FISHING FOR COMPLIMENTS ANY WAY YOU COOK IT, THEY'LL FALL HOOK, LINE AND SINKER FOR SALMON.Byline: Natalie Haughton Food Editor Salmon ranks third (following shrimp and tuna) as the most popular fish choice in the American diet. ``Meaty, flavorful, high in fat and packed with health-enhancing omega-3 fatty acids This is a list of omega-3 fatty acids. Common name Lipid name Chemical name α-Linolenic acid (ALA) 18:3 (n-3) octadeca-9,12,15-trienoic acid Stearidonic acid 18:4 (n-3) octadeca-6,9,12,15-tetraenoic acid , fresh wild salmon is the ideal fish to serve for weeknight week·night n. A night of the week exclusive of Saturday and Sunday. week  nights meals and parties,'' write Hugh Carpenter and Teri Sandison, authors of ``Fast Fish'' (Ten Speed Press; $19.95). Although the fresh Pacific wild salmon season runs from April or May through early October, you can buy it frozen or canned year-round. When it's out of season, some consumers and restaurants opt for serving farm- raised fresh Atlantic salmon Atlantic salmon Oceanic trout species (Salmo salar), a highly prized game fish. It averages about 12 lbs (5.5 kg) and is marked with round or cross-shaped spots. Found on both sides of the Atlantic Ocean, it enters streams in the fall to spawn. , which is available all year. Assume that salmon not labeled wild is farm-raised, but ask to be sure. Due to a moratorium on net pen fish farming Fish farming is the principal form of aquaculture, while other methods may fall under mariculture. It involves raising fish commercially in tanks or enclosures, usually for food. in California, you won't find any farm-raised salmon produced in this state. Alaska also has no salmon farms. However farm-raised salmon comes from many other locations including Oregon, British Columbia, Maine, Chile, Norway and Scotland. But be aware that all farm-raised salmon is not the same. There are some boutique farmers offering high-quality farm-raised salmon. Salmon prices vary, too. Wild (fresh or frozen) Pacific salmon usually costs more than farm-raised Atlantic salmon, even when wild is in season. Currently, farm-raised fresh fillets or steaks range from about $4 to $11 per pound, while frozen wild salmon is in the neighborhood of $14 per pound, and fresh wild (depending on species) in season commands anywhere from $10 to $22 or $24 a pound (Copper River king). Controversy and buzz swirl around eating wild Pacific salmon vs. farm- raised Atlantic salmon. Which is preferable? In the end, it boils down to consumer preference; economic, environmental and health concerns; and personal risk-benefit assessment. ``The challenges of wild vs. farmed salmon are both environmental and economic,'' writes Diane Morgan in her book, ``Salmon, a Cookbook'' (Chronicle Books; $24.95), a colorful volume filled with a wealth of salmon industry information along with 75 recipes. ``The bottom line is that we have Atlantic salmon and Pacific salmon - and (wild) Atlantic salmon was wiped out in the 1960s by greed and sonar.'' Today, Atlantic salmon is widely farmed - a practice that began in Norway in the late '60s and early '70s. Currently a handful of multinational companies control most of the farms. Over the years, pollutants, antibiotics in feed, excess feed and feces on the ocean floor and other factors have been cause for concern, adds Morgan. In addition, because farm fish aren't swimming freely and feeding naturally (they're penned), they are gray in color, requiring that either synthetic or natural color be added (and labeled as such by law). In a nutshell, the controversy comes down to ``are we going to wipe out all natural species of fish (and go to aquaculture aquaculture, the raising and harvesting of fresh- and saltwater plants and animals. The most economically important form of aquaculture is fish farming, an industry that accounts for an ever increasing share of world fisheries production. ) or are we going to preserve the environment and let fish be sustainable and harvestable as wild species?'' says Morgan. ``Alaska is the model for the world - it is the most regulated state for sustaining wild salmon stocks. It has high yields of harvestable fish because it controls how much fishermen can catch and when. ``California, Oregon and Washington are regulating the amounts of fish that can be caught, but the dams are one of the biggest problems. The fish can't get around them or