrigerator.

For the spicy melon salad: Combine lemon and lime zests and juices, jalapeno, vinegar and mint; mix well. Add melon cubes and balls; toss to combine. Set aside in refrigerator to marinate (no more than two hours).

For the melon emulsion: Combine all ingredients and season with salt and pepper to taste. Just before serving, froth using a hand-held immersion blender.

To serve: Place a pile of pickled morels on plate. Layer bottom of soft-shell crab with oven-dried tomatoes and peekytoe crabmeat mixture; finish with top shell. Garnish with wild watercress and opal basil. Arrange spicy melon salad on plate and top with creme fraiche, jalapeno and osetra caviar. Spoon spicy melon emulsion around dish.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

ingredients

For the oven-dried tomatoes:

8 Sweet 100 tomatoes, halved lengthwise
8 Thumbprint tomatoes, halved lengthwise*
2 teaspoons sherry vinegar
1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar
2 tablespoons olive oil
Kosher salt and pepper to taste

For the soft-shell crab sandwiches:

4 soft-shell crabs, cleaned, halved lengthwise and separate top shell
  from bottom
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
Zest and juice of 1 lemon
1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper, toasted
1/4 teaspoon ground allspice, toasted
1/4 teaspoon ground mustard, toasted
1/4 teaspoon ground fennel, toasted
12 ounces peekytoe crab leg meat
1 rib celery, finely chopped
3 tablespoons mayonnaise
Kosher salt and pepper to taste

For the pickled morel mushrooms:

1 cup water
1 cup white vinegar
1/4 cup granulated sugar
7 parsley stems
1 bay leaf, toasted
Pinch of red pepper flakes
3 star anise, toasted
1 teaspoon black peppercorns, toasted
7 whole cloves, toasted
3 green cardamom pods, toasted
2 cups morel mushrooms, plunged in salt water, rinsed and dried
Salt and pepper to taste

For the spicy melon salad:

Zest and juice of 1 lemon
Zest and juice of 1 lime
1 jalapeno, seeded and finely chopped
2 tablespoons rice wine vinegar
2 sprigs mint, stemmed and finely chopped
1/2 cantaloupe, peeled, seeded and cut into 12 3/4-inch cubes, remainder
  cut into 1/4-inch balls
1/2 orange honeydew melon, peeled, seeded and cut into 12 3/4-inch
  cubes, remainder cut into 1/4-inch balls

For the melon emulsion:

1/2 honeydew melon, peeled, seeded and juiced
1/2 small jalapeno, seeded and juiced
1 egg white
Juice of 1/4 lime
Kosher salt and pepper to taste

For the garnish:

Wild watercress sprigs**
Opal basil
Creme fraiche
Jalapeno, seeded and thinly sliced
Osetra caviar

* Available through JK Smith Farms at [phone].

** Available through Sausalito Springs at [phone].

RELATED ARTICLE: Olive Oil-Poached Sockeye Salmon with Hama Hama Oysters (Serves 4)

BRADLEY OGDEN

Brut Rose Sparkling Wine

Iron Horse Vineyards

Sonoma County, CA NV

directions

For the cauliflower sherbet: Place cauliflower and cream, seasoned with salt and pepper to taste, in a vacuum-sealed bag. Place in a pot of 140 degree water for one hour or until cauliflower is tender. Transfer cauliflower mixture to a blender and puree until smooth. Stir in gelatin until dissolved and cool to room temperature. Pour cauliflower mixture into a Pacojet beaker and freeze for 24 hours. Just before serving, make sherbet following Pacojet's instructions. If using a traditional ice cream machine, chill cauliflower mixture in an ice water bath. Pour into an ice cream machine and freeze according to manufacturer's instructions. Set aside in freezer.

For the marinated salmon roe: Gently combine salmon roe with oil; add remaining ingredients, stirring to combine, and set aside in refrigerator to marinate.

For the crispy salmon skin: Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Season salmon skin with grains of paradise, red sea salt and cayenne pepper to taste. Brush two sheets of parchment paper with oil, line a sheet pan with one piece of parchment, place skin on top, cover with second piece of parchment and top with another sheet pan. Bake until skin is crisp. Set aside to cool and cut each into six pieces.

