FROGGY'S A GREAT CATCH FOR FISH, IF YOU'RE CASTING ABOUT FOR QUALITY.

Byline: Larry Lipson Daily News Restaurant Critic

You won't find much better fish at a more reasonable price than the weighty portions at Froggy's Topanga Fish Market.

In laid-back Topanga, this is an ideal set-up. You order your food at a counter, pay for it (or leave your credit card) and pick one of the pewlike tables inside the circa-1925 converted American Legion Hall or one in the shaded patio area, and it will be delivered to you.

Tableware and paper napkins may be taken from a pot on each table, and sturdy, stemless wine glasses are available at the ordering counter.

It's a mixed crowd, mostly locals in varied garb, the majority casual in shorts, jeans and such, with the occasional diner direct from the office in more formal attire.

First-timers may begin by nibbling tasty fish pupusas (usually a mix of mahi-mahi and salmon) or the equivalent with chicken ($1.95 each).

These little corn masa patties also have some marinated cabbage and salsa on them, and they're delicious.

Quesadillas (fish or chicken, $4.95) or straight cheese ($2.50) and soft tacos (fish or chicken, $2.50) also provide tasty starters.

And you can actually enjoy a decent small meal with a small bowl of seafood chowder ($2.50) that isn't so small, and a generously portioned Caesar salad ($4.95).

The chowder is thick and full of potatoes, celery, onions and carrots, with a touch of tomato and plenty of chunks of tender, moist fish, usually either mahi-mahi or swordfish or a combination of both.

The fresh fish entrees, listed on a big board, are labeled ``old style fish market dinners'' and range from well-executed, tasty red snapper ($7.95) to swordfish ($14.95).

Fresh trout is a low $8.95. And perfectly seared rare ahi tuna goes for a moderate $12.95.

With each order, you get to pick two accompaniments: mashed or home-fried potatoes, Cajun rice, assorted vegetables or coleslaw. All of them are prepared simply and faultlessly.

The handling of the fish or shellfish is also simple. All of the fish are charbroiled, usually served juicy and palatable, without a hint of stinginess, and rarely does the kitchen make a mistake.

Tell them you want it a tad rarer than usual and they'll oblige.

Both mahi-mahi ($10.95) and sea bass ($12.95) sit atop our recommended list, with halibut ($12.95) right behind.

Shellfish and mollusks are sauteed with white wine and garlic, my favorites being the double portion of calamari steaks ($11.95), very lightly breaded and cooked to firm perfection with green onions, capers, shallots, garlic and white wine.

Scallops ($12.95) and shrimp ($13.95) receive the same expertise. One patron asked for a half and half of scallops and shrimp. No problem. And he loved it.

For those who prefer fare from terra firma, there's a hefty serving of moist, boneless chicken breasts ($7.95), our smart choice being the fresh garlic-flavored offering.

Teriyaki and jerk sauces are alternate options at the same price.

At these prices, and with cooking of such consistent quality, you practically can't go wrong.

Froggy's, by the way, does not serve frog legs.

THE FACTS The restaurant: Froggy's Topanga Fish Market and Restaurant.

Where: 1105 N. Topanga Canyon Blvd., Topanga.

When: Open for dinner from 5 to 9:30 p.m. nightly, to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday.

Recommended items: Fish or chicken pupusas, quesadillas (chicken, fish or cheese), fish or chicken tacos, seafood chowder, Caesar salad, mahi-mahi, ahi tuna, Pacific snapper, sea bass, calamari steak, scallops, shrimp, garlic chicken.

How much: Starters from $2 to $5, entrees from $8 to $14, desserts from $1.50 to $3. Wine and beer. AE, MC, V.

Wine list: Around a dozen changing all-Californian selections including such labels as Four Corners, Frog's Leap and Chappellet, ranging from $3.75 to $5.50 per glass, and from $12 to $22 per bottle. Corkage $5.

Reservations: Not taken. Information and takeout: [phone].

Our rating: Three and One Half Stars for food; Two and One Half Stars for wine.

CAPTION(S):

Photo

Photo: Cashier Zon Harper, left, chef Felipe Curiel, ownerLance Roberts (holding an unidentified helper) and server Lacey Brooks present the house halibut at Froggy's Topanga Fish Market in Topanga.

Evan Yee/Daily News