Evoke, elicit, extract: essence. (Back to Basics).

The true essence of a final dish boasts rich visual appeal, aromas, concentrated flavors, appealing textures, varying temperatures, and, of course, a dash of personality. How a chef chooses to achieve these effects relies on a myriad of techniques and ingredients paired with a bit of come-from-within ingenuity.

Considering all the pomp and circumstance involved in creating a meal befitting a Michelin-starred caliber restaurant, a chef's quest to create perfection in each dish seems daunting and, for many, simply impossible. What is within a chef's grasp, however, is the ability to maximize the essence of his or her dish by developing a refined sense of discernment when choosing ingredients. Good chefs may go through the motions of ingredient shopping at green markets without taking the time to get to know their purveyors -- settling for what they perceive is the best rather than pursuing the exceptional. A great chef, however, knows that in the end, the quality of his or her cuisine rests with the purveyor or producer who is continuously chasing perfection. These providers of ingredients are truly a great chef's life's blood. Purveyors' passion for perfection manifests itself in the works of the chefs to whom they provide superior ingredients -- which brings us back to the magic word essence with all its various sha des of meaning.

In it truest form, the word essence, as it relates to food, is the extraction or drawing out of flavor; this process is usually accomplished by use of some sort of action or force. When it comes to cooking, though, the word takes on a broader meaning. Infusing, distilling, macerating, deglazing and reducing -- all, in one way or another, contribute to the essence of a final product. Any of these methods used to impart essence first requires a keen understanding of -- as well as respect for -- ingredients and the manner in which they react with one another. By using numerous techniques, it's easy to take somewhat mundane ingredients and by simply varying a preparation or technique, push them to the pinnacle of intense flavor.

In addition to the processes employed to enhance a dish's essence, the ingredients also clearly communicate their own flavors, and with the smallest amount of coaxing -- perhaps by using just the proper amount of salt added just at the right time in the cooking process -- the finished product stands out in a crowd. Paradoxically, a single ingredient conveys its essence simply and distinctly apart from the dish, and yet, at the same time, it enhances all the flavors within a dish, becoming an integral part of the final composition.

Cooking vegetables in their own juices, although not a new concept, is a perfect illustration of how to bring out the vegetables' essence. In addition, same ingredient, flavor-infused stocks used for soup making, vinaigrettes, and sauces seem like natural combinations. For Chef Michael Leviton of Lumiere, essence typifies what his menu is all about: "With the topic of essence, I felt like I could have pulled anything off of my menu and it would have applied. Obviously, with some foods, it's easier to achieve this than with others. Many of our soups, which are really simple purees of a specific ingredient itself combined with that same ingredient, end up with layers of that flavor and there's nothing else. We use very little chicken stock other than for chicken sauce -- it doesn't go into our soup. When we make mushroom soup, we use mushroom stock or corn stock for corn soup. There are no auxiliary flavors, just the true and pure flavors of the dominant ingredient. This, to me, is what cooking is all about -- stripping away extraneous flavors and getting at the heart of the matter."

ALEX GRUNERT

Alex Grunert's love of pastry developed at an early age while he was working at the Hotel Intercontinental in Vienna. Today, pastry chef Alex Grunert of Danube is able to channel his creative passion into desserts that often border on the unexpected -- as witnessed by a dish he's created that includes ice cream infused with subtle asparagus flavor: "I try to think about my desserts a little differently. Although I do look to the four seasons for inspiration, that's just my starting place. From there, it's about connecting with the ingredients and meshing that with my cuisine without things becoming contrived. Obviously, the market and gourmet shops are key in helping me to decide what ingredients I'll be using, but that's not where it ends. I'm constantly checking out old cookbooks for recipes that trigger new ideas -- one thought feeding off of another. I also enjoy magazines that have great food photography but don't really ever bother with the recipes that go with them -- I'd rather do my own thing when it comes to the recipes themselves."

