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Elegance by the numbers: this year's CMAA International Wine Society Dinner: a testament to professionalism, planning, and execution.


Do the math: 150 people, eight courses, 10 wines, following on the heels of an hors d'ouevres reception. That's 1,500 wine glasses, 25 kitchen staff, 30 servers--and 228 red roses. When the organizers of this year's CMAA CMAA Club Managers Association of America
CMAA Construction Management Association of America
CMAA Crane Manufacturers Association of America
CMAA Country Music Association of Australia
CMAA Customs Mutual Assistance Agreement
 International Wine Society Dinner, hosted at the New Orleans Country Club (NOCC NOCC Network Operations & Control Center
NOCC Network Operations Control Center
NOCC National Ovarian Cancer Coalition
NOCC Network Operations Command Center
NOCC National Operations Control Center (FAA) 
) on March 1, 2005, met with the club's staff to pair wines and food, they had genuine concerns that their guests would still be dining as you read this article.

But this was, after all, New Orleans, where all visitors complain about the quantity of the food even as they are awestruck by the sheer quality of it all. Bobby Crifasi, CCM CCM Contemporary Christian Music
CCM Critical Care Medicine
CCM County College of Morris (New Jersey)
CCM Chama Cha Mapinduzi (political party, Tanzania)
CCM CORBA Component Model
, a New Orleans native and general manager of NOCC, remembered that meeting well:

"Mitch Marron mar·ron  
n.
See Spanish chestnut.



[French; see maroon2.]
 (cellarmaster for the event) expressed concern that eight courses was too much food, and it could drag out the evening," Crifasi said. Phil Schirle, CEC (Central Electronic Complex) The set of hardware that defines a mainframe, which includes the CPU(s), memory, channels, controllers and power supplies included in the box. Some CECs, such as IBM's Multiprise 2000 and 3000, include data storage devices as well. , NOCC's executive chef, was convinced that with the right planning, the club's staff could pull it off.

Crifasi, Schirle, and the rest of NOCC's F&B management team--Bret Cunningham, banquet chef; Alicia Murphy, catering manager; and David Duplantier, CCM, food and beverage F&B is a common abbreviation in the United States and Commonwealth countries, including Hong Kong. F&B is typically the widely accepted abbreviation for "Food and Beverage," which is the sector/industry that specializes in the conceptualization, the making of, and delivery of foods.  manager--orchestrated a plan for the pinpoint execution it would take to make the evening flow. First came the menu. "Our chef met with his staff and wanted to make everything indigenous to Louisiana," Crifasi said. "They started listing Louisiana products that were available to them. Then Schirle and Cunningham bounced their ideas off of Murphy and Duplantier to arrive at a final menu. Kitchenmaster for the evening, Dolly Ammann, CCM, is from Washington State. She worked with Marron to develop a wine list that leaned heavily on Pacific Coast selections.

The goal of the NOCC staff was to have their guests headed for coffee, port, and cigars by 10:30 p.m. In order to accomplish that task, a total of 30 servers were assigned to the evening's festivities fes·tiv·i·ty  
n. pl. fes·tiv·i·ties
1. A joyous feast, holiday, or celebration; a festival.

2. The pleasure, joy, and gaiety of a festival or celebration.

3.
. There was one server per table and a manager for every four tables. Runners brought out food and wine glasses. Glasses were cleared as diners finished their courses. It was a refreshing change from other wine dinners, where the table is cluttered with ranks of glasses and pours are refreshed. It also had another practical aspect: With 10 wines served, "If you drank everything there, each person would have had two bottles," Crifasi noted. For the same reason, servers cut the pours just a little bit short.

The evening flowed exactly as planned. Society members and their spouses in formal attire were greeted at the club's entrance by Mardi Gras jesters handing out beads. Once inside, Iron Horse Rose, Iron Horse 2000, Iron Horse Rosato di Sangiovese, and Iron Horse Russian Cuvee--each from the 2003 vintage--were offered for the reception.

Sumptuous amuse gueule were eagerly passed and sampled, as was the cochon du lait beggar's purse with orange barbeque sauce; crab meat ravigote ra·vi·gote also ra·vi·gotte  
n.
A vinegar sauce seasoned with minced onion, capers, and herbs, used with boiled meats or fish.



[French, from ravigoter, to add new vigor
 on artichoke artichoke, name for two different plants of the family Asteraceae (aster family), both having edible parts. The French, or globe, artichoke (Cynara scolymus  leaves; fire-roasted gulf shrimp on sugar cane skewers with a rum glaze; and roasted duckling and sweet potato praline tartlets.

But there was more! A grand hors d'oeuvres buffet included oysters Rockefeller, Bienville, and NOCC (a special concoction, invented just for the occasion, of artichoke, chicken stock, garlic, Tabasco artichoke, and Lea & Perrins Worcestershire sauce); galantine gal·an·tine  
n.
A dish of boned, stuffed meat or fish that is poached and served cold coated with aspic.



