EATING WELL IS THE HOUSE SPECIALTY.

Byline: Larry Lipson Restaurant Critic

You can tell ``the house'' (all lower-case letters) was a residence without the obvious name.

The fact that it's also a restaurant becomes apparent almost as quickly.

Thus, we have another ``house restaurant'' in Hollywood. Others like Off Vine, Cafe des Artistes and the original Patina in the first floor of an apartment building, come to mind.

This one, on Melrose Avenue near Vine, retains its houselike appearance. It even has a squeaky front door.

Cute and comfortable inside, the restored 1900-era, two-story structure features chef-owner Scooter Kanfer presiding in the kitchen and maitre d'-owner Dana Caskey presiding at the greeter's desk.

It's just as cutesy foodwise, with such items as a tiny skillet of smoked trout hash ($8) topped with a fried, sunnyside-up quail egg as a mini-appetizer. Guess the heading ``small plates'' is taken seriously here.

Another minimal starter is the duck ham shortcake ($9). It comes forth looking like a mightily reduced-size open-face sandwich, actually showing off a kid-sized serving of good-tasting duck ham daubed with sour cherry marmalade on a cheddar-flavored sconelike biscuit.

The salads, one with bibb lettuce, vidalia onion, egg, bacon and Maytag bleu cheese dressing ($8), the other with asparagus, red and yellow beets, Peruvian potatoes and a mustard vinaigrette ($9), are more substantial.

The general restraint in portioning, though, continues in some entrees even though they're dubbed ``large plates.''

For the most part, they deliver superb tastes and denote a fine cooking hand.

There seems to be a tendency for dishes to be brought forth rather tepid. This applied to an otherwise very tasty grouper entree ($20) one time, the flaky, moist fish enhanced with marinated beets, horseradish cream and a scattering of new spring potatoes.

At a previous visit, barely warm little ovals of herb-roasted lamb ($24) paired with flageolet beans, pieces of bacon and a mint-flavored yogurt sauce was another semi-triumph.

Calf's liver ($20), though, dressed with a warmish vinegared bacon mixture and delivered with a savory potato-onion cake, is down-home, greatly appreciated American comfort food, served hot and reasonably portioned.

Cote du boeuf ($28) has a French name but sits proudly on the plate as a thick, juicy beef chop surrounded by wild mushrooms, accompanied by a little container of a dark brown liquid titled ``A-OK'' that tastes suspiciously like a barbecue sauce.

I love the wine program here. There are 10 whites and 10 reds all priced at $20 and less (as low as $15) as well as 14 bottles from $23 to $38. And there are other unexpected bonuses.

Kanfer sometimes adds unusual ``wild'' green vegetables to her entree plates. Be prepared for the good and the ugly. Fiddlehead ferns, exotic chards, amaranth and the like may pop up with your main course. Some work. Some don't.

But the former Chinois pastry chef makes a great vanilla pot de creme ($7) with the hidden treasure of an intense chocolate base.

One can almost visualize her humming away in the kitchen a la Rosemary Clooney as she does her thing: ``Come On-a My House, My House-a Come On ...''

THE HOUSE

Where: 5750 Melrose Ave., Hollywood.

When: Open for lunch from 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Tuesday through Sunday, for dinner from 5:30 to 10:30 p.m. Tuesday through Sunday. Closed Monday.

Behind the scenes: Scooter Kanfer is chef/co-owner, Dana Caskey is maitre d'/manager/co-owner, and Richard Occiuto is co-owner.

Recommended items: (Note changing menu.) Salads, liver with warm bacon vinaigrette, cote du boeuf with marinated wild mushrooms, grouper with marinated beets, vanilla bean pot de creme with chocolate surprise.

How much: Starters from $6 to $9, entrees from $16 to $28, desserts $7 each. Beer and wine. Major credit cards.

Wine list: Great idea: 20 wines under $20, though, actually, five of them are $20. Recommended: '99 Cotes du Rhone by d'Andezon for $18 and a '99 Basa white from Spain for $17. Corkage: $10.

Reservations: Needed. Call [phone].

Our rating: Three stars for food; three stars for service; three and one half stars for wine.

CAPTION(S):

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Photo:

At their Hollywood restuarant, the house, co-owners Scooter Kanfer, left, Richard Occiuto and Dana Caskey seek to make dining fun. Before leaving, guests may sample the cookies and milk plate - but don't expect Mom to tuck you in.

David Sprague/Staff Photographer