Egg plants come out of heir shell.

Byline: STACEY ROBERTS

THE aubergine is probably my wife Susan's favourite vegetable. She has the Tshirt, even bought cushions for our house with aubergines on, and Gordon Ramsay gave her a plate with an aubergine painted on it which now hangs on the wall in the bar at Tyddyn Llan. As soon as a hand bag comes on the market I'm sure she will want one.

Aubergine is the French name we adopted as we used to call it egg plant - the Americans and Australians still do - because it looks like a perfectly shaped goose egg. I always think of Mediterranean food with the aubergine, so it was surprising to learn its original home is tropical Asia.

There are hundreds of ways in which to prepare them. Their flavour is subtle and, to a certain extent, fugitive, so it's important to combine aubergine with strong flavours. They are an ideal match for pungent herbs, spices, Welsh lamb, tomatoes, basil, parmesan and garlic.

They lend themselves to many cooking methods - grilling, roasting, stewing and frying - but be careful when frying as they can act as a sponge for oil and can end up tasting heavy.

I like to cook them on a griddled plate. Keep turning them until they go very soft, this gives them a smoky taste. Peel them once they are cold and use them in salads or in a puree.

Deep frying is also a good way of cooking them as long as the oil is at the maximum temperature of 180[degrees]C and you don't overcrowd the basket. Cook in large cubes or even just cut in half - this leaves the flesh creamy with its natural juices.

Many recipes tell you to salt and drain them, but I would say don't as having cooked them many time with or without salt, I haven't noticed any difference.

Today's recipe is not only the wife's favourite vegetable but is her favourite way of eating them. It's a great dish as a starter or an evening light supper dish, and the aubergine and pesto work really well with grilled lamb cutlets or a roast leg of lamb.

. Bryan Webb is owner/chef of Tyddyn Llan, Llandrillo, near Corwen ingredients 2 large aubergines 2 large balls of buffalo mozzarella 4 tablespoon of pesto 100g rocket parmesan (optional) salt and pepper extra virgin olive oil method. Cut the aubergine in half, slash the open surface with a sharp knife and place on a tray.

Season with salt and pepper, drizzle a little olive oil over and bake at 200 [degrees] C for 20 minutes until soft. When ready to serve spread the surface with the pesto (see below) and either place back in the oven or under a hot grill until golden. Place onto 4 plates with half a ball of mozzarella, some dressed rocket with olive oil and some parmesan shaving, if using. As an alternative slice the mozzarella and place on the pesto coated aubergine, then grill or bake

PESTO ingredients 100g basil leaves 10 tablespoons of olive oil 25g pine nuts 2 cloves of garlic 50g parmesan method. Toast the pine nuts until golden brown, and finely chop the garlic.

In a food processor chop the basil with the garlic and pine nuts.

Add olive oil then the parmesan, but do not mix too much. Store in an air tight jar - it will keep for about two weeks in the fridge.

It is wonderful spooned over freshly boiled pasta with a sprinkling of parmesan

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Picture: STACEY ROBERTS