For the marinated cucumbers: Combine cucumber with sel gris to taste; set aside for 10 minutes. Drain liquid and toss cucumbers in oil and lemon juice. Set aside to marinate.

For the chervil puree: In a pot, combine chervil stems and water; bring to a boil. Discard stems, add chervil leaves and season with salt to taste; wilt leaves. Chill chervil and water in an ice water bath. Transfer to a blender and puree until smooth. Set aside, keeping cool.

For the purple cauliflower salad: In a saute pan, melt butter. Add cauliflower and saute until tender. Transfer to a bowl and toss with avocado and Champagne vinegar; season with salt and pepper to taste. Set aside at room temperature.

For the Hama Hama oysters: In a pot, bring cream to a simmer and reduce by half. Add reserved oyster liquor and reduce by one third. Add oysters and dill and remove from heat. Season with lemon juice, salt and pepper to taste. Set aside, keeping warm.

For the olive oil-poached sockeye salmon: In a wide pot, combine oil, garlic, parsley and dill stems and salmon fillets; over low heat, cook salmon to desired doneness.

To serve: Arrange crispy salmon skin, marinated cucumbers and purple cauliflower salad on plate; place a quenelle of cauliflower sherbet on cucumbers and sprinkle with lemon zest; garnish cauliflower salad with carrot chips. Place salmon on plate and top with marinated salmon roe, chives and lemon zest. Spoon oysters with sauce around salmon and top with pine nuts. Drizzle plate with chervil puree.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

ingredients

For the cauliflower sherbet:*

2 cups roughly chopped cauliflower florets
1 cup heavy cream
2 sheets gelatin, softened
Salt and pepper to taste

For the marinated salmon roe:

8 ounces smoked Alaskan salmon roe**
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 tablespoon soy sauce
Zest and juice of 1/2 lemon

For the crispy salmon skin:

2 sides salmon skin, flesh completely removed
Ground grains of paradise to taste***
Extra virgin olive oil, as needed
Hawaiian red sea salt to taste***
Cayenne pepper to taste

For the marinated cucumbers:

1 Japanese cucumber, thinly sliced****
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
Juice of 1/2 lemon
Sel gris to taste*****

For the chervil puree:

1 cup packed chervil leaves, stems reserved
1/2 cup water
Salt to taste

For the purple cauliflower salad:

3 tablespoons butter
1/2 head purple cauliflower, florets only, blanched
1 Hass avocado, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch cubes
Champagne vinegar to taste
Salt and pepper to taste

For the Hama Hama oysters:

1 pint heavy cream
12 Hama Hama oysters, shucked and liquor reserved
1 tablespoon finely chopped dill
Lemon juice to taste
Salt and pepper to taste

For the olive oil-poached sockeye salmon:

1 quart extra virgin olive oil
4 cloves garlic, peeled
2 bunches parsley stems
2 bunches dill stems
4 8-ounce salmon fillets, cleaned

For the garnish:

Lemon zest
Carrot chips
Chives, cut on bias
Pine nuts, toasted

* This sherbet is made using a Pacojet; a type of machine that makes ice creams and sorbets to order. For more information, go to www.pacojet.com.

** Available through Arpeggio's at [phone] or www.arpeggios.com.

*** Available through The Spice House at www.thespicehouse.com.

**** Available through L.A. Specialty Produce at [phone].

***** Available through Fresh and Wild at [phone].

RELATED ARTICLE: Crayfish and Beet Gelee with Apple-Celery Salad (Serves 4)

GUENTER SEEGER

Riesling Auslese, Wehlener Sonnenuhr

Joh. Jos. Prum

Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, Germany 1997

directions

For the beet gelee: In a pot, combine beet juice, red wine and port; bring to a simmer and cook for 10 minutes. Remove from heat and stir in gelatin and salt to taste until dissolved. Pour into serving dishes and refrigerate until set. Spread reserved beet solids over a sheet pan and place in oven with just the pilot light on; "bake" until dry. Transfer to a spice grinder and pulverize to a powder. Set aside in a dry place.

