FUZZY LOGIC PICK THE BEST PEACHES AND TASTE WHAT SUMMER'S ALL ABOUT.

Byline: Natalie Haughton Food Editor

A bite of a succulent fresh peach, with juices dripping down your chin, is the essence of summer.

Sweet and fragrant, it can't be beat. Although some are lucky enough to have access to tree-ripened fruit, those who don't can peruse local farmers markets, fruit stands and supermarkets to take advantage of this year's crop, now at its peak, available through mid-October.

A big harvest (about 2 percent less than last year's record-breaking crop) of good quality fruit is anticipated, so supplies should be plentiful throughout the summer - and at reasonable prices, notes Marilyn Dolan, consumer program director for the California Tree Fruit Agreement in Reedley.

California produces more peaches - up to 60 percent of the U.S. crop - than any other state. South Carolina comes in a distant second, growing about 15 percent of the nation's total yield, followed by Georgia with about 13 percent.

The Golden State produces more than 200 different varieties of peaches, each available for only a short period due to different harvest times. Elegant Lady, O'Henry, Rich Lady and Summer Lady are some of the larger-production-volume yellow peaches you might come across, notes Dolan.

White-flesh peach varieties taste sweeter than yellow peaches since they contain less acid - and flavor is all about the sugar-to-acid ratio. Summerwhite make up 22 percent of all peaches produced in the state. Among the Summerwhites are sweet, white-fleshed flat Donut peaches (no holes in them) with a cling-free center stone or seed about the size of a pistachio nut.

When buying peaches, look for a bright yellow background color, the key to determining fruit ripeness. Avoid any hint of green, a sign that the peach was picked too early and is not mature. Also, be aware that the amount of red color has nothing to do with ripeness, maturity or flavor.

Keep in mind that peaches will never get any sweeter once picked. However, when peaches ripen, the acid level drops, resulting in a piece of fruit that tastes sweeter, points out Dolan.

But what about the peaches you attempt to ripen at home on the counter or in a paper bag that end up mealy and flavorless? (When this happens, I promptly return the fruit to the store where purchased.) According to Dolan, the state of the fruit at the time of purchase affects the flavor and texture of the fruit after ripening. Fruit that has been refrigerated prior to being fully ripened sustains injury and will never ripen, even if left out at room temperature.

To avoid inedible ripened fruit, consumers should ask the produce personnel if the peaches have been stored in a cooler or under refrigeration. If so, be forewarned - you may have a problem, cautions Dolan.

Whenever possible, ask to sample ripe or almost-ripe fruit before buying.

Consumers may notice some retailers offer what is known as preconditioned fruit. This fruit, which has been left out to ripen a couple of days after picking, is riper than other fruit but not totally ripe - and commands a premium price. It is marketed under different names like Ripe and Ready or Summerripe. Though nothing has been added, this fruit goes through a handling process, having to do with its ripening enzymes, that prevents internal breakdown injury from the cold - and thus it can be stored at any temperature, even chilled, Dolan explains.

Some growers and packers also offer tree-ripened, ready-to-eat fruit, also at a premium price. Check with the produce department at your market.

When you buy a piece of fruit that is firm, don't refrigerate it. Ripen at room temperature (on the counter) in a loosely closed paper bag a day or two (check often). When the fruit yields to gentle palm pressure (and is as soft as you like), refrigerate and consume within a week.

Bottom line: If both the store and consumer are handling it properly, the result will be delicious fruit.

