ENJOY TRADITION WITH VALLEY INN.

Byline: Larry Lipson Daily News Restaurant Critic

Serving diners for more than 50 years in the same location is, for any restaurant in the Los Angeles area, rather distinctive.

The Valley Inn in Sherman Oaks celebrated the big 5-0 last year. Yet not too long afterward it was sold.

But this landmark building on a wide street off of bustling Ventura Boulevard just west of the San Diego Freeway (405), remains pretty much the same old Valley Inn under its new owners.

The restaurant seems to have resisted change over the years in both looks and culinary direction.

I remember years back when it was called Rickey's Valley Inn and offered a pronounced New Orleans accent, though more in decor than in fare.

Yet, along the way, most of the owners held clambake nights and occasionally made a big thing of its Gay '90s design.

A onetime bar hangout of the local literati, the Valley Inn always had its share of celebrity patrons.

The list includes Lakers' sports announcer Chick Hearn, who lives nearby and was in to dine earlier this week, the late comedian George Gobel, broadcast personality Gary Owens and Hal Kanter, one of a number of comedy writer-customers.

Writers Sy Jacobs, Freddy Fox and Will Fowler often stop by.

Annette Funicello used to be a regular. Nancy Sinatra has dined here. So have baseball major leaguers Ron Perranoski and Frank Robinson, grid greats Bob Waterfield and Don Paul, and radio execs Ken Miller and John Severino.

Although the regular clientele appears to be mainly gray-haired, the restaurant is, according to its owners, being discovered daily by a younger crowd.

Its chef, Peter Trump, has been cooking here for many years and knows most of the individual likes and dislikes of frequent patrons.

Recent visits have shown strength in uncomplicated meat and fish entrees, a skillful hand at vegetable accompaniments and sides, and reasonable portioning on most plates. There is a weakness in soups, which, though delivered steaming hot, appear in both looks and taste to be overly institutional.

But give it credit: The Valley Inn is unquestionably a survivor.

Fighting to retain much of the old while incorporating the new, this is a restaurant that deserves commendation because it never gives up.

THE FACTS

Name: Valley Inn.

Address: 4557 Sherman Oaks Ave., Sherman Oaks.

Phone: [phone].

How long in business: Since 1947, under various ownerships.

It was sold in April of this year to Sophia and Boris Brodetsky, who retained the bulk of the staff.

Menu/cuisine changes: Many dishes have become signature items over the years such as the pot roast with potato pancakes, braised short ribs, country pan-fried chicken and the off-menu lobster thermidor.

Decor/physical changes: Still has the Victorian look and features lots of bright red tones around the interior. Seating is comfortable and well-spaced, much of it in black-upholstered, deep and comfortable booths. Crisp, white linen has replaced the former pink tablecloths. The facility has obviously been painted and renewed when necessary during its lengthy existence.

Personnel changes: The staff consists of several veterans, some being here more than 20 years, including waitresses Pat Saxon (35 years) and Dotty Smith (25 years). Bartender Bob Frenn, who invented the Royal L.A. cocktail made with Seagram's Crown Royal, has been pouring drinks here for 19 years and is the best source for historic trivia about the Valley Inn.

Recommendable dishes: In addition to the favored steaks, prime rib, barbecued ribs and aforementioned signature dishes, popular menu items are the roasted duckling with cherry or raspberry sauce, sauteed sand dabs, garlic cheese toast, Monte Cristo sandwich at lunchtime and the traditional Cobb salad.

Special dishes, including the sesame-crusted Chilean sea bass and whitefish with Dijon mustard sauce, often supplement the regular menu and are receiving growing attention.

Service quality: Veteran waitresses who have ``seen it all'' and know their business are familiar with the food and generally keep things humming, though sometimes - particularly early in the week - the dining room appears a mite understaffed.

Pricing: Starters range from $5 to $11, entrees (with soup or salad) from $12 to $24, desserts $4.50 each.

Wine list/service: The new owners promise an upgrading and updating of the current list - plus reduced pricing. In the past, lists have lacked vintage dating, and inventory could have often used more depth and breadth, but to the restaurant's credit, there are 15 bottles priced under $20.

Policies worth mentioning: Saturday brunch is served sit-down style from noon to 4 p.m. (two courses from $7 to $10), and special menus are available on almost all holidays.

Miscellaneous comments: The garlic cheese toast is memorable and the sauteed, lightly battered, sand dabs a welcome reminder from yesteryear. Sometimes you feel like you're in a time warp here, but there's a degree of charm and comfort that goes along with such feelings.

Our latest ratings: food: Three stars, wine: Two and one half stars, service: Two and one half stars.

CAPTION(S):

Photo

Photo: Valley Inn co-owner Sophia Brodetsky and chef Peter Trump keep diners happy at the Sherman Oaks landmark.

Gus Ruelas/Daily News