FALLING FOR PUMPKIN SEASON'S MOST POPULAR SQUASH HAS MORE USES THAN YOU CAN SHAKE A WITCH'S BROOMSTICK AT.

Byline: Natalie Haughton Food Editor

With autumn in the air, thoughts turn to pumpkin.

Pumpkin pie and pumpkin cheesecake rank among the top dessert favorites, but beyond that there's a wealth of other good pumpkin eating in store. Possibilities range from stews, soups and butters to breads, bars and cakes. In our travels through cookbooks and restaurant menus, we've even spotted some stuffed raviolis, pizzas, pasta sauces, stratas and tamales featuring pumpkin.

While some recipes feature cut-up cubes of pumpkin (mostly stew, pasta and entree type dishes), the majority use pureed pumpkin.

Now, the dilemma - do you cook fresh pumpkin and puree it - or rely on canned pumpkin puree? Although making your own fresh puree is not difficult, it takes time and patience. After giving fresh a whirl a few times over the years (frankly it's really not worth the effort), it's easy to see why busy cooks rely on the convenient canned products - either plain puree or canned pumpkin pie mix (containing sugar and spices), which are always available in supermarkets.

Libby's has 80 percent of the canned U.S. pumpkin market share, notes Roz O'Hearn, director, division and brand affairs of the company. Its 100 percent pure pumpkin is packed in 15- and 30-ounce cans, while the easy pumpkin pie mix is available in only one size - a 30-ounce can. If you don't use the entire can at once, you can transfer any leftover to a sealed container, refrigerate and use within a week - or freeze up to three months.

If you have time and want to try your hand at making fresh puree from scratch, you can steam, boil, bake or microwave pumpkin pieces (see accompanying directions). Experts advise avoiding large pumpkins best suited to jack-o'-lanterns as they are generally bland, fibrous and watery. They recommend using varieties such as sugar or pie pumpkin - weighing around 5 to 7 pounds. Smaller is better when it comes to cooking. If you purchase your pumpkin from a grower, ask about the best one for cooking.

Select firm, dark-orange pumpkins, heavy for their size and free of cracks, scars or spots.

That said, I've cooked up run-of-the-mill medium-size pumpkins of unknown varieties from the supermarket with good, edible results - both cubes and puree. Although some suggest cutting away the hard skin before cooking, the easiest way is to remove it after cooking. If fresh pumpkin turns out too watery once it's cooked and pureed, you can eliminate some of the moisture by cooking in a large skillet over low heat.

When you use fresh pumpkin in recipes, figure that 1 pound raw, uncooked pumpkin will yield about 3/4 to 1 cup cooked, mashed pumpkin. Pumpkin is in the same nutritional camp with other squash. You can figure that one cup unseasoned pureed pumpkin has about 75 to 80 calories and just a trace of fat. Pumpkin is also high in vitamin A and dietary fiber. Store whole pumpkins at room temperature up to a month or refrigerate up to three months.

CHICKEN WITH PUMPKIN AND ZUCCHINI

2 1/2 to 3-pound meaty chicken pieces (breasts, thighs and drumsticks), cut up and skinned

1/4 cup finely chopped onion

2 cloves garlic, minced

2 medium potatoes, peeled and cut in 1-inch cubes

2 cups peeled, 1-inch cubes pumpkin OR winter squash

2/3 cup dry white wine OR reduced-sodium chicken broth

1 teaspoon dried rosemary, crushed

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon pepper

2 medium zucchini, sliced 1/4-inch thick

Lemon wedges (optional)

Rinse chicken; pat dry with paper towels. Spray an unheated 12-inch skillet with nonstick cooking spray. Preheat skillet over medium heat. Add chicken and cook 10 to 15 minutes or until lightly brown, turning to brown evenly and adding onion and garlic during the last 5 minutes of cooking. Add potatoes and pumpkin.

Combine wine, rosemary, salt and pepper; pour over chicken and vegetables. Bring mixture to boiling; reduce heat. Cover and simmer 25 minutes. Add zucchini. Cover and cook about 5 minutes more or until chicken and vegetables are tender and chicken is no longer pink. Using a slotted spoon, transfer chicken and vegetables to a serving platter. Pass pan juices. If desired, serve with lemon wedges. Makes 6 servings.

From Better Homes and Gardens magazine.

FARFALLE WITH PUMPKIN AND PECORINO CHEESE

1 tablespoon olive oil

1/4 pound pancetta, diced

1 medium onion, finely chopped

2 pounds pumpkin, seeded, peeled and cut into 3/4-inch dice (about 5 to 6 cups)

1/2 cup chicken broth, homemade OR canned low-sodium

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 pound farfalle (bow tie) pasta

2 tablespoons butter

1/3 cup grated pecorino romano cheese

3 tablespoons chopped Italian parsley

Heat oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add pancetta and cook until crispy, about 5 minutes. Add onion and continue cooking until golden, 5 to 7 minutes. Add pumpkin and chicken broth. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Cover and cook until tender, about 20 minutes. (The recipe can be made ahead to this point.)

