EXPRESS TO GO.

TARZANA ARMENIAN GROCERY & DELI, 18598 Ventura Blvd., Tarzana, [phone]; 22776 Ventura Blvd., Woodland Hills, [phone].

When you're in the mood for Middle Eastern-style food and want cold fare, head for the Tarzana Armenian Grocery & Deli in Tarzana or Woodland Hills and order pita bread sandwiches. They come rolled up and filled with your choice of turkey, ham, salami, mortadella, pepper beef, pastrami, corned beef, albacore tuna, roast beef or smoked ham or turkey. Vegetarian choices include the popular veggie delight falafel, stuffed grape leaves or hummus. All are filled with mayo, mustard or tahini, string cheese, tomatoes, avocados and peppers - and the vegetarian offerings have parsley and radishes in addition. You can order any of the various sandwiches either small (ranging from $3.95 to $4.95) or large ($4.95 to $5.95). The large size is definitely the best buy. If it's too much for you to eat at a single sitting, refrigerate part of it for a snack or light meal later. Or order a large and share it.

Also available are half- or full-size plates (ranging from $3.50 to $8.95) with hummus, tabouli, veggies or greek salad in addition to Armenian meat pizzas ($3.99), Armenian meat balls ($5.50), spinach buregs ($3 each) and stuffed grape leaves ($1 each; $9 a dozen). By the pound you can also order chunky eggplant, eggplant salad, babaganoush, hummus, tabouli, potato salad, lentil pilaf and more. The eggplant salad ($6.50 per pound), a combination of eggplant pieces, diced tomatoes, chopped red and green bell peppers, chopped parsley and onion in an oil dressing, is loaded with garlic. The red spicy eggplant ($6.50 per pound) is hot, hot, hot - and not for the timid. It's enough to make your hair stand on end. You'll need to keep some plain pita or other bread and water handy to put out the fire.

For Memorial Day picnic, patio fare or party fare, or when warm weather is at hand, this is a delicious choice. It's also great lunch or dinner fare.