EDIZA IS TO DIE FOR; HIGH SIERRA TREK SIMPLY SPECTACULAR.

Byline: Terry Wood Special to the Daily News

It is situated in one of the most heavily trafficked backcountry regions of the High Sierra, but Ediza Lake and the serene landmarks that dot the 17-1/2 miles taking trekkers to it and back are largely lost on the masses.

``It's one of the more beautiful hikes that we have,'' said Mike Morse, a backcountry ranger who serves in the Mammoth Ranger District. ``It's pretty spectacular, and I would recommend that anyone do it.''

If you regard yourself as an intermediate or advanced backcountry wanderer who doesn't mind a few miles of off-trail hiking, file this trip away in your must-do folder. It's a gem.

Historically, the rugged route in the Ansel Adams Wilderness northwest of the Devils Postpile National Monument is known as the Crossing. It also involves memorable visits to Shadow, Iceberg, Cecile and Minaret lakes.

In a relatively short distance, it takes hikers through some of the most riveting Alpine scenery to be found in the Inyo National Forest. In the route's upper reaches, one will likely encounter climbers heading toward the jagged summits of the daunting Minarets in the Sierra Nevada's Ritter Range. Banner Peak at 12,936 feet and 13,143-foot Mount Ritter serve as its stalwart sentinels.

Well-conditioned hikers can cover the 17-1/2 miles in two days. Indulgent, exploration-minded visitors will want to allot at least three days.

Start at Agnew Meadows pack station (elevation: 8,335 feet). It is found 3 miles below Minaret Summit on the road of the same name that leads visitors northwest from Mammoth Lakes.

Resist the urge to travel up the magnificent High Trail (also the path of the Pacific Crest Trail) and instead set out on the River Trail. In less than 2-1/2 miles, after passing small Olaine Lake (8,040 feet), head west at a trail junction that points toward gorgeous Shadow Lake.

After crossing a well-engineered footbridge, begin a steep, sun-exposed march up a rocky, wearying course. A 700-foot climb will culminate at Shadow Lake's shady east-shore outlet (8,737 feet), where anglers are routinely gathered in search of trout.

Camping is not allowed near Shadow Lake as a means to protect the intensely popular area, so proceed farther west along Shadow Creek - on the short distance of the trek that is the John Muir Trail - where signs indicate campsites.

The next major destination is beautiful Ediza Lake (9,265 feet), less than 2-1/2 miles from Shadow Lake's west end along Shadow Creek and 6-1/2 miles from Agnew Meadows. Because of its fragility, camping and campfires are not allowed along its shores.

As trees become shrubs and the massive Minarets and its acres of exposed granite loom before you, hop across Shadow Creek at Ediza's outlet and stick to the lake's east bank.

As the shore bends toward the Mount Ritter to the west, start heading south and pick your own path. An indistinct footpath exists, but it is fairly obvious that the rocky, sometimes icy 1-1/2-mile route is one that closely parallels the outlet stream tumbling down from 9,774-foot Iceberg Lake, the Crossing's next whistle-stop.

``Once you leave Ediza, there's not a real clear trail,'' Morse said. ``It's not a maintained route that we can send trail crews in to work on, but there are ducks (rocks arranged to flag a route) you can follow. A lot of foot traffic has been through there over the years, so that's beaten in a pretty good trail system.''

``It's pretty hard to get lost,'' he explained. ``You have the Minarets on one side and Iceberg's right in front of you as you go up from Ediza. If you have a topo map, you can pretty much figure where you're going.''

From this stark, beautifully sculpted basin south of Iceberg Lake, scramble up more than 400 feet to reach 10,239-foot Cecile Lake under imposing Clyde Minaret. Expect to find ice floes and snow here even in late summer.

Along Cecile's eastern shore, begin selecting a track down to Minaret Lake (9,793 feet). It is steep and potentially tricky, but slow, deliberate steps should place discerning hikers on Minaret's north shore safely.

This off-piste ``crossing'' from Ediza Lake to Minaret Lake is just about 3-1/4 miles but will likely consume at least a half-day of energy because of all the gawking and gingerly striding involved.

Camping is permitted at Minaret Lake, so spend another night here or walk the easy 7.8 miles to the Devils Postpile campground (7,600 feet). The final 1.9 miles south from 8,150-foot Johnson Lake is once again along the John Muir Trail.

If you reach the campground and adjoining ranger station while the shuttle bus is still running, ride it back to your starting point at Agnew Meadows or up to Minaret Summit, where most visitors leave their cars before tackling the Crossing.

Experienced backpackers recommend making the journey late in the hiking season, in September or October, to avoid lingering snows from the previous winter. And less moisture on the ground means fewer bugs. Dress warmly because the nights are cold, and check on the weather to steer clear of early snowstorms.

If You're Going . . .

Mammoth Lakes, the tony hub of the Eastern Sierra about a six-hour drive north of Los Angeles via highways 14, 395 and 203, is the staging area for backpackers hoofing into Ediza Lake.

The route to the lake's trailhead at Agnew Meadows - by way of Minaret Summit Road - can be driven by personal vehicle or shuttle bus.

Wilderness permits are required for overnight hiking excursions originating from the Eastern Sierra during the backpacker-quota period from the last Friday in June through Sept. 15. They cost $3 per trekker and can be reserved up to six months prior to departure date, meaning they are available starting Monday by calling [phone].

Ediza Lake is found on the Mount Ritter 7.5-minute series topographic map, the Devils Postpile 15-minute series map and Tom Harrison Cartography's ``Trail Map of the Mammoth High Country.''

Road and trail information can be obtained by calling or visiting the Mammoth Ranger Station and Visitor Center in Mammoth Lakes, [phone]. It is open 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily.

- Daily News

CAPTION(S):

2 Photos, Box

PHOTO (1--Color) The view of the Sierra Nevada's Ritter Range and Minarets can be inspiring from the vantage of Ediza Lake, one of several whistle stops on the 17-1/2-mile Crossing.

(2--Color) At an elevation of 8,737 feet, Shadow Lake is one of the most heavily visited spots in the Ansel Adams Wilderness, and for good reason, as evidenced by this photo.

Terry Wood/Special to the Daily News

BOX: If You're Going . . . (see text)