En route to Russia: Since it officially became a democracy last decade, Russia has emerged as an enticing business market, boasting a wealth of natural resources, a highly skilled workforce and a diverse industrial base. (Business Travel).

While more and more Westerners are going to Russia on business, it is not simply a matter of purchasing an airline ticket and hauling along your laptop. "You have to understand that things work very differently here," explains Maurice Worsfold, a Canadian currently working in Russia as chief financial officer at VimpelCom, a Russian telecommunications firm. "In the West, one automatically assumes that services work. In Russia, you have to know people who can get things done, whether it's renting office space, filing taxes or obtaining licenses to operate. Even things we take for granted, like phones and plumbing, require knowing someone who can cut through the bureaucracy."

For these reasons, Worsfold suggests that first-time business travellers link up with someone who understands the market and has operated in Russia for some time. It is also recommended that novice business travellers take time to research and plan their trip carefully.

The first step involves obtaining the right documents. Unlike other democracies, Russia requires that all visitors have, along with their up-to-date passport, valid entry and exit visas. The visa documents are especially important, for without them, one can expect to incur fines, delays or even be denied entry.

Business visas are issued upon presentation of an invitation from a duly registered Russian organization, known as a sponsor. The traveller's name, dates and itinerary of the trip should be clearly stated on the invitation. Because the rules are subject to frequent change, it is best to consult directly with the Visa Department of the Embassy of Russia in Ottawa (613-235-4341).

Many airlines, including Air Canada, have direct flights to Moscow and St. Petersburg, so booking a flight should be fairly straightforward. All international flights to Moscow come via Sheremetyevo II Airport. If continuing to other Russian cities, you would travel through one of the other three airports which can take up to an hour and a half to get to, so be sure to allow enough travel time. St. Petersburg has two terminals, Pulkovo I for domestic fights and Pulkovo II for international.

Whether arriving or departing, expect to see the Russian bureaucracy in action. Lengthy queues, ever-changing customs regulations and questioning immigration officials will likely have you spending more time at the airport than you would care to. In these instances, patience is definitely a virtue.

Once you are inside the country, you need to be mindful of how to travel around. Though the myth that all Westerners are wealthy is gradually dissipating, foreigners can still be easy targets for crime, especially theft and assault. Refrain from flaunting valuables and avoid walking alone at night through city streets or parks. Also, keep your passport and visa with you at all times, not in your hotel room, and retain copies in separate locations in case of loss or theft of originals.

When travelling longer distances, consider renting a car and driver. Train travel is also an efficient, safe and reliable means of transportation, though it is advisable not to travel alone if taking an overnight train.

For shorter excursions, you may want to use a taxi. Use only marked taxis, not private or "hacker" vehicles, and never accept a taxi with another passenger in it. In Moscow and St. Petersburg, the subway (metro) is an inexpensive means of intercity travel. Regardless of the means of conveyance, be alert to your surroundings and guard your belongings at all times.

Accommodation in Russia is catching up to Western standards, with Western-style hotels materializing in larger cities like Moscow, St. Petersburg and Novgorod; however, in comparison to hotels in other major cities, they tend to be expensive. Reasonably priced accommodation can be found in the smaller cities, but many business facilities and services are underdeveloped. Moreover, temporary electricity blackouts and shortages of running water are not uncommon in these locations.

Russian cuisine is quite palatable and most Westerners find it to their liking. For more conventional tastes, restaurants serving North American-style food can be found in the larger cities, as well as those specializing in exotic fare. Tipping in restaurants is now expected, with 10 to 15% of the bill being standard. Though the food is generally considered safe to eat, it is best to avoid raw fruits and vegetables and drink only bottled water.

Medical care in Russia is still below Western standards, with supplies being hard to come by, so bring any medication you may need. Check with your health insurer before you depart to ascertain your coverage in the event of emergency.

The electricity throughout Russia is the two pin thin European standard 220 volt/50hz. Be sure to pack a converter if you are bringing any electrical appliances. As for clothing, make sure it is suitable for very cold weather if you are planning to be in Russia between October and the end of April.

The Russian currency standard is the ruble. Travellers' cheques and credit cards are not as widely accepted at Russian stores as they are m the West. Major hotels or American Express offices in Moscow or St. Petersburg can suggest locations for cashing travellers' cheques or obtaining cash advances on credit cards. ABMs are common in Moscow, but not elsewhere, so look after your cash needs in advance.

If using local medical or banking services, try to limit the information to the minimum required. Confidential financial and medical information has been known to reach organized crime gangs who use it to make extortion threats against foreigners.

Despite years of isolation from Western-style commerce, the Russians are adapting well to our business model. "One key advantage of this marketplace," says Maurice Worsfold, "is the high quality of Russian staff who, on the whole, represent much lower labour costs than in Europe or North America. Young professionals are very well educated and virtually all speak excellent English."

Russians are sensitive to the fact that their business systems are less advanced than in other industrialized nations, so any advice you give on running a business should be done tactfully. Many weaknesses of the system stem from the lack of hard-currency funds to purchase supplies, equipment and parts. As well, information is less in supply but much in demand, so good gift suggestions are reference manuals, books or subscriptions to business periodicals.

Demonstrating an interest in Russian language and culture can go a long way in establishing good business relationships. A rudimentary grasp of Russian is not difficult to acquire. If nothing else, learning the Russian (Cyrillic) alphabet, which can be done in less than an hour, will prove extremely practical for decoding signs and place names.

In summing up his Russian business experience, Maurice Worsfold says, "It is sometimes difficult to do business in Russia, so you need to spend some time in getting to know what to do; however, it is a progressive place with a large Western business community already in place."

As goes a Russian proverb, "Every seed knows its time." Given the potential of this business market, that time may be just around the corner.

For additional information, visit the following Web sites: www.interknowledge.com/russia, www.tradeport.org/ts/countries/russia and www.russia-travel.com.

Anne Papmehl MA, is a Toronto-based writer and consultant.