EXPERIENCE THE REAL BALSAMIC.

Byline: Natalie Haughton Food Editor

Say vinegar and lips pucker, but say balsamic and a rich, velvety, sweet- and-sour harmonious flavor comes to mind.

Balsamic vinegars are not all created equal. In fact, what many consumers know and refer to as balsamic vinegar in this country bears no resemblance to the real, authentic article.

``In my experience, when people first experience true balsamic vinegar (aceto balsamico tradizionale), they are astonished,'' says Mannie Berk, president of the Rare Wine Co. in Sonoma (one of this country's largest importers of real balsamico). ``It doesn't taste like vinegar - it is so sweet and rich that the vinegar component is almost lost.''

According to Italian law, tradizionale (traditional) or extra-vecchio tradizionale (extra-old traditional) aceto balsamico must be produced in the northern provinces of Modena or Reggio Emilia in the region of Emilia-Romagna. It's created from the cooked-down juices of white Trebbiano or other grape varieties and aged 12 to 25 years or longer (becoming thicker and more intense with age) in different-size wooden barrels following a centuries-old tradition.

True balsamics bear either the Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena or Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Reggio Emilia label and range in price for $55 to $400 or more for a small bottle.

With American cooks' increased interest in and demand for balsamic vinegar since the early '80s, mass-produced imitations or impostors have become common on supermarket and specialty store shelves. Prices and quality vary greatly.

``Commercial balsamic vinegar may or may not be aged or may or may not contain artificial caramel color or flavor,'' note the editors of Cook's Illustrated magazine in ``The Best Recipe Italian Classics.'' Some are nothing more than caramel-colored red wine vinegar. And some are produced in the U.S., not Italy.

Although it's recommended that consumers check labels - and avoid any with artificial ingredients - often the contents won't be disclosed on the label because Italian law dictates that Balsamic Vinegar of Modena is itself considered an ingredient and product, so no further description is necessary, point out Cook's Illustrated editors. The U.S. Food and Drug Administration requires only that the label identify whether or not the product contains sulfites.

Italians use traditional aged balsamic sparingly as a condiment or seasoning to finish a dish. A few drops might be sprinkled over grilled or roasted meats, strawberries or vanilla gelato or drizzled over chunks of aged Parmigiano-Reggiano.

``Italians don't cook with it,'' says Meesha Halm, author of ``The Balsamic Vinegar Cookbook.'' But Halm does cook with less-expensive, good-quality commercial balsamics, noting, ``I am treating balsamic as a cooking liquid (like vinegar) that has both sweetness and sourness. It offers an earthy depth, a sweetness, piquancy and added zing to dishes that you wouldn't get from regular vinegar or regular brown sauce.''

``Some chefs recommend creating a substitute for traditional balsamic vinegar by reducing Aceto Balsamico di Modena over high heat until quite thick and sometimes adding brown sugar,'' writes Pamela Sheldon Johns, author of ``Balsamico! A Balsamic Vinegar Cookbook.'' ``However, it must be good quality and contain little or no wine vinegar.''

Tommaso Barletta, chef/owner of Tuscany Restaurant in Westlake Village and Rustico in Oak Park, uses vin cotto (cooked wine) as an alternative to inexpensive balsamic vinegar.

``It's reminiscent of good aged balsamic.''

To make it, in a heavy saucepan over low heat, cook down a bottle of syrah, zinfandel or amaroni wine with some roasted fresh mission figs (for sweetness) and a whole clove until mixture is reduced by half and reaches a syrupy consistency (this will take an hour or so).

After cooling and straining (save and reuse the figs), Barletta drizzles it over a salad of baby greens, roasted beet wedges, goat cheese and candied pecans or on wedges of grilled radicchio. He also brushes it on grilled vegetables or uses it to make a glaze (heat with a few shallots and reduce it) for beef or game.

Natalie Haughton, [phone]

natalie.haughton(at)dailynews.com

VANILLA BEAN ICE CREAM WITH CHERRY-BALSAMICO TOPPING

Other fruits can be substituted for the cherries - grapes are especially good.