To cook pasta, bring a gallon of water to a boil, then add a teaspoon of salt and pasta. Cook until just tender, about 10 minutes. Drain pasta thoroughly, then add to pumpkin mixture. Return mixture to stove and cook 3 or 4 more minutes, gently tossing until liquid is absorbed. Stir in butter; toss with cheese and parsley and adjust seasoning. Serve immediately with additional cheese on the side. Makes 4 to 5 servings.

From ``The Great Little Pumpkin Cookbook,'' by Michael Krondl.

SPICED PUMPKIN AND SHRIMP SOUP

2 medium onions, sliced

2 medium carrots, sliced (1 cup)

1 tablespoon snipped fresh cilantro

2 teaspoons grated fresh ginger

1/2 teaspoon ground allspice 

2 cloves garlic, minced

2 tablespoons butter OR margarine

1 (14-ounce) can chicken broth

1 (15-ounce) can 100 percent pure pumpkin (puree)

1 cup milk

1 (8-ounce) package frozen peeled and deveined cooked shrimp, thawed

Plain yogurt OR dairy sour cream (optional)

Snipped fresh chives

In a large saucepan, cook onions, carrots, cilantro, ginger, allspice and garlic in hot butter, covered, 10 to 12 minutes or until vegetables are tender, stirring once or twice.

Transfer vegetable mixture to a blender container or food processor bowl. Add 1/2 cup chicken broth. Cover and blend or process until nearly smooth.

In same saucepan, combine remaining 1 1/4 cups broth, pumpkin and milk. Stir in blended vegetable mixture and shrimp; heat through. If desired, serve topped with plain yogurt and chives. Makes 4 servings (about 5 3/4 cups).

From ``Better Homes and Gardens New Cookbook,'' 12th edition.

PUMPKIN CHOCOLATE CHIP CAKE

1 (18.25-ounce) package plain yellow cake mix

1 (15-ounce) can 100 percent pure pumpkin (puree)

1/4 cup water

2 large eggs

2 teaspoons pumpkin pie spice

2 teaspoons baking soda

1 cup semisweet chocolate chips

1 cup finely chopped pecans 

1 tablespoon powdered sugar, for garnish

Lightly mist a 12-cup Bundt pan with vegetable oil spray, then dust with flour. Shake out excess flour. Set pan aside.

Place cake mix, pumpkin, water, eggs, pumpkin pie spice and baking soda in a large mixing bowl. Blend with an electric mixer on low speed 1 minute. Stop machine and scrape down sides of bowl with a rubber spatula. Increase mixer speed to medium and beat 2 minutes more, scraping sides down again if needed. The batter should look thick and well combined. Fold in chocolate chips and pecans, making sure they are well distributed throughout batter. Spoon batter into prepared pan, smoothing out with rubber spatula.

Bake cake in center of preheated 350-degree F oven 42 to 46 minutes, until lightly browned and cake springs back when lightly pressed with finger. Remove pan from oven and place on a wire rack to cool 20 minutes. Run a long, sharp knife around edge of cake and invert onto a rack to cool completely, 20 minutes more. Slide cake onto a serving platter, dust with powdered sugar and slice. Makes 1 cake.

NOTE: Store cake, wrapped in foil or plastic wrap, at room temperature 4 to 5 days. Or freeze, wrapped in foil, up to 6 months (thaw overnight in refrigerator before serving).

From ``Chocolate From the Cake Mix Doctor,'' by Anne Byrn.

EASY PUMPKIN CREAM PIE

1 (15-ounce) can 100 percent pure pumpkin (puree)

1 (5.1-ounce) package INSTANT vanilla pudding and pie filling mix

1 cup milk

1 teaspoon pumpkin pie spice

2 cups frozen nondairy whipped topping, thawed

1 (9-inch) prepared graham cracker crust

1 cup fresh raspberries, (optional)

Combine pumpkin, pudding mix, milk and pumpkin pie spice in a large mixer bowl; beat 1 minute or until blended. Fold in 1 1/2 cups whipped topping. Spoon into crust. Freeze for at least 4 hours or until firm. Let stand in refrigerator 1 hour before serving. Garnish with remaining whipped topping and raspberries. Serve immediately. Makes 8 servings.