Proud to share his culinary heritage with his patrons, Chef Grunert wants his diners to experience his vision of Austrian food. Although Austrian cooks are known for their liberal use of heavy sauces and cream, Grunert is very aware that Americans are constantly searching for lighter fare: "I think diners are surprised at the lightness of my dishes, They often will not order dessert thinking that it will be too heavy after having a meal. If this is the case, I like to send out a complimentary dessert and ten times out often, the plate will come back licked clean! I really just want them to have a good time and enjoy the food -- their experience at Danube should always be exceptionally memorable."

When asked about how he approached the topic of essence for Art Culinaire, Chef Grunert was eager to share his thoughts: "The subject matter was somewhat difficult for me. I'm not the type of chef that can come up with an idea right off the top of my head like many of my peers in this field are able to do. I like to take some time to think about different possibilities, then come up with a couple of ideas to follow through on. I found this situation to be true when broached about how to portray essence through my desserts. I spent a couple of sleepless nights racking my brain how best to go about it. I ended up working with flower extracts and different fruit oils. The flavors and aromas from these ingredients can be pretty intense and are not items I necessarily like to use. I was pleased with my results, though, so I think my insomnia actually paid off."

MICHAEL LEVITON

"My mom wrote a cookbook when I was growing up -- a low-cholesterol, kosher cookbook. Although I certainly don't cook that way now, I think it brought about an awareness from within that flavors can be manipulated. It also introduced me to cooking on the whole. I know it definitely sensitized me to a world of cooking techniques as well as the marrying of different flavors."

While working in a deli during his high school years, Michael Leviton distinctly remembers a customer asking him if cooking was ever something he would want to make a career out of, to which he responded, "No way I'd ever want to do this for a living." Thankfully for those that are lucky enough to experience the whole dining experience at Lumiere, Leviton reconsidered his initial response to the customer's query. While attending college, he decided to take a bit of time off from his studies and came to the realization that he didn't have any solid work skills other than those he had developed while working in kitchens: "I fell into it much harder the second time around -- something really clicked. For the first time, I felt this was something I was meant to do. So as soon as I finished college, I hightailed it to San Francisco and bounced around at a couple of small places before landing at Joyce Goldstein's kitchen in Square One. I truly felt lucky to be working in such good kitchen with so little experience . I was there for over two years. At that time, the menu was changing everyday -- I saw so much. I worked my way through all the stations and got to do and see everything. With menu changes being so frequent, I learned about the world of flavor -- not just about French cooking or Italian cooking -- Joyce was adamant that we learn traditional techniques and flavors from all parts of the globe. After that, I went to France and that experience just blew my mind. I ate in three, 3-star restaurants in three days. So, as soon as I got back to the States, I made it my mission to get into a French kitchen."

Leviton's next step was working alongside Alain Rondelle at Ernie's: "Alain eventually sent me to work with Daniel Boulud at Le Cirque. It was here that I think I truly learned how to cook. It wasn't so much the day-to-day existence of Le Cirque that taught me how to survive a war zone -- it was watching Daniel cook. I've never seen as gifted a cook as Daniel. He would use the simplest of ingredients to create a dish. There were no measurements, his techniques were flawless, and he was doing all of this at 100 miles per hour. It was incredibly simple food at its best -- phenomenal. Almost more then anything, this experience influenced the way I cook today."

From there, Chef Leviton moved on to Le Bernadin to work pastry with Francois Payard. Asked how he fared during his experience at Le Bernadin, Leviton readily admits, "Let's just say that after working in one French kitchen, it probably wasn't a great idea to work in another. After the pressure of working at Le Cirque, it was difficult to be as motivated in the same kind of environment. I was no longer intimidated, and that can be an issue. If this is the modus operandi in a kitchen and it doesn't really work for you, then it's probably time to find another place that does. In other words, I probably shouldn't have been there, and they probably shouldn't have hired me! So that experience ended rather quickly, but it did teach me pastry, which is important for any chef. It taught me a higher level of precision which I know definitely carries over to how I run the kitchen today."