ICE CREAM:

2 cups whole milk

2 cups heavy whipping cream 

1 vanilla bean, halved lengthwise 

6 egg yolks

3/4 cup granulated sugar

CHERRY-BALSAMICO TOPPING:

1/2 cup balsamic vinegar

1/2 cup apple juice

1/2 cup water

1/2 cup granulated sugar

1/2 teaspoon grated lemon peel

1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1 pound (about 3 cups) dark sweet cherries, pitted and halved OR 8 ounces dried cherries

For Ice Cream, in top of a double boiler, combine milk and cream. Scrape vanilla bean into liquid, add pod and heat to scalding over gently boiling water. Remove from heat and set aside. Remove vanilla pod.

In a blender, combine egg yolks and sugar. With machine running, slowly add heated milk mixture. Return mixture to double boiler and cook over simmering water, stirring constantly, until mixture coats back of a wooden spoon. Let cool, then refrigerate at least 2 hours. Then freeze in an ice cream maker according to manufacturer's instructions.

To make Cherry-Balsamico Topping: In a medium saucepan, combine balsamic vinegar, apple juice, water, sugar, lemon peel and cinnamon. Bring to a boil, stirring to dissolve sugar. Add cherries and decrease heat to a simmer. Cook 8 to 10 minutes, or until cherries are soft. Let cool to room temperature. Serve over scoops of ice cream. Makes 6 servings.

From ``Balsamico! A Balsamic Vinegar Cookbook,'' by Pamela Sheldon Jones.

PARMESAN-CRUSTED ASPARAGUS WITH BALSAMIC VINEGAR

Balsamic vinegar is often sprinkled over thin wedges of Parmigiano-Reggiano, another of Emilia-Romagna's prized delicacies, or served as a dip for cooked asparagus. This warm appetizer combines both ideas - baked spears of asparagus get an ivory topping of shaved cheese. Indulge yourself with the finest balsamico you can find.

40 thin asparagus spears (approximately 1 pound), tough stems snapped off and discarded

1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil

1 ounce Parmesan cheese curls (shaved off a large chunk of cheese with a vegetable peeler)

Freshly ground black pepper to taste

Balsamic vinegar for serving

Place asparagus in a single layer on a nonstick baking sheet. Drizzle with olive oil and toss well, coating asparagus completely. Spread Parmesan curls over top half of asparagus spears.

Bake in the top third of a preheated 450-degree oven 12 to 15 minutes, until cheese is melted and asparagus is barely tender. Season with pepper to taste.

Using a metal spatula, transfer asparagus to warm plates. Serve immediately with a cruet of balsamic vinegar, allowing guests to sprinkle asparagus with vinegar to taste. Makes 4 servings.

From ``The Balsamic Vinegar Cookbook,'' by Meesha Halm.

STRAWBERRIES WITH BALSAMIC VINEGAR

If you don't have light brown sugar on hand, sprinkle the berries with an equal amount of granulated white sugar. Serve berries and syrup as is or with a scoop of vanilla ice cream or a dollop of lightly sweetened mascarpone cheese.

1/3 cup balsamic vinegar

2 teaspoons granulated sugar

1/2 teaspoon lemon juice

3 pints strawberries, hulled and cut lengthwise into 1/4-inch thick slices (small strawberries can be halved OR quartered)

1/4 cup packed light brown sugar

Ground black pepper

Bring vinegar, granulated sugar and lemon juice to a simmer in a small heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium heat. Simmer until syrup is reduced by half (to about 3 tablespoons), about 3 minutes. Transfer vinegar syrup to a small bowl and cool completely.

With a spoon, lightly toss berries and brown sugar in a large bowl. Let stand until sugar dissolves and berries exude some juice, 10 to 15 minutes. Pour vinegar syrup over berries, add pepper to taste and toss to combine. Divide berries among individual bowls or goblets and serve immediately. Makes 6 servings.

From ``The Best Recipe Italian Classics,'' by the Editors of Cook's Illustrated.

