Fair play.

As has become tradition, advertising for the L.A. County Fair will once again take a poke at the mindset of city folk.

This year, there will be a TV spot in which a little boy in nursery school says that cows give latte. In another ad, a girl shopping in an upscale boutique notes that cashmere that comes from a cow. There is also a billboard that says the cotton candy and corndogs found at the fair are part of the "Fatkins Diet."

"We basically decided that the fair itself didn't need changing," said Cary Sacks, president of Ideaology advertising, which created the campaign. "It's fun, low-tech and not glamorous but we wanted to make it relevant to today's Southern California culture."

The fair, scheduled to run Sept. 10-26, has in recent years drawn a more upscale audience to Pomona. Wendy Talarico, a spokeswoman for the Los Angeles County Fair Association, noted that after a nine-year decline, attendance has steadily increased over the past four years, with admissions hitting 1.3 million last year.

Ideaology has handled the $1 million account for five years. Previous ads featured a tough-guy biker riding around with a pink teddy that he presumably won at the fair.