For the crayfish: Toss crayfish in lemon juice and oil and season with salt and white pepper to taste; set aside, keeping cool.

For the apple-celery salad: Toss apple and celery in lemon juice and oil and season with salt and white pepper to taste.

To serve: Using a circular mold, place apple-celery salad on beet gelee. Arrange crayfish around apple-celery salad and sprinkle plate with beet powder; garnish with horseradish and chervil.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

ingredients

For the beet gelee:

1 cup beet juice, beet solids* reserved
1/2 cup red wine
1/2 cup ruby port
3 1/2 sheets gelatin, softened
Salt to taste

For the crayfish:

48 crayfish, cooked and shells removed
Juice of 1/4 lemon
1 tablespoon grapeseed oil
Salt and white pepper to taste

For the apple-celery salad:

1 Granny Smith apple, peeled and finely diced
1 rib celery, finely diced and blanched
Juice of 1/4 lemon
1 tablespoon grapeseed oil
Salt and white pepper to taste

For the garnish:

Horseradish, finely julienned
Chervil sprigs

* Use a juice extractor.

RELATED ARTICLE: Dungeness Crab Ravioli Salad with Yuzu-Honey Vinaigrette (Serves 6)

GUENTER SEEGER

Puligny-Montrachet, Les Pucelles

Domaine Leflaive

Cote de Beaune, Burgundy, France 1999

directions

For the yuzu-honey vinaigrette: Combine honey, vinegar, plum wine, soy sauce and yuzu juice; slowly add oil while whisking until emulsified. Season with salt to taste. Set aside.

For the crab ravioli salad: Remove crabmeat from shells; reserve leg meat for garnish. Combine crabmeat, mayonnaise, tomatoes, pineapple, chives and season with salt and pepper to taste; mix to combine. Brush turnip slices with yuzu-honey vinaigrette.

To serve: Arrange turnip slices on dish and top with crab salad and another turnip slice. Drizzle vinaigrette over dish and garnish with crab leg meat and mint.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

ingredients

For the yuzu-honey vinaigrette:

1 tablespoon honey
1 tablespoon sherry vinegar
1 teaspoon plum wine
1/2 teaspoon soy sauce
1 tablespoon yuzu juice
1/4 cup grapeseed oil
Salt to taste

For the crab ravioli salad:

2 2-pound Dungeness crabs, cooked in court bouillon
2 tablespoons mayonnaise
1 tomato, blanched, peeled, seeds removed and finely chopped
2 tablespoons finely chopped pineapple
1 tablespoon finely chopped chives
2 turnips, peeled and very thinly sliced
Salt and pepper to taste

For the garnish:

Dungeness crab leg meat
Candy lime mint sprigs*

* Available through Ashland Farms at [phone].

RELATED ARTICLE: Vegetables a la Grecque with Tomato Confiture (Serves 6)

GUENTER SEEGER

Brut Rose Sparkling Wine

Iron Horse Vineyards

Sonoma County, CA NV

directions

For the vegetables a la Grecque: In a pot over low heat, caramelize the honey. Deglaze with vinegar; add wine and reduce by one-third, skimming surface as needed. Tie coriander, peppercorns, star anise, bay leaf and saffron in cheesecloth and add to pot with vegetable stock; simmer for about 15 minutes. Season with salt to taste and pour over vegetables; set aside to marinate for two hours.

For the tomato confiture: In a pan, combine tomatoes, onion and simple syrup; cook over low heat until thick, stirring often. Remove from heat, discard onion and season with sea salt to taste. Chill in refrigerator.