upstream - and you lose the population on that river,'' says Morgan. Alaska produces 90 percent to 95 percent of the U.S. harvest of wild salmon - and about half of the nation's entire commercial seafood catch along its 34,000-mile coastline, says Laura Flemming, communications director of the Juneau-based Alaska Seafood Marketing Institute. ``Most everyone says that wild salmon is better than farmed salmon, but I remain unconvinced,'' writes James Peterson in ``Simply Salmon'' (Stewart, Tabori & Chang; $22.50). ``High-quality Scottish farm-raised fresh salmon from the Shetland Islands is always among our top 10 seafood sellers,'' notes Ted Bassetti, Sherman-Oaks based assistant regional seafood coordinator for Whole Foods Market, adding that the market also carries wild Pacific salmon in season and flash-frozen Pacific salmon. Bassetti, who eats both wild and farmed salmon, finds farm-raised Atlantic salmon richer than wild salmon, but with similar texture. Seafood Watch at the Monterey Bay Aquarium The Monterey Bay Aquarium, which is located in a former sardine cannery on Cannery Row in Monterey, California, is one of the largest and most respected aquariums in the world. It has an annual attendance of 1.8 million and holds 35,000 plants and animals representing 623 species. advises consumers to avoid all farm-raised Atlantic salmon, recommending only wild Pacific salmon for environmental reasons, notes Jennifer Bianto, program manager of Seafood Watch, an organization focused on the environmental impact of fisheries and fish farms and alerting consumers to seafood health-risk advisories (related to dioxins, pesticides, PCBs, etc.) from a variety of sources. While various species of fresh wild salmon are offered in season (May to September) at King's Fish House in Calabasas, at other times, farm-raised fresh Atlantic salmon is served, notes sous-chef Aleandro Acosta, adding that salmon and halibut halibut: see flatfish. halibut Any of various flatfishes, especially the Atlantic and Pacific halibuts (genus Hippoglossus, family Pleuronectidae), both of which have eyes and colour on the right side. are the top two sellers. When buying salmon, be sure it has no smell or odor other than a slightly salty-breeze or hint-of-ocean aroma, says Bassetti. It should be moist (including any skin) and a healthy pink color. If buying a whole salmon, look for clear eyes, bright red gills and moist skin. If you can't cook salmon the day it's purchased, keep refrigerated re·frig·er·ate tr.v. re·frig·er·at·ed, re·frig·er·at·ing, re·frig·er·ates 1. To cool or chill (a substance). 2. To preserve (food) by chilling. and use within two or three days at most, advises Bassetti. Otherwise freeze it. Before cooking, thaw in the refrigerator for 24 hours Adv. 1. for 24 hours - without stopping; "she worked around the clock" around the clock, round the clock for best results. Whether you opt for wild or farmed salmon, it's a versatile fish. ``You can grill it, smoke it, pan-fry it, pan-grill it, roast it, poach poach damage caused to sodden pasture by the hooves of cattle and sheep. In clay soils and when the ground is sufficiently wet the damage caused by a heavy stocking rate of sheep may be very high. Said also of the take-off in front of a jump in an equitation course or a race. it, slow-roast it and cure it,'' says Morgan, a culinary instructor, freelance food writer and author of 10 other cookbooks. One of her favorite ways to cook it - particularly easy for the beginning cook - is slow roasting - which takes 20 minutes in a preheated 250-degree oven. She also favors using a grill pan. To keep the salmon moist, cook just until it begins to flake. Nutritionally, it's one of the best protein sources. A 4-ounce cooked salmon steak contains just under 200 calories. Natalie Haughton, (818) 713-3692 natalie.haughton(at)dailynews.com GRILLED SALMON TACOS WITH CHIPOTLE chi·pot·le n. A ripe jalapeño pepper that has been dried and smoked for use in cooking. [American Spanish, from Nahuatl xipotli.] Noun 1. SAUCE 1 salmon fillet fillet /fil·let/ (fil´et) 1. a loop, as of cord or tape, for making traction on the fetus. 2. in the nervous system, a long band of nerve fibers. fil·let n. 1. (1 1/2 pounds), skin on and scaled, pin bones removed 2 tablespoons olive oil 1/4 cup Blackening black·en v. black·ened, black·en·ing, black·ens v.tr. 1. To make black. 