EATING OUT NOW IS IN AGAIN RESTAURANTS RALLY FOR THE HOLIDAYS.

Byline: Brent Hopkins Staff Writer

Last year's holidays weren't so happy for many in the restaurant business, but this year they're ready to party.

The fourth quarter can be a crucial one for restaurants, as they rely on corporate parties to firm up the bottom line. Last year, business fell off dramatically for many, as companies canceled events in post-Sept. 11 reflection, fearful that celebration would seem inappropriate. But according to a survey of San Fernando Valley banquet sites, the mood has lifted considerably.

At the Saddle Peak Lodge in Calabasas, harried staff members bustle through preparations for the evening. As his crew folds stacks of white napkins and delicately arranges the silverware, managing partner Gerhard Tratter sighs with weary contentment over the added business.

``It's reverting to what it used to be,'' he said. ``We're very solid. We open an extra day to accommodate the flow, and we do lunch parties, too, which we usually don't do. Now there's three Tuesday nights and a couple of Wednesdays left, and that's it.''

Compared with last year, Saddle Peak's business has risen 5.5 percent. From small parties of 10 to the several groups of more than 150 that bought out the restaurant for the entire evening, business is up across the board, Tratter said. With the most popular entree, elk tenderloin served with bacon-wrapped salsifi, arugula, Jerusalem artichokes and wild mushrooms, going for $38 apiece, the modest increase in customers helps tremendously.

Restaurant experts initially fretted that business would not rebound, what with the rocky stock market and generally conservative business climate, said Andy Harris, producer of ``The TV Diner'' for KCAL-TV (Channel 9.)

``We kept waiting for the other shoe to fall, but thank goodness it never did,'' he said. ``People don't feel guilty about celebrating this year.''

While the terrorist attacks discouraged companies from indulging a year ago, this year's spate of gloomy news, from corporate scandals to fears of a war with Iraq, seems to have a reverse effect.

In the Bistro Garden at Coldwater, a Studio City restaurant on Ventura Boulevard, president Carolyn Niklas Pappas said she'd seen customer traffic slow down, only to rebound with the holidays.

``After the year we've had, with economics and war zones everywhere, people want to get away,'' she said. ``People are tired of sitting around moping and being depressed. They're tired of having a bad year; they want to move on.''

In the late `90s, when a thriving economy left companies fat with venture capital, a lavish year-end party was de rigueur. Taps flowed freely at open bars, live bands entertained guests, and money was no obstacle. While none of the restaurants expects a return to that level of largess, fun hasn't been totally ruled out.

``It's not just dinner and go home,'' said Ron Herman, general manager of Universal CityWalk. ``We're tending to see people book dinner, a party and something else - bowling, the ice rink, NASCAR driving. People come here for a festive nature.''

Most spots don't have the benefit of computerized race cars or bowling alleys in their midst, but they still see solid bookings. At Braemar Country Club in Tarzana, business more than doubled with an additional $20,000 in business by early November.

``People aren't going too overboard, but they want to give a nice thank- you,'' said Charis Corell, the club's private events director. ``Smaller businesses are starting to look up again, and they're trying to boost morale for employees. They want to say thanks for helping us through the really tough times.''

CAPTION(S):

4 photos

Photo:

(1 -- 2 -- color) Gerhard Tratter, in photo at left, who manages Saddle Peak Lodge in Calabasas, talks to an employee before the busy night shift starts. Vases of colorful cut flowers are carefully placed on formally laid dining table at Saddle Peak Lodge in Calabasas.

(3 -- 4) Luis Garcia, above, sets tables at Saddle Peak Lodge. Area restaurants report their business has increased this holiday season. At left, server Choli Valdes folds dinner napkins in preparation for a holiday party at the Calabasas restaurant.

Andy Holzman/Staff Photographer