FRESH FRENCH IN THE BURBS : THOUSAND OAKS' CAFE PROVENCAL CREATES ZESTY REGIONAL FARE.Byline: Larry Lipson Daily News Restaurant Critic Guess what? Even at the new Cafe Provencal in Thousand Oaks (previously the Jungleland Cafe), you'll find a trio of pastas on the menu. Don't forget that the south of France South of France south n the South of France → le Sud de la France, le Midi is influenced culinarily by neighboring Italy. But with or without the pasta touches, it's truly refreshing to see an admittedly French restaurant opening in the suburbs. What you'll find is a no-nonsense cafe with a 31-seat dining room. For starters, it makes a good, deep-flavored French onion soup French onion soup is an onion and beef broth based soup traditionally served with croutons and cheese as toppings. Although ancient in origin, this dish underwent a resurgence of popularity in the 1960s due to the growth of French cooking in the United States. ($4.75), a sensational herbal-scented vegetable soup, a decent pork and chicken house pate ($4.75) and a zingy zing·y adj. zing·i·er, zing·i·est Informal 1. Pleasantly stimulating: "The times are good. The living is easy. The vibes are zingy" Saturday Review. appetizer serving of chewable sauteed squid bathed in a peppery pep·per·y adj. 1. Of, containing, or resembling pepper; sharp or pungent in flavor. 2. Vigorously sharp-tempered: a peppery sales clerk. 3. tomato sauce ($5.25). And if you're lucky there'll be a soupe de poissons ($3.50) as a blackboard special that brings the essence of the sea into each bowl, complete with rouille Rouille (French, 'rust') is a sauce that consists of olive oil with breadcrumbs, garlic, saffron and chile peppers. [1] It is served as a garnish with fish and fish soup, notably Bouillabaisse. Rouille is most often used in the cuisine of Provence. and croute. This is no old-fashioned, rich, creamy Bearnaise and Hollandaise sauce place, thank goodness. The food comes up light and flavorful, a tribute to Southern France. Incidentally, pissaladiere, Provence's onion, tomato and olive flaky pastry tart answer to pizza ($5.75) is a must luncheon item. On the main-course side, sand dabs ($8.25 at lunch, $9.75 at dinner) are feathery soft; firm shrimps with a hint of anise anise (ăn`ĭs), annual plant (Pimpinella anisum) of the family Umbelliferae (parsley family), native to the Mediterranean region but long cultivated elsewhere for its aromatic and medicinal qualities. join with mushrooms, tomatoes and garlic for a hearty evening platter; and steak (flank $12.75, filet mignon $17.25) or chicken ($11.75) are nicely executed with appropriate saucing and seasoning and tasty vegetable accompaniments. You'll receive a tart tapenade ta·pé·nade n. A spread of Provençal origin consisting of capers, black olives, and anchovies puréed with olive oil. [French, from Provençal tapéno, capers.] Noun 1. dip to spread on your bread and a satisfying salad or soup when you order a dinner entree here. Thumbs up for the tarte tatin and creme brulee for dessert; thumbs down for profiteroles. And there are some thoughtful wine selections on a small list and board. The facts The restaurant: Cafe Provencal. Where: 2310 E. Thousand Oaks Blvd., Thousand Oaks. When: Open for lunch from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. weekdays, for dinner from 5 to 9 p.m. nightly except Sunday, until 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Recommended items: Calamars a l'amoricaine (squids in spicy tomato sauce), terrine ter·rine n. 1. An earthenware container for cooking and serving food. 2. Any of various dishes prepared or cooked in a terrine. [French; see tureen. maison (house pork and chicken pate), onion soup, fish soup, pissaladiere, anisette-flavored sauteed shrimp with garlic and mushrooms, sand dabs, filet mignon with Roquefort sauce, flank steak with red wine sauce, roasted half chicken with herbs de Provence and ratatouille ra·ta·tou·ille n. A vegetable stew, usually made with eggplant, tomatoes, zucchini, peppers, and onions, seasoned with herbs and garlic. [French, from alteration of toillier, touiller, , tarte tatin, creme brulee. How much: Starters from $4.25 to $4.75; entrees (include soup or salad) and pastas from $8.25 to $17.25; desserts $4.25. Beers and wines. All major credit cards. Wine list: Strong on French with an additional board of special selections, but some wines are vaguely described and listed without vintage dates. Corkage $8. Reservations: Suggested. Call (805) 496-7121. Our rating: Three stars for food; three and 1/2 for service; two and 1/2 stars for wine. CAPTION(S): Photo Photo: Cafe Provencal owners Serge and Florence Bonnet, fro nt, and chef Philippe Renggli display pissaladiere, homemade pate and roasted duck. Tina Gerson/Daily News |
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