In 1999, Michael Leviton and his wife, Jill, opened Lumiere, located about five miles outside of Boston. Lumiere is the type of dining establishment that is both inviting and unpretentious: "I think people these days are somewhat intimidated by the formality or pomp and circumstance of many city restaurants. I just wanted a quiet neighborhood place, with a certain level of sophistication and great food -- a place that makes people happy."

Tangerine Cloud with Huckleberry Sauce and Sour Cream Sorbet

(Serves 6)

ALEX GRUNERT

Ingredients

For the sour cream sorbet:
8 ounces sour cream
8 ounces buttermilk
4 ounces confectioners' sugar
2 ounces lemon juice
1 ounces glucose

For the blueberries:
1 cup blueberries
1 1/1 ounces granulated sugar
1 vanilla bean, split

For the tangerine cloud:
5 egg whites
4 ounces confectioners' sugar
3 egg yalks
1 ounce cornstarch
7 ounces tangerine juice
3 leaves gelatin, softened in cold water
1/4 teaspoon tangerine oil

For the tangerine gelee:
7 ounces tangerine juice
1 ounce granulated sugar
1/2 ounce apple pectin
1/4 teaspoon tangerine oil

For the huckleberry sauces:
2 cups huckleberries **
1 ounce granulated sugar
1 1/2 ounces water
1 small apple, peeled, cored, and diced
1 ounce creame de cassis
1 ounce white wine

For the garnish:
Mint leaves
"Available through Zingerman's at [phone].
"Available through Earthly Delights at [phone].

directions

For the sour cream sorbet: In a bowl, combine all of the ingredients and whisk to combine. Freeze in an ice cream machine according to the manufacturer's instructions.

For the blueberries: In a saucepan, combine all of the ingredients. Bring to a boil and cook for five minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool. Remove and discard the vanilla bean.

For the tangerine cloud: Place six 6-ounce ramekins on a sheet pan. Place the egg whites in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the whisk attachment. Whisk until doubled in size. Maintain the speed and gradually add three and one-half ounces of the sugar in a steady stream, whisking until stiff peaks form. In a small bowl, combine the egg yolks and the cornstarch and whisk until well combined. In a saucepan, bring the remaining sugar and tangerine juice to a boil. Add the egg yolk mixture while whisking constantly. Bring to a boil and add the gelatin leaves. Remove from the heat; strain through a fine mesh sieve and let cool slightly. Fold in the egg whites and add the tangerine oil. Spoon the mixture into the ramekins until half filled. Spoon the blueberries evenly into each ramekin and cover with the remaining tangerine mixture. Place in the refrigerator for two hours. Invert the remekins onto a parchment-lined sheet pan.

For the tangerine gelee: In a saucepan, combine all of the ingredients, Bring to a boil, remove from the heat and set aside to cool slightly. Pour the mixture over the tangerine clouds evenly and set aside in the refrigerator.

For the huckleberry sauce: In a saucepan, combine the huckleberries, sugar, water, and apple. Bring to a boil; reduce the heat and simmer until the apple is soft, about seven minutes. Remove from the heat and transfer to a blender. Blend until smooth, about one minute. Strain through a fine mesh sieve and place over an ice bath. When cool, whisk in the creme de cassis and white wine.

To serve: Place a tangerine cloud to one side of a plate. Place a scoop of sour cream sorbet next to it. Drizzle the sorbet and plate with the huckleberry sauce. Garnish with mint leaves.

