ETHNIC GROUPS HELP TO SPICE UP HOLIDAYS MARKETS, EATERIES FILL NICHE.

Byline: CONNIE LLANOS Staff Writer

SANTA CLARITA -- Bright red curried squares of tofu-like paneer, spiced rice with cauliflower and peas and spicy garbanzo beans with rose syrup water sit atop brightly colored silk tablecloths, staples of an Indian holiday celebration meal.

The ingredients needed for this banquet are not the kind you find at the supermarket. But at India Spiceland, an Indian market on Bouquet Canyon Road, Kiran Kamboj helps East Indian natives, and other curious shoppers, find everything they need to celebrate the holidays with Indian flair.

In the increasingly diverse Santa Clarita Valley, a niche market for local markets and restaurants has developed, catering to the needs of various ethnicities. With the holidays here, these specialty stores are working to fill their clients' last-minute orders in hopes of giving them a taste of home, which many times can be an eclectic mix of old and new traditions.

At Valencia Market, Korean Sonia Lee is busy preparing steamed short ribs, rice cake soup and fried pollock for her customers.

Lee, the mother of three, 19, 9, and 5, said Koreans residing in America fall into two categories.

``There are very Americanized Koreans who will have turkey or roast beef and other American dishes for the holidays, but for other Korean families we make traditional Korean celebration feasts with many kinds of Korean foods,'' Lee said.

As Lee toured the store, it seemed every inch contained an edible treasure designated a ``celebration'' dish appropriate for a holiday feast.

Lee explained that for many Koreans, Christmas is a time to be grateful. Lee struggles with her young, more Americanized children who think Christmas is about who gets the most presents.

``I am a Christian, and I teach them that Christmas is important because it is the day Jesus was born.''

The first of the year, though, is one of Lee's busiest days. The steamed short ribs -- tender meat marinated in soy sauce, sesame oil, sugar and spices -- sell out every year at $10 a pound.

Homayoun Daryani, owner of Persian restaurant Naima on Bouquet Canyon Road and Middle Eastern deli Mom and Pop's Deli said Persians and other Middle Eastern people, notorious for their love of parties, like to follow American traditions upon arriving in the states.

``Many Persians like to do the turkey thing because they are in America,'' Daryani said.

But for the crowd in search of traditional Middle Eastern fare, a favorite is anzipolo rice -- a rice and vegetable dish accompanied by spiced whitefish and lamb kebob.

Inside Jazmine's bakery, the kitchen buzzed with action as busy bakers worked the corn flour masa, rushing to fill the hundreds of orders for tamales -- the Newhall bakery's holiday specialty.

``Tamales, everyone wants tamales for Christmas, every kind we have,'' Martha Bernabe, bakery co-owner, said.

Bernabe, who left the Mexican state of Guerrero 21 years ago, said with older teenage daughters it can be difficult to maintain Mexican traditions during the holidays.

``For Mexicans, the holidays are all about family, and sometimes my daughters want space,'' Bernabe said.

Still, many times it is sitting around a table full of familiar smells that brings Bernabe's family together.

Bernabe added that a growing number of her holiday clientele is not made up of Mexicans.

``I don't know if it's the service, or the quality of food, but many American customers will come in and try new foods and come back for more,'' she said.

Jazmin's, which is already busy preparing Three Kings Day rolls, has even made samples of the sweet bread usually served on Jan. 6, so customers unfamiliar with the treat can try them before the Latino holiday is observed.

As Kamboj stacks her glass candy case full with the traditional Indian dairy desserts, she laughs when asked what she will be having for Christmas dinner: ``Oh, me, I am too busy. I will have turkey from Costco.''

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2 photos

Photo:

(1 -- color) India Spiceland owner Kiran Kamboj works in her Saugus store on Saturday afternoon.

(2) People shop at India Spiceland in Saugus on Saturday afternoon for specialties for the holidays.

Hans Gutknecht/Staff Photographer