PUMPKIN PECAN PIE SQUARES

1 cup all-purpose flour

1/2 cup old-fashioned OR instant oats

3/4 cup packed brown sugar

1/2 cup butter OR margarine

3/4 cup granulated sugar

1 (15-ounce) can 100 percent pure pumpkin (puree)

1 (12-ounce) can evaporated milk

2 large eggs

2 1/4 teaspoons pumpkin pie spice

1/2 cup chopped pecans

Whipped cream

Combine flour, oats, 1/2 cup brown sugar and butter in a small mixer bowl. Beat at low speed 1 to 2 minutes or until crumbly. Press on bottom of ungreased 13x9-inch baking pan. Bake in preheated 350-degree oven 15 minutes.

Combine granulated sugar, pumpkin, evaporated milk, eggs and pumpkin pie spice in a large mixer bowl. Beat at medium speed 1 to 2 minutes; pour over crust. Bake 20 minutes. Combine pecans and remaining 1/4 cup brown sugar in a small bowl. Sprinkle pecan topping over filling. Continue baking 15 to 25 minutes or until knife inserted in center comes out clean. Cool completely in pan on wire rack. Cut into bars. Serve, topped with whipped cream. Makes 12 servings.

MAPLE PUMPKIN CHEESECAKE

1 1/4 cups graham cracker crumbs

1/4 cup sugar

1/4 cup butter OR margarine, melted

3 (8-ounce) packages cream cheese, softened

1 (14-ounce) can sweetened condensed milk (NOT evaporated milk)

1 (15-ounce) can 100 percent pure pumpkin (puree)

3 eggs

1/4 cup pure maple syrup

1 1/2 teaspoons ground cinnamon

1 teaspoon ground nutmeg

1/2 teaspoon salt

Maple Pecan Sauce

Combine crumbs, sugar and butter; press firmly on bottom of 9-inch springform pan. With mixer, beat cream cheese until fluffy. Gradually beat in sweetened condensed milk until smooth. Add pumpkin, eggs, maple syrup, cinnamon, nutmeg and salt; mix well.

Pour over crust in springform pan. Bake in preheated 325-degree oven 1 1/4 hours or until center appears nearly set when shaken. Cool 1 hour. Cover and chill at least 4 hours.

To serve, spoon some Maple Pecan Sauce over cheesecake. Garnish with additional pecans, if desired. Pass remaining sauce. Store leftovers, covered, in refrigerator. Makes 1 cheesecake.

MAPLE PECAN SAUCE: In medium saucepan, combine 1 cup (1/2 pint) whipping cream and 3/4 cup pure maple syrup; bring to boil. Boil rapidly 15 to 20 minutes or until slightly thickened; stir occasionally. Stir in 1/2 cup chopped pecans. Cover and chill until served. Stir before serving.

Want to cook fresh pumpkin and puree it? Here's how.

BAKED: To bake a fresh 6- to 7-pound pumpkin, halve the pumpkin crosswise and scoop out the seeds and strings. Place halves, hollow side down, in a large baking pan and add a little water. Bake, uncovered, in preheated 375-degree oven 1 1/2 to 2 hours or until fork tender. Remove. When cool, scrape pulp from shells and puree, a little at time, in food processor or blender. Mix with a little salt.

BOILED: Place a 3-to 4-pound pumpkin, cut into 2- to 3-inch chunks, in a saucepan along with a quart of boiling water and a sprinkling of salt. Cover. Boil gently about 25 to 30 minutes or until fork tender. Drain, peel and puree to use in other recipes, or serve chunks with a sprinkling of pepper and a couple of tablespoons of butter for a vegetable.

STEAMED: Place pumpkin chunks in a steamer over rapidly boiling water. Cover. Steam over medium heat 30 to 35 minutes or until fork tender. Drain well, cool and peel. Season and serve or mash or puree in a food processor to use in other recipes.

MICROWAVE: Halve a small pumpkin or cut a larger one into big chunks. Place pieces, flesh side down, in a microwave-proof dish with a little water. Cover with plastic wrap and cook on high power, checking and turning often, until fork tender. Figure a 4- to 5-pound pumpkin, cut in half, will take around 16 to 24 minutes on high power. Cool, drain off any liquid and remove peel. Puree in food processor or blender.

TO REMOVE EXCESS MOISTURE: To drive off any excess moisture from pureed fresh pumpkin, heat, uncovered over low heat, stirring occasionally. Cool for use in recipes. Season as desired (with a little cream, pepper and butter), beat with an electric mixer, if desired, and serve as a vegetable puree alongside meats, fish or poultry.

- N.H.

CAPTION(S):

4 photos, box

Photo:

(1 -- cover -- color) it's the great pumpking

Autumn squash is more versatile than you imagined

(2 -- color) PUMPKIN PECAN PIE SQUARES

(3 -- color) MAPLE PUMPKIN CHEESECAKE

(4 -- color) no caption (Pumpkins)

Tina Burch/Staff Photographer

Box:

Want to cook fresh pumpkin and puree it? Here's how. (see text)