EL PATRON TAKES CHARGE WITH SKILLFULLY DONE MEXICAN FARE.Byline: Larry Lipson Restaurant Critic YOU WON'T find much in the way of unfamiliar food at the new El Patron Mexican Grill in Tarzana. In fact, among the standard popular Mexican-style dishes on the menu there are such non-Mexican faves here as fried calamari Fried calamari is a popular seafood dish served in many Mediterranean countries' restaurants such as Greece, Italy, Spain and Turkey. It is a relatively simple dish, which consists of batter coated, deep fried squid, often fried for under two minutes to prevent it from becoming too , baby back ribs, a bacon cheeseburger with french fries, caesar salad caesar salad n. A tossed salad of greens, anchovies, croutons, and grated cheese with a dressing of olive oil, lemon juice, and a raw or coddled egg. with grilled salmon and buffalo chicken wings Chicken Wings can refer to:
But to El Patron's credit, whatever it does, authentic Mexican, gringo-Mex or non-Mex, it does them pretty well. That includes a tableside-prepared fresh guacamole ($6.25) spiced to your preference, a chicken and cheese quesadilla que·sa·dil·la n. A flour tortilla folded in half around a savory filling, as of cheese or beans, then fried or toasted. [American Spanish, from Spanish, diminutive of quesada, ($6.99), piquant shrimp ceviche ce·vi·che or se·vi·che n. Raw fish marinated in lime or lemon juice with olive oil and spices and served as an appetizer. [American Spanish, from Spanish cebiche, fish stew, from ($6.95) and a flavorful, savory tortilla soup with chicken and avocado ($4.25). If it becomes difficult to make a decision on an appetizer, El Patron solves the problem with its plato de fiesta ($7.99) a fairly generously portioned platter containing cheese nachos, a cut-up cheese quesadilla, buffalo wings, shredded beef taquitos, guacamole and sour cream. In the attractively refurbished former Market Broiler broiler a young (about 8 weeks old) male or female chicken weighing 3 to 3.5 lb. building complete with colorful interior murals supposedly painted by one of the staffers, El Patron's bar dispenses fruity margaritas in bulbous bulbous /bul·bous/ (bul´bus) 1. bulbar. 2. shaped like, bearing, or arising from a bulb. bulbous having the form or nature of a bulb; bearing or arising from a bulb. glasses at around $7.25 a pop, shots of your favorite anejo tequila at approximately the same price, or bottles of chilled Negra Modelo brew ($4.50) for those who like Mexican beer with their south-of-the-border fare. The kitchen noticeably handles beef and chicken with skill. Fish gets special attention, possibly due to the previous tenant, a seafood house. Marinated steak on a skewer ($11.99) displays good flavor and tender, lean meat. Strips of the same steak are joined with crunchy shrimp and moist chicken pieces in the nicely executed house fajitas fajitas Noun, pl a Mexican dish of soft tortillas wrapped around fried strips of meat or vegetables [Mexican Spanish] plate ($13.25). Tasty versions of chile verde ($9.99) as a separate entree, a dramatic tostada ($7.99) and two-ingredient combinations of spiced-up chile relleno, tacos, enchiladas or tamales ($8.25 or $8.99 each) are also handled well. Although fresh yellowtail ($12.99) has not been available during two visits (evidently, it sells out early), both catfish and red snapper filets ($12.99 each) denote proper cooking techniques and come forth soft and moist. As for endings, they have a decent flan ($2.99) here and fashion a worthwhile fried ice cream Fried ice cream is an Americanized Mexican/Asian dessert. Fried ice cream is commonly found at Mexican food chain restaurants in the United States (e.g. El Torito or Chi-Chi's) and fairs and carnivals. ($3.25) dish to soothe chile-seared palates. The way things look, El Patron should have no trouble attracting plenty of patrons. Larry Lipson, (818) 713-3668 larry.lipson(at)dailynews.com EL PATRON Food: Three stars - Service: Three stars Where: 5545 Reseda Blvd., Tarzana. Phone: (818) 705-2920. Meals/hours: Open for lunch and dinner from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily, to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Lunch specials served from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. daily. Food type: Mexican. Cost: Starters from $3.29 to $7.99, entrees from $8.25 to $15.99, desserts from $2.99 through $3.50. Credit cards: All major. Patio dining: Front patio not in use, but ready for future service. Parking/valet: Free parking in rear lot. No valet. Full bar: Yes. Variety of tequilas and margaritas. Wine/corkage: No written list yet. Currently serving one brand by glass and bottle. Corkage cork·age n. A charge exacted at a restaurant for every bottle of liquor served that was not bought on the premises. corkage Noun a charge made at a restaurant for serving wine bought elsewhere : $8. Music/entertainment:No. Takeout/delivery: Yes on takeout, no on delivery. Reservations: Helpful. CAPTION(S): photo Photo: Salmon is grilled over mesquite and served with rice and sauteed vegetables at El Patron. The Tarzana eatery puts the emphasis on Mexican food, but offers plenty of fresh fish and other options. John Lazar/Staff Photographer |
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