FUSION FLAVORS FOR BARGAIN PRICES : AT MONDEO, SERVICE ALSO IN ABUNDANCE.

Byline: Larry Lipson Daily News Restaurant Critic

Mondeo in Sherman Oaks hopes to capture the culinary spirit of today and tomorrow with an under-$10 menu.

It is one of the first of a projected chain of colorful, casual eateries featuring assertively seasoned foods representing American regional, Mediterranean and Asian styles, generally described as ``fusion flavors.''

The zingy, narrow cafe on the ground floor of the La Reina complex opened a couple of weeks ago with an arty sign, logo imprinted T-shirts for sale and a website: www.mondeo.com.

Denim-shirted, smiling young staffers bustle around like bees and are so intent on pleasing patrons, it would seem that they might go into a tantrum if something seriously wrong occurs.

Shiny granite tabletops carry sleek condiment holders. Artistic shadow patterns on the walls are produced by clever lighting effects. Slate flooring, high ceilings and muted earth tones add to the overall handsomeness.

And mocking the silly rules of most chains, the menu declares ``substitutions and sides are no problem.''

This I love. I've always hated all the rules and regulations that restaurants foist on diners. If it's in stock, why not sell it. If a diner likes tomatoes and hates beets, why not substitute them, or vice versa. Most people understand that sometimes they may have to pay extra for a more expensive ingredient than the one they're giving up. Or that extras cost the restaurant more, so small additional charges are appropriate.

So three cheers for Mondeo's stated policy. Hopefully, this begins a trend that will gather force into the 21st century.

As for its food, Mondeo does some unexpected things, but they're usually positive.

The chicken pot pie ($7.75) here, for example, is like no other. It's a tasty herbal melange of white chicken meat with a sherry-flavored sauce topped with broken-up pieces of crunchy cornbread and served in a large soup dish.

And the Moroccan-style lamb ($8.50) in a spicy tomato broth with crisp, thin carrots and a side of orzo is nothing less than a large bowl of peppery lamb soup, quite enjoyable if you like spicy food.

And portioning is certainly not diminutive. Order a side of the Asian spa salad ($2.95) and you get a satisfying heap of what most restaurants call a Chinese chicken salad tossed in a fat-free ginger-sesame dressing that could use a touch of rice vinegar and soy oomph for nondieters.

The brace of soups here are both excellent, with a thick Mexican-style tortilla chicken soup (bowl $6, cup $2.75) being enough for a hearty meal in the bowl size. Incidentally, there is always a filled basket of good bread available, plus olive oil, pepper and balsamic vinegar for dipping and nibbling before and during main meal-taking activity.

Which can easily result in diners stuffing themselves and not being able to finish their main course.

The second soup has an Asian accent. It's also a meal alternative, chock full of vegetables (corn, carrots, shiitakes, scallions) plus chicken, shrimp and beef. Dubbed Shanghai noodle (bowl $6.50, cup $2.75) it, too, has some peppery ginger assertiveness.

The fare here is rarely wimpy. A heftily portioned jambalaya type of dish ($8.50) doesn't mean mild when it says hot Cajun sausage (sliced) and a spicy sauce with rock shrimp, finely diced vegetables and tomato on a heap of white rice. Spicy guys and gals will love it.

More down-to-earth items such as a thick turkey burger ($7.50) with a handful of the good herb-flecked house fries or garlicky stir-fried beef with chow mein ($8.25) are available.

And you won't get bored here. The menu lists 17 entrees, six sandwiches and six wraps divided into American, Mediterranean and Asian ``East Winds'' categories.

No wine or beer yet, but the house-produced ginger ale ($1.95) is certainly worth a try.

THE FACTS

The restaurant: Mondeo.

Where: 14622 Ventura Blvd., Sherman Oaks.

When: Open for lunch, dinner and snacks from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily, to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday.

Recommended items: Aztec or Shanghai soups, Moroccan lamb soup, chicken pot pie, Bangkok curried chicken, garlic beef, jambalaya, Asian spa or Caesar salads, house-produced ginger ale.

Children's menu: Four options at $2.95 each: macaroni and cheese with hot dog and carrot sticks, double cheese quesadilla, chicken and cheese burrito with rice, bow-tie pasta with marinara sauce and parmesan cheese.

How much: Starters and sides from $2.25 to $3.50, sandwiches and wraps from $7.25 to $8.75, entrees and full salads from $7.25 to $9.50, desserts from $2.75 to $3.95. No alcohol. MC, V.

Wine list: Wine and beer license pending.

Reservations: Not taken. First come, first served. Information or takeout: [phone].

Our rating: Three Stars for food; Three Stars for service; Three and One Half Stars for value.

CAPTION(S):

Photo

Photo: Co-owner Shannon Tauss, hoisting a house-produced ginger ale, is helping bring fusion-style cuisine to the masses at Mondeo.