2. To sully or defame: a scandal that blackened the mayor's name. 3. Spice Vegetable oil for brushing 12 corn tortillas 1/2 head cabbage (8 ounces), cored and finely shredded (about 5 cups) 3 green onions, including green tops, quartered lengthwise length·wise adv. & adj. Of, along, or in reference to the direction of the length; longitudinally. Adj. 1. lengthwise and cut into 1-inch lengths 3 tablespoons fresh lime juice 2 ripe tomatoes, halved crosswise, cored, seeded and cut into 1/4-inch dice Chipotle Sauce Prepare a medium fire in a charcoal grill or preheat a gas grill to medium. Arrange salmon, skin side up, on a rimmed baking sheet. Oil skin generously with about 1 tablespoon olive oil. Turn salmon over and rub flesh side all over with Blackening Spice. Using your fingertips "Fingertips" is a 1963 number-one hit single recorded live by "Little" Stevie Wonder for Motown's Tamla label. Wonder's first hit single, "Fingertips" was the first live, non-studio recording to reach number-one on the Billboard Pop Singles chart in the United States. , lightly dab remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil over Blackening Spice. When ready to grill, brush grill grate generously with vegetable oil. Grill salmon, skin side up, directly over fire. Cover grill and cook on one side 4 minutes. Turn and cover again. Cook about 5 minutes more, until almost opaque throughout, but still very moist or until an instant-read thermometer inserted in the center registers 125 to 130 degrees F. Transfer to a cutting board and cool slightly. Meanwhile, place tortillas in a covered heatproof heat·proof adj. Unaffected by heat. Used especially of plastic, glass, or ceramic utensils that may be used directly over a flame or in an oven. container or sealed foil packet. Warm tortillas in a preheated 250-degree oven 15 minutes before serving. In a medium serving bowl, toss together cabbage, green onions and lime juice. Place tomatoes in a small serving bowl. Slice salmon crosswise into 12 strips, lift salmon off its skin, and arrange on a warm serving plate. Discard skin. Transfer warm tortillas to a serving plate. Let each diner assemble his or her own tortilla. To assemble, spread a generous spoonful of Chipotle Sauce down middle of a tortilla, arrange a strip of salmon on top, mound with a bit of the cabbage mixture and garnish with some diced tomatoes. Makes 12 tortillas; 6 servings. BLACKENING SPICE: Combine 2 tablespoons kosher salt, 2 tablespoons sugar, 1 tablespoons freshly ground pepper, 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon cayenne pepper, 2 tablespoons paprika paprika: see pepper. , 1 tablespoon dried thyme and 1 tablespoon dried oregano oregano (ərĕg`ənō), name for several herbs used for flavoring food. A plant of the family Labiatae (mint family), Origanum vulgare, in a small bowl. Stir well to blend. Store in an airtight jar in a cool, dark place for up to 6 months. Use in recipe above or on red snapper, swordfish swordfish, large food and game fish, Xiphias gladius, of the warmer Atlantic and Pacific waters, related to the sailfish. It is named for its sharp, broad, elongated upper jaw, which it uses to flail and pierce its prey of smaller fish, rising beneath a school , catfish, shrimp and scallops. This mixture is also good when rubbed into burgers, flank steak and pork tenderloin. Makes about 2/3 cup. CHIPOTLE SAUCE: In a small serving bowl, mix together 1 cup mayonnaise, 3 tablespoons buttermilk buttermilk residual fluid after removal of fat from milk in butter manufacture; a protein-rich supplement fed to pigs. OR sour cream, 2 minced canned chipotle chiles in adobo sauce
tr.v. re·frig·er·at·ed, re·frig·er·at·ing, re·frig·er·ates 1. To cool or chill (a substance). 2. To preserve (food) by chilling. up to 3 days. Makes 1 1/4 cups. From ``Salmon, a Cookbook,'' by Diane Morgan. SALMON CAKES 1 salmon fillet (12 ounces), skin and pin bones removed 2 teaspoons olive oil Kosher OR sea salt Freshly ground pepper 4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) unsalted butter 1 tablespoon peeled and minced fresh ginger 1/2 cup diced white onion 1/2 cup finely diced celery 1/2 cup finely diced red bell pepper 1/2 cup mayonnaise 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice 1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper 1 teaspoon minced fresh thyme 2 teaspoons snipped fresh chives chives alliumschoenoprasm. 2 tablespoons minced fresh flat-leaf parsley 1 1/4 cups panko (Japanese bread crumbs) 2 tablespoons vegetable oil Place salmon in a shallow baking dish, rub all over with olive oil and season lightly with salt and pepper