Ruster Eiswein-Elfenhof Exclusiv J. and E. Holler Burgenland, Austria 1997

Sour Cream souffle with Rose Water Ice Cream

(Serves 4)

ALEX GRUNERT

ingredients

For the rose water ice cream:
9 ounces milk
9 ounces heavy cream
2 1/2 tablespoons trimoline
2 3/4 ounces granulated sugar
3 egg yolks
1/2 teaspoon ice cream stabilizer
1/2 teaspoon milk powder
1 teaspoon rose water

For the creme anglaise:
14 ounces heavy cream
1 vanilla beans, split and scraped
2 3/4 ounces granulated sugar
1 egg yolk
1/4 teaspoon vanilla extract

For the tuiles:
1 1/2 ounces unsalted butter, softened
2 ounces confectioners' sugar, sifted
1 1/2 ounces egg whites
1 3/4 ounces cake flour, sifted

For the sour cream souffle:
3 egg whites
2 ounces confectioners' sugar
Butter, softened, as needed
Sugar, as needed
7 ounces sour cream
3 egg yolks
1 small vanilla bean, split and scraped
Zest of 1 small lemon
Zest of 1/2 orange
1/4 teaspoon vanilla extract
3 egg whites
2 ounces granulated sugar
Salt to taste

For the garnish:
Sugared rose petals
Sugared mint leaves

Note: This tuile recipe yields approximately forty-five 2 1/2-inch
cookies.

directions

For the rose water ice cream: In a saucepan, bring the milk, cream, and trimoline to a boil and remove from the heat. In a double boiler, whisk together the egg yolks, ice cream stabilizer, and milk powder until pale and smooth. Remove from the heat and temper the egg yolks, adding one-third of the hot cream while whisking constantly. Whisk the tempered egg yolks into the hot cream and cook, stirring constantly until the cream is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon. Remove from the heat; strain through a fine mesh sieve and set aside in an ice bath until chilled. Add the rose water and stir to combine. Freeze in an ice cream machine according to the manufacturer's instructions.

For the creme anglaise: In a large saucepan, bring the cream and vanilla beans to a boil. Reduce the heat and maintain at a simmer. In a bowl, combine the sugar and egg yolk and whisk until pale and smooth. Remove from the heat and temper the egg yolk mixture, adding one-third of the hot cream while whisking constantly. Whisk the tempered egg yolk mixture into the hot cream and cook, stirring constantly until the crSme anglaise is thick enough to coast the back of a spoon. Remove from the heat and strain through a tine mesh steve. Add the vanilla extract and stir to combine. Set aside in an ice bath until chilled.

For the tuiles: Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. In a bowl, combine the butter and sugar and mix until combined. Add the egg whites until combined. Spread the mixture into four 2 1/2-inch ovals on a silpat-lined sheet pan and bake until golden brown.

For the sour cream souffle: Preheat the oven to 425 degrees. Butter and sugar four 6-ounce remekins. In a bowl, combine the sour cream, egg yolks, vanilla bean seeds, lemon zest, orange zest, and the vanilla extract. Season with salt and whisk to combine. Place the egg whites in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with a whisk attachment. Whisk the egg whites until doubled in size. With the mixer running, gradually add the confectioners' sugar in a steady stream, whisking until stiff peaks form. Gently fold the egg white mixture into the sour cream souffle mixture and pour into the ramekins. Place the ramekins into a hot water bath and into the oven. bake until light brown in color, about thirty minutes.

To serve: Invert the sour cream souffle onto a plate and remove the mold. Place a quenelle of the rose water ice cream on a tuile next to the souffle. Drizzle the plate with the creme anglaise and garnish with the sugared rose petals and mint leaves.

Gruener Veltliner, Trockenbeerenauslese

Willi Bruendlmayer

Kamptal, Austria 1998

Apple Creme Brulee with Lemon Oil and Lemon Grass Sauce

(Serves 6)

ALEX GRUNERT

ingredients

For the apple chips:
1 Granny Smith apple, halved, cored, and thinly sliced
7 ounces simple syrup
1/8 teaspoon citric acid

For the roasted apples:
4 Golden Delicious apples, peeled, cored, and diced
3 1/2 ounces sunflower honey *

For the lemon oil creme brulee:
14 ounces heavy cream
3 1/4 ounces granulated sugar
4 egg yolks
3 gelatin leaves, softened in cold water
3/4 teaspoons lemon oil
Granulated sugar as needed