To serve: Spoon vegetables with marinade into dish and top with tomato confiture. Drizzle with olive oil and garnish with lambs quarter and chive blossoms.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

ingredients

For the vegetables a la Grecque:

1/3 cup honey
3 tablespoons Champagne vinegar
1/2 cup white wine
1 teaspoon coriander seeds
1/2 teaspoon black peppercorns
1 star anise
1 bay leaf
Pinch of saffron
1 cup vegetable stock
6 baby carrots, peeled, sliced on the bias and blanched
6 romanesco florets, blanched
6 cauliflower florets, blanched
6 purple cauliflower florets, blanched
1 red bell pepper, seeds removed and cut into 1/2-inch squares
1 green bell pepper, seeds removed and cut into 1/2-inch squares
1 small zucchini, turned
1 small kohlrabi, peeled, cut into small cubes and blanched
Salt to taste

For the tomato confiture:

1 pound plum tomatoes, blanched, peeled, seeded and roughly chopped
1/2 onion, peeled
3 tablespoons simple syrup
Sea salt to taste

For the garnish:

Extra virgin olive oil
Amaranth sprigs*
Chive blossoms

* Available through The Chef's Garden at [phone].

RELATED ARTICLE: Asparagus Salad with White Asparagus Mousse and Corn Sherbet (Serves 6)

GUENTER SEEGER

Sylvaner Kabinett

Hans Wirsching

Franken, Germany 2001

directions

For the corn sherbet: In a pot, bring cream, milk and corn to a boil. Add trimoline and season with salt and white pepper to taste. Transfer mixture to a blender and puree. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve; set aside in an ice water bath until chilled. Pour into an ice cream machine and freeze according to manufacturer's instructions. Set aside in freezer.

For the white asparagus mousse: In a pot, bring asparagus juice to a boil; reduce to a simmer and skim impurities from surface. In a bowl over an ice water bath, combine asparagus juice with gelatin and whip until it becomes a stiff foam. Add whipped cream and salt; whip until well incorporated. Set aside in refrigerator.

For the asparagus salad: Toss asparagus tips in olive oil, lemon juice and salt and pepper to taste.

To serve: Arrange asparagus and scoops of mousse and sherbet on plate; sprinkle with bonito flakes.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

ingredients

For the corn sherbet:

1 cup heavy cream
1 cup milk
1 cup corn kernels
2 ounces trimoline*
Salt and white pepper to taste

For the white asparagus mousse:

1 cup white asparagus juice**
3 1/4 sheets gelatin, softened
1/4 cup heavy cream, whipped to stiff peaks
Pinch of salt

For the asparagus salad:

24 white asparagus tips, blanched
36 green asparagus tips, blanched
1/4 cup olive oil
2 tablespoons lemon juice
Salt and pepper to taste

For the garnish:

Bonito flakes***

* A liquid invert sugar used often in sorbets. Available through The Chef's Warehouse at www.chefswarehouse.com.

** Use a juice extractor.

*** From boiled, smoked, dried, cured and shaved bonito tuna. Available through K & N, Inc. at [phone] or Asian markets.

RELATED ARTICLE: Scallop and Watermelon Salad with Basil Seeds (Serves 6)

GUENTER SEEGER

Sancerre, Ultimus

Jean Thomas

Loire Volley, France 2001

directions

To serve: Arrange slices of scallops on dish; drizzle with watermelon juice; spoon basil seeds over top. Sprinkle pink peppercorns and RealSalt[R] on dish and garnish with caviar and nasturtium.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

ingredients

For the scallop and watermelon salad:

6 live diver sea scallops, shells and roe removed, thinly sliced
1/4 watermelon, scooped into 1/2-inch balls
3 tablespoons watermelon juice
1 tablespoon basil seeds, soaked in water*

For the garnish:

Pink peppercorns, ground
RealSalt[R]**
Golden osetra caviar
Nasturtium flowers

* Available through Ornamental Edibles at [phone] or at Southeast Asian markets.

** Available through Redmond RealSalt[R] at [phone].

RELATED ARTICLE: Grilled Georgia White Shrimp with Exotic Fruit Salad (Serves 6)

GUENTER SEEGER

Tokay Pinot Gris, Vendange Tardive

Domaine Zind Humbrecht

Alsace, France 1991

directions

For the exotic fruit salad: Combine guavas, grapefruit, orange, mango, avocado and vanilla seeds with reserved juices; macerate for about 20 minutes. Season shrimp with salt and pepper to taste.