Meanwhile, in a nonstick non·stick adj. Permitting easy removal of adherent food particles: a frying pan with a nonstick surface. nonstick Adjective skillet or saute sau·té tr.v. sau·téed, sau·té·ing, sau·tés To fry lightly in fat in a shallow open pan. n. A dish of food so prepared. pan, melt 2 tablespoons butter over medium heat and swirl to coat pan. Add ginger, onion, celery and bell pepper. Saute, stirring frequently, until vegetables are soft but not brown, about 4 minutes. Add 1/2 teaspoon salt and a few grinds of pepper. Set aside to cool. In a mixing bowl, combine mayonnaise, lemon juice, cayenne pepper, thyme, chives and parsley. Stir to blend. Using a fork, flake salmon into small pieces and add to mixing bowl. Add vegetables. Using a rubber spatula spatula /spat·u·la/ (spach´u-lah) [L.] 1. a wide, flat, blunt, usually flexible instrument of little thickness, used for spreading material on a smooth surface. 2. a spatulate structure. , gently mix ingredients, being careful not to mash salmon. Form mixture into 12 cakes about 1 3/4 inches in diameter and 1/2 inch thick. Place salmon cakes on a rimmed baking sheet, cover, and refrigerate for at least 40 minutes or up to 8 hours. To finish and fry salmon cakes, spread panko crumbs on a dinner plate and roll salmon cakes in panko, coating all sides well. Set aside. In a large saute pan, preferably cast iron, heat remaining 2 tablespoons butter and oil over medium-high heat. Swirl to coat pan. Working in batches and without crowding pan, brown salmon cakes on one side, about 3 minutes, then flip them over and brown other side, about 3 minutes longer. Serve immediately, accompanied with jicama ji·ca·ma n. A crisp, sweet turnip-shaped root vegetable (Pachyrhizus erosus) used raw in salads and as crudités or cooked in stews. Also called Mexican turnip, yam bean. or other slaw slaw n. Chiefly Southern U.S. Coleslaw. Noun 1. slaw - basically shredded cabbage coleslaw salad - food mixtures either arranged on a plate or tossed and served with a moist dressing; usually consisting of , as desired. Makes 12 salmon cakes; 6 servings as an appetizer. From ``Salmon, a Cookbook,'' by Diane Morgan. HONEY MUSTARD-SEARED SALMON AND CARAMELIZED SHALLOTS WITH WATERCRESS watercress, hardy perennial European herb (Nasturtium officinale) of the family Cruciferae (mustard family), widely naturalized in North America, found in or around water. 1 1/4 pounds skinless salmon fillet, cut into 4 equal pieces Salt and freshly ground pepper 2 tablespoons honey mustard 3 tablespoons butter 1/4 cup chopped shallots 2/3 cup dry white wine 1/3 cup creme fraiche OR heavy whipping cream Noun 1. heavy whipping cream - cream with a fat content of 48% or more double creme cream - the part of milk containing the butterfat 1 cup watercress sprigs Season salmon lightly with salt and generously with pepper. Smear fish on both sides with mustard. In a large skillet, heat 2 tablespoons butter. Sear sear 1 v. seared, sear·ing, sears v.tr. 1. To char, scorch, or burn the surface of with or as if with a hot instrument. See Synonyms at burn1. 2. salmon over high heat, turning once, until browned on both sides and just cooked through, about 8 minutes. Use a spatula to transfer salmon to a platter. Add remaining 1 tablespoon butter to skillet and cook shallots over medium-high heat, stirring until golden, 1 to 2 minutes. Reduce heat to medium, add wine, and simmer 2 minutes. Reduce heat to medium-low, stir in creme fraiche, and simmer, stirring, until heated through. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Return fish to sauce just to heat through, about 30 seconds. Arrange salmon on a platter or on 4 plates. Spoon sauce over fish, then top with watercress sprigs. From ``A Flash in the Pan, Fast Fabulous Recipes in a Single Skillet,'' by Brooke Dojny and Melanie Barnard. ROASTED SALMON WITH ROASTED PLUM TOMATOES & CARAMELIZED LEMONS 4 plum tomatoes, quartered Olive oil 8 to 10 sprigs fresh thyme Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 2 (7- to 8-ounce) salmon fillets, about 1 1/2 inches at their thickest point Handful fresh dill sprigs 1 lemon, cut in half Place plum tomatoes in a shallow baking dish, drizzle with