For the lemon grass sauce:
17 1/2 ounces peeled, cored, and diced Golden Delicious apples
5 1/4 ouncess granulated sugar
10 ounces water
2 small stalks lemon grass, trimmed and finely chopped

For the garnish:
Mint sprigs
Confectioners' sugar

* Available through Zingerman's at (734) 663 - 3354.

directions

For the apple chips: Preheat the oven to 200 degrees. In a bowl, combine all of the ingredients and set aside for five minutes. Place the apple slices on a silpat-lined sheet pan and put in the oven to dry for 30 minutes. Discard the liquid.

For the roasted apples: Place six 6-ounce ramekins on a sheet pan. In a saucepan, combine the apples and the honey. Bring to a simmer and cook until the apples become soft, about five minutes. Remove from the heat and divide the apple mixture evenly between the ramekins. Place in the refrigerator.

For the lemon oil creme brulee: In a saucepan, bring the heavy cream to a boil. In a bowl, combine the sugar and egg yolks until smooth. Temper the egg yolks, adding one-third of the hot cream while whisking constantly. Whisk the tempered yolks into the hot cream and bring to 185 degrees. Add the gelatin and whisk until melted. Strain through a fine mesh sieve and place in a bowl over an ice bath. When cool, mix in the lemon oil and pour the mixture into the ramekins filed with the apple mixture. Place in the refrigerator until set, about two hours.

For the lemon grass sauce: In a saucepan, combine all of the ingredients except for the lemon grass and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer until the apples are very soft, about thirty minutes. Using a hand held immersion blender, puree the apples until smooth. Add the lemon grass and simmer for an additional 15 minutes. Remove from the heat; strain through a fine mesh sieve and set aside, keeping warm.

To finish the lemon oil creme brulee: Invert the ramekins onto a parchment-lined sheet pan and sprinkle the brulees with the granulated sugar. Using a hand-held propane torch, caramelize the sugar.

To serve: Place a lemon oil creme brulee to one side of a plate and place three apple chips around the brulee. Spoon a portion of the sauce around the brulee. Garnish with mint and sprinkle with confectioners' sugar.

Sauvignon Blanc, Furmint, Ruster Ausbruch

Schrock

Burgenland, Austria 1999

Red Wine Figs with Orange Blossom Ice Cream

(Serves 10)

ALEX GRUNERT

ingredients

For the red wine figs:
17 ounces red wine
9 ounces port wine
4 ounces creme de cassis
1 ounces orange juice
5 ounces granulated sugar
8 ounces black mission figs, quartered

For the orange blossom ice cream:
8 ounces whole milk
8 ounces heavy cream
1 ounces trimoline
2 ounces granulated sugar
2 egg yolks
3/4 teaspoon ice cream stabilizer
1 teaspoon dry milk powder
1 teaspoons orange blossom water
2 drops pure orange extract

For the almond baskets:
7 ounces confectioners' sugar
1 1/2 ounces all-purpose flour
3 1/2 ounces sliced almonds,
 toasted and lightly crushed
1/8 teaspoon almond extract
1/2 orange, zested
2 1/2 ounces orange juice
2 1/2 ounces melted butter

For the almond foam:
4 eggs yolks
2 ounces granulated sugar
2 ounces whole milk
1/8 teaspoon almond extract
4 ounces whipped cream

For the garnish:
Aged balsamic vinegar Julienned mint leaves
"Available through Paris Gourmet at [phone].

For the red wine figs: In a saucepan, combine the red wine, port, crSme de cassis, orange juice, and sugar. Bring to a boil; reduce the heat and simmer until reduced by half, about 15 minutes. Strain through a fine mesh sieve. Place the figs in a bowl and pour the red wine mixture over the figs. Set aside overnight at room temperature.

