EXOTIC, DELICIOUS LAND OF THAI.

Byline: Larry Lipson Restaurant Critic

THAI TERRITORY is a little cafe space in Studio City, once again with new owners, this time under the title Land of Thai.

Previously, the 30-seat spot had been called J. Joo Thai Cafe and before that, Sate.

Very clean, sporting new furnishings and neatly decorated in shades of brown, Land of Thai even has aromatherapy candles lit for its evening customers.

Its strong points appear to be its traditional curries (red, yellow, green, masaman, pineapple, tofu and roast duck), salads and soups. Its tiny kitchen makes respectable appetizers and some healthily portioned noodle dishes.

Seafood items may be more of a gamble.

Of the numerous starters offered, the fish cakes (five for $5.25) are flavorful, a bit spongy in texture - a positive - and arrive with the same saucer side (a spicy-sweet cucumber and crushed peanut dipping sauce) as the house chicken ``angel'' wings ($5.95).

The pudgy wings, though a tad on the dry side, come forth stuffed with a reasonably satisfying, seasoned chicken mixture.

The kitchen turns out a sweetish, moist pad thai ($7.75) that can be had with ground pork. But the best noodle dish here is probably the glass noodle salad (sometimes called ``yum wood sen,'' $5.95) also paired with ground pork, plus crunchy shrimp, onions, lime juice and chiles and served on lettuce leaves.

The heap of cold thin noodles studded with the shrimp, pork and onions is a mini-meal by itself, certainly big enough to share, and a cooling refresher on a hot summer day.

Of the several soup options, the clear tom yum kai ($6.95) offers a spicy kick, a tart lime-juice boost and plenty of individual tastes from its melange of tomatoes, mushrooms, chicken pieces and green onions. Its only drawback comes from inconspicuous, cutup pieces of lemongrass - necessary for the soup's overall flavor, but which get into the mouth, acting like small, inedible tubes of bamboolike wood.

I wasn't impressed with the whole ginger trout ($9) here that turned out not to be whole, but cut in chunks. Though the fresh ginger saucing elicits no complaints, the deep-fried fish served up one day lacked moisture. Possibly the catfish alternatives here would have been better choices.

The garlic and pepper-flavored squid ($7.95) is also difficult to recommend. In its best form, squid is crunchy and chewable with an almost milky taste. Here it has a bit too much of a rubbery texture and seemed to need additional saucing.

But I could return time and again to sample Land of Thai's duck curry ($6.95), a delicious, spicy, orange-toned, soupy creation with plenty of duck meat pieces sharing bowl space with cubes of pineapple, small tomato wedges, slices of green bell pepper and sprigs of basil.

The ending can be just as worthwhile. With every $30 order, Land of Thai has a limited-time offer of free fried banana wonton crepes and coconut ice cream.

All's well that ends well.

Larry Lipson, [phone]

larry.lipson(at)dailynews.com

LAND OF THAI

Food: three stars - Service: three stars

Where: 11044 Ventura Blvd., Studio City.

Hours: Open for lunch, dinner and snacks from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily.

Recommended items: Fish cakes, glass noodle salad, spicy beef salad, roast duck curry, pork pad thai, fried banana wontons.

How much: Starters from $3.25 to $12, main dishes from $5.25 to $9, dessert $4. No alcohol. AE, MC, V.

Reservations: Helpful. Call [phone].

CAPTION(S):

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Photo:

Owner Noi Prayounprom, left, and manager Reala Phatanchai present completed dishes as cook Malee Johnson prepares a spicy beef salad in the kitchen of Land of Thai in Studio City.

Gene Blevins/Special to the Daily News