Natalie Haughton, [phone]

natalie.haughton(at)dailynews.com

SHRIMP AND CRAB CAKE WITH SKEWERED SHRIMP AND PEACH SALSA 

SHRIMP AND CRAB CAKE:

1 pound raw shrimp, peeled and deveined

1 pound jumbo lump crab meat

1 red bell pepper, minced

1 green bell pepper, minced

1 habanero pepper OR other milder chile pepper, seeded and minced

2 tablespoons minced red onion

2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro

1 tablespoon minced garlic

Salt and pepper to taste

Flour as needed for dredging

Olive oil 

SKEWERED SHRIMP:

10 large shrimp, peeled and deveined with tail on

10 sprigs fresh rosemary, bottom half stripped of leaves

Salt and pepper

Olive oil

FOR ASSEMBLY:

Peach Salsa

Peach slices

For Shrimp and Crab Cake, process shrimp in a food processor until smooth. Remove from processor and combine with remaining ingredients, except flour and oil; mix well. Divide into 10 equal portions. Form each portion into a cake or patty; dredge lightly in flour and saute on both sides in hot oil in a large skillet until golden and hot throughout; keep hot.

For Skewered Shrimp, skewer each shrimp with stripped end of a sprig of rosemary. Season with salt and pepper. Saute lightly in hot oil in a large skillet until cooked through.

To assemble and serve, spoon a circle of Peach Salsa in center of each plate. Top with a seafood cake. Place a skewered shrimp in center of cake, garnish with peach slices and serve immediately. Makes 10 servings.

PEACH SALSA: Combine 1 fresh ripe peach, diced, 1 fresh ripe nectarine, diced, 1 chile pepper (habanero, Anaheim, jalapeno, etc.), seeded and minced, 1 ripe avocado, diced, 1/2 red bell pepper, seeded and diced, 1/2 green bell pepper, seeded and diced, 2 tablespoons minced red onion, 1 tablespoon chopped fresh cilantro, 1 tablespoon olive oil, 1 ounce lemon or citrus flavored rum and salt and pepper to taste. Allow to stand 1 hour for flavors to blend.

From Paul Evans, chef, Cheval Golf and Country Club, Tampa, Fla.

MARGARITA FRUIT SALAD

DRESSING:

1/3 cup freshly squeezed lime juice

2 tablespoons honey

1 ounce tequila (optional)

Pinch kosher salt

1/4 cup chopped fresh mint

SALAD:

1 fresh white peach

2 fresh yellow peaches

2 fresh nectarines

2 fresh plums

6 sugarplums (fresh prunes), (optional)

1 cup watermelon, balled OR cubed

Pinch cayenne pepper

Lime wedges

Mint sprigs

For Dressing, combine lime juice, honey and tequila in a small bowl and whisk until honey dissolves. Add a pinch of kosher salt to taste. Add chopped mint; set aside.

For Salad, rinse fruits and remove pits; cut into thin wedges or 1-inch chunks. Combine all fruits in a large bowl; pour dressing over fruits and stir gently to distribute. Sprinkle with cayenne pepper and adjust to taste. Serve in margarita or other stemmed glasses (that have been rimmed around the edges with a squeeze of lime juice, then dipped in salt or sugar on a small plate, if desired). Garnish with a lime wedge and mint sprig. Makes 6 to 8 starter or side servings.

FRESH FRUIT SANGRIA 

1 fresh peach

1 fresh nectarine

1 fresh plum

1 cup raspberries

1 bottle sauvignon blanc OR pinot gris, chilled

Rinse fruits; remove pits from peach, nectarine and plum and slice thinly. Place all fruits, including raspberries, into bottom of a large pitcher and pour chilled wine over fruit. When serving, use a spoon to place a small amount of fruit into each glass. May be made ahead; keep covered and chilled in refrigerator. Makes 4 servings.

PEACH CRUMBLE

FRUIT:

3 pounds fresh peaches

1/2 cup granulated sugar

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg

CRUMBLE:

2 cups flour

1/2 cup granulated sugar

1/2 cup packed brown sugar

3/4 cup (1 1/2 sticks) butter OR margarine

1 1/2 teaspoons ground cinnamon

1/2 teaspoon salt

For Fruit, slice peaches to get about 2 1/2 quarts; toss with 1/2 cup granulated sugar, 1 teaspoon cinnamon and nutmeg. Turn fruit into a buttered 13x9-inch baking pan or 12-inch round baking dish.

