FEATURE/Engagement Rings Through the Ages.

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FEATURE...Summer Beauty & Bridal

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CARLSBAD, Calif.--(BUSINESS WIRE)--May 28, 2003

The engagement ring's romantic traditions resonate throughout time.

The Romans first introduced the betrothal ring as a plain iron hoop. Among the gentry, the iron ring was worn while indoors and replaced with the more valuable gold band when outdoors. As early as the 4th century AD, inscriptions, elaborate or as simple as "honey," embellished the inside of the band. According to Macrobius, a 5th century Roman writer, the betrothal ring was worn on the fourth finger of the left hand. It was believed that from that finger a special vein ran directly to the heart. To this day, the centuries-old custom of wearing an engagement ring in this way has endured.

During the Middle Ages, sapphires and rubies initially adorned the engagement ring, and diamonds were incorporated in the 15th century. The earliest written record of the use of a diamond in an engagement ring was in 1477 by a Dr. Moroltinger, who advised the future Holy Roman Emperor Maximillian to have a ring set with a diamond for his betrothal to Mary of Burgundy. Diamonds stood for the fortitude of a lifelong partnership. Early cutting techniques caused gems to look dull and even black, according to the Gemological Institute of America (GIA), the world's foremost authority in the grading and identification of diamonds and gemstones. Compensating for these lackluster stones, goldsmiths designed elaborate settings, composed of such romantic notions as rosettes and fleur-de-lis, symbolizing the bride's purity.

With the discovery of diamonds in Brazil in the 18th century, diamond jewelry became more available, and diamond cluster engagements rings were in vogue.

Widespread wealth, initiated by the 19th century's Industrial Revolution and the rich supply of newly discovered African diamond mines, made diamonds available to a greater public. Diamond experts at GIA also note that this period was marked by innovative developments in cutting and polishing, resulting in diamonds exhibiting a brilliance greater than any other gem. The diamond now could stand alone, and thus, the solitaire engagement ring became fashionable.

The simple elegance of the classic Tiffany mounting, introduced in 1886 by Charles L. Tiffany, offered an ideal complement to the beauty of the diamond. With the diamond set high in an open, six-prong mounting, the design permitted greater amounts of light to enter the gem, allowing it to exhibit maximum brilliance.

The expert scientists, researchers, graders, and instructors at the nonprofit GIA agree that a diamond is an extraordinary symbol of love. If you are considering buying a diamond ring, visit www.gia.edu, where a special link has been created for brides and engagements. GIA, creator of the International Diamond Grading System based on the 4 Cs, also features an interactive tutorial, "How to Buy a Diamond," on its Web site. For more information about GIA's world-renowned education, call 800/421-7250.

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