FIX YOUR FACE; THERE'S A GENERATION OF QUICK TRICKS FOR YOUR AGE-BUSTING ARSENAL.

Byline: Barbara De Witt Daily News Fashion Editor

One day you're looking glam. You know, major date-bait, without a worry or a wrinkle.

Then, omigod, you're middle-aged.

No need to consult the ``X-Files'' researchers. It wasn't an overnight phenomenon like the one Mel Gibson experienced in ``Forever Young.''

Face it. It took 30 years, but you never noticed that your crow's feet became the size of turkey tootsie until one morning when you flicked on a new 100-watt bathroom bulb.

Skin specialists - including Dr. Gerald Imber, the plastic surgeon-turned-author who details the complete aging process in his new book, ``The Youth Corridor'' (Quill; $15) - tell us we start aging the moment we're born, but the first wrinkles don't show up until about age 30 (younger if you're a cigarette-smoking party girl). And by age 40, your whole face is starting to sag ... just like Mom's.

It wasn't like you'd planned on becoming a supermodel any day soon, but hey, you still want that youthful glow as a consolation prize for those sagging boobs and spreading hips.

You're not alone. According to a recent Gallup poll, one third of female baby boomers will do anything to stay looking younger.

Luckily, we've got better wrinkle fighters in our anti-aging arsenal than past generations, who relied on wine (Cleopatra was said to have used it), mayo and royal bee jelly.

The affordable miracle of the '90s, says Dr. Debra Luftman, an Encino dermatologist and UCLA instructor, is alpha hydroxy acids (extracted from fruit acids and dairy products) that can be used in various strengths in night creams, scrubs and peels. She suggests the chemical peels once a month as good maintenance against sun damage, but also touts topical vitamin treatments (such as Renova); collagen and botox injections that smooth out deep furrows are procedures with growing success rates.

She also suggests moisturizing makeup with sunscreen to keep our newly polished faces safe from further abuse.

Do these new youth-in-a-jar products really work? Does a chemical peel hurt? How much do they cost?

We tried a few boomer beauty treatments and discovered several can make you look younger. Some are painful, and all cost less than a Chanel purse.

The heavy artillery 

Plastic surgery and lasers? Don't go there (yet). That's a last-ditch effort for the really brave with sky-high limits on their credit cards.

Instead, try a chemical peel activated by strong fruit acids.

To find out what a peel involves, we consulted with Dr. David Duffy, a Los Angeles dermatologist who works on a number of famous faces, including Sophia Loren's. ``It's not for everyone, especially if you scar easily,'' said Duffy. He explained that the best candidates are those with fair skin that isn't prone to keloid scarring. However, there's a new type of peel for dark-skinned people called a Beta Lift that removes lines with the same acid found in aspirin.

The procedure? Duffy scrutinizes your face under bright lights and a magnifying glass, discussing scarring history. Then he decides on the strength of the chemical peel (5 percent to 25 percent) and how long to leave it on, which is typically two minutes.

``Gently wash your face and pat it dry. You don't want your skin irritated,'' the dermatologist instructs. While you're holding a small battery-operated fan, he applies a colorless liquid, heavy on fruit acid solutions, to your face in quick, light strokes. ``Does it burn? Let me know,'' he says, but he's done in seconds with no problems.

Then he sets a timer and tells you to use the fan if your face burns or tingles. We're talking about the kind of itchy burn you might get with a sunburn. Nothing more.

Then you lean over the sink and wash your face off. Instant results include a glow and an unbelievable smoothness. Before you leave, you've got to put on a sunscreen to avoid sunburn (your fresh new face can easily blister and peel).

Yes, you can go back to work, but you can't put makeup on, so you might want to get a late afternoon appointment.

This is not a permanent solution. Some women get this type of peel every month for two or three months, getting a stronger formula each time. They keep it up with a daily skin revitalizing regimen.

There are several brands, including AlphaMax and Glyderm available through your dermatologist, and they all have small amounts of alpha hydroxy acid that will maintain chemically peeled skin or gradually improve the complexion of virgin skin.

A newer program called ChanTal uses ethocyn instead of alpha hydroxy, but Luftman says the jury is still out on this product.

While Luftman has Glyderm in her office, Duffy's and our testers' choice is Therapeutic AHA (alpha hydroxy acids), which is a two-step plan used twice a day. First, you apply a bleachlike liquid. When it's dry, you apply the creamy white revitalizing lotion. Then apply your makeup-with-sunscreen as usual.

Price: $160 for the peel; about $75 for the maintenance kit.

Comments: Within a week, friends and co-workers will start asking you about your radiant new complexion. Honest.

Collagen injections

What the chemical/fruit peels won't erase, collagen often can.

Again, we turned to Duffy, who says a good dermatologist will always do a test implant on your wrist to make sure you're not allergic to the product.

If your injection test site shows no swelling over a four-week period, you're a good candidate.

Once approved, here's what to expect.