For the orange blossom ice cream: In a saucepan, combine the milk, heavy cream, and trimoline. Bring to a boil; reduce the heat and maintain at a simmer. In a bowl, combine the sugar, egg yolks, ice cream stablizer, and dry milk powder. Whisk to combine and temper by adding one-third of the hot cream while whisking constantly. Whisk the tempered egg yolks into the hot cream and place over medium heat, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon. Once the mixture reaches 185 degrees, remove from the heat and strain through a fine mesh sieve. Using a hand-held immersion blender, blend the mixture for one additional minute. Strain through a fine mesh sieve and set aside in an ice bath until chilled. Add the orange blossom water and orange extract. Freeze in an ice cream machine according to the manufacturer's instructions.

For the almond baskets: Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Place ten 6-ounce ramekins on a sheet pan. In a bowl, add all of the ingredients and mix to combine. Place the mixture in the refrigerator for two hours. Place ten 1-tablespoon size balls of the mixture onto a silpat-lined sheet pan and flatten each into a round about three inces in diameter. Place for one minute. Place the rounds into the ramekins and set aside to cool.

For the almond foam: In a bowl, combine the egg yolks, sugar, and milk. Place over a double boiler and whisk until the mixture reaches 165 degrees. Remove from the heat and place over an ice bath until cooled. Add the almond extract and fold in the whipped cream.

To serve: Place an almond basket in the center of a plate and fill with a portion of the red wine figs. Place a small scoop of the orange blossom ice cream on top of the figs. Spoon a portion of the almond foam around the almond basket and drizzle the plate with the aged balsamic vinegar. Garnish with the julienned mint leaves.

Takaji 6 Puttonyos Takaji Oremus Hegyajia, Hungary 1995

Violet Soup with Elderflower Sorbet

(Serves 6)

ALEX GRUNERT

ingredients

For the elderflower sorbet:
7 ounces elderflower syrup
10 1/2 ounces sparkling water
5 ounces d'Asti Prosecco
5 ounces sparkling wine
Juice of one lemon
Juice of one orange
For the violet soup:
2 ounces elderflower syrup
2 ounces simple syrup
10 ounces sparkling wine
2 ounces d'Asti Prosecco
1/8 teaspoon violet extract **
2 ounces sparkling water
1/8 ounce gelatin leaves, bloomed in cold water
For the hippen spiral:
3 1/2 ounces confectioners' sugar
3 1/2 ounces butter, melted
3 1/2 ounces all purpose flour
2 1/2 ounces egg whites
For the garnish:
Mint sprigs
Confectioners' sugar
Elderberries, boiled in simple syrup ***

* Available through Haram Christensen at (201) 507 - 8544.

** Available through European Connection at (877) 866 - 5544.

*** Available through Farthly Delights at (800) 367 - 4709.

For the elderflower sorbet: In a medium saucepan, combine all of the ingredients and bring to a boil. Set over an ice bath until chilled. Freeze in an ice cream machine according to the manufacturer's instructions.

For the violet soup: Chill six martini glasses in the freezer. In a bowl, combine the elderflower syrup, simple syrup, sparkling wine, d'Asti Prosecco, and violet extract. In a saucepan, heat the sparkling water. Add the gelatin leaves and stir until melted. Add the gelatin mixture to the syrup mixture and stir to combine. Place in the refrigerator until cold, about 5 hours.

For the hippen spiral: Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. In a bowl, and all of the ingredients and whisk to combine. Cover and set aside for one hour. Spread six 7 x 1/2-inch strips of the batter onto a silpat-lined sheet pan. Place in the oven and bake until golden brown, about eight minutes. While still warm, wrap the strips around the handles of wooden spoons to create six spirals. Once cooled, remove the spirals from the spoons.

To serve: Place two small scoops of the elderflower sorbet in a chilled martini glass. Fill the glass three-quarters full with the violet soup. Place a hippen spiral on the edge of the martini glass. Garnish the sorbet and soup with the elderberries and mini sprigs.