[Middle English galauntine, a kind of sauce, from Old French
 of smoked duck and caramelized apples; savory cheesecake macque choux with tasso; and a quartet of sausages, alligator, andouille an·dou·ille  
n.
A spicy smoked sausage made with pork and garlic, used especially in Cajun cooking.



[French, from Old French andoille, from Medieval Latin *inductilia,
, rabbit, shrimp, and green onion. All of the amuse and hors d'oeuvres set the Louisiana theme that the kitchen staff had envisioned.

When the guests were ushered into the dining room the table setting was simple, yet elegant. Each table had an open glass bowl overflowing with a dozen gorgeous red roses. While the club rented some of the wine glasses, Crifasi also realized that the timing of the dinner was right for some needed additions to his stock, and he seized the opportunity to update NOCC's stemware stem·ware  
n.
Glassware mounted on a stem with a broad base.
 and flatware.

The first course--chilled oyster with vodka, creme fraiche, and caviar garnish--was paired with Fidelitas, Chardonnay, Elerding Vineyard, Yakima Valley, 2003. The citrus finish of the wine nicely complimented the tangy oyster. Sweet potato and andouille soup followed, providing an interesting contrast of flavors, sweet (potato) and hot (sausage).

Bronze speckled trout and jumbo lump crabmeat crab·meat  
n.
The edible flesh of a crab.

Noun 1. crabmeat - the edible flesh of any of various crabs
crab

crab cocktail - a cocktail of cold cooked crabmeat and a sauce
 with eggplant-stuffed braided saffron pasta was served next. Wine pairings included Fidelitas, Viognier, 2003 and Hanzell Chardonnay, 2001. Hanzell is a storied winery that has been making wonderful Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs for many years in California. The Hanzell matched well with the trout and the Viognier paired well with the soup, as Viognier complements spicy foods like andouille. St. Amant Muscadine sorbet refreshed the palate and was quite tasty.

Louisiana crawfish crawfish: see crayfish. , stuffed quail with chicory chicory (chĭk`ərē) or succory (sŭk`ərē), Mediterannean herb (Cichorium intybus  coffee glaze, and a black-eyed pea relish continued the New Orleans flavor of the evening. Mara, Dolinsek Ranch, Reserve, Zinfandel, 2002 matched well with the quail and was a delight to drink. This well-made wine exhibited ripe, plump, dark berry fruit, spice, and rounded tannins tannins,
n.pl polyphenolic phytochemicals whose name derives from their use in tanning animal skins. Used as astringents, antioxidants, and styptics; treats burns, relieves diarrhea.
.

The dinner continued with a sinfully rich veal and foie gras combination with Louisiana wild mushroom demi-glace, enhanced by truffled potato Napoleon. It was a tour de force that provided multiple and varied taste sensations. The flavors were further enhanced by the serving of McKenzie Mueller, Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa, 2001 and Fidelitas, Meritage, Columbia Valley, 2001. The McKenzie Mueller was very accessible with loads of ripe, dark cherry fruit, smoke, and cedar on the nose, accented by a long finish.

Wonderful selections of locally crafted artisanal cheeses were served with fruit, complemented by a very good Syrah from Bernard Griffin, Columbia Valley, 2003. It is important to note that the cheeses, which were very good, were correctly served at room temperature, allowing them to reach their peak flavor point.

Dessert was visually beautiful and delectable--chocolate lattice towers filled with chocolate and mocha Mocha (mō`kə), town (1990 est. pop. 2,000), S Yemen, a port on the Red Sea. It was noted for the export of the coffee to which it gave its name but declined as a trading port in the late 19th cent. with the rise of Hodeida and Aden.  mousse, Bailey's sabayon, and highlighted by a whimsical edible cookie Mardi Gras mask. Clair Riley's Reserve Zinfandel Port, 2001 was a perfect accompaniment to the dessert, providing a fitting conclusion to a memorable evening of wines and culinary excellence.

When the NOCC staff ushered guests into the club living room for Cafe Brulot, port, and after dinner drinks, they noted the time as 10:40-10 minutes past their goal, but not shabby. "As we got towards the end, after three entrees, people were taking a little longer," Crifasi chuckled. New Orleans tradition had been served. The guests had eaten too much and loved every minute of it, and the timing of the evening had come off as planned.

Mitch Marron and Dolly Ammann deserve congratulations, having worked passionately the past year in developing the menu and pairing wines. It is no easy task to pair wines with the diverse and exotic flavors to be found in New Orleans. Kudos and great appreciation is also extended to Bobby Crifasi, who so graciously welcomed all guests into his club, did an outstanding job of organizing and staffing the dinner, and provided great assistance to Dolly and Mitch.

Strong thanks and appreciation is given to Executive Chef Phillip Schirle, Banquet Chef Bret Cunningham, and the rest of NOCC's talented culinary staff. Heartfelt admiration goes out to Alicia Murphy, catering manager; David Duplantier, CCM, food and beverage manager; and the outstanding service staff who worked tirelessly to provide exemplary and unobtrusive service.

Thank you too to the wineries and wine makers whose talents and gifts of the vine are greatly appreciated and enjoyed.

