Fast greens.

COOKING GREENS MAY SEEM DAUNTING SINCE they are so leafy and come in a big volume. Don't be intimidated, though.

You'll need to weigh your time, your budget, and your cooking equipment when selecting greens to buy. Here is the rundown:

FROZEN GREENS

Usually available in whole leaf or chopped, varieties usually include spinach, collard, mustard, and sometimes kale or mixed greens.

Advantages

* Available year-round; can stock up and have them on hand.

* Mustards, collards, and mixed greens can be cooked right from the freezer.

Disadvantages

* Could be more expensive than fresh, depending on time of year.

* Spinach really should be thawed prior to cooking.

* Texture not as crisp as fresh; better as a cooked dish rather than in a salad.

How to prepare

Frozen spinach should be thawed before cooking. This makes it easier to handle, and it will cook more evenly. Place the amount of spinach you'll need in a bowl in the refrigerator for at least three hours (or overnight).

Place the desired amount of frozen greens or thawed spinach in a microwave-safe bowl. Figure that about 3/4 cup (6 ounces) frozen greens or thawed spinach will make one serving. You don't need to add any water. Microwave on HIGH for 1 1/2 minutes for each serving. Remove from microwave and drain, if desired. Season with ground black pepper, white pepper, onion or garlic powder, chopped onions or garlic, or red pepper flakes. Then, toss with a squeeze of lemon juice, a splash of vinegar, or a splash of oil.

To cook on top of the stove, fill a pot with 1/4 cup water for each serving. Bring to a boil. Add thawed spinach or frozen greens and allow to cook, stirring, for about 2 minutes or until hot. If you are really in a hurry, cover the pot; just be certain not to let the greens overcook. Drain and season, as indicated for frozen greens.

FRESH GREENS

Cleaned or bagged greens, such as spinach, kale, collards, mustards, or beet greens.

Advantages

* Great color, flavor, and texture.

* Can be shredded and used uncooked in salads, on sandwiches, and tossed with pasta.

Disadvantages

* Not available all year.

* May need to be cut before cooking.

* More expensive than uncleaned greens.

How to prepare

Place the amount of greens that you'd like to cook in a colander. Figure about 1 1/2 cups of uncooked greens per serving. Run very briefly under cold water and shake to dry. If necessary, rip into small pieces. (Some cleaned greens come already shredded; baby spinach leaves are small enough without ripping.)

Heat a deep pot and spray with vegetable oil. No liquid is necessary. Keep heat on high. Quickly add greens, stirring and tossing. You may have to do this in batches, depending on the amount you're cooking. Three or four servings of spinach should take only 2-3 minutes to prepare this way. Tougher greens, such as kale or collards, may take 3-4 minutes.

As soon as greens have just become tender, remove from heat, toss with spices, vinegar, or oil, and serve.

For steaming, follow the same procedures for frozen greens. You may have to fold fresh greens into the pot in batches, waiting for the first greens to wilt and make room.

FRESH BUT UNCLEANED GREENS

Usually fresh from the farmer or from the market.

Advantages

* Like cleaned greens, they have great color, flavor, and texture.

* Can be shredded and used uncooked in salads, on sandwiches, and tossed with pasta.

* May be the least expensive form.

Disadvantages

* Must be cleaned before cooked or eaten.

How to clean

Put on your glasses! Before you prepare these greens, you must thoroughly clean them, as there may be sand, silt, pebbles, and other extraneous matter. Place a small amount of greens in a colander, run cold water over them, and carefully scrutinize each leaf to be sure there's nothing there but the greens.

Some people like to fill a cleaned sink with cold water and put all the greens in the sink, carefully sifting through the leaves and cleaning them as they go. Just be careful not to let the greens soak for a long time, or they will become waterlogged and will taste soggy when cooked.

How to prepare

You'll cook these greens in the same way as the cleaned greens. This may take some time. It's worth it, though. Fresh greens have a wonderful flavor, color, and texture.

IN SUMMARY

Greens can be quickly steamed or sauteed, tossed with spices, vinegar, lemon juice, and/or oil, and eaten! Serve them as a side dish, use them as a bed for baked tofu or barbecued vegetables, or add them to herbed brown rice. Toss cooked, shredded greens with pasta for a fast entree, or stir into soups for extra taste and texture.