Schlumberger Sparkling Chardonnay/Welschriesling Schlumberger Vienna Austria 1998

Passion Fruit Lady Apples with Anise Sabayon

(Serves 4)

ingredients

For the Caramel Baskets:
8 1/2 ounces granulated sugar
3 ounces water
2 ounces glucose syrup

For the passion fruit syrup:
14 ounces passion fruit juice
14 ounces water
10 1/2 ounces granulated sugar
Pinch of saffron threads
10 lady apples, peeled

For te anise sabayon:
4 egg yolks
1 1/2 ounce granulated sugar
4 1/2 ounces white wine
1/8 teaspoon anise extract

For the garnish:
Mint sprigs

directions

For the caramel baskets: Spray the back of an eight-ounce ladle with non-stick spray. In a saucepan, combine all of the ingredients. Bring to a boil and reduce the heat. Dip a fork into the mixture and, over a parchment-lined surface, drizzle the caramel over the ladle head to form a basket. Repeat with the remaining mixture to form four baskets. Gently remove the baskets by hand and place on a, parchment-lined sheet pan.

For the passion fruit syrup: In a saucepan, combine the passion fruit juice, water, sugar, and saffron. Bring to boil; remove from the heat and strain through a fine mesh sieve. Return to a saucepan and add the apples. Bring to a simmer and cook until the apples are cook until the apples are soft, about ten minutes. Remove from the heat; core the apples from the bottom and slice two of the apples in half.

For the anise sabayon: Bring a medium saucepan filled halfway with water of a boil reduced the heat and maintain at a simmer. In a bowl whisk together the egg, yolks and sugar; place the bowl over the hot water bath, making sure the bottom of the bowl does not touch the water, and continue to beat until the eggs thicken. Gradually whisk in the white wine and continue to beat the eggs over the hot water bath unitl they reach the consistency of heavy cream. Add the anise extract and let cool slightly.

To Serve: Place a caramel basket in the center of the center of the plate and place one apple in the center of the basket. Place another whole apple and a half next to the basket. Spoon a portion of anise sabayon over the apple in the basket and garnish with the mint sprigs.

Red Curry Steak Tartare

(Serves 4)

MICHAEL LEVITON

ingredients

For the spinach chlorophyll:
3 bunches spinach
Water as needed
For the Kaffir lime leaf oil:
1 ounce kaffir lime leaves
4 ounces canola oil
2 1/2 ounces reserved spinach
 chlorophyll

For the red curry vinaigrette:
4 ounces red curry paste
1 stalk lernon grass, chopped
4 ounces seasoned rice vinegar
1/2 tablespoon Asian fish sauce
8 ounces canola oil
Salt and pepper to taste

For the steak tartare:
1 pound Niman Ranch aged New York sirloin, finely chopped
1/4 bunch Thai basil, stemmed and minced
1/4 bunch mint, stemmed and minced
1/2 inch piece ginger, peeled and finely diced
1 shallot, peeled and minced
1/3 cup reserved red curry vinaigrette
Kosher salt and pepper to taste
Available through Niman
Ranch at [phone].

Directions

For the spinach chlorophyll: Place the spinach in a blender and puree until smooth, adding a small amount of water if necessary. Strain through a fine mesh sieve, discarding the solids. Place the liquid in a large, shallow saucepan over a high flame. When the chlorophyll begins to coagulate; add 1 cup of ice cubes and remove from the heat. When the ice melts, strain through a cheesecloth-lined fine mesh sieve, reserving the chlorophyll and liquid separately. Place the chlorophyll on a towel-lined sheet pan. Repeat the process until all of the liquid is used. Cover the chlorophyll with towels and place in the refrigerator overnight.

For the kaffir lime leaf oil: In a blender, combine the kaffir lime leaves and the canola oil and puree. Transfer to a saucepan and bring to a simmer. Remove from the heat; place in a bowl and set aside overnight. Strain through a fine mesh sieve and transfer to a blender. Add the spinach chlorophyll and puree. Transfer to a bowl and set aside for 24 hours. Strain through a fine mesh sieve and reserve.

