FALLING FOR LOLA.

Byline: Larry Lipson Restaurant Critic

IMPOSSIBLE TO SEE from passing cars, tiny Lola Grill has replaced the Tangerine Cafe in the far reaches of a shopping center anchored by Target on the northeast corner of Ventura Boulevard at De Soto Avenue in Woodland Hills.

Lola produces good, moderately priced Argentine food with almost everything under $12. The exceptions are a large multimeat parrillada for two at $18.99; a ``chivito'' platter listed under ``milanesas'' with filet steak, ham, cheese, bacon and fried eggs for $13.99; the house filet mignon steak for $13.99; and a T-bone for $12.99.

If it's steak you want at Lola, my recommendation is the juicy New York ($11.99) that comes with a choice of rice, salad, mashed potato or fries. Douse it with the Argentines' wonderful chimichurri sauce that makes just about anything taste good, and you have satisfaction plus.

But you can also have fun at Lola ordering several entradas (appetizers), the most expensive being Argentine ham (``prociutto,'' $8.99), the least, empanadas ($1.50 each).

The traditional cold meat roll often stuffed with carrot, egg and sweet pepper, matambre ($6.99) is nicely done by the Lola kitchen. It comes paired with a tasty potato salad.

But the big winners in the starter department here are the tortilla Espanola ($3.99) with not the slightest resemblance to the tortillas of Mexico, and a couple of specialty tarts.

In Spain, a tortilla is a sort of thick omelet. And the Espanola one made here is large enough for sharing and particularly gratifying, offering potato, onion, red pepper, garlic and sausage as its savory main ingredients, all held together, of course, by eggs.

Moving from tortilla to tart, Lola has the art of the tart down pat. There's a simple ham and cheese one ($3.50) that's very good. But even better is the quichelike ``Pascualina'' ($3.50), a strongly Italian-influenced creation that brings together the goodness of spinach, ricotta cheese, egg and parmesan cheese.

Empanadas have various stuffings, with the ham and cheese or the cheese and onion versions at the top of my preferred list. Also worth trying are the beef and chicken empanadas.

Diners here might also find available on occasion these flavorful Argentine turnovers filled with mixtures containing spinach, corn or tuna.

And don't forget, they're only $1.50 each.

A familiar type of antipasto arrangement called ``picada Lola'' ($3.99 per person) includes a small cold portion of the aforementioned tortilla Espanola along with salami, provolone cheese, mortadella, prosciutto- style ham, regular ham and pickles.

Sandwich fanciers will undoubtedly welcome Lola's more than a dozen offerings, especially my favorite, the traditional ``choripan,'' combining the words for sausage and bread, and putting forth a really sensational sausage sandwich boosted with chimichurri for only $3.99.

In most cases, Lola's fare can be perceived as a bargain. Main-course plates, for example, appear to overflow with food.

Milanesa dishes, both chicken and beef ($7.99 each), provide plenty to eat. And what easily could end up dry and unappetizing instead arrives moist and flavorful.

Pastas like the ``canelones de espinaca'' ($8.99) are delicious examples of spinach and ricotta-stuffed cannelloni. One time a special of the day had skillfully executed portions of both the canelones and gnocchi (``noquis de papa,'' $8.99) on the plate.

Sometimes, patience is needed because the food takes a while before appearing. But the wait is definitely worthwhile.

Hola, Lola.

Larry Lipson, [phone]

larry.lipson(at)dailynews.com

LOLA GRILL

Food: three and one half stars - Service: three stars - Value: three stars

Where: 20839 Ventura Blvd., Woodland Hills.

Hours: Open for lunch, dinner and snacks from 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily, to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday.

Recommended items: Tortilla Espanola, empanadas, tarts, matambre, picada Lola, New York steak, chicken or beef milanesas, canelones, choripan.

How much: Starters and sandwiches from $1.50 to $11, pastas and entrees from $7 to $14, desserts from $3 to $4. No alcohol. All major credit cards.

Reservations: Helpful. Call [phone].

CAPTION(S):

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Photo:

New York steak with black pepper and potato cream is a specialty at the Argentine Lola Grill in Woodland Hills.

Evan Yee/Staff Photographer