EATING OUT: Expensive tastes; Tam was suitably impressed by the fine food and decor at this newly opened eatery-but not the prices on the menu CAFE AVANTI 13 TOWNHEAD STREET, HAMILTON.

Byline: BY TAM COWAN

Based on the number of restaurants I've reviewed (and, more importantly, enjoyed) I recently named Perth and Ayras two of Scotland's top culinaryhotspots.

But even though I'm a Motherwell man born and bred - which means the rest of this sentence is like a stake through my heart - I think it's only fair to add Hamilton to my list.

Off the top of my head, I've written up quite a few places in the town - Carrigan's, The Manzil, Andiamos, Anya's, Santa Lucia, Peter's Seafood Restaurant, Rodeos - and I'd have no qualms about making a return trip to any of these places.

But now there's a new kid on the block - Cafe Avanti at the bottom cross - and, in a town where you'll never be stuck for something to eat (unlike dear old Motherwell, I'm afraid), I think I've found another good addition to the social scene in Hamilton.

It's located on the spot formerly occupied by Don Jose, a wee Italian joint that seemed to have been on the go for about 200 years.

One major refurb later (a quick inspection of the sparkling toilets and I bet you'll feel ashamed of the ones at home) and Cafe Avanti has risen like a phoenix from the flames.

Talking of flames, I can tell you it boasts Hamilton's only wood burning stonebaked pizza oven which was apparently imported fromModena in Italy - an expensive business which may explain the pricey pizzas.

Three of them on the menu cost a whopping pounds 10.95 and that's far too dear for any sort of pizza - particularly when you remember we're basically talking about a slab of baked bread with a smattering of relatively inexpensive toppings.

At these prices, charging another pounds 1.20 for a dip to accompany your pizza (garlic mayo, BBQ, sweet chilli, etc) is also OTT.

To be honest, though, I'd sooner pay pounds 10.95 for a good pizza than, say, pounds 7.95 for a shabby effort.

And make no mistake, thanks to the aforementioned fancy Italian oven (and a chef who clearly knows what he's doing), my garlic Italian sausage pizza was superb.

In fact, unable to finish it, I can tell you there was almost a fight at the table to see who got to take the rest home.

The pizza was thin and crispy with just the right amount of toppings - a bit like the foccacia my mate Graham ordered for his starter.

Elsewhere at the table, Chick and Peter started with the mozzarella sticks (too uniform in size to be anything other than frozen, but still very tasty) and I really enoyed the Italian sausage and borlotti beans cooked in a red wine, onion, garlic and tomato sauce.

This was served with garlic bread which (wood burning stonebaked oven or not) was only toasted on one side - one of my major pet hates.

Moving onto the main courses, the overpriced pizza, as I say, was exceptional and Peter enjoyed nothing fancier than a filled panini and a bowl of homemade chips from the lunchtime menu.

Both items hit the spot, though, and the chips were particularly good. In fact, I think it's quite unfair to describe them on the menu as French fries.

While the Cafe Avanti menu is largely a pizza/pasta affair, a couple of daily specials (beef, chicken, seafood, etc) are always available and Graham and Chick both opted for the 10oz Thai-style marinated rump steak.

Like the pizza, I reckon this was also overpriced at pounds 16.95 (rump steak is hardly the most expensive cut of beef) but, to be fair, it was also very good.

Having been lovingly marinated for a good 48 hours, the beef was beautifully moist and tender - more succulent than prime fillet, in fact - and there was lots of it.This dish was served with noodles and veg, but both sundry items were overshadowed by the wonderful beef and I just hope the pounds 16.95 price tag doesn't put people off.

Cafe Avanti was very impressive but, by way of constructive criticism, I would definitely urge the boss to consider knocking a couple of quid off some of the dishes.

Also, considering the gaffer is a top man in the building trade, perhaps he could fix the draughty door. Two seconds after it closes, the wind tunnel effect means a cosy wee place suddenly becomes alot less cosy.

Overall, though, very good. And I just wish we could have stayed longer. Unfortunately, though, Chick had an appointment at the dentist to see about his wisdom teeth.

And as anyone in Hamilton who knows the guy won't be surprised to hear, he was getting a couple put in...

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TAM'S HOT PLATE AWARD

CAFE AVANTI

Address: 13 Townhead Street, Hamilton

Tel: [phone]

Open: Seven days 10am to 10pm

Wheelchair access: Yes

Bill for four (with wine): pounds 100

Food: 4/5 - don't miss the pizza

Service: 4/5 - very good

Decor: 4/5 - smart and spotless

Toilets: 5/5 - luxury loos

Value: 3/5 - steep in places

Total: 20/25

23/25Two Fat Ladies At The Buttery, 652 Argyle St, Glasgow. 0141 221 8188.

22/25Urban Bar and Brasserie, 23-25 StVincentPlace, Glasgow.01412485636.

22/25Spice Garden, 11 Clyde Place, Glasgow. Tel: [phone].

22/25Bella Fresca, 2093 Paisley Road West, Glasgow. Tel: [phone].

21/25Arches, 57-59 Kyle Street, Ayr. Tel: [phone].

21/25Chatters, 58 John Street, Dunoon. Tel: [phone].

21/25Pataka, 190 Causewayside, Edinburgh. Tel: [phone].

The current Hot Plate winner is Grill Room, Royal Exchange Square, Glasgow. 0141 225 5610

'Having been lovingly marinated for a good 48 hours the beef was beautifully moist and tender'

CAPTION(S):

COMFORT FOOD: No nonsense grub of the highestorder