FIRST STEPS OF A TANGO ARGENTINO.

Byline: Larry Lipson Daily News Restaurant Critic

La Casona is lively, yet cautious.

Situated a hop or two north of Moorpark Street in Sherman Oaks, this latest incarnation of 4447 Van Nuys Blvd. has warm, attentive Argentine flair in a spacious courtyard setting.

But when it comes to food, they're proceeding cautiously.

Using a single-page introductory prix-fixe menu rather than the full-size a la carte bill of fare, La Casona has yet to unveil its full scope.

Meanwhile, customers of the first few weeks have seen a significant physical change to what used to be Carmelo's, a jazz spot; Seafare of the Aegean, an interesting but ill-fated seafood house; and various other concepts including Middle Eastern and a traditional supper club.

The opened-up front, with narrow sidewalk patio, projects the lively beat of South American music onto the busy thoroughfare. Owner-host Carlo Zappala and his staff greet and wait on patrons with unbounded enthusiasm while co-owner and chef Alberto Mourino gradually shapes up his kitchen.

Thwarted by the pending status of its liquor and entertainment license, Mourino and Zappala have been serving complimentary nonalcoholic sparkling wine to evening diners.

And the kitchen's prix-fixe menu of contemporary continental-style dinners ($13.95 or $15.95) has been chosen for a holding pattern until the licenses are approved.

But if you wheedle Senor Zappala somewhat, he'll have chef Mourino whip up some puffy, meaty empanadas as a starter.

And on the heaping antipasto platter they've been serving as part of the prix-fixe, three-course dinner, Mourino will add chicken escabeche to tasty fire-roasted sweet peppers, dollops of marinated calamari and shrimp, skin-on roasted potatoes, a variety of sliced cold cuts and crunchy pickled or marinated vegetables.

The chicken escabeche eventually will be one of two poultry (the other being duck) and three seafood escabeches (seabass, tuna or mixed shellfish) served as appetizers. Escabeches are marinated and cooked (La Casona uses a traditional clay pot), but served cold.

A basket of thick, crisp slices of garlic toast accompanies both the antipasto and a bowl of Mourino's spinach-green-hued version of minestrone.

These are the substantial starter offerings, with each of seven main courses inscribed on the interim menu.

Poached salmon ($15.95) is nicely executed with Provence-style preparation of fine herbs, garlic, fresh tomatoes and white wine.

Breast of chicken ($15.95) also comes up moist and tasty, although instead of the sweet Marsala saucing with mushrooms promised on the menu, the plate arrived one time with a lemony piccatalike mixture.

On the visit when Argentine recipes were tasted, a supposed slice or two of matambre appeared to be more like chicken or pork with a tomato sauce than the traditional Argentine dish of rolled beef around carrots, pimiento and hard-boiled egg, then sliced, yielding colorful slabs served cold or hot.

But the bulky, meal-size antipasto platter with a side order of empanadas and a saucer of piquant, garlicky, green chimichurri dipping sauce served that evening totaled a mere $9.80, most certainly a bargain.

Unfortunately, pork loin ($15.95) tried another day was cooked in an interesting manner - with tiny diced vegetables and a surprising Marsala-sweet sauce - but was unappealingly tough.

Still, there's an infectious, likable quality to La Casona, even in its pains of infancy.

The restaurant intends to present live jazz entertainment, offer tango dance instruction and even ceramic classes. Seems ambitious. Let's hope it works.

THE FACTS The restaurant: La Casona.

Where: 4447 Van Nuys Blvd., Sherman Oaks.

When: Open for lunch from 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. and for dinner from 5:30 to 11:30 p.m. daily except Monday.

Recommended items: Spinach minestrone, antipasto platter, empanadas, chicken escabeche, poached salmon Provencale, breast of chicken piccata.

How much: Current menu offers three-course prix-fixe dinners for $13.95 or $15.95. Future menu has starters from $3 to $8, pastas from $9 to $11, entrees from $11 to $17, desserts from $3 to $6. Alcohol license pending. All major credit cards.

Reservations: Helpful. Call [phone].

Our rating: Three Stars for food; Three Stars for service.

MEMO: Larry Lipson's restaurant news reports and reviews are broadcast at 3:47 p.m. each Monday through Friday and 11:47 a.m. Fridays and Saturdays on K-NEWS (KNNS-AM 1260 and KNNZ-AM 540).

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Photo

Photo: Chef Alberto Mourino and co-owner Carlo Zappala disp lay introductory offerings at La Casona in Sherman Oaks.

John McCoy/Daily News