It takes about 40 minutes and hurts about as much as going to the dentist when you get Novacaine shots ... but it's not as painful as getting a tattoo. If you faint at the sight of a needle, this isn't for you.

First, he ices one side of your face. When it's numb, he quickly pricks your skin to inject the collagen, while you hold the ice on the other side.

If you're getting your lips done (this gets rid of those little lines that cause lipstick to bleed), he'll shoot the collagen in a series of spots along the outer lip line, and then grabs the lip and literally molds it into the shape you both have agreed upon.

About the time you've washed your face (you'll have a tiny bit of bleeding at the injection sites) and walked to your car, you'll feel some swelling and stinging. About a half-hour later, it's gone.

Collagen isn't forever. It lasts about three months and then slowly disappears.

Downside? If you get a sinus infection, it may cause some edema, which pushes the collagen clumps closer to the surface, causing your face to be red and swollen until antibiotics kick in.

Price: $350 and up.

Comments: You can wear lip gloss again. Your lips feel slightly bee-stung, but kissing doesn't hurt.

Collagen alternative

For those folks who don't like the idea of shots or are allergic to collagen, Luftman suggests Softform by Collagen Corp. She explains, ``It's a one-time procedure that lasts forever - or until you want it removed ... and the doctor uses a stylette to make three or more tiny incisions at the bow of the mouth and the corners. Then a tiny bit of Gortex (the stuff in your ski parka) is implanted and stitched closed.''

Price: $1,500 and up.

Comments: It's the same material used for blood vessel repair.

Beauty creams

You're not really concerned yet, but you're noticing fine lines? Keep in mind there are no magic moisturizers, but a little daily care can go a long way to keeping that youthful glow.

We tried Alpha Hydrox AHA Enchanced Lotion Facial Treatment from the drug store but soon got bored. It didn't seem to work fast enough but did eventually make skin slightly smoother. You'll need to wear sunscreen and moisturizer because products with alpha hydroxy acids make your skin a little sensitive, and you may experience some tingling or stinging.

An alternative is Almay's new Time-Off, an age-smoothing line of products made with a mild, nonirritating natural sugar derivative called Gentle Glucose Complex.

TV talk-show hostess Kathie Lee Gifford, a spokewoman for the Time-Off products, says in the promotional material that she uses it morning and night, and especially likes the Age Smoothing Cleansing Lotion followed by Age Smoothing Tone and Age Smoothing Moisture Lotion.

Other new products to try are Re Vive, a beauty cream with a hint of coconut fragrance and a bunch of EGF, a hormone secreted in wounded skin to stimulate cell division and collagen production; and Osmotics Blue Copper Firming Elasticity Repair, with real copper in it to stimulate the cross-linking of collagen and elastic, according to company spokeswoman Francine Porter. Time will tell if these ingredients work, but meanwhile, you'll like the immediately softening effects of these rich creams, as they don't feel like a layer of petroleum jelly on your skin.

Others that rate high in this category are extra-rich Source Extreme by Chanel and Visible Energie by Yves St. Laurent.

For lighter, daytime protection, Chanel's Hydra-Serum Corps, a multi-vitamin body moisture gel that softens skin on contact, makes a healthy makeup base, as does Neutrogena Moisture, which is super if you're prone to adult acne.

Price: $10 to $100.

Comments: Beauty creams make your skin feel nice, but don't expect miracles.

Scrub wrinkles away

Dermabrasion was a hot wrinkle remover in the '80s, but a lot of folks found it a painful, bloody procedure (think of the time you fell off your bike and got an asphalt burn on your knee).

However, it inspired numerous companies to create exfoliating scrubs to remove dead cells, smooth your face and produce a temporary glow. The main ingredients are usually ground up fruit seeds that act like sandpaper when friction is applied.

Some we liked a lot are Origins' new Never A Dull Moment, Freeman Beautiful Skin Raspberry and Almond Scrub, and Skinplicity Exfoliator with Vitamins E and C.

The Origins product is made with papain, a fruit enzyme that is supposed to dissolve lackluster cells and make them disappear with the friction provided by finely ground apricot and mango seeds, while the Freeman brand relies more on the friction angle and Skinplicity has very little friction and more vitamins and enzymes.

Scrubs can be used daily with terrific results ... and they provide a smooth, even surface for fake tanning creams and foundation. But don't use them immediately before or after any dermatology treatments, or after serious sun exposure, or your face will look and feel like raw meat.

Price: $3 to $20.

Comments: The cheapest beauty treatment available, with immediate results.

Moisturizer magic

Have your kids teased you that your makeup foundation is so heavy that you look like you've been embalmed? Or worse yet, you look like an aging hooker (remember that episode in ``Cagney & Lacey'')?

Baby boomer complexions can get revitalized with the newest generation of tinted moisturizers that don't have that medicinal smell of the '80s. Two of our faves are Sebastian's Trucco tinted moisturizer with sunscreen (recommended by some dermatologists to protect skin that's been acid-peeled), and the new Aveda Base Plus Balance foundation with rose water to calm the skin.