olive oil and scatter thyme sprigs over all. Season with salt and black pepper to taste. Roast in a preheated 400-degree oven about 15 to 20 minutes, until tomatoes are softened but still retain their shape. Cover loosely with foil and set aside. Reduce oven temperature to 350 degrees. Lay salmon fillets, skin sides down, with some space between them on a baking sheet or baking dish. Season with salt and black pepper to taste and cover with dill. Squeeze 1/2 of lemon over all. Bake until firm, 15 to 20 minutes. Meanwhile, slice remaining lemon half into 1/4-inch slices. Heat a skillet over high heat. Film bottom of pan with olive oil and add lemon slices. Saute until brown on both sides, about 3 to 4 minutes total. Remove from heat and set aside. Remove foil from tomatoes. Discard herb sprigs. Places tomatoes on a cutting board and roughly chop. Spoon chopped tomatoes into center of each of 2 plate. Lay a piece of salmon over tomatoes and lay lemon slices to side of salmon. Serve immediately. From ``Food Network Favorites: Recipes from Our All-Star Chefs.'' Fish finder Varieties of Pacific Coast salmon, native to North America: KING OR CHINOOK Chinook, indigenous people of North America Chinook (shĭn  k`, chĭ–), Native American tribe of the Penutian linguistic stock. Has the highest oil content of all five species of wild salmon and the richest flavor. The largest of all Pacific salmon, most weigh 15 to 20 pounds but can be up to 120 pounds. Color ranges from off-white to pinkish or bright red. Wild king salmon are usually available from mid-May until late September. Copper River king salmon can be found in the marketplace in May and June. This salmon is often smoked due to the fat content, which helps the flesh retain its moistness. COHO OR SILVER Close in flavor to chinook (but with a lower oil content), but smaller in size - 8 to 12 pounds. Has firmly textured flesh that ranges from deep red to pinkish orange. Season is from July to early October with peak in August. SOCKEYE OR RED Popular as a premium canning variety and for smoking, this salmon ranges from 5 to 15 pounds, with most around 6 pounds. Bright deep-orange flesh with a high fat content. Supply peaks in July. PINK OR HUMPBACK humpback: see hunchback. The most numerous of all Pacific salmon species (representing about 50 percent of all salmon caught in Alaska), this species averages 3 to 5 pounds. Flesh is pale pink and lean with a milder flavor than other species. Used widely for canning. CHUM OR KETA Lightest in color and lowest in fat, chum weigh about 8 to 10 pounds. STEELHEAD Average between 5 and 9 pounds. Flesh is bright red and rich or pink to white, depending on diet. A top sport fish in North America. - Natalie Haughton Sources: ``Salmon, a Cookbook,'' by Diane Morgan, and ``Fast Fish,'' by Hugh Carpenter and Teri Sandison. CAPTION(S): 6 photo, box Photo: (1 -- cover -- color) Salmon is king Grilled, broiled broil 1 v. broiled, broil·ing, broils v.tr. 1. To cook by direct radiant heat, as over a grill or under an electric element. 2. To expose to great heat. v. , roasted or poached poach 1 tr.v. poached, poach·ing, poach·es To cook in a boiling or simmering liquid: Poach the fish in wine. , popular fish shows its versatility Photo by E.J. Armstrong from ``Salmon, a Cookbook,'' Chronicle Books (2 -- color) ROASTED SALMON WITH ROASTED PLUM TOMATOES & CARAMELIZED LEMONS From ``Food Network Favorites: Recipes From Our All-Star Chefs,'' Meredith Books (3 -- color) SALMON CAKES Photo by E.J. Armstrong from ``Salmon, a Cookbook,'' Chronicle Books (4 -- color) Serve store-bought or homemade smoked salmon on crostini and top with a dollop of mascarpone mas·car·po·ne n. A fresh soft Italian cheese with a high butterfat content, made from cow's milk enriched with cream. [Italian, augmentative of dialectal mascarpa, whey cheese. cheese, a little arugula arugula or rocket Yellowish-flowered European herbaceous plant (Eruca vesicaria sativa), of the mustard family, cultivated for its foliage, which is used especially in salads. and sliced fried shallots. CROSTINI WITH SMOKED SALMON Photo by Sang An from ``Smoked Salmon, Delicious Innovative Recipes,'' Chronicle Books (5 -- color) GRILLED SALMON TACOS WITH CHIPOTLE SAUCE (6 -- color) HONEY MUSTARD-SEARED SALMON AND CARAMELIZED SHALLOTS WITH WATERCRESS Box: Fish finder (see text) |
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