To serve: Arrange fruit and shrimp in a dish; spoon on passion fruit pulp and remaining fruit juices. Dab Calogiuri Vincotto[R] onto shrimp and garnish dish with hibiscus.

ingredients

For the exotic fruit salad:

3 small guavas, sliced
1 pink grapefruit, peeled and segmented, juices reserved
1 navel orange, peeled and segmented, juices reserved
1 small mango, peeled and thinly sliced
1 avocado, peeled and thinly sliced
1 vanilla bean, split and scraped
12 white shrimp, shells removed, skewered and grilled
3 passion fruit, halved
Salt and pepper to taste

For the garnish:

Calogiuri Vincotto[R] originale*
Hibiscus flowers

* An Italian cooked grape must and vinegar condiment. Available through Culinary Masters at [phone].

RELATED ARTICLE: Abalone and Cucumber Salad with Caramelized Daikon (Serves 6)

GUENTER SEEGER

Weissburgunder Spatlese Troken

R. Furst

Franken, Germany 1998

directions

For the abalone: In a pot, combine abalone, truffle juice and olive oil; bring to a low simmer; cook for 12 hours or until tender (adding water if necessary). Season with salt to taste during the last hour of cooking. Thinly slice abalone across width and return to cooking liquid.

For the cucumber salad: Combine cucumber with salt to taste; let sit at room temperature for one hour. Rinse with warm water; drain well, squeezing out excess water. Toss with vinegar and oil. Set aside, keeping cool.

For the daikon: In a pot over low heat, caramelize the honey. Deglaze with vinegar and wine; stir to combine. Add daikon; cook until tender. Season with salt to taste. Set aside, keeping warm.

To serve: Arrange slices of abalone on daikon, top with a quenelle of cucumber salad and drizzle with sauces from abalone and daikon.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

ingredients

For the abalone:

6 abalone, cleaned
12 ounces truffle juice
3 tablespoons olive oil
Salt to taste

For the cucumber salad:

1/2 hothouse cucumber, peeled, seeded and finely julienned
1/2 teaspoon rice wine vinegar
1 teaspoon grapeseed oil
Salt to taste

For the daikon:

2 tablespoons honey
1/2 cup rice wine vinegar
1/2 cup white wine
1 daikon, peeled, cut into 6 2-inch thick rounds
Salt to taste

RELATED ARTICLE: Georgia Mountain Trout with Potato Salad (Serves 6)

GUENTER SEEGER

Riesling Spatlese, Ruppertsberger Reiterpfad

Reichsral von Buhl

Pfalz, Germany 2001

directions

For the potato salad: In a pot of boiling salted water, cook potatoes until just tender. Drain potatoes and peel while hot using a towel and a knife to pull skin away. Cool to room temperature and grate on a box grater. Add shallots, mustard, vinegar, oil, consomme and season with salt and pepper to taste; mix to combine. Set aside, keeping cool.

For the pecan sauce: In a blender, combine all ingredients and puree until smooth. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve and season with salt and white pepper to taste. Set aside, keeping warm.

For the horseradish "snow": In a pot, warm milk and horseradish to 170 degrees; remove from heat and transfer to a blender; puree and strain through a fine-mesh sieve. Just before serving, froth using a hand-held immersion blender.

For the trout: Steam trout to desired doneness and remove skin.

To serve: Pile potato salad on plate and top with trout. Spoon pecan sauce and horseradish "snow" onto plate. Garnish dish with bacon and apple puree; sprinkle with RealSalt[R].

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

ingredients

For the potato salad:

1 pound Russian Banana potatoes
2 tablespoons dried shallots
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
3 tablespoons Champagne vinegar
2 tablespoons grapeseed oil
1/4 cup chicken consomme*
Salt and pepper to taste

For the pecan sauce:

2 ounces butter, melted
2 ounces pecans, grated
3/4 cup chicken consomme, hot*
Salt and white pepper to taste

For the horseradish "snow":

3 cups whole milk
3 tablespoons grated fresh horseradish

For the trout:

6 trout fillets, trimmed

For the garnish:

Bacon, thinly sliced and cooked
Apple puree
RealSalt[R]**

* Chicken stock can be substituted.

** Available through Redmond RealSalt[R] at [phone].