Price: $10 and up.

Comments: Translucent, youthful coverage for all ages. We recommend the type with sunscreen.

Wrinkle war time line

1900 - Actress Lillie Langtry endorses Pear's soap for a radiant complexion.

1904 - The world's first youth in a jar is created, Guerlain's Creme Secret de Bonne Femme.

1930 - Elizabeth Arden invents the Eight-Hour Cream.

1935 - The beauty biz comes to Los Angeles with the House of Westmore and Max Factor salons.

1936 - Lancome opens a skin-care salon in Paris.

1938 - Food, Drug and Cosmetics Act imposes penalties for products with dangerous ingredients; the Wheeler-Lea Amendment that prohibited misleading advertisements is passed.

1943 - Estee Lauder starts selling beauty creams; soldiers start using anti-sunburn lipsticks.

1950 - Housewives try improving their complexions with household ingredients such as mayonnaise, avocados, egg whites, honey and oatmeal.

1954 - Max Factor invents Erase, which claims to hide everything from pimples to wrinkles.

1978 - La Prairie creates beauty creams made with cell extracts.

1980 - The exfoliating craze begins with facial scrubs made of ground apricot seeds and other natural ingredients.

1983 - Elizabeth Arden Lip Fix, which claims to keep lipstick from bleeding beyond the lip line, is biggest seller in company history.

1986 - Annual skin cream sales up to $1.9 billion.

1987 - Paco Rabanne launches first anti-wrinkle product for men; Food and Drug Administration objects to false claims of age-retardation products such as Revlon's Anti-Aging Firmagel and heart surgeon Dr. Christiaan Barnard's wrinkle-reducing creams.

1988 - A 63 percent increase in cosmetic surgery is reported.

1989 - Skin dermabrasion (often called skin resurfacing and peels) to remove acne scars and wrinkles becomes popular with the lunch bunch.

1990 - Alpha hydroxy acids in face and hand creams promise to make your skin look younger with time and repeated use. Numerous companies offer their own version.

1998 - Fake tanning is commonplace; beauty creams now contain vitamins C and E, and Dead Sea salt; everyday housewives are going for monthly fruit acid peels at their dermatologist's office and collagen injections twice a year.

- Barbara De Witt

Makeup tricks

As you get older, less is more.

No more girlie frosted eye shadows or goopy gloss in a pot for you (it settles into all those fine lines and looks icky). And rethink that trendy frosted nail polish, as it makes your hands look older.

Avoid teen-age fads, such as pink or green eye shadow, glitter gels (like Drew Barrymore) and glossy eye shadow sticks (they settle in creases), and go for the ageless makeup style of boomer beauties such as Cher and Jaclyn Smith.

According to Judith August, a Beverly Hills pioneer in corrective cosmetics, ``Women over 40 need better coverage with a semi-translucent quality that looks more natural.''

Most important, she says, is to go matte. ``Shine from oils or frosted colors only draw attention to facial lines and wrinkles ... so use matte powder eye shadows, blush and lipstick,'' she advises.

For lipstick, August suggests lining the lips with a pencil to avoid lipstick bleed. Apply to outer edges of lips; apply lipstick; blot; powder lightly; and apply again.

Other tips. Be careful about those lipsticks that say they'll stay on forever and not bleed, as they're really drying on older skin. Two lipstick brands that are kind to older skin are Sebastian and MAC Cosmetics. Chanel and Estee Lauder also offer good, creamy coverage.

Finally, make sure your bathroom or makeup table has plenty of bright light and a magnifying mirror available. Take a good look to see that makeup is well-blended; that brows are softly filled in (use a brush and brow powder instead of a pencil); that lipstick and blush haven't bled; and that your skin does show through (remember, it's supposed to be translucent).

If your face is too shiny, use a dab of tinted loose powder (translucent powders claim to be for everybody, but they can make you look ghostly).

- Barbara De Witt

CAPTION(S):

6 Photos, 2 Boxes

Photo: (1--Cover--Color) On the cover: Jaclyn Smith, the former ``Charlie's Angels'' star, is among the baby boomers turning 50 and fighting wrinkles. She claims she maintains her youthful look by eating lots of fruits and veggies and projecting happiness and confidence.

(2--Color) One of the newest home wrinkle remedies sold by dermatologists is ChanTal, made with ethocyn to make your skin more supple and smooth.

(3--Color) Getting your face fixed? Keep it protected with a heavy-duty sunscreen, such as Estee Lauder's new Advanced Suncare.

(4--Color) Gly Derm home maintenance kit is a four-step kit made with glycolic acid, sold by doctors. Users are advised to use water-based makeup with it.

(5--Color) AlphaMax, a new at-home mini facial peel, was developed by Beverly Hills dermatologists Jeffrey Marmelzat and Richard Salit. They claim you'll have great results within six weeks.

(6--Color) no caption (assortment of skin care products)

John McCoy/Daily News

Box: (1) WRINKLE WAR TIME LINE (See Text)

(2) Makeup tricks (See Text)