EXOTIC THAI REALLY SATISFIES.

Byline: Larry Lipson Daily News Restaurant Critic

Working their way east, the owners of Exotic Thai Cafe, a mini-chain of three in Newbury Park, Thousand Oaks and Agoura Hills, have brought their culinary act to Woodland Hills.

No big surprises on the menu of this small strip mall space on the southeast corner of the busy Ventura Boulevard and Fallbrook Avenue intersection.

But from the more than five dozen items presented here, everything sampled to date has been executed with obvious care and skill.

Whole catfish, for example, an off-menu platter called ``Golden Fish'' ($14.95) that appears regularly on the specials blackboard, brings forth a wonderful course for two to share.

Best charbroiled, it arrives slightly crisped on its exterior, colorfully covered with a spicy Thai ``salsa,'' a south-of-the-borderlike mixture of diced tomatoes with jalapeno and cilantro.

The thick-fleshed denizen provides forkful after forkful of moist, flavorful fish.

Note of warning: Just make sure you separate the flesh from the bones - a fairly easy task - of this ugly, delectable creature that sits in magnificent repose before you.

It's the most expensive item you'll find at the newest Exotic Thai Cafe, incidentally unrelated to a fine independent Thai restaurant of similar name in Burbank.

Portioning is extremely generous here.

Satay skewers of tender beef, for instance, materialize as wider and longer pieces than expected. There are eight of them for $6.95. Again, plenty for sharing.

Even a small soup ($3.25 to $4.25) was large enough for two to share one day. Called ``hot and sour,'' the tom yum goong with mushrooms and shrimp really doesn't resemble the Chinese soup of this name and perhaps would be better termed ``piquant and peppery.''

But whatever the name, it's a steaming, flavorful liquid with no apparent ingredient stinginess.

Yes, thankfully this is not one of those bowls where you have to play the game titled ``Find the Mushroom'' or ``Find the Shrimp.''

Among the many entree possibilities is a dish vaguely called ``spicy meat'' ($6.95).

Like many of these main-course listings, diners get to choose their ``meat'' from a list of four possibilities - pork, chicken, beef or tofu.

Selecting beef one day proved to be wise. Mixed with zucchini, bamboo shoot, bell pepper and mint leaf were small squares of pliable, moist beef, seasoned to the requested degree of spicy heat.

The well-heaped oval platter looked much like one of the house specialties, spicy duck ($8.95).

This gratifying dish also has pieces of meat, this time tender strips of boneless roasted duck strewn among a variety of crunchy vegetables.

Dramatic as well as good-tasting is the star of the house specialties segment, the sizzling platter ($7.95).

Having already tasted the tender beef satay one day, we ordered the chicken version. It was wonderful.

Moist, flavorful chicken sizzles in the hot, bubbling peanut sauce when served. It's about as good a chicken dish as you'll find anywhere.

And if you order the equally good house pad thai noodle dish ($6.95) with it, you have a substantial main course for two for under $15.

At some point, one should always try to sample a Thai kitchen's curry if a serious evaluation is taking place.

One of the impressive curries at Exotic Thai is its greenish-toned kiew wan ($7.95), a pleasant mixture utilizing green beans and a green squash to achieve its prescribed hue.

Tried effectively with pork, it's a worthy alternative to the popular Thai red and yellow curries.

Endings also deserve attention here. The capable kitchen does a fine job making fried banana puffs ($3), and its house-produced coconut ice cream, flecked with yellow corn niblets and tiny green-dyed pieces of sweetened, icy dough, is a refreshing finish.

Certainly an appropriate touch of exotic Thai dessert.

THE FACTS

The restaurant: Exotic Thai Cafe.

Where: 22776 Ventura Blvd., Woodland Hills. (Also in Agoura Hills, Newbury Park and Thousand Oaks.)

When: Open for lunch from 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. daily with lunch specials on weekdays, for dinner and snacks from 2:30 to 10 p.m. daily.

Recommended items: Satay (beef or chicken), tom yum goong soup (shrimp and mushroom), spicy beef, kiew wan green curry (with pork, beef, chicken or tofu), sizzling chicken (or beef) with peanut sauce, pad thai noodles with shrimp and chicken, Thai coconut ice cream, fried banana puffs.

How much: Starters from $3 to $8.50, entrees from $7 to $15, rice and noodles from $1 to $8, desserts $2 and $3 each. All major credit cards.

Wine list: No alcohol; license pending.

Reservations: Helpful. Call [phone].

Our rating: Three and one half stars for food; Three stars for service.

CAPTION(S):

Photo

Photo: Exotic Thai Cafe co-owner Sue Subanakyos doesn't skimp on portions at the new Woodland Hills location.

David Sprague/Daily News