For Crumble, mix all Crumble ingredients until lumpy and moist (pinch with fingers to make crumbly). Sprinkle over fruit. Bake in preheated 375-degree oven 35 minutes or until hot and bubbly. Serve warm with whipped cream or ice cream. Makes 12 servings.

PEACHES AND CREAM TART

9 soft coconut macaroon cookies (1/2 of a 13 3/4-ounce package)

1 cup finely chopped pecans

3 tablespoons butter OR margarine, melted

1/2 cup whipping cream

1 (8-ounce) package cream cheese, softened

1/3 cup sugar

2 teaspoons dark rum OR orange juice

1 teaspoon vanilla

1/4 teaspoon almond extract

4 fresh peaches, thinly sliced

2 tablespoons lemon juice

1/2 cup fresh raspberries

1/4 cup apricot preserves

2 teaspoons honey

For crust, crumble macaroons to measure about 2 cups. In a large mixing bowl, combine macaroon crumbs, pecans and butter; mix well. Press mixture onto bottom and up sides of a 10- or 11-inch quiche or other shallow baking dish or an 11-inch tart pan with removable bottom. Bake in preheated 350-degree oven 15 to 18 minutes or until golden and set. Cool on a wire rack.

For filling, in a medium bowl with an electric mixer, beat whipping cream until soft peaks form; set aside. In a small mixing bowl, beat cream cheese and sugar on medium speed until fluffy. Add rum, vanilla and almond extract; beat until smooth. Gently fold in whipped cream. Turn mixture into cool crust; spread evenly. Cover and chill 2 to 4 hours.

Before serving, toss peach slices with lemon juice. Arrange peaches and raspberries over filling. In small saucepan, combine preserves (any large pieces should be cut up into smaller ones) and honey; heat and stir until just melted (or melt in glass cup in microwave oven). Strain glaze if desired and cool, if necessary. Carefully brush or spoon glaze over fruit. Using a sharp knife, cut into wedges and serve immediately. Refrigerate any leftovers. Makes 10 to 12 servings.

PEACH POTPOURRI

--TO PEEL OR NOT: Marilyn Dolan never recommends peeling peaches (unless you really dislike the peel) because the peel is the most nutritious part of the fruit. Many varieties these days are bred to have less fuzz, and packing houses also brush the fruit to remove some of the fuzz. ``I never peel them - and you can't tell.''

--USES: Use peaches in salads, sorbets, smoothies, ice cream - or throw some halves on the barbecue when grilling to serve with chicken, pork, turkey, etc. For dessert, fill hot grilled peach halves with a piece of chocolate (it melts) and serve with ice cream. Chopped peaches are also good in muffins, pancakes and waffles. Peach halves can also be broiled, and slices can be sauteed alone or in stir-fry dishes.

--FREEZING: To freeze, slice peaches or cut into chunks, toss with a little lemon juice to keep from darkening (no sugar necessary) and pack in plastic freezer bags or containers. Freeze and use within six months.

If you end up with some really ripe fruit, simple puree it in the blender, pour into ice cube trays and freeze. Remove cubes to plastic bags and use frozen cubes within a year to make smoothies, margaritas, etc.

--COOKING: A pound of peaches (about 3 medium or 2 large) will yield 1 1/2 to 2 cups sliced fruit or 1 2/3 cups diced fruit.

--NUTRITION: Peaches have moderate amounts of fiber, including pectin, are low fat and contain no cholesterol. A medium peach has about 45 calories.

- Natalie Haughton

CAPTION(S):

4 photos, bo

Photo:

(1 -- cover -- color) Peaches

A taste of summer is ripe and ready

(2 -- color) SHRIMP AND CRAB CAKE WITH SKEWERED SHRIMP AND PEACH SALSA

(3 -- color) PEACHES AND CREAM TART

(4 -- color) MARGARITA FRUIT SALAD

Box:

PEACH POTPOURRI (see text)