FABULOUS AT 40 LE PETIT CHATEAU STILL FLOURISHING.

Byline: Larry Lipson Restaurant Critic

Restaurants enjoying their fourth decade are not only rare in the San Fernando Valley, they're almost impossible to find.

Quietly, Le Petit Chateau has continued steadily in North Hollywood, cooking basically the same traditional French food (with some exceptions) introduced by its French founder-chef-owner in the mid-'60s.

A model of consistency, the restaurant draws as much as 85 percent repeat and regular customers, according to co-owner Christiane Higgs, also born in France and the niece of the founder.

The restaurant's proximity to major studios, broadcast and production facilities in the East San Fernando Valley has resulted in a longtime affiliation with the entertainment industry. For many years, Johnny Carson, Ed McMahon and other ``Tonight Show'' personalities regularly gather at Le Petit Chateau after the daily taping at NBC.

Bob Hope, a resident of nearby Toluca Lake, would turn up periodically for dinner. And today, many of the television stars and cast members working down the street at Universal Studios choose Le Petit Chateau when in the mood for a French meal.

--Name: LE PETIT CHATEAU.

--Address: 4615 Lankershim Blvd., North Hollywood.

--Phone: [phone].

--When we last reviewed: Jan. 6, 1988.

--How long in business: Since April 1964.

--Menu/cuisine changes: When the restaurant made its debut, dishes like tripes a la mode, quiche Lorraine, tournedos Rossini and daube were commonplace in French restaurants. You rarely find them on today's menus, however, Le Petit Chateau occasionally brings them back as specials. Interestingly, such yesteryear favorites as steak Diane (a roll-shape version rather than the usual butterflied style), sweetbreads (pan-broiled with bearnaise sauce), vol-au-vent (filled puff pastry shell), coquilles St. Jacques (creamed scallops in a shell), grenadine of veal, beef Wellington and Chateaubriand bouquetiere can be found on the current menu. And escargots (snails) are available in their shells as an appetizer (half-dozen) or entree (full dozen) along with bouillabaisse, which is generally obtainable on Fridays and Saturdays.

--Decor/physical changes: Other than cosmetic changes and red upholstery becoming green, little has been altered from the original interior. And the castlelike exterior sporting gray-tiled turrets still beckons invitingly.

--Personnel changes: Founder and chef-owner Francois Sirgant semi-retired in 1975 and fully retired in 1980. He now lives in Palm Springs. Current chef Beto Solis came to work as a dishwasher when he was 19 years old. Now 50, he has been head chef since Sirgant's semi-retirement in 1975. Christiane Vives, Sirgant's niece, joined the restaurant as hostess-manager in 1969. In 1987 as Christiane Higgs, she and husband Andrew Higgs, a former Sheraton Hotels marketing director, took over the business and the property.

--Recommendable dishes: Escargots, soups, sweetbreads, coq au vin, steak tartare, beef Wellington, calf's liver.

--Service quality: Co-owners are constantly on the premises greeting and hosting. Brisk, attentive and knowledgeable staffers appear to handle tables efficiently

--Pricing: Easily tripled since its debut when entrees ran as low as $5 to $7. Starters now range from $5 to $11.25, entrees from $19 to $28, desserts (all made on premises) from $5 to $6. Soup or salad is served with entrees. All major credit cards are accepted.

--Wine list/service: Wines, once almost 100 percent French, are now 65 percent Californian. Seventy-label list has no vintage dates. Bottles run from $19 to $190. Corkage: $12.

--Policies worth mentioning: Prix-fixe, three-course dinner ($21.50), served Monday nights, offers six entree options. Pre-theater dinners are usually available when El Portal presentations are running. Bastille Day dinner is every July 14 and there's a beaujolais nouveau wine promotion annually.

--Miscellaneous comments: The restaurant received its first national DiRona award for dining excellence in 1996, which has been renewed every year since.

--Our latest ratings: three stars for food; two stars for wine; three stars for service.