TOMATO, MOZZARELLA AND BASIL SALAD

SUN-DRIED TOMATO VINAIGRETTE:

1/3 cup firmly packed sun-dried tomatoes in oil, drained and 3 tablespoons oil reserved

3 tablespoons balsamic vinegar

1 garlic clove, crushed

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes

2/3 cup extra virgin olive oil

SALAD:

2 bunches arugula (4 ounces each), tough stems discarded, well-rinsed and drained

4 large ripe beefsteak tomatoes (8 ounces each), ends discarded and cut crosswise into 18 slices

12 ounces fresh mozzarella, cut into 12 slices

12 large fresh basil leaves, rolled and cut into thin strips (about 1/2 cup)

To make Sun-Dried Tomato Vinaigrette, in a blender, process all vinaigrette ingredients except oils until combined. With machine running, gradually pour in olive oil and reserved sun-dried tomato oil until vinaigrette is smooth.

For Salad, on top half of a chilled dinner plate, arrange 1/6 of arugula in a bouquet. Below arugula, overlap 3 slices of tomato and 2 slices of mozzarella in a fan. Spoon about 3 tablespoons Sun-Dried Tomato Vinaigrette over salad. Sprinkle with basil. Repeat with remaining ingredients on five more chilled plates. Or, for a beautiful antipasto plate, arrange all ingredients attractively on a serving platter. Serve immediately. Makes 6 servings (1 1/3 cups vinaigrette).

From ``The Balsamic Vinegar Cookbook,'' by Meesha Halm.

SWEET-ONION MARMALADE

Not too sweet, this condiment complements grilled meats, chicken and salmon, and is terrific as a topping for pizza and bagels.

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

3 red onions (approximately 1 1/2 pounds), sliced into 1/4-inch-thick half moons

1/2 cup dry red vermouth OR dry red wine

1/4 cup packed light brown sugar

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1/4 cup balsamic vinegar

1 tablespoon chopped fresh rosemary OR 1 1/2 teaspoon dried rosemary

1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme OR 1 1/2 teaspoons dried thyme

In a medium, heavy-bottomed, nonreactive saucepan, heat butter and oil over medium heat. Add onions and cover. Cook, stirring occasionally, about 5 minutes, until softened. Add vermouth, brown sugar, salt and pepper and bring to a boil. (If using dried herbs, add now.) Reduce heat to medium-low and cover. Simmer about 40 minutes, until onions are very tender.

Add vinegar, rosemary and thyme. Increase heat to high and cook, uncovered, stirring often, 3 to 5 minutes, until liquid is reduced to a glaze. Let cool to room temperature before serving. (The marmalade can be prepared up to 1 week ahead, covered and refrigerated. Bring to room temperature before serving.) Makes 2 cups.

From ``The Balsamic Vinegar Cookbook,'' by Meesha Halm.

The best balsamics on a budget

In a blind tasting of balsamic vinegars priced at $15 or less, a panel from Cook's Illustrated magazine rated the following as the best inexpensive balsamic vinegars, giving them a ``highly recommended'' designation: 365 Every Day Value Balsamic Vinegar of Modena; Masserie Di Sant'Eramo Balsamic Vinegar of Modena; and Fiorucci Riserva Balsamic Vinegar of Modena. They contained no artificial colors or flavors and were made in Modena.

A ``recommended'' designation went to Fini and Colavita, both containing caramel color and made in Modena, and Cavalli Balsamic Seasoning made in Reggio Emilia.

If you can't find what you're looking for locally, a range of balsamic vinegars is available from mail-order sources, including the Rare Wine Co., Sonoma, [phone] (www.rarewineco.com); Corti Brothers, Sacramento, [phone]; Zingerman's, Ann Arbor, Mich., [phone]; Dean & DeLuca, New York, [phone]; and Balducci's, New York, [phone].

- N.H.

CAPTION(S):

4 photos, box

Photo:

(1 -- cover -- color) The secret of balsamic vinegar

Uncork the mystery of Italy's lovely liquid

(2 -- color) VANILLA BEAN ICE CREAM WITH CHERRY-BALSAMICO TOPPING

From ``Balsamico! A Balsamic Vinegar Cookbook,'' Ten Speed Press

(3 -- color) PARMESAN-CRUSTED ASPARAGUS WITH BALSAMIC VINEGAR

(4 -- color) TOMATO, MOZZARELLA AND BASIL SALAD

From ``The Balsamic Vinegar Cookbook,'' Collins Publishers

Box:

The best balsamics on a budget (see text)