For the red curry vinaigreette: In a blender, combine the red curry paste, lemon grass, rice vinegar, and fish sauce. Blend to combine. With the blender running, slowly add the canola oil in a thin steady stream until fully incorporated. Strain through a fine mesh sieve and season. Reserve 1/3 cup of the vinaigrette.

For the tartare: In a bowl, combine all of the ingredients. Mix well and season. Place four 3-inch ring molds on a parchment-lined sheet pan and divide the steak tartare evenly in the ring molds.

To serve: Place a steak tartare-filled ring mold in the center of the plate and remove the ring mold. Spoon a portion of red curry vinaigrette around the steak tartare. Drizzle the plate with the kaffir lime leaf oil.

Grand Cuvee, Brul Krug & Co.

Relms, France NV

Sweet Corn Soup with Poblano Peppers

(Serves 4)

MICHAEL LEVITON

Ingredients

For the corn stock:
9 ears corn, kernels removed and reserved separately
Water as needed

For the soup:
1/4 cup unsalted butter
1 teaspoon salt
Reserved corn kernels
Salt and pepper to taste

For the garnish:
Reserved corn stock
1/2 cup corn kernels
1 shallot peeled and minced
1 small green poblano pepper roasted peeled,
1 small red poblano seeded and diged
1 tablespoon minced chives
1 1/2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 1/2 tablespoons rice vinegar

Directions

For the corn stock: Place the corncobs in a large saucepan and cover with cold water. Bring to a boil; reduce the heat and summer for 30 minutes, skimming occasionally. Remove from the heat and strain through a fine mesh sieve, discarding the cobs. Set aside.

For the soup: In a saucepan, melt the butter. Add all of the corn kernals except for 1/2 cup and add the salt. Reserve the 1/2 cup of corn kernals for the garnish. Cover and cook until tender, about 10 minutes. Cover the kernels with the corn stock by one inch, reserving the remaining stock for the garnish. Simmer, covered, until the kernels are very tender about 45 minutes. Remove from the heat and transfer to a blender. Puree until smooth and strain through a fine mesh steve Season and set aside keeping warm.

For the garnish: Bring the remaining corn stock to a boil Add the reserved corn kernels and simmer for one minute. Remove from the head stram through a fine mesh steve discarding the stock in a bowl. Combine the corn kernels shallof chives poblano pepper extra virgin olive oil and rice vinegar. Mix to combine and season.

To serves Ladie a portion of the soup into a bowl and garnish with the corn kerned mixture.

LesAumones Vouvray Le Captaine

Lore France 2000

Concord Grape Sorbet with Champagne Sauce

(Serves 4)

Ingredients

For the Concord grape sorbet:
2 pounds Concord grapes, stemmed
1/2 teaspoon vitamin C powder
5 ounces granulated sugar
Salt and lemon juice to taste

For the champagne sauce:
2 1/2 cups green grapes, stemmed
2 ounces granulated sugar
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1/8 teaspoon salt
1/3 cup champagne
1 cup red grapes, stemmed and halved

directions

For the Concord grape sorbet: In a blender, combine the grapes, vitamin C powder, and the sugar. Blend until smooth and strain through a fine mesh sieve. Season with the salt and lemon juice and freeze in an ice cream machine according to the manufacturer's instructions.

For the champagne sauce: In a blender, puree 1 1/2 cups of the green grapes until smooth. Strain through a fine mesh sieve and transfer to a saucepan. Add the sugar and place over medium heat until warned. Stir in the lemon juice and salt and remove from the heat. Transfer to a bowl and place in the refrigerator overnight. Halve the remaining green grapes and place in a bowl. Add the champagne and red grapes and toss to combine.

To serve: Place a portion of the champagne sauce into a soup bowl Place three scoops of concord grape sorbet in the center of the dish.

Comtesde Champagne, Brut

Tattinger

Reims France 1993