Finally, on behalf of the entire Society, I want to express profound thanks to CMAA COO Kathi Driggs and Melissa Low, CMAA's manager of legislative and public affairs, for their continued support, efforts, and dedication to our group.

No matter how you add it up, it was an elegant, wonderful evening.

THE RECEPTION

Passed Hors d'Oeuvres

Cochon du lait beggar's purse With orange barbecue sauce

Crabmeat ravigote on artichoke leaves

Fire roasted gulf shrimp With New Orleans rum glaze

Roasted duckling and Sweet potato praline tartlettes

Presented Hors d'Oeuvres

Oysters Rockefeller

Oysters Bienville

Oysters NOCC

Galantine of smoked duckling and Carmelized apples

Savory cheesecake macque choux

Quartet of Creole sausages--Alligator sausage, andouille, Rabbit sausage, and Shrimp-green onion sausage

Complementary Wine Pairings

Iron Horse 2000

Brut Sparkling Rose

Iron Horse 2003

Russian Cuvee Cuvée (or Cuvee on some English language labels) is a French term used on wine labels to denote wine of a specific blend or batch. The word originates from the French word cuve meaning "vat".  

Iron Horse 2003

Rosato di Sangiovese

DINNER MENU

Chilled oyster with vodka creme fraiche and Choupique caviar.

Sweet potato and andouille soup with a rosemary skewered cala. Fidelitas 2003 Chardonnay, Elerding Vineyard Yakima Valley.

Bronzed speckled trout and jumbo lump crabmeat with eggplant stuffed braided saffron pasta. Terra Blanca 2003 Viognier, Yakima Valley, Hanzell 2001 Chardonnay, Sonoma Valley.

St. Amant Muscadine sorbet.

Louisiana crawfish stuffed Abita Springs quail with chicory coffee glaze, crunchy mirliton mir·li·ton  
n. Southern Louisiana
See chayote.



[Louisiana French, from French, toy reed flute, tube-shaped pastry, perhaps of imitative origin.]
 slaw slaw  
n. Chiefly Southern U.S.
Coleslaw.

Noun 1. slaw - basically shredded cabbage
coleslaw

salad - food mixtures either arranged on a plate or tossed and served with a moist dressing; usually consisting of
, and black-eyed pea relish. Mara 2002 Reserve Zinfandel Dolinsek, Ranch Russion River Valley.

Veal tenderloin and seared foie gras with a truffled potato Napoleon and Louisiana wild mushroom demi-glace. Fidelitas 2001 Meritage, Columbia Valley, McKenzie Mueller, 2000 Cabemet Sauvignon, Napa Valley.

Selection of locally produced artisan cheeses, Evangeline aged goat cheese, fleur-de-lis triple cream, and fleur-de-teche with vegetable ash.

Barnard Griffin 2003 Syrah, Columbia Valley.

Chocolate lattice tower filled with chocolate and mocha mousse and served over Bailey's sabayon nestled next to a Mardi Gras mask. Clair Riley's Private Reserve, 2001 Zinfandel Port, Napa Valley.

WINE SOCIETY BOARD OF MANAGERS

Host

Thomas G. Bertani, CCM

Cellarmaster

Mitchell B. Marron

Kitchenmaster

Dolly Ammann, CCM

Secretary

Michael Robinson, MCM (MultiChip Module or MicroChip Module) A chip package that contains several bare chips mounted close together on a substrate (base) of some kind. , CHE, CHA, CFE CFE Conventional Forces in Europe (treaty)
CFE Cash Flow to Equity (finance/accounting)
CFE Comisión Federal de Electricidad (México)
CFE Certified Fraud Examiner
, FMP FMP FileMaker Pro
FMP Forest Management Plan
FMP Full Metal Panic (anime)
FMP Fixed Maturity Plan
FMP Federación de Mujeres Progresistas (Spanish: Federation of Progressive Women) 
 

Treasurer

James J. Ferschinger

Barrister

Dennis Meermans, CCM

Toastmaster toast·mas·ter  
n.
A man who proposes the toasts and introduces the speakers at a banquet.


toastmaster
Noun

a person who introduces speakers and proposes toasts at public dinners

Noun 1.
 

Edward F. Brennan, Jr., CCM

Board Member

Andrew Curtis, CCM, CMP CMP (cytidine monophosphate): see cytosine.


(1) (CMP Media LLC, Manhasset, NY, www.cmp.com) Part of United Business Media, CMP is a leading integrated media company that offers a wide variety of publications and services in the information
 

Board Member

Art Barajas, CCM

Immediate Past Host and Board Member

Kirk O. Reese, CCM

THOMAS G. BERTANI, CCM

2004 HOST, CMAA INTERNATIONAL WINE SOCIETY
COPYRIGHT 2005 Finan Publishing Company, Inc.
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Title Annotation:Club Managers Association of America
Author:Bertani, Thomas G.
Publication:Club Management
Geographic Code:1U7LA
Date:Apr 1, 2005
Words:1613
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