FLAVORS OF INDIA ARE LIVELY AT CURRY HOUSE.

Byline: Larry Lipson Restaurant Critic

TASTY, INEXPENSIVE INDIAN FOOD can currently be enjoyed at the tiny Curry House in North Hollywood, most of the time without the necessity of a reservation.

But it's a question of time before local fanciers of Indian fare discover it and those very few tables inside and outside become occupied more regularly.

With a banner rather than a glowing sign, Curry House has remained somewhat in the dark on Lankershim Boulevard and was hampered initially by a kitchen that failed to impress first-timers.

Now, with new, enthusiastic and experienced management and obvious skill in the kitchen, it is gaining devotees by leaps and bounds.

But don't look for the unusual here. Familiar Indian fare is the norm. For the most part, it has fine, lilting flavors, rarely suffers from overcooking or dryness, meets whatever peppery requirements are requested and its soups, sauces and liquid condiments won't display unwanted wateriness.

Yes, you might observe a touch of oiliness in its ground meat samosa ($2.50 each) stuffing, but the cone-shaped appetizer possesses welcome pastry freshness and crunch.

Other appetizers such as chicken tikka ($4.50), lamb tikka ($4.95) and seekh kabob ($4.95) offer an unsauced preview to a variety of entree curry and tandoori options.

An assorted appetizer plate ($6.50) contains all three plus a samosa and an onion pakora. The pakora, which could be described as a fried onion fritter, is also available separately ($2.50).

Orders of these appetizers result in a couple of complimentary chutney accompaniments - lime and tamarind. And those who like raita ($1.50), the cooling yogurt and cucumber mixture (here with carrots, too) - with their Indian food shouldn't hesitate to ask for it as an appetizer companion.

Part of the fun when eating Indian food lies definitely in these little saucers and containers of flavorful additions. Thick, fruity mango chutney ($1.50), by the way, provides one more condiment option.

And pieces of those puffy, pizzalike, tandoor oven-baked breads - the garlic naan ($2) here is superb - can be dipped in chutney or raita or a combination of both. And if you have spooned a curried item on your plate, the curry sauce adds to the dipping adventure.

Choose your preferred curry: chicken, lamb, shrimp, fish (mahi-mahi) or vegetable, here priced from $6.95 to $12.95. And with either big appetites or several diners in your party you can order a larger variety of ingredients and flavors and have a great time.

I opt for at least one vindaloo (quite hot) dish and one masala, the latter a fairly thick, creamy, tomato-flavored curry textured with almond paste.

Here at the Curry House, both the mahi-mahi vindaloo ($9.95) and the lamb tikka masala ($10.95) turned out to be worthy choices.

Another time, the chicken tikka jalfrezi ($9.95) which translates into a tasty melange of chicken pieces with cutup vegetables, hit the spot, and the kitchen's regular lamb curry ($9.95) was a viable alternative.

India's version of creamed spinach, saag (or sag) paneer ($7.95) will generally fulfill any vegetable needs, this dish enhanced by the addition of the chef's own premises-made cheese.

And though the main dishes arrive with a side of rice, the Curry House makes good enough biryanis (Indian fried rice mixtures with cashews and raisins) that they should not be passed up. Again, there are chicken, lamb, shrimp and vegetable options ($8.95 to $11.95).

We chose the shrimp biryani ($11.95) one day because we'd already covered the chicken, lamb and vegetable bases. And we weren't disappointed.

At these prices, who could be?

Larry Lipson, [phone]

larry.lipson(at)dailynews.com

CURRY HOUSE

Food: Three stars - Service: Three stars - Value: Three stars

Where: 4329 Lankershim Blvd., North Hollywood.

Phone: [phone].

Meals/hours: Open for lunch from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. and dinner from 5 to 10:30 p.m. daily. Dinner served to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday.

Food type: Indian.

Cost: Starters from $2 to $6.50, shareable entrees from $7 to $13, desserts $2 each.

Credit cards: AE, MC, V.

Patio dining: Yes. Sidewalk seating.

Parking/valet: Street only.

Full bar: No liquor.

Music/entertainment: No.

Takeout/delivery: Both.

Reservations: Advised.

CAPTION(S):

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Photo:

A platter of tandoori chicken is surrounded by - clockwise from top left - saag paneer, aloo matar and chicken tikka masala at the Curry House in North Hollywood